masterxela

i don't know, but with all this time and money, itd be cool if he experimented with some of the more exotic designs instead of building 5 more $500 subs with 2 12's, or 3 15's ... whats going to change? id sell em all and embark on some huge crazy transmission line, or mount a couple on the roof and mess with animals

7 speeding, 1 stop sign, 2 mip bowling was just the word that came to mind, not too much anymore. after i bowled a 267 with ten strikes in one game, i decided id never beat it and therefore lost the fun/incentive in the game duckpins? by the way, who makes a big sexy sturdy stand i can put my new rb-75's on

i did a little bit of math, and in complete total, i have made under $6000 working in my entire life. money spent on my 10 tickets: 2500 money spent on audio: 3500 (current system is about $2700, msrp: 5000) money spent on cars: a lot food, bowling, being alive: a lot parents and poker must substitute for the algebraic anomally here

thanks for the replies. didn't think of doing the a/b, it won't have the dean upgrade, but i can do a new rc-64 and a normal rc-7 easily. if they were the same price, id go 64 without even hearing it, just because ive heard an rc-7. not the best, or my own environment for sure, but mid bass was a little boomy, like most other "smallish" ported speakers sound to me.

seems that the "normal" running price for used rc-7's is around 400 and the dean upgrade is 190=$590 new rc-64 is $750. $160 isn't enough to deter me from either, I want the one that I'll be happy with in 5 years, and not wondering if the other would have sounded better any thoughts? (mains are dean g'd rf-7's) thanks

im on the cherries.....

don't get too cozy on your 6" tall throne of having a better sub than me for long... the paycheck's (and poker winnings) are rollin' in

that's what I needed to hear, thanks

Well, my diy sealed 12" sub has done wonders in my dorm room, but just can't keep up with the 4 10's up front........ Instead of taking a massive loss trying to sell it, the trunk seems like a perfect place for it. This is the amp in it: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-750 What kind of power inverter can I use? I found a cheapo one ($35), rated at 400w continuous that looked great, but didn't output a pure sine wave. Am I going to need to fork up $280 to get one that does? For that amount, I'd just buy a car audio amp Thanks http://www.dcacpowerinverters.com/12_volt_power_inverters.html http://www.dcacpowerinverters.com/pure_sine_power_inverters.html

I bought an avr-1906 refurbished for about $250. Running Rf-7's, I've had it doing well over 110db at 9 feet. Never had it clip. Now this is not running 5 or 7 speakers at the same time, just 2 channel, I don't know how the power supply would handle pushing difficult loads on more than 2.... As far as I could tell, didn't really look like moving up the chain did a lot sonically, just bells and whistles I didn't need or want.

Hey, those skills are the reason I got the rf-7's... And, old guys are about as easy to read at a poker table as they are prone to defend any phrase containing the words "tube" or "heritage"... I can't wait till the point in my life that I can seriously audition quality gear in my own house, and see what all the fuss is about. Fact of the matter is, because I've never heard a system "better" than mine, I am 100% satisfied, and for all I know, its not possible for music to sound better to my ears. Only exception to the "better" statement was maybe your cornscala's; my, was that a completely new sound to me. I'm sure over more than a 5 minute period, I'd grow to love that sound, but coming straight out of 5 hours on the car speakers, that midrange was FORWARD. Can't say I've ever heard midrange detail even compare though.. well, physics final in 10 hours This won the my little shootout: http://www.apcc.com/products/family/index.cfm?id=307

having no money sucks, but I think I'm just gonna wait it out and get an mps-1... should go to the casino and speed up the process with my mad gambling skills

those crown xls 202's, at $225 new look nice......... and this tripplite job at $126.... http://www.tripplite.com/products/product.cfm?productID=3498

I'm looking to buy something or another to protect my equipment from electrical surges, and while I'm at it, if the box also somehow makes my speakers sound better, I'll take it. What should I be looking at? I don't want to spend more than $200. Hell, I don't want to spend more than $100.... I'm also in the market for a stereo amp, (gonna keep using the denon as a pre/pro), and was wondering what you guys thought of the very inexpensive offerings in the used department right now. Adcom gfa 545/555's are especially abundant and in the sub $300 range in good shape. How would these compare to the denon and to, say, the $500 amps in the used market. thanks

Does it "not work" worse than port issues on a 6 foot sonotube? I realize I'll lose some to sag, but those pr's are rated to 40mm. More than double the max displacement of a 15" tc2k Yea, too many people have tall sonotube's with fantastic results... I know the physics is there, but so is something else I'm trying to go the 2-way route becuase if I got the crossover perfect, I could make use of the best of both worlds. It's just not possible for a sub that can handle 10-15hz to be in the same league as a sub built for 40-80hz during 40-80hz material. I want both After hours of more modeling...... 2 endtables, 18" sonotube. Total height 21". 62L sealed, each with a 12" tc2k. Both powered by 1 crown xti4000. (handle 40-80hz) 2 monster's too bad to sit anywhere but the corner, 24" sonotube, 500L tuned to 10hz, each with a 15" tc2k. Both powered by 1 crown xti1000. (10-40hz) Will I need more electronics, other than the denon and built in eq in the crown's to get the fr smooth? http://www.crownaudio.com/amp_htm/xti-specs.htm

let's just say I set the crossover on my denon to 80hz, and my rf-7's to small. How hard would it be, and what electronics would I need, to have 2 small sealed subs handle 40-80hz and two monsters handle 10-40. I can have 1 amp power them all, or 4 seperate, whatever will make this a successful endeavor. Will I be able to achieve a nice flat even response? Thanks again guys 60L sealed end tables- db, tc9, or 1k 500L sono's tuned to 10hz- 1k, 2k, or rlp oh, and could you use a pr on a sono instead of a port? Like this 18: http://tcsounds.com/tcvmp.htm with 1400 grams added? Is the sag too much?

I have never used, been around, or claim to know anything about pro amps. After modeling up the sono's, I want between 1000 and 1300 watts rms to each driver, more and I risk over excursion, and less is less db obviously. Here's what I'm down too, and have nothing to really go on, except $$$, rated watts, and a maybe handy built in eq: (the subs can come in either 2 ohm dvc, or 4 ohm dvc, so I have good effective resistance options) qsc rmx2450 $630 2400watts 2 qsc rmx 1450's $800 2800 qsc plx 2502 780 2500 2 crown xti 1000's 840 2800 crown xti 4000 800 3200 the money and watt differences here don't really affect my decision if one of them is going to sound better. thanks for any input

sounds like a plan, thanks for the input

shortest I can go, with 24" sonotube, and maintain a 15hz tuning is 3'11". 1/4 wavelength issues pushed up to 73 hz. Is that too low still? I just found out that my sonotube design software tells you that frequency, and advises you based on it. They say to put damping material on the top endcap. If I go to a 30" sonotube, I can get it down to 3' 2", and a 92hz- 1/4 wave. Thanks

didn't even think of that, had enough physics to not discredit it also well... i don't have many options here do I, except go fatter and shorter? or just shorter, which is probably more practical. the wavelength cancellation is surely a consideration, but to get the 1/4 wavelength outside of "subwoofer range" it needs to be so short. 40" yields 84hz. Ive never seen a sonotube that short. What do all the other guys do? what about something like a foot of fiberglass on the top plate, or 2 feet? 1 flared 6" port can handle 1 rl-p Keep 'em comin

The fr graph is extremely close, it's the large signal response where ported shines. Fed 1400 watts each, ported puts out 10+db more under 30hz I will use them to 60hz. The first port resonance is 496 with the 15hz tuning, and 140 with the 9hz tuning. I read it was fine as long as it was an octave over your xover. I'm all ears for a more detailed explanation though. no, 500L each. 24" sonotube 650 for both. I modeled several subs before choosing this one, and almost went with the tcsounds 1000 or 2000. For a couple hundred bucks, I'll bypass the buyers' remorse route. No replacement for displacement http://www.soundsplinter.com/rlp18_subwoofer_information.html Thanks guys

rl-p does 27mm one way excursion limits don't affect the frequency response until the excursion is limiting the ouput, unless im missing something, which isn't until 125 db at 15hz in room, 116 anechoic. . most of the time, im under 110 db. no like what im not trying to be rude, just don't know how else to respond. that in room does look so incredible i'm not suprised you asked.

I think I'm gonna hop on this sonotube bandwagon with 2 500L enclosures, each housing an SS rl-p18. power will come from an xti-4000 or 2 xti-1000's (both are $800, and supply the same rated power, 2800-3200. pro's con's of doing 1 vs 2 amps?). Quesiton is, what tuning? I am considering everything from 9-15hz . Anechoic, the 15 looks much better than the lower tunings, but after room gain, the 9hz looks great also. How low, frequency wise, is group delay important? The group delay goes very high near tuning (50ms), and with the 15hz tuning, it is closer to most "usable" material. As far as large signal response goes, they are the same down to 30hz. At 20hz, the 15hz tuning has a 5 db advantage, and at 10hz, the 9hz tuning has a 14db advantage. (excursion limiting is why those numbers are different from the fr graphs below) For the room gain here, I just put in reasonable numbers for F3', and Qb' in my program. (Frequency at which there is a 3db gain, and equivalent q (how lossy the environment is)) I used 30hz, and .5, which lead to a Fb (resonant frequency) of 19.3hz for the room. Thanks

I'm not familiar at all with a NAS. Is there a product I could look at, or an article I could read? Or just elaborate a little, thanks

haha, 100A. What is that 7 normal household circuits? Even the 30A.... Aren't most residential circuits 15 or 20A?