zuzu

http://www.soundseller.com/index.php/cPath/27?osCsid=c0b0e366cec1e35a2810ed44c3a04f98 These are all dvd's. Others on the thread I saw seemed to be talking like it was a Sony.

Dean gave a link to Sound Seller which has 11 DVD and 3 CD players. Which one is the recommendation?

My SP 11 tube pre amp is not playing one channel. The other channel is playing great.I swapped everthing in the system including all the interconnects. Put in new tubes. even changed power amps. If I change the speaker connections from the power amp the other speaker plays. Not the speakers or speaker cables or the power amp. Once and only once I got both speakers to play by switching the CD inputs on the pre amp. I put on a different disk and one channel dropped out again. With everything set up correctly it's the right channel that is dead.

Plugged the CD into a "Spare" Pre amp input and still the right speaker is not playing. Can this be a bad tube in the Pre amp?

Thanks Fritz.I made "NO" changes except put on another CD disk. Right speaker not playing again.

My right speaker wasn't playing. The left speaker was playing fine.I switched the CD input cables into the pre amp and both speakers played fine. Switched the input cables back to the original correct input and guess what??? Both speakers are now playing fine!!! What is going on in my pre amp. BTW, before I did the previous, I changed all the interconnects and the right speaker still would not play ie it's not the interconnect cables. Hmmm. This is a tube pre amp.

What is the thing called that one installs on their main electrical panel to handle direct lightning strikes? How much do they cost and where is a good place to get one?

Anyone else care to comment on RCA audio interconnects from my pre amp to my power amp?

I know that a good interconnect from pre amp to a sub need not be terribly special. Blue jeans being fine. But I am bi-amping. 2 channel. The pre amp out [RCA] feeds the sub and then the sub out[RCA] feeds my power amp and from the power amp to my 2 main speakers. In this set up don't I need higher quality interconnects thru out? What do you recommend?

What's interesting, if I'm reading these charts correctly, no instuments go below 32 Hz. So if you are listening to music rather than explosions etc, why does one need a subwoofer that goes below 30Hz?

I scoured HSU and SVS web sites and could never find any mention of their subs being bass reflex. Why is that? Too complicated for the audience? marketing? ???

I am told by Velodyne that because my Klipsch RF-7's are so efficient I need a high efficency base reflex subwoofer such as their DSL 5000R or I need the DD 18.[ The DD 18 is too much money] They would work much better with my speakers than the DD 12.. I noticed that the DD 12, that I just bought, doesn't get to play very loud because The RF 7's jump in and I have little sound from the DD 12. My question is who else makes great base reflex high output very efficient subs?

Thanks. My unit does not mention balanced [25 year old ARC SP-11] support and all the jacks are RCA. I see the blue jean balanced cables hae three pins, one male and female on the other end.

Thanks Harry. That silicone product is what they used. I was mistaken about them using graphite. There is no belt it is plastic gear driven. The techy is going to reclean it, he thinks the problem is the motor. In which case he says to get the whole mechanism replaced IF THERE IS ONE after all these years.I'll call Audio Research to find out if they have a replacement. Your further comments are most appreciated.

Ok, so what does balanced me? Thanks.

From what I have been reading, this sub out on the newer receivers is a single cable out not a L/R out. Is that correct? BTW, what does XLR stand for/mean?

Where do you make this setting? Is it on the DD-12 unit itself? I dont see it in the SMS. I have no such option on mt pre amp [ARC SP-11 vintage 1985] If I have no place to set it what does it by default end up being?

I was shopping for a friend! The only time it will be close to my RF-7's is for storage for my friend to pick them up. Speakers were not included in the bid. The total home system is retail suggested @ $ 399.95. Thanks for yor help. Believe me it is really appreciated!

Made by LG Electronics. Includes dvd player/ tuner/remote/ 5.1 channels. Does anyone know if this is a decent unit for a starter HT system? Factory refurbished, 90 day parts and labor for $52 plus $27 S/H.

For a real cheap set of HT speakers, what receiver do you recommend for under $100 or if such a thing exists under $50 would be better?

FWIW!!! A DD-15 sold on ebay on 3/24/07 for this low price with 15 bids. I have been watching these sell fo $ 2300 and up with 30 to 60 bids or so for several weeks. The seller is active only from feb of this year and has sold 14 items with a 100% rating. His location Newtown Pa, near Philadelphia. This doesn't make sense. Did this chap get burned with no reserve or is the buyer being scammed? His discription confused me also as he said DD-15-----DD-12 DD-15. Perhaps that's the reason.

Couple of general questions. If you find a best position for a DD 12, would this be the best position for a DD 15 as well? When you adjust the phase/polarity is this just pure trial and error or is there an approach or sequence to doing it? Same question for Q value and contour.

Thanks Guys. I have not looked inside, but the techy said there were plastic gears and a metal slide that the tray rides on. What ia an auto slider? Where do you get the silicon paste? I'll get these two products. It can't hurt to take the unit back and have the techy try again. I have nothing that shows the insides. It is an Audio Research CD 1 circa 1987. When it doesn't want to open all the way, a slight manual tug opens it. When it doesn't want to close a gentle push closes it. Sometimes it stutters not knowing what to do it takes a few pushes on the open/close button and manual assists to get it open or close properly.

A local TV audio techy cleaned and aligned my Audio Researcg CD player and it worked fine for 2 weeks. Now it is displaying the same symptoms as before I took it in. The open close mechanism is acting erratically.They used a graphite lube after cleaning. Is there a better lube suggestion? Or any other suggestions?

Thanks EAR. In the second approach where the sub is crossed at 80 Hz, The line outs on the sub go to the Power amp not the pre amp--- correct? I see a possible drawback in approach two if the sub cables need to be long to get to the best position. You have 4 long cables. In approach 1 you only have 2 long cables.