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Posts posted by TNRabbit

  1. I admit than I am a gear head. I am always trying something new or old in my system. I like vintage gear and required tweaking it requires.

    What is your dream 2 channel system? Include equipment have you have heard or wish you could try. Biuld a virtual system with any price under $100,000. Extra points for high quality lower cost systems. The catagories are preamp, amp, analog source, digital source, speakers, cables, and power supply.

    Preamp: Sunfire Tube Control Amplifier ($1500 used)

    (added) I/Cs: White Zombie Zero Point Zero (XLR) (@ $500)

    Amp: Sunfire 600x2 Signature (x2) ($1800 each used)

    Analog Source: None

    Digital Source: Oppo 983H Multidisk Player w/ DAC-1 ($400 + $1200)

    Speakers: Carver Amazing Loudspeakers (Platinum Edition) ($2000 used)

    JL Audio Gotham Subwoofer ($11,000 retail)

    Cables: MIT Statement ($600 used)

    Power Supply: ZeroSurge 2R20W (x2) ($200 retail each)

    Total Cost: @ $21,200.00

  2. It sounds like you got screwed. I'd go back to this guy; voice coils
    rubbing is usually caused by overexcursion or some type of physical
    damage to the cone itself, neither of which would happen if they were
    "in the original boxes never used"....

  3. My only success story with UPS was I let THEM do their lame-@$$ packing job on a Sunfire amp, which consisted of bubble wrapping the amp & putting it in a single box. WHEN it was damaged, it was due to a fork lift being run through the side of the amp (still worked!!). They paid to ship the amp to Sunfire, all the repairs, and return shipping to the buyer! They couldn't say it was insufficient packaging because THEY DID IT, even though it was OBVIOUSLY lame as hell....

  4. That is an OUTSTANDING price for the 400~7 amp! The cheapest I've seen one go for is around double that or more. I've had mine bi-amping a pair of Carver Amazing III speakers for over a year now....I think it's the best amplifier value on the planet! Sounds as good as or better than amps 5 times it's price. I have a Sunfire Ultimate Receiver powering an RF-83 surround system and it's more than enough power to rock the house apart.

  5. Hrm- well if you have control in the play room - get some good rears and a 5.1 amp, and let those subs do what they were meant to! :)

    Check my sig; I've got all that.

    These are specifically for my 2-channel rig.

    I picked them up today; LORD they are heavy. I was able to get them both in my Ford Probe in 5 minutes with no issues! Wish I had a pic of THAT...[au]

  6. Perfect for the human hearing,a sealed sub done right has one major issue less to deal with PORT. Ports and PR's add non linearities to the table,a sealed is more predictible.The air spring distortion a non issue for a properly optimised sub not pushed where it should not be.

    Who has perfect human hearing? I surely do not as you surely do not, I had my ears checked a year ago and I pretty much can hear 24 hertz to 21000 hertz with big + - factors.

    Awell made port or pr should be pretty linear until it is out of tuning point, then it drops rather fast but a well made subwoofer with port or pr factors that in alredy and should have some sort of high pass limiter. Also I know you will bring up the mention that well a sealed subwoofer can go deeper at some ridiculous hertz like 1-15 hertz but then again who can hear that when its about oh -30 db from the rest of the subwoofer? I cannot even hear 15 hertz, and I am pretty sure you cannot either unless its like 140 db.

    The lack of efficiency is a non issue for those with proper funds, hear that a NON ISSUE. You use multiple drivers backed by proper amplification and signal shaping devices to get extreme ULF. ULF you CANNOT with a ported design as size will get out of hand.

    Proper funds? Call it a waste of money when you need to call an electrician to put in a 30 amp circuit breaker. Okay, I put 10000 watts into a subwoofer that is sealed because I want to beat a ported subwoofer that only needs 2000 watts to do the same thing, yeah. great. really. I bet you have more cubic inches of enclosure than the room itself. ULF sure you can port it using a LLT design.

    A concrete cabinet is not practical due to weight mostly, with a high quality birch of the right thickness and braced where needed you can achieve a very inert cabinet. No sonic signature will be heard,caused by cabinet vibrations. Measured yes,audible not. Not all that can be measured can be heard.Wasting time to fight the inauible is pure foolishness. Wink

    Not practical? For Mr. Adequate Funds, why the hell not? Lets face the facts, if you want to make an ultimate subwoofer enclosure its not wood. Wood flexes, hell mdf is better for speakers as it has less microscopic voids in the wood than even the best baltic birch ply.

    Also you about pretty much flip flopped both ways in your arguement, saying you want the best subwoofer possible even you admit to saying that "Wasting time to fight the inauible is pure foolishnees." How about this, I bet you cannot tell the difference in a blind test between a sealed subwoofer and a proper ported subwoofer.

    So the ear, go make a concrete spherical subwoofer that uses "1 gauge" wiring and 20000 gigawatts of power then I might say you have the best subwoofer.

    Wow; who p!$$ed in YOUR wheaties?!?


  7. Im using an onkyo tsxr 805 with rf83 front channel, rc 3II center and rs-35 rears. the sub is an rsw10 not an rsw10d. Also how can i set up two subwoofers properly? i also have an rw12d i have one main sub cable exiting my onkyo reciever to a y plug which is currently pluged into the rsw10. How can i set this up properly to have both subwoofers ?

    Does your Onkyo have more than one sub output? I'd run two RCA cables to each sub.

    Never mind; I pulled up your manual from this page: http://www.us.onkyo.com/download/own_manuals.cfm?cat=Receiver

    and see you only have one sub input. Looks like you might have to go with a Y-splitter.
  8. Does running the tube through the center as in this diagram do something I'm not aware of? I mean, aren't you basically reducing the effective diameter of that huge port by doing so?? Please explain to a layman why this design is better than a smaller, open port?

    Port Diagram

  9. I've noticed lately one of the horns on my RF-83s has become more "pronounced" (i.e., harsh)...could I have a crossover issue or is the horn going south? I've driven them with a Sunfire Ultimate Receiver (200 wpc) since day one, sometimes to "performance" levels, but I've been careful to never drive to clipping or past the comfort zone. I'd appreciate any helpful opinions from those in the know.

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