elviszappa

For Sale 2) KP-250 3 way horn speakers with 12” woofer 2) KP-115/1000 bass bin with 15” woofer and passive crossover 2) Klipsch Mounting Poles included (ok it's 6 pieces I guess) I bought these new in the 1990’s for my DJ business. I stopped DJing 3 years ago and it’s time for them to go to a new home. This set up can play VERY loud when needed. They have a very clean sound with plenty of bass. I powered them a QSC amp that was 225 watts a channel and have played to events with up to 500 people with no problem. You plug the output of the amp into the KP-115’s and the passive crossover sends everything above 150Hz to the KP-250’s via separate output jacks. These would work great as a P.A. for a band, D.J., a bar or as a part of a "over the top" home system! I would consider selling as a package deal, my QSC USA 850 amp (with road case) and a separate set of Ultimate TS90 speaker stands. I used them to raise the KP-250 up to 6 foot high. They work great to get the horns above the heads of the crowd for better projection. $1000 takes all.

SOLD ..... For sale; 2) KP-250 - 3 way horn speakers with 12” woofer 2) KP-115/1000 - bass bin with 15” woofer and passive crossover 2) Klipsch Mounting Poles included (ok it's 6 pieces I guess) I bought these new in the 1990’s for my DJ business. I stopped DJing 3 years ago and it’s time for them to go to a new home. This set up can play VERY loud when needed. They have a very clean sound with plenty of bass. I powered them a QSC amp that was 225 watts a channel and have played to events with up to 500 people with no problem. You plug the output of the amp into the KP-115’s and the passive crossover sends everything above 150Hz to the KP-250’s via separate output jacks. These would work great as a P.A. for a band, D.J., a bar or as a part of a "over the top" home system! I would consider selling as a package deal, my QSC USA 850 amp (with road case) and a separate set of Ultimate TS90 speaker stands. I used them to raise the KP-250 up to 6 foot high. They work great to get the horns above the heads of the crowd for better projection. $1000 takes all.

What sonic improvements can I expect to hear form upgrading my stock Hersey II auto-transformers with Bob Crites model 3636 ?

How much of the Beyma CP-25 "good" sound is do to the "baby cheeks" horn / lens? I'm wondering if you could take it's compression driver and mount it to a K-76-K horn and end up with a improved K-76-K. The mounting part might not be a easy swap, I understand that, I'm just wondering how it might sound.

Please see my update to the question in the "updates and mod" section. EV

In a completely (?) unscientific experiment, I did a comparison between the K-24-K and the K-48-E woofers. This may sound whacky at first, but I took each woofer out of their cabinets and hooked them up full range resting on the floor and leaning against the Hersey II cabinets. This ended up being quite revealing. First thing I that stood out was how much louder K-42 was. Next I notice how much farther into the mid range it emphasized. I have no test equipment to verify this unfortunately, but it was very noticeable. I could imagine it would work quite will in a 2 way system. I have some audio frequency sweep files that I played and they were also revealing. At moderate listening levels, the K-24 became audible right around 40hz well the K-42 really didn't kick in till about 65 or 70hz. The K-42 play smoothly right up to around 9k. The K-24 would also play to 9k though it really had a large dip in volume around 5-6k and just faded down from there. Putting them both into the Hersey II to cabinets the previous results were plain to hear. The K-42 was slightly louder and more mid range forward well the K-24 was more balanced with better low end. I'm sure the K-42 could be "balanced out" with a redesigned crossover but the lack of low end would make it a step back compared to the K-24 in my option.

I pulled one out of a pair of KP 250 that I know longer use. It's a beast ... tipping the scales at 15lb's! I'd love to see the full specs and or freq. response curve chart. I know they were design to handle more power and work in a ported inclosure but curious what they would sound like in my Hersey II's .

I pulled one out of a pair of KP 250 that I know longer use. It's a beast ... tipping the scales at 15lb's! I'd love to see the full specs and or freq. response curve chart. I know they were design to handle more power and work in a ported inclosure but curious what they would sound like in my Hersey II's .

Thanks Chris and Don for your responses. That Danley Sound Labs' Synergy is wild and hard to wrap my head around. The idea of multiple drivers putting a signal into the horn at different angles could come out as one coherent sound is mind boggling .... and interesting. I wonder if you could do it with just a mid and tweeter driver. It seems like the angle part would really change the sound. I did find this picture of a multi driver horn that makes a little more sense to me though. EZ

Looking at my Hersey II's last night I got thinking what determines the size of the tweeter and mid horns. I’m assume it must have to do with the wave length. What would be the effect, on the sound of the tweeter, if you put its compression driver on the mid range horn? Is there a reason it has to be 1/3 the size of the squawker? I’ve seen tweeters that had much big horns. Just wondering. EZ

As a follow up to this old thread ... I've been doing a lot of research on caps and crossovers in preparing for a crossover rebuild and came across this set of photos from the Sonus Faber factory making Amati speakers ($27,000.00 a pair, but that does include free shipping !). http://www.hifi-notes.com/sonusfaberamatifabrikage-nl.htm I though the photos of the crossover were interesting. It's also interesting that they seal them in resin when the are finished. I'm still thinking of leaving my crossovers outside the cabinets to avoid vibration do to the high sound pressure level inside. It looks like they use a different solution... interesting!

For me size is a problem with that upgrade idea....unless I went with some of the newer, narrower floor models. But that's a whole other ball wax. EZ

"just curious what your intended goal is" A quick story to explain. Through my job at Verizon I spend 3 weeks at home and than 3 weeks in NYC ..and then ...repeat! Thank God retirement is only 5 years away, I'm getting to old for this. On my last tour I stopped at The Stereo Exchange in Manhattan on my lunch hour. I got a chance to listen to flagship models from Bowers and Wilkins, Sonus Faber and Totem Acoustic ..all matched very high end electronics. Talking with a coworker after lunch he asked my what I had though. It hit then, I was expecting to be blow away but I wasn't. Don't get me wrong they all sounded VERY good and if I won the lotto I'd be in there buying the next day. But for me, they did not sound that ($) much better the my Klipsch/ Marantz system. Honestly I think my Heresy II are about 85 - 90% "there". Thinking about it, what they had over my speakers was a very realistic, wide and deep sound stage. Listening to some traditional jazz in one room every instrument was in it's own distinct place without all "bleeding" together in the middle. My Heresy's are quite good with "imaging" but these were a cut above. I'm really quite happy that my system compared so well overall. I am of the belief that a lot of that openness and realism is do to the crossovers ... taking the source components out of the equation that is. So I'm trying to decide if I could take my Heresy's to the 90 - 95% point by upgrading crossover. It's a tall order I know but really do like their sound. The flip side of all this is once I settle on a design I have to sit down and decide if it's worth the cost. The other option for me has always been to retire my H II and either upgrade them to H III or find some used H III the I could buy. EZ

"I don't think you want to increase the output of the woofer at crossover" I agree. I was asking this question, in reference to Antone's post, to try to understand how the different components work together an what they each do. I don't have the ability or desire to redesign the crossover. EZ

"I have never heard someone suggest that capacitors in parallel '"must be close to equal in value to make them "blend" together". This opinion came as a response to my question about paralleling different brands of capacitor to get a sort of "best qualities of both" (my term) combination. To quote his reply "Pairing different types to create a certain blend can work quite well but can be a bit tricky to make them "melt" into one sound. Some mix very well, like Clarity Cap SA with Mundorf Surpeme or Intertechnik TriReference with Mundorf Silver Oil. Best seems to be when the values are about 50/50." I don't presume to speak for him but I don't think he was in any way trying to imply some sort of hard and fast rule. It's all just food for thought. EZ

"He is is at the extreme end of the spectrum" .... "he lives in a very different world than those who use horns and compression drivers." I sure your right on both points, though looking at some of his speaker designs, other than some of his elaborate baffling and his crossovers, they seem fairly straight forward. I sure his prices are way above anything I could afford though. I did send him a copy of the Heresy II crossover circuit diagram and he was more than helpful recommending cap replacement ideas with no "buy from me" motive behind them. I though that was very nice of him. Like I said earlier, if nothing else it's another source of info on various brands and types of caps. Other than me going out and buying a pile of cap's and trying to compare them myself (which is beyond what I have the ability or setup to do), it gives me the opinion of someone who seems to be very knowledgeable and passionate about speaker components. It's another view I can try to learn from. Like I have here and other forums from the likes of you, Bob C, Al K and many many others. My whole goal is to get every last ounce of quality sound out of my Hersey's that I can ... short of replacing them (that a whole other story!). Also unlike some Klipsch fans I have no qualms about altering the "original PWK sound" if it sounds better to me in my setup. If the "original PWK sound" is so sacred why did they come out with the Heresy II and III? Even Klipsch is trying to improve the sound ... as well they should. Blasphmy I know, but to each his own. EZ

You may want to take a look at Humble Homemade HiFi capacitor test page ... http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html ... if you have not seen it already. I've talked, via email, with the owner Tony Gee and he has been very helpful with information and recommendations tailored to what I'm trying to achieve with the upgrade. I had asked him about using different caps in parallel and he said he's had "some" good results but they must be close to equal in value to make them "blend" together. I realize his tests are very subjective but like that he is a speaker builder and he also builds his own crossovers. If you read his intro on the capacitor test page you'll see is test methodology. If nothing else it's another source for info my various brands and types. EZ

Thanks Bob and Dean for your replies. You have answered and clarified all my questions. Does either of you know the DCR value of the stock 2.5mH and the .16mH coil/inductors? I'm planing on a complete rebuild of my Heresy II crossovers after a previous recap only rebuild. I'm thinking of using air core coils and I would like to match the DCR as close to the stock ones as I can. Right now I'm looking a Mundorf caps, Supreme or Sliver and Oil. Also a new autotransformer from Bob and air core coils maybe from Jantzen. If I make it "pretty" enough I'm toying with the idea of leaving them outside the cabinets ! EZ

I’m trying to “wrap my head around” what all the components in a crossover are doing and how they relate to each other. Looking at the schematic below (thanks to the original poster ... Bob Crites I believe). I have a few questions. I’m not trying to redesign my crossover just fully understand it. I understand that in the woofer circuit the coil and cap create a low pass filter. I read in a post by Antone .. (http://community.klipsch.com/forums/p/143885/1471593.aspx#1471593) .. that he lowered the DCR and the mH value of the coil to increase the output of the woofer. Does this make sense … would it increase the output? Would lowering or raising the value of the woofer capacitor change the crossover point? In the mid-range circuit I’m not clear on the autotransformer. I believe it is to balance the mid-range horn with the woofer and tweeter. Is that correct? Looking at the new replacement ones that Bob Crites is selling I wonder what would be the effect of changing the tap to say -12dB or -09dB? Would raise or lower the output of the mid horn? Also why could it not be replaced with a resistor to get -10dB cut … is there some purpose it serves that I’m missing? Does anybody know the DCR value of the stock 2.5mH and the .16mH coil/inductors? And lastly on a separate note, what combination of coil and cap would create a 3000 Hz high pass filter. Thanks for any info you can give me. EZ

All I saw was a picture of the actual crossover posted here ... http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/166713.aspx Looks very complex compare to the I and II crossover and I was curious as to what the circuit looked like. EZ

Saw pictures of the crossover posted else where and really would like to see what they done. Thankz EZ

I have "offsets" attached to the luan, front and back. They hold it about 3" from the wall and 2" from the shelf. The shelf pushes against the luan and the luan pushes against the wall so it's fairly solid. The wiring was a little tight to get in place (the 3" behind) but since I don't need to move connections once in place it's not really a problem

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I'm a fanatic about having a "clean" look. Since it's a open rack, I built a false back out of luan plywood that looks like the wall behind the cabinet. It sits about 3 inches behind the cabinet. I even added baseboard to the bottom if it. I have holes behind each component that I feed the wires through. The wires feeding the speakers are Monoprice 12AWG speaker cable (for in-wall istallation), in white, so you don't notice them against the baseboard. I'll post some pictures.