Mezball

Thank you for the reply.

I have been looking at the the new book shelves from the Reference Premiere line, mainly the RP-160M. Unfortunately, there isn't any stores near my area that have them on display, so no actual way hearing, or seeing them in person. Does anybody know if that angled base can be removed? I am not to fond of it. Also, Any idea if and when a 8" version will come out?

Just a little update. This weekend I completed my RB5 project. I replaced the internal wiring with some high quality 16 gauge very fine strand oxygen free wire, dampen the horn, and cabinet with some GTMAT Quadro four layer foam sound Deadener ( http://gtsoundcontrol.com/shop/GTMat-Quadro/ ). Also, added some poly-fill to the upper half of the cabinet, and very little to the bottom. Result? A much better sounding speaker, IMHO. A more neutral sound. The highs are smooth without that ringing, the mids aren't recessed, more forward, and the bass is tighter, less boomy. Over all I very happy. Just think, a couple months ago, I wanted to replace these, because of that lack of mid-range, and fatigue I was getting at medium listening levels. Not anymore.

I finally completed the upgrade a couple days ago. Replacing the caps, and resistor really did change the sound of the RB-5's. The midrange now has a more in your face sound to it, compared to before. Another thing I did notice is the high end has less of a sizzle to it, they aren't as bright as they were. If you decide to do this, this is what I used to upgrade: 1) Carity Cap 3.0 mfd 2) Carity Cap 12 mfd 3) Mills 4 Ohm 12 watt resistor. The new caps are huge compare to the originals, you will need to be creative on placement. Also, the old caps are glued down pretty good to the board.

Thanks for the reply DeanG. While browsing the forum, I read a couple times you gave the same advice about just switching out the caps, and the resistors. Earlier today before reading your reply, I ordered the ESA Series ClarityCap caps, and the Mills resistors. Kind of figured my hearing has changed. Vision starting going 3 years ago, now the hearing.

Hello all, So, as topic states looking for some advice or opinion about the crossover in a pair of 13 year old RB-5's. First a little history, about them. Purchased new in 2000, used quite a bit after purchase for about 3-4's years with a sub, then pretty much only use once in a while up until a 2 years ago, in which they been used for home theater. They have seen a few subs, pre-amp, and amp combos, from NAD, B&K, Marantz, Yahama, etc. Currently, I am using a Marantz SR5004 as a pre-amp, with a pair of Emovita UPA-200's powering the fronts/surrounds (RB-5 and RS-3), an AMC-2100 in bridged mode for the center(Klipsch RC-3), and OutLaw LFM-1 Plus sub. The room is somewhere between small and medium with low ceilings. Lately, it seems the mid-range has been kind of laid back, not as pronounce like a couple years ago. Nothing has changed with cabling or room placement, maybe it is just my hearing going, lol. Anyway, I was thinking of maybe replacing the caps in the crossover or the crossovers with something completely different. So my choices: 1) Replace caps with originals? 2) Replace caps with polypropylene, opinions? 3) Replace complete crossover with 1 of the following: A - Lex Audio LX-CX38 (1800Hz) http://www.lexaudio.us/crossovers.html (Click on PDF file on the left to get specs) B - Lex Audio LX-CX37 (2000Hz) http://www.lexaudio.us/crossovers.html C - Dayton Audio X02W-2K (2000Hz) http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-xo2w-2k-2-way-speaker-crossover-2000-hz--260-140 D - Eminence PXB2:1K6 (1600Hz) http://www.parts-express.com/eminence-pxb2-1k6-2-way-speaker-crossover-board-1600-hz--290-634 Thanks!

This is what they look like: http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/5710/20111016040928362.jpg http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/8066/20111016040916661.jpg

Hi all, As the subject suggest. Recently, I noticed that one of the tweeters in my good old KSF-S5 isn't working correctly. Measuring with a sound meter it is about12-15 db below the other. I hooked up a meter to check ohm reading, and both fall with 4.1-4.2. I tried switching the tweeters to the opposite connectors, and the one that was lower in sound was still the same but on the other connector. So, I've been looking for a replacement, but no luck. The manual calls for a 1" (2.54 cm)K-99-S neodymium magnet compression dirver, but the specs on the site calls for a K-99-SV 1" (2.54cm) Polymer dome compression driver, which one? or could I use a diiferent 1" driver from another Klipsch speaker similar in design? The markings on the driver itself reads 125492-1, 4ohm, and 9825. Thanks!

Right now , I've been running the Marantz MM9000 and AV9000 for a few yrs now. They are driving a pair of RB-5 fronts, RC-3 center, and an pair of RS-3 surround with no problems. Couldn't be happier. I've tried NAD, Adcom, Carver, and B&K in the past, but never made the cut. Marantz products have always been a good match for Klipsch speakers for me and I've owned a couple other models of Klipsch and Marantz in the past.