InVeNtOr

Youth, those GLS are also supposed to be pretty good. they have the BFA style as well. for me i just never liked the locking. maybe it was because the RCA's i had all were real close to each other on the UMC and it was a real pain to install and remove.

BFA banana plugs this is supposed to be a good cheap copy brand. with banana plugs, some like the locking, i don't. i had some RCA locking plugs, i don't use them anymore. sad, they cost a little bit of coin. i would suggest BFA style because they will have a tighter fit. the style like the MP, just sucks, cheap or expensive version.

furutech banana plugs (they cost more, but again, 1 of them held my amp! has to be worth some kind of credit)

yeah, having Copper plated would suck bad! Banana plugs.... these are not too bad. some of the China ones are actually pretty good. it comes down to the finish process but i doubt any HT set up can improve/degrade with a quality china one vs. expensive one. me personally, after $10 each....that's my limit. i only needed 6 (12 total, both ends), so i upped the budget. when i have a bi-wire set up and 7 speakers, it was monoprice all the way! lol!

it's a long answer but basically, for speaker sound performance, Tin will mimic more of a "silver" sound, just not as smooth. silver tends to be more bright and the lower the quality it starts to be harsh. as far as general purpose, i like the Tin. in fact all my rear speakers are teflon coat, tin plated because they are in the wall. copper will corrode over time which will ruin that nice warm neutral sound. surrounds you generally want bright or sharp for the effects, so the Tin plating doesn't effect it. since i have 7's, and i did the mod, i try to keep as much silver, rhodium, or tin out of the connections.

i agree about the Banana plugs. i used them for a while and the only way i got them to work great... i used two pairs of pliers and really cinched them down, then for the top, i carefully tighten them. lastly, i took one of my pics or jewelers screwdriver and bent the 4 prongs out more. they did make better contact. i eventually bought some Furutech plugs on closeout from Sonic Craft. those are amazing. in my Garage sale ad, i show a pic of one of them bent because they held up my LPA-1 amp when the shelf fell! i can't believe 1 plug held that amp up! i'm sticking with those suckers!

this is more my speed at Knukoncep's. not a big fan of tin plated wire.

the internet is going to explode....this is a horrible question on this specific forum....lol.... can't wait to see what happens.... for what it's worth....here are a few suggestions..... Monoprice 14awg Star VH Audio Star (u have to scroll down) -not the best choice for speaker cables, but will work well - Canare 4S11 Star AntiCables Monoprice 12awg here's how this works....if you have a high end 2ch music only system, you generally invest in different cables and wire. sometimes it gets "ridiculous" in OTHER peoples opinion, but it's your hobby, buy what makes you happy. if you have a 100% HT, then you can skimp on cables and wire and it won't effect the final product that much. bottom line is, if you can hear a difference, then it's something you may want to think about. i personally won't spend that much, investing in better speakers / gear is always going to net better/ more results. you didn't give any information on what kind of system you have or what you like to use it for.... keep in mind, high end wire will never make an "OK" system great, at most, cables just add a touch of color to suit your personal tastes. after all that, for a general suggestion for mainly used HT system, i would suggest the Canare 4S11, monoprice Star, than monoprice 12awg. the reason i suggest a Star speaker cable over a standard twisted is for EMI protection. most people here just lay the wires/cables in and there can be a chance of interference. all 3 of those choices are 3N copper purity (Anticables is 5N/6N) which is about standard. if you just need to hook some speakers us, go with the monoprice 12awg because you won't find a better cheaper wire. as a general note, always stick with some kind of twisted wire over flat for the same EMI reasons. the Star is just better at EMI. price per ft: 4S11: $1.16 MP 14awg star: $0.41 MP 12awg: $0.32 anticables: $6 VH audio: $9.49 you didn't ask, but Monoprice has descent banana plugs

so who among the group is the go-to Cornscala guru? i need a little help. i've always wanted to build a custom set with custom dimensions. i have a professional CAD program (i have a degree in it, but all i've used it for is drawing speakers!) and have designed a set. i'd like to send over a rendering or detailed drawing and see if any error pop up. i would greatly take suggestions for parts. a while back i had the woofers picked out, Bob Crites i think, and i believe GotHover had a wooden horn that was said to be the best.... but there has been many moons since then, so i honestly don't know what the best route is. there is also the question of...are Cornscalas still a good choice? i'm a movies only guy and will most likely stick with a 2.1 set up.

^^^so glad i wasn't the only one^^^ lmao!!!

um....sure.... sending PM

AGREE^^^

This would yield the best results. Can you find an amp locally? agree ^^^^^ i have a LPA-1 that i bought first and used it to power my RF-7's and RC-7. i preferred the XPA-3 after the upgrade. the LPA-1 then powered the 4 surrounds. side note, a LPA-1 powering 3 speakers has more Watts per channel than a XPA-3. (still prefer the XPA-3....lol....) did i say i preferred the XPA-3?

is anyone possibly interested in a Emotiva LPA-1 amp? 7ch 125 x 5 & 50 w x 2. i used it for a short time to bi-amp my mains/center and then to power the mains/center....then to just power the Surrounds. i also have 4ea RS-42s, they all have had crossover upgrades. nothing to crazy, just caps, resistors, and binding posts. i used Sonic Craft caps and mills resistors. the binding posts are Rhodium. FYI i used those items because i wanted a very sharp, detailed, clear surround. i have the box for the amp and 1 pair of RS-42s. the other pair i do not have a box. everything is in great/ good condition. i even have some nice African Mahogany hard wood speaker stands which are 36" tall. i know this forum you guys are picture crazy, i can post some, but i just wanted to see if anyone was even remotely interested first. i also don't know fair market value, normally the value is based on what people are willing to spend so it's really up to the interested parties. i don't need to sell these items, but they have been sitting boxed up since 2011. ask away.....

no worries....it's all good!

i think that would be a good first course of action changing the switch. when i had my house built i paid the electrician (on the side) to run a 12awg romex dedicated 20a circuit to my living room. i don't think i got any sonic benefits, but i did have the piece of mind i didn't have my refrigerator on that circuit! lol! i know of a few select people on here had power cable/amp issues where the amp had an active ground pin, and the cable was a stock cable that was a true 3 pin. so even though the amp didn't need a connected ground, since the cable had one, it created an issue. all they did to fix it, switch it out with a custom with no connected ground. they still had a shield to ground pin, just not connected from the amp to the wall. maybe the switch box ground is feeding back into the system, it's really hard to tell. you isolating all the cables/ speakers should quickly lead you to the main issue. like i said earlier, i have way too many cables to even know what to do with. i can ship you out any/ all of them and see if some of them that are 100% shielded or different ground pin set ups help/hurt the issue.

i honestly thought i was the ONLY one on here that liked power cords, interconnects, connectors, and wall outlets! nice! at least i'm not the only guy now!

dude....man....i like it!

http://www.canare.com/ProductItemDisplay.aspx?productItemID=65 http://www.performanceaudio.com/item/canare-4s11-star-quad-speaker-cable-4-x-14-gauge-/535/ http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=4039 if you want to save a just a few dollars, here are two another star quads. i am going to be using the cardas cable because i am broke. i can not afford the cost of a new Furutech star quad at this time. i found the Cardas for $1.16 ft/ free ship. the cardas is a 3N purity and the Furutech is a 5N. Monoprice is a 3N as well....or 99.95%. so either one will diffidently produce sound, one just may sound better. the monoprice is less than half the cost of the cardas, but i like the jacket and how tightly the cardas are twisted as compared to monoprice. again, would i be able to tell the difference in a blind test....odds are i wouldn't. it will however make the voices in my head quiet.....lol.

yes. it's set up for just 1 speaker. i know a "low hum" has been discussed on this forum to death....what some of the issues have been.....power cable with a ground, rheostat switches (like yours) in the circuit, and home wiring ground issues. those have been the main reasons that i remember. in your case, i would switch out that switch with a standard one and see if that's it. that would be a super quick easy check. the reason i went with a star quad is i wanted a shielded speaker cable but i didn't want to have an shielded cable. i'm a fan of Anti-Cables and just having a pure twisted wire (in my personal set up) sounded the best. yes with these Furutech i have the added jacket, but my only other option was to buy VH Audio's star quad at $9.49 ft. i'm sure it would have "sounded" better, but i'm way too cheap to have a small gain at that price! i tried a DIY star cable and it simply wasn't going to work. i ended up using it in my Furman 20PFI power cord. i then later switched that out for a braided power cable to match all the other braided power cables i made. if you are interested in these, i can also ship you a few different power cables to test out. maybe one of them will work better or sound better, or simply be better. when you done, just ship them back. if you can give me a dimension of the minimum length you need and your preference in how you like your set up, as in "bright", "Warm", "neutral", i'll see if i have a power cord that matches that. i have quite a few to choose from....

ah, yeah then, sounds like a perfect miss match! lol!

curious, what were you planning on using it for?

it's not bad. traffic/people are less. i just traveled back to move a bunch of stuff from the house there, and i simply forgot how many people are there! even driving around OKC it's not that bad. my new home is death to HT, it's going to be just a 3.1 from now on. i do like it here, but i would wish some of these OKC people would simply stop "hating TX". it gets old. it goes beyond sports, and really seems childish. not everyone is like that, but i have ran into my fair share. i miss a few resturants...lol (of course a fat man would say that!)

long day.... 1ea @ 30 x 14 1ea @ 46.5 x 15 (there is a huge chunk about in the middle on the edge) 8ea @46.5 x 20 8ea 49 x 20 of course i rounded down slightly. if you are super serious and you give me the dimensions of what ever you want to use this on, i can check and see if there are enough pieces with the machine laqure on it. that way, once you are all done, you won't have to apply that first dreaded coat. i guess i should tell everyone that...the reason why some of these sheets are shiny and others are not, is because the first coat of polyurthane is done by a machine so it's perfectly applied and uniform. so there are no waves. my bad everyone, i just didn't think about it.

ok. when i get home i'll put a tape measure on them. the quantity is easy....18 total sheets. 1 of those sheets is much smaller (again for the front of a RC-7). the dimensions are all about the same, within a inch or so. basically each sheet overlaps the side of the RF-7 by at least 2".