Dan1045

Last one today. Dialup sucks. Dan

Another one.

More pics with bad digital camera. Working on getting another one so pics will be better. Dan

Have the speakers finished so far and working. Staining is still in process. Have an 800hz 24 db/octave electronic crossover right now. I can tell the cross is a little high, male voices dont sound just right but very good none the less. Running the jbl 2482 with no other crossover and only a cap on the 2404 tweeter that brings the tweeter in about 4500hz. Letting the 2482 drop off by itself, iirc it starts dropping off at about 12db/octave at about 5k. Sound is great, very detailed and I have unhooked the subwoofer and am happy as they are. Just waiting for my tri-amp crossover to be finished and then will have it tri-amped. Imaging is astounding. Able to tell instrument placment and follow which drum is being hit. Pictures follow since they dont post well in first post. Dan

CD = Constant Directivity Dan

Formica, My speakers are just about done too, except for staining. Will be posting photos soon. Again thanks for your work on these plans Dan

Please tell which model of the behringer microphone you are talking about. I am thinking of doing this. thanks. Dan

I bought a sub amp from parts express before christmas and am quite pleased with it. I did a lot of reading and the steeper cutoff you can have for the sub amp, the better. So I chose the 240 watt one with 24db/octave crossover. It works great with larger speakers and with a pair of small satellites. If you dont need gobs of power, this is a good one and they put it on sale quite often. Usually parts express ships free if the order is over $100 too. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-804 Dan

Bought a hafler dh200 (100w/c), that will be used for the bass in the this application. A rotel 980 (70w/c) for midrange, and a nad amp 30w/c for the tweeter. I used all three testing in a biamp setup using a jbl 2235 woofer in an l200 cabinet and the 2482 driver and 2380 horn. Using the amps with the smaller of the two driving the highs, i liked the hafler on the lows and the rotel on the mids. Nad was good on mid, but the rotel beat it out by just a little. I also used two carver 1.0t amps set to mono (1000w/c) on the jbl l200s and it did not sound near as good as the biamp setup with much less power. The biamp setup would get loud enough to make your ears bleed if you wanted it to, but the detail was much greater than using the passive crossover. Which is why I am a fan of electronic crossover still. My ears tell a lot of difference using passive vs. active crossover. Dan

Ebay is your friend when it comes to buying amps. I bought all three of mine for about 250 bucks total over a couple of years, waiting and buying right. Dan

Yes, it has delay for each band, parametric eq also that can be programmed in. And now it has remote tweaking by computer. Yep, I may get this, got the urge to tweak and this may just fill the urge. Already have the amps, so this is a minimal cost, but getting one that you can setup so many different ways would mean no more buying when I change the setup. Dan

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=248-669&ctab=6#Tabs Behringer is making a digital crossover that you can tweak from 6db crossover to 48db crossover to any frequency. $250. I am close to finishing my belle clones and the only thing I am waiting for now is my electronic crossover to be built. But may order this for the same money if it is not done shortly. Has options for butterworth, bessel, and linkwitz-riley configurations. The reviews were positive, only negative its a pro product and will have to adapt the xlr to 1/4" connectors. Experience, suppositions, what ya'll think? Dan

No, the driver I have is the original dayton titanic, with different specs. fs=16hz. Yes, there is a lot of room gain. Didnt want the new dayton driver that you have the link too. I wanted something that would be good for music too, not just thump for movies. The original dayton titanic 12" was patterned after teh nht1259. Parts express does not even have the info for that woofer online anymore. They started making the original titanic about 1995-1996. If you want to search on the web for it, its name is dayton titannic 1200. here's a projects using that old driver: http://webpages.charter.net/spatters/SpkrProjects/Subwoofer.html nht 1259 project: http://www.lungster.com/l/speakers/sub/sub.shtml Dan PS. I just read up on a lot of different projects. Really liked the idea of a flat response, musical sub. I have not been impressed by retail product, so I studied up for about a month then found the driver for a good price on ebay, ordered the plate amp from parts express, and put it together. Didnt use any software to determine response, knew from other peopls projects that it would turn out good. That is another reason I did a sealed box, it keeps things simple for placement. Is this the driver that you used? http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-404 I get -10dB @ 20Hz so perhaps you're talking about a different driver? Or you've got massive amounts of room gain. Btw, WinISD is free...here's a link for anyone interested: http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisdpro

I just recently built a dayton DIY subwoofer. Box came out to be about 2.75 (18.5" cube) cubic feet. Bought a used Dayton 1200 titanic driver on ebay for cheap, wanted flat response and this driver was known for that. High efficiency (90db/watt)and went down to 16hz and 14.5mm cone travel. Used the Parts express 240 watt plate amp due to the 24db/octave slope. I think this sounds much better and keeps the sub from muddying up the midrange. I do music and movies about 50-50 and have the sub adjusted where its great on music, you have deep bass if there is deep bass, but nothing added if there is none. Just what I wanted. Music barely challenges this setup. But on a movie with a deep bass soundtrack, turn it up and step back, it will nearly knock you down. The cabinet is sealed and I used 3/4 mdf with one brace across the middle of the cabinet. I used elmers polyglue. Screwed and glued. I also countersunk the holes and filled with wood putty. Filled it using an old king size pillow poly fill that I wasgoing to throw away. I think all told, I had 290 bucks in it and a sub retail for at least $1200 would be needed to perform as well I think - at least this is what I think after listening to what the retial market has to offer. Still havent veneered it, but it impresses with performance. I will do that after I have my klipsch belle clones finished. I used a free download program to design the cabinet. Dan

Actually, I considered placing them side by and going for a very stock belle look, however, on further thought, when measured using the setup with a 2 inch riser on bottom of the bass cabinet and a 1 inch riser between the bass and top cabinet, in the chair I sit in the mid range horn hits my ears perfect. Also, I have studied about the comb filter effects of placing them beside each other and decided to go with the placement you see. I had these two horns setup on a jbl l200 cabinet and had to tilt them down for them to work. They sounded wonderful with the tweeter ontop of the squaker so, that too decided me. As stated above with the cabinet being so wide, it i think it will balance more. Dont know at this point if I will even use a grill. I like the "industrial bare bones look." Nevertheless, keep suggestions coming. Dan