jbek

Thanks guys!

Just put my Cornwall's back together after restoration and noticed something I hadn't noticed before on bass heavy passages. Air seems to be being forced between the K77 & it's mounting surface when the bass really hits hard. Same thing for the K55?? This creates a a muffled distortion like sound. I was wondering if anyone else noticed this? I thought I tightened them down good, but I haven't pull the rear covers off to double check...

Sorry to go back off topic, but... Keep your chin up Ray! This thread has meant alot to me as well since I'm in the same boat. Having been in Software Consulting for the last five years and having been laid off 3 times in the last year certainly has been an experience. The last one happened just over a month ago and I'm still looking... The one prior to that put me in a moving van from the Bay Area on my way to my home town of Miami, FL. Things could be better... things could be worse... I'll tell you what though.. there is a bright side to my situation: 1)Less "work related" stress! 2)More time with my family.. (wife, kid, parrot, german shepherd) 3)And.. more time with my audio gear! :-) If it weren't for the lack of income and the necessity of finding something, I'd say I felt like I was retired.. JB PS: I really need to get a job so I can get a bigger place and take my Klipschorns out of storage... (Relying on KSB 2.1's at the moment)

Hey guys, I've got what I think is a blown K-22 in one of the Heresy's I have... One of K-22's plays real low and clackity (best way I can describe it...). I've taken both K-22's out and measured for continuity and both measure around 7.5 ohms. Cones and surrounds on both look to be in decent shape. When tapped on the dome of the woofer, the healthy one seems to freely float with no problem. However, the bad one's cone seems to sit noticably lower in the basket and goes clack,clack,clack when tapped on the dome gently. It appears that the bad woofer is not being supported like the good one and it is hitting the rear of the magnet or something... Any assistance would be greatly appreciated... A local speaker repair shop wants $60 to rebuild it which will involve reconing it (they won't save the old cone)... My only thing is, I'd like to keep both cones matching on these... Can anyone explain exactly what's wrong with these based on my description above? Can these possibly be self repaired? Thanks in advance.. JB

Anybody know what years the K-600 horn lens was used in the Heresy? Was the K-55 always mounted to the K-600? When they went to the K-700, was that when they went to the Hepner driver?

Not so far from my perspective... You've basically got a box with all square edges and no fine nooks or crannies that you would need to get into sanding out... If you can get a good deal on a pair, go for it.. Factor in around $25 for materials and probably several weekends if you take your time... My biggest thing is what color to stain them.. I still haven't made up my mind.. That and I can't find a pair of midrange horns to put in them... (I'm starting with just cabinets and I don't want to finish them until I'm sure I'm not going to have to make any mods to them...) The only other thing I'd say is to make sure you're happy with the color they are currently stained or try to find a raw birch pair... Other than getting into bleaching the wood (seems like a hassle..), it's impossible to sand down the wood to virgin veneer... Check my in process photo at the top of the thread.. jB

Hehe... I already have a couple of photo's of your speakers I've pulled off the forums.. I've been looking at yours as my "natural" example!! Beautiful speakers! What do you think about the polyurethane vs hand rub oil decision? Do you think the oil will protect the corners like poly would? Had any trouble with yours? Thanks, JB

Just thought I'd get some opinions here.. I'm in the midst of finishing a pair of original '76 CD-BR "designer" series Cornwall 1's. Photo attached. I originally thought of going with a Tung oil finish, but have tentatively decided to go with a Minwax stain/polyurethane combination. I figure the polyurethane will protect the exposed plywood edges of the Designer series better. What do you guys think? I read somewhere that end grain should be protected with a solution of 1 part shellac to 4 parts alcohol so that a better color match between the veneer and the end grain of the plywood is obtained. Apparently the end grain soaks up the stain quicker than the veneer and it will come out darker otherwise... What do you guys think? What color stain would you guys go with? My gut says something in the natural range, but I'm not sure what... Since these are the Designer versions, I would like to minimize the impact of the exposed plywood end grain. With that in mind, perhaps a darker stain would go better? Most of the color samples in the store are on pine & oak samples and the same color varies signigicantly between the two.. Since a Birch sample isn't shown, I'm wondering what would look best. Is there a "typical" stain color that matches up well with birch? Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated! Any photo samples would be awesome!!

Check the following links: Chris Venhaus page.. see audiophile links on the left: http://www.geocities.com/venhaus1/index.html John Risch page... click the "main link to cable information... " on the left. http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/index2.htm Also, do search on www.audioasylum.com for diy cabling and interconnects. Have fun! JB

Oh yeah... Could I use the 4.3uf Solen you require in your crossover plans as my temporary 4.0uf cap and then reuse that when I'm ready to go to the upgrade?? Thanks again!

Okay. I think I've got it. Just one last thing - When you say "short" the 2uf cap, you mean the one next to the .45 inductor... and when you say "short", you mean connect the 2 terminals on top of the cap together... This would be the equivalent of taking the cap completely out of circuit and connecting the leftover output of the other 2uf cap directly to terminal 8. Correct? Any ideas on a replacement for the K-600 without making changes to the cabinets? Thanks a whole bunch for all the assistance AL !! This allows me to get a pair of old CW's up and running w/o spending any dough! A must for a laid off guy like me...

Wow Al! That was quick. Couple of questions: 1. Are the zener diodes the 2 diode looking things sitting in an L shaped bracket with both wires soldered to terminals 8 & 7 (the tweeter terminals)? 2. I'm confused about #2... a. Is the .45 inductor the circular item with the screw in the top of the black plastic top? Are you saying to desolder the black lead from that goes to the 2uf cap and the black lead going to terminal 7? b. When you say "remove... output 2 uf cap", what do you mean? Do I leave the connection to the other 2 uf cap and the one going to terminal 8 connected? c. In my photo of the Type B, that last connection looks like it is soldered to terminal 3 of the T2A... 3. No problem on the 13 uf to the 4 uf... do you recommend anything in particular... since this will be temporary, I'm not sure I want to invest too much (e.g., Solen)... Oh yeah, in the photo of the type B crossover, I only see 2 caps... are they not the same 2 uf caps that are in the AA? Why would I need an additional 4 uf cap? 4. Gotcha! 5. Gotcha! Thanks again Al! Just want to get things clear!! Oh yeah, one last thing.. Besides the 301 Tractrix mod, any ideas on a K-600 replacement?? I need to find a pair...

I've got a question for you more technical types out there... I need to put together a pair of Cornwall Type B crossovers on a budget... I've successfully built a set of Al's crossovers for my Khorns and I don't have the money right now for all those expensive parts... I do however have my spare AA networks and I was wondering if these could temporarily be turned into Cornwall type B networks till I get the dough to go with the better ALK's?? I have a photo of the type b networks and it looks like they might use the same T2A, 2uf caps, and the 2133 inductor (is that what that is?)... I just don't have an example to make the right connections. As you can see, I'm no electrical engineer... I know just enough to ask the right questions and ensure I don't screw up... I could probably decipher a schematic with a question or two... Can anybody point me in the right direction? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

Hi guys, I'm looking to outfit a pair of Cornwall cabinets and was wondering if anybody had any spare drivers they would be interested in getting rid of? K33's, K55's, cornwall midrange horns, crossovers, K33's ?? I keep track of what's going on at eBay, but prices over there are sky high!!! I was hoping some of you guys over here that are into collecting might be in a bind and need some extra dough... :-) This message has been edited by jbek on 01-22-2002 at 10:02 AM

I'm sure you will get many qualified on opinions on this question, but my understanding is that it's really a matter of taste... Some prefer the sound of the older Alnico magnets in the vintage drivers... On the other hand, there's no doubt that improvements were made to the drivers and crossovers as time passed... I will see that I love my '77's and wouldn't part with them for the world!! Good luck!