longdrive03

Good luck bill. Here's a photo of the tv stand I'm building for my friend using this method. Solid cherry legs and trim and bubinga pommelle veneer on top and ends.

Hi Bill. I would suggest taking off the vinyl cherry down to the mdf. I use the following technique. Paint plain wood glue ( I uses Titebond II) on the cabinet and the back of your veneer. Let it dry. Apply another coat. I would use a fine foam roller. After both coats are dry (about 30 minutes to an hour per coat) you then position the veneer in place and use a clothes iron on the high setting (no steam) and iron the veneer on. The heat activiates the dry glue on the veneer and cabinet and locks it down tight. You can roll with a rolling pin. Be sure to use a paper grocery sack between the iron and veneer to avoid burning the veneer. I just used this technique on a TV cabinet using bubinga pommelle veneer and solid cherry legs and trim. It works with paper back or wood back veneer. As you roll over it with a rolling pin listen for any crackling sounds and if you hear them simply iron over those areas again. You can keep the dried panels for a month or more before use with no problems. The main difference between this method and contac cement is that you can position the veneer easier with this method. Once contact cement makes contact it's there and hard to move. I then trim using a flush bit, same and move on to the next panel. Works great and doesn't smell as bad as the contact cement. I just got a ton of veneers (nearly 4ft x 8ft sheets of cherry) so I'm stocking up on the Titebond II. Hope this helps

Hi Dan. I've got some of the K-1057-S 6.5" woofers. I think I've got four or more. I've also got the K-1057-KV's (which are shielded). They are new old stock and sound great. I'll email you. Ken

Thanks big Mike and others for the info.

What does the "B" stand for in the K-1057-KB woofer? I know the "V" stands for video and indicates shielding. Thanks.

Finished. Now what to do with it?

Hi. What model sub is it? Does it have a volume control and if so what is the setting. How is it connected to your sub - what input? Is the receiver new as well? If so you may need to adjust settings on it for the sub so look in your owner's manual. Are you playing something with low bass content? The sub won't woof unless you have some bass in the music. Is there a variable crossover on the sub amp? If so turn it to the high setting (probably around 120 Hz) and see if that makes any difference. You may also have a "line in" input on the amp (female RCA input). Trying plugging the input cable to it? Look at your Klipsch owner's manual as well. Please describe how any of this works out and someone smarter than me can probably help.

Yes, and please note my sparkling clean workshop! Everything in its place - well in a place. There could be a few bodies under some of this stuff and I wouldn't know it.

I had an empty cc and decided to bring it to life. Stripped off vinyl wrap, glued on 3/4" solid imbuia wood on top and ends, will spray paint front, back, and bottom, build new grill frame, will spray lacquer and use 6.5" cerametallic woofers time 2 and tweeter horn. Photo shows paint thinner wiped on to show grain. Sucker is heavy without the speakers.

How bout this? Revc 3.4 ohms, qt .217, qe .245, fs 24.01, vas 9.3232cf, spl 93.62, xmax 4mm, bl 11.80 TM, levc 1mh

Here's what I have on the K-23-K from a forum posting on 2/27/07(see below) which had the K-22-25, K33 and K41 T/S numbers. http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/storage/3/855710/k-drivers%20speaker%20date%20k-2 Revc 3.4ohms , qms 1.90, qes .256, qts .226, fs 21.99hz, vas 9.7116, spl 92.47db

Hi Tony. I have four of them now but a friend is going to buy a couple to go with the two he's already bought. I'm helping him with a "Super Heresy" which I've posted on in this forum. Double 12" woofers, horn mid, K-79-K tweeter. I have two left and you're welcom to them if Daddy Dee and you don't need them for your project. You can email me to discuss. Thanks.

Hi Dee. We've emailed before and you bought some stuff from me. I'm in LR also and have some stuff laying around that you could probably use. Do you have the drivers for your project yet??? I've got some 12" KP-22-E woofers, a used K52Ti driver, and an unnumbered 12" very efficient woofer that might help. I could help with the cabinets as well. I'll email you.

I'll check my papers tomorrow at work. I think the 1076 is too deep for that cabinet.

I just sold a bunch of K-1016-SV 5.25" woofers used in this model on ebay for $15.00 each NOS. Sorry but I'm out. Makes a good little center channel. Don't know if the K-1076-K 5.25" I've got would work as a replacement. Can't recall if it's an 8 ohm like the 1016. If so you might give it a try.

Looks like the crossover in this link. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=230218174691&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=013 Does your individual terminal bolt into the cup? I've got a photo and I'll try to post.

Okay now, get off the fence! Don't hold back!! What are your real opinions???? Thanks. I'll stay away from them.

Do you have a photo? Is it a banana plug? I've got some individual banana plug stems I'll send you free.

Anyone have any experience with the NDX-6740 compression driver? 250-6000Hz claimed at 118 db. with large magnet. DJK do you have any info since you're a great source of knowledge?!!!

I built a pair of these monsters. Well actually a buddy of mine cut out the cabinets and I assembled them. Imagine my surprise when I went to his shop and he DIDN'T HAVE A TABLE SAW!!!! He used a hand held Skil circular saw. Real easy to cut 13 degree angles with that. Somehow he got close and I assembled them using a hammer, screwdriver and LOTS of clear silicone. (I was in college at the time). The second pair of speakers I built. First ones were BOSE (okay I'm sorry I said it) clones using 8" Quam orange surround full ranges. I must have done okay cause they sounded awesome. I used 1/2" plywood and a 3/4" plywood front on top of the 1/2" plywood. My roomates in our house loved them and they were great at Halloween. I ultimately stripped out the speakers and sold them and the cabinets. I recall the woofer was 8 ohm impedance and Klipsch was using 4 ohm. It had an Lpad for the mid and tweeter with the T-35 tweeter. Mid horn was cast aluminum and nice. Oh those were the days!

Check this out. Looks like a Bob Crites tweeter driver with a brass plate and no flare. http://cgi.ebay.com/klipsch-Heresy-La-scala-tweeter-replacement-tweeters_W0QQitemZ290197001769QQihZ019QQcategoryZ14993QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Good point. I thought about that after I posted. Replace both and you start even. I believe it is the 127103 part number but I'd have to look to see. I've got several of them. Let me know if I can help.

If your horn is dead you only have to replace the horn diaphragm. You can check with Klipsch parts or I've got the replacement diaphragm I can sell you for $15.00 plus shipping.

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/98831.aspx

If the horn diaphragm is blown it can be replaced. I think this horn uses the neodymium motor assembly. The assembly or diaphragm can be replaced. No need for a new horn. I would check to see if you possibly pulled one of the wires off the tweeter when you replaced your mid. Vibrating mid could be no secured to mounting plate tightly? I've got some of the K-1057's if you need help. Maybe the motor assembly and driver.