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WWOOF

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  1. dr-dezibel: what did you like more about the RB-75's? Higher quality drivers, imaging? I'm curious. BTW, I had Heresy I's for fifteen years before I foolishly sold them. I miss'em.
  2. My RB-35's sound fine but I'd like a little more bass. I have a fondness for stand mounted speakers yet I can get RF-35's a few hundred bucks cheaper. Can anyone compare the two? Do the RF-35's have a more significant amount of bass? Do the RD-75's image better having only two drivers? Any opinions welcome. Thanks.
  3. Caution: digital amps can take quite a while to break-in--more so than most conventional or tube amps. The Flying Moles are a lot of overkill if you are running a two channel setup with Klipsch speakers. Play those things as much as you can the next two weeks and report back. I'm interested in the 12V version and would like to know what you think. (BTW, most digital amps love battery power because it's so clean.) BTW, how much is a pair going for these days? Thanks.
  4. Would the current RB-35's midwoof be a drop-in replacement for my RB-5's? If so, where would be the best place to order them from and at about what cost? Thanks.
  5. WWOOF

    KL 650 THX

    Why is this speaker so outrageously expensive? The cabinet size is roughly the same as a standmount and the drivers don't seem to be special. So why would they be $1200 a box? Somebody enlighten me, please?
  6. This has been going on for years and I think I just figured out what the problem might be after my warranty just ran out. For years I thought my cd player had a channel out of balance problem until I switched the speakers around one evening. The lower volume channel moved with the speaker. The problem seems to be with the tweeter and it seems to be down approximately 2db or more than the other speaker. I switched tweeters around and the problem still persisted in the same cabinet meaning, to me, that the problem is the crossover not the driver. Someone on another forum suggested I use an ohm meter to check the connections to the tweeter. Unfortunately, I don't have a meter or any concept of how to use one. Is it more likely that I have a defective crossover or a bad connection? How much would a replacement crossover cost and would it match the other since my RB-5's are just over five years old, now?
  7. Yes, the silver interconnects seem to bring it out a bit more, but it is always there. The speakers don't sound all that forward, it's the glare that is out of place when it occurs.
  8. I use mostly a Decware Zen and Acurus DIA. Both amps are totally broken-in. The effect is greater with the tube amp and especially if used with silver interconnects, but is present with any combination. The speakers are about 5 feet from the side walls and toed-in away from the sides.
  9. My RB5's are headed towards 2 years old and are thoroughly broken in. I have use solid state and a tube amp with them and have a persistent problem with mid-range glare. Certain frequencies blare or jump-out above the overall volume level, especially with voices, horns, and pianoes. I have tried 4 different types of interconnects and several kinds of speaker cables, including magnet wire. Is this mostly a product of the crossover or just the horn? Is there anything I can do, such as a certain kind of dampening on the horn or cabinet? Thanks, fellow Klipschsters.
  10. Tony, my version B sounded okay but went through tubes pretty quickly. It seems that two points were left unsoldered according to the "shop" when they inspected it. I don't know what the partial upgrade encompassed but it did not included all the parts--but it did result in a the fastest amp I have ever heard. (Keep in mind, I haven't heard a lot of state-of-the-art amps, necessarily.) When it did not "burn-in" and yield any bass I returned it and a "bypass" cap was added. This cap had a tremendous effect. It veiled the sound, thickened the bottom-end effecting the voice range, and slowed everything down. Of course, the options are slim: take the bypass cap back out or leave it. I am not a solder slinger so I am kind of stuck at the moment. (I almost forgot--after the cap was added, I picked up a nasty hum that seems dependent on where the volume control is set.) Basically, I as I stated earlier, my speakers haven't changed. The amp has. I was better off when it was gobbling tubes. I guess to get that razor fast detail and imaging along with bass, you gotta buy the big amps. 8-)
  11. I have a Zen amp. Had it about a year and a half and have had a few quality control issues with it. It seemed to drive my RB5's satisfactorily until I sent it in for repair. The builder gave me a partial upgrade for my trouble and when I got it back it was greased lightning capable of throwing spooky images all over the place. Problem: no bass under about 100hz. Returned it for another mod to correct the situation and now the amp's bass output overpowers the musical scale. It completely veiled the performance and slowed the amp's response tremendousily. Apparently I am not the only one who has experienced this from other post seen on his website. In one forum exchange, he laid off this mixed performance on the speakers we use. Well, if a design is so good, why does it get worse instead of better? I don't understand how my RB5's could cause that. The impedance curve has remained the same--the speakers are a constant--what gives? Educate me. This message has been edited by WWOOF on 06-15-2001 at 11:09 PM
  12. Dave, please keep in mind that a tube amp is almost like having a child. They need loving attention! I love mine and it worries me when it stays out late and doesn't check in.
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