dtximages

"pushing really hard" is subjective but it's not hard to believe. I mean these were made with one thing in mind, output. Also, a box this large that only weighs 140lbs cannot be properly braced internally for optimal performance in a home environment.

Right now this is just a garage system so I'm using a Marantz sr1609 receiver.. Sub out to the SVS amp sitting on top of this big thing. The subwoofer management in this receiver is limited and difficult to made adjustments on the fly or while listening. I really want an external amp with some adjustment knobs on the front. I'm sure this is out there, I just don't have time to research and go down dead end roads. Hoping someone here could say "this is what you need for that..."

That's kinda what I was thinking too. It is cool to have the SVS app though to help tune and play around with. But with the pro amp, what do I do about an external crossover? I think some pro amps have low pass filters right? So that's essentially my subwoofer amp right there... correct?

Anyone know how to get inside this thing? I'd love to just remove the back panel. I've been trying to think of the best way to go about this. Jig saw the back out? Then replace it a new piece of more rigid mdf or something?

OMG what drivers are those? As far as the whole cabinet resonating, no that's never (should never be at least) by design. It's called building to a price point and no body cares in a cinema setting unfortunately. If you have not yet, I think these could use some serious cabinet mods. How do you power yours? If you're in Texas I'd love to see those!

I came across a used KPT884 subwoofer that came out of a Cinemark theater and wondering the best way to hook it up to my garage gym system.. Yes I know it's an overkill but it's fun. I have an amp from an SVS SB16 I'm not using. I hooked it up and it works fine and gives me phone app control which is great but is this a royal sin somehow? Is there a better way I should be powering it? Lastly, what's the best way to get into the cabinet? There are no visible screws. I'd like to add some bracing or dynamat or something. The walls visible shake and sounds totally hollow on the inside. I thought about internal bracing but then thought about adding another layer of MDF or something to the outside for extra rigidity. Anyone done anything interesting with these? I'm sure I'll end up selling in a few months if anyone in the Dallas area is interested.

I know, I thought the Moab would be my end game speaker but in my room the bass was way too bloated. Plugging the ports definitely helped but I always felt there was a gap in midrange power or dynamics. I just liked the balance of the Double Impact much better. The Moab is a VERY large not very well damped enclosure. I suspect that's why you see so many selling used for similar prices to the Double Impact. If you're looking for something smaller, the Impact Monitors are awesome.

I've had a long history with Klipsch. I sold my Klipschorns over the pandemic and was over the horn sound. In time's past, the Chorus II and Forte II was favorite Klipsch speaker. Fast forward to today and I landed a pair of Forte IV's and my old energy is back! I turned away from Klipsch for a long time and owned many great speakers but none as engaging and exciting WHILE still attaining pretty much every audiophile standard I care about... Not to mention they are SO powerful. I just "crunk" the dial way too high on some music and my jaw dropped. They didn't break a sweat and never lost composure and never got bright or honky!!! I knew the new line was good but this shocked me. I need to make room for new Cornwalls now Other speakers I've owned and loved in order of my personal favorites: STILL OWN IN ORDER OF MY LOVE FOR THEM Duntech Crown Prince (good luck knocking this big beauty off my number 1 spot) Thiel CS 3.6 Klipsch Forte IV RECENTLY OWNED IN ORDER OF MY LOVE FOR THEM KEF Reference 5 Tekton Double Impact SE KEF Reference 1.7 (never judge a speaker by its age) Tekton Perfect SET (surprised me! closest to the Forte but less dynamic and big sounding but amazing speaker for the $) Tekton Double Impact Thiel CS 2.3 KEF R900 Magnepan LRS (loved them but placement was the problem) Klipschorn (AA xovers - loved only for jazz and blues not for rock) Wilson Watt Puppy 5.1 (too bright and too fussy about placement to dial bass in) Anthony Gallo Ref3.5 (open yes, but shrilly bright and thin sounding) Tekton Moab (idk what happened her.. I had huge expectations and hated them. Bloated boomy boxy bass - got better with Townshend Seismic Podiums but still hated them) Magnepan 1.7 (awful - maybe the 1.7i is better but I gave up on them due to placement) *This is my personal "enjoyment of ownership" list only. It doesn't mean anything is bad, it just means I couldn't gain a connection to it or it was bad. The Right now im powering the Forte IV's with a Gryphon Diablo 250 integrated and it just manhandles the bass and zero sense of brightness, shrill, or honky in this set up. Absolutely brings down the house. If anyone tells me the Forte is not an "audiophile" speaker, I will fight them.

Does the uninterrupted length of wall extruding from the Khorn's corner matter? How long should they be? Do longer flat walls translate to deeper/louder bass? I have windows close to my corners, wondering if these are inhibiting / altering the bass any. Surprisingly I don't hear rattles.

I've got REW I just cringe at putting it in the chain as another external RCA "thing". Plus I found REW very confusing especially compared to ARC. Anyone in the DFW area want to come help? ha

Anyone else like their Khorns, Lascalas, Belles, or other big Klipsches with room correction? I just ran ARC again and I can tell it took out some big midbass hump but overall, they just sound dead, not as dynamic. Of course, if I listen a while, my ears adjust but the highs just seem to sparkle less. Maybe more flat. But is that really what we're looking for? Maybe these speakers aren't supposed to be "fixed". Important note: My room does suck.. I tweaked the ARC settings to bring low freq to flat (i.e. don't roll off) then I bumped up the high freq to not roll off as much. The corrected curve LOOKs flatter, but gosh its less exciting. Anyone else have experience with this? Dirac Live? Probably the same effect. Attached the curve pdf. KH and KH w Sub 02052021.pdf

Thanks baron167. Maybe i should rent a minivan then.

Trying to decide if I have to get a trailer or not. I understand the Khorns are easy to take apart. Can I just remove the uppers and fit them in my Lexus GX460 suv you think? Any big dangers in doing this? I feel better about his as opposed to strapping them to the wall of a trailer not really knowing if one of them gets loose.

I have quite the opposite opinion. I too have multiple remotes (TV, Nvidia Shield, Nakamichi soundbar, Emotiva preamp, Cambridge cxn) and wanted to use the Harmony Elite. Here's my problem. The remote does not know when a component is already on. So when it tries to run an activity, if that component is on, it turns it off while turning the other devices on. So i'm always trying to ensure everything is on/off properly. Also, it's not good with two activities. For example, I was listening to 2ch audio through Emotiva preamp.... I wanted to turn the tv on and wait for a program to start, when I ran the "Watch TV" activity, it turned off my Preamp.. Lastly, my Nvidia Shield and Nakamichi soundbar do so many different things (like with surround formats), the Harmony remote is very limited in what it controls - so I still have to keep picking up other remotes. Anyway, I hope it keeps working well for you but if I have to pick up my other remotes more than 1x per week, i'm done!

Quick update.. I found out that you cannot use MiniDSP's Dirac version with anything other than their UMIK-1 mic. So i bought this Dayton Audio mic for absolutely nothing. At the time of purchase (like 2 mts ago) I read better reviews on it. Well so much for that.