InVeNtOr

alright, jeff, you get the system going....falcon you bring the popcorn, i'll bring the candy, we will all send the wives and kids....well anywhere....and we can look and listen to some good movies! lol lol. falcon, i was planning around noonish... jeff, yeah i'll bring the tape measure to get a good feel of things. i think with shrinking the et center and dropping the screen down, it looks it should be a good height. i also took the advice of westcott and put the chair (seating) 2/3 rd into the room. i am just hoping with the sub behind me in it's own little space i can get good sounds out of it. i know i have to put a board, or tile under it because the media room will be all carpet. did i open up a new item i should think about? is carpet good to have in a media room? is there a good or better carpet to use? hard wood floors? i could put some vinyl in there if that would be better. someone let me know. thanks.

here is the views with the dimensions. screen height.pdf

i am going to put the same pic up but i will include dimensions so it will help.

Jeff, hey here you go with the screen height. i looked at some options and shrunk the et center. i just made it .5" all away around instead of 3" on the bottom. i then dropped the screen to have the bottom of the frame to be even with the height of the center channel. i have a drawing here. i turned the chair to "glass" so you can see a straight on view through it. that way it won't obstruct your view of the whole layout.

i don't know if you want to do this or have already passed this point, but there is "quiet roc" sheet rock. there is a few other brands out there. you can google them and come up with different manufactures. all it is, sound "proffing" your room so no one else can hear it. i just chimed in becasue i read you want to put an extra layer of gypsem on the celing. i don't think they help with the accustics of the room, but it does sheild out noise from other rooms, and your room to theirs. nice pics. i am taking the lazy way out. i am buying a David Weekely home and in the bonus room option, i am having them build it for me. []

the room is a bonus room and it's the only space upstairs. i don't have anything except brick and roof surrounding it. i can't do the parallel wall becasue i do have some control of how the room will be construsted but i can't change 3 of the walls. i could angle one of the walls but then it would look funny. as for the sub, i put it in the back where the slope on that wall is greater this way it may have a good booming effect. i really dont' know yet but for now it's the place i would like to place it.

jeff, i was thinking around the noonish time. yeah i was looking at the screen. it does seem a little high. i do have room to shrink the et center and drop the screen down a bit. i think all in all i have around 5". i will check with it tonight. if i could i would like to leave around an inch between the center and the bottom of the frame.

no sillies. i don't have accurate dimensions to place what i am going to have. i am going to get (most likely berkline) the triple curved recliners. i don't know what i am going to do about acoustics. from what i understand i have to set the room up first and then do that. i will hopefully be able to bribe someone to help me out.

well i went back to star power today, and it was total different experience. i had a good time and was actually paid attention to. the sales man, Jack Woodcock, really helped me out, he even offered my wife a soda. the other guy didn't. just some of the small things you notice when your about to spend $30,000. he did tell my about the gray screens. sounds like they are a better screen to have. they don't cost that much more, does anyone have one or had the white one and then upgraded to the gray?

the pdf is actually Inventor 10. i also used autocad 04 to do the 2d views and angle lines. inventor does those lines also but the autocad was more of a look that i wanted. everything was drawin in inventor then i would transfer a top view of the room to autocad. from there i would check the angles and dimensions.

i am going to star power today and measure some stuff out. i am just worried on the position of me to the screen.

i don't know the name but i got them at frys. they are just basic steel brackets. the problem is imagine that you have 2 L angles of steel with a pivit in the middle. one L angle is actually angled so the speaker will face down a bit. if you put this set up on an already angled wall, the speaker will almost face down. (i know this because i drew it up and looked at the picture. it may work but it looks funny. maybe i'll just put the bracket up higher. i won't make that decision until the room is built. if you look at the drawings you will see the bracket.

here is the updated room. all the dimensions should be accurate. the verbal description is 3 of the walls will have the same slope and the aft wall with have a greater slope than the other 3. the celing is 9'. westcott, i was able to look at the dimentions and put the chair 2/3 into the room. that ment the screen had a viewing angle of 39 point something degrees (just under 40). i also move the front speakers out more and if you look at the screen dead on the speakers are just even with the screen so they don't block any view. all the angled dimensions for the speakers are from dolby digital. it looks like i may have a speaker bracket problem on the aft wall. the brackets i have now, put the speakers at an downward angle. if you use the brackets on the aft wall, the speakers are almost pointing straight down. i need to look into a hanging bracket, i just don't want to have the rear speakers too far into the room. since i am using the 1.1's they are front firing as far as the ports go. i sholdn't have a problem with that. again once i get everything into the room i would have to play with the position. this way i know from the start that the room works with the present dimensions. forgot to mention. orginally i thought the lh side of the room had a straight wall, well it has the same slope as the front. the new wall that is going to be built (rh wall), i am going to have them match the slope on the front and lh wall. this way the room is even. also i got a price for the sub cable from cable solutions, it will cost less than $100, so i am going to place the sub behind me. multi views.pdf

well i just got the worse news possible. i will have to competely redraw everything. there is a slope i didn't know about. i am going to match it on the other wall so it not all that bad. the aft was has a big slope, i think i have a way to deal with it, it will just be up to the builder. i am going to draw it up tonight. one thing that has to change is the speaker brackets. i am going to need hanging brackets that can pivit (change angles) if anyone knows of a really good one (needs to support at least 6lbs) let me know. i am going to google them sometime later.

how did you not know it was full metal jacket! man i should have responed earlier. how many people only watch the first half of full metal jacket? for me once the boot camp is over, i'll just turn it off. fyi, R. Lee Ermy (the drill insturctor) got that job becasue he was the "tech" rep and he was trying to teach the actor(s) how to be a D.I. since a couple of actors could be as good as Ermy, he got the job.

i called cable solutions, it will cost me less than $100 for a 60' cable including shipping. i think it will be behind me! i'll let you know how it feels!

westcott, the speaker placement for the fronts can be moved fwd. i have lots of room to play with them. it does seem like a good idea to put the et further into the wall. i can deffently make the et and center flush with the wall.

Here is the 3D views of the room. it's not finished but it can give someone a good idea of what i have, and how it would look. 1 the walls are set to "glass" so you can see through them. 2 the aft (rear) wall is missing because there is some missing dimensions to the front, aft, and ceiling. so until i get them i can't completely draw the room. 3 all the speakers in the drawing are in my Sig. 4 the et center actually reassess into the fwd wall. this way i can get to the connection from the attic, and i don't have to leave room to get behind it if there is a problem. 5 the speakers are angled the way Dolby digital suggests, that doesn't mean they will stay that way. 6 i will have a 7.1 ht, the drawing is of 5.1 because of the aft wall missing i can't acutely draw in the 2 rear speakers. 7 the sub placement is a work in progress. right now it is in the front for cable cost reasons, and ease of placement. 8 if you look carefully behind the 2 front speakers and center, there will be 1/2 hole the speaker wires will go through and then route to the back of the et. 9 the et center will hold an outlaw 990, outlaw 7700, DVD, Sony, cable box, and i have room for extras. the dimensions of the outlaw "boxes" are true in dimensions. 10 the center will sit just how it is drawn, east, neat, adjustable (a little) and will hold any center if i ever upgrade. 11 the screen is 100" (diagonal) 12 the chair will be 3' from the aft wall. it can go fwd by 18" or so, and maybe a few feet back. it will depend on the aft wall and the dimensions i am missing. also the chairs i plan on having are the 3 angles ones. i don't have accurate dimensions to draw a true scale model, for now. i will add it in once i get those dimensions. 13 if you read this far, thank you for your time and if you have suggestions, i will appreciate them. it's real easy to change a drawing, but not once the room is built. thanks to everyone. i hope someone thinks the room looks good.

i got it. thanks. i look forward to it. it's really nice that you would allow strangers into your home.

i am asking almost the same question. i beleive it is going to come down to put it where ever you want and listen to it. if it sounds good to you, leave it. if not, try moving it around. i guess that is what i am going to have to do.

i was afraid of that answer. no i will have a 3d pic of the room up in a little while. it's all open. the sub can go beside the et center but you will see the et center is very small. so there is really no real way to tell where it should go. i gave an estimate of $300 because the cable is $35 for 6' and i would need almost 60.' i would only get that cable from cable solutions or blue jeans. they both sell great stuff. i won't buy anthing but canare cables anyway. i guess i just might have to get a real price quote from one of the companys and see how much it is worth to have it behind me.

well i have thrown out the other drawing and redrew everything in 3d. i even drew the brackets so i know exackly how it would look. looks good on paper. what i decided was the speakers, 9 years ago cost me good money (in 97 i paid $937 for all the speakers 2ea 10.5, 1ea c-5, 4ea 1.1, and ksw-12) i bought them in germany and there was no tax! anyways.... i decided the speakers are so nice, why hide them. from what i am hearing it makes them sound worse, costs more to build these walls, and it is an accustic nighmare. so they are out and free! once i get a few more dimentions i will post the 3d drawing, if anyone really cases about looking at drawings. thanks for everyones input, it help change my mind for the better. btw i am also going with the 100" projector screen and not the 70" sony (besides i read the post why sony sucks and then decided it might be a bad idea). david

thanks for the reply, i am going to keep the set up for now. once i get the room built and the new electronics it should be just fine. i will keep everyone posted and even send actual pics, not drawings.....lol

i just got the message. i sent him a pm.

i have the ksw-12 sub. i am building a media room and i would like some input on the placement of the sub. VISUALLY i would like to place the sub behind the chairs so i don't SEE it. the only down fall to that is buying the 60' sub cable (around $300). do you get a better feel of the sub if it is placed front center, front right (or left), or behind you? i would think behind you it would FEEL better (maybe just louder). this is something i don't want to have to do twice, because i would have to buy the cable and then run it. input would be appreciated, thanks again