syzygy

The replacements are New Old Stock from Klipsch. I think this post illustrates an important point for vintage or used speakers. The drivers can gradually lose some of their accuracy or whatever one wishes to characterize it as, over time or if used to party "too hard". The KSP-400 can play ridiculously loud if pushed and that may be what happened, given my recollection of the prior owner. I have two sets of KSP-S6 which use the same driver in surround. So I can compare not only the KSP-400 drivers but also use the surrounds as reference when playing I play them on multi-channel setting which provides equal output to all speakers. Dinah Washington or Diana Krall vocals now sound more live and nuanced than ever before. Once again, thanks. For less than two hundred bucks I can bring these back to their former glory, and have "audiophile" quality sound on the cheap.

Without a response for 48 hours, I briefly thought the robust Klipsch community had lost some of it's gusto or expertise. I was wrong. Admittedly, your explanation is somewhat beyond my understanding of crossovers and output but what I do take from your comments is that the speaker provides similar frequnecy output for both mid drivers. Correct? I recently replaced both upper drivers with NOS drivers because one of the drivers was audibly "resonating" at a certain frequency. Upon swapping out the first driver only I could hear a distinct difference in the sound from the L vs. R speaker. With both swapped out the sound has improved appreciably. Now it seems both lower drivers lack the "sparkle" and "accuracy" of the new upper drivers, although both have similar audible output. From your explanation, I may need to swap those as well. Even with only two new drivers, these speakers now are legitimately competitve with my fully refurbished Cornwalls powered by a Stromberg tube amp. Whereas before they were relegated to surround sound only. Thank you for taking the time to provide such a detailed explanation. My ears thank you as well.

I am ignorant regarding the crossover and driver frequency ranges on the KSP-400. What I would like to know is if the KSP-400 uses the same frequency range for both mid drivers or are they staggered/overlapping? The 400 is supposed to follow the D'appolito design that normally entails a 3rd order crossover. Does that mean there are three frequency ranges? I ask because the upper drivers on my KSP-400 seem to carry the higher frequnecies more than the lower driver.s. Then again, these speakers are now 15 years old and my lower drivers may be "tired" ? Because, they are mine, they have been played at significant volume more than occassionally. Also, wanting to know if people have replaced caps or updated their KSP crossovers and to what effect? Thanks in advance.

My Heresies arrived from Nevada in two pieces (two boxes), in good shape. They seem to be from a transitionary period. Looks like K-22, K-53 combo with E-2 network at least on one of them. Is that possible? And is the crossover matched with those speakers and drivers? Cab inside are clean and lookslike no funny business went on. So any help with ID and crossover upgrade. update would be apprecited. Serial Numbera are not close- they both started out as HBR but now are adorned with some ofthe ugliest sh%t brown stain I have ever seen. 16O Y 535 And 132 X 045 Thanks in advance. Pics tomorrow.

Yes, I have some cabs they would work in, and shipping was so cheap I figured I could return them if they were not satisifactory as he offers returns. What do you think? They must be industrial or professional Utah?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270545535100 Ebay item number 270545535100 Thanks in advance for any input on what these are.

UPDATE B-3 Crossovers Updated thanks to Crites and Harry O for a nice clean install of the kit. Sound is "better," especially in the mid and highs. Better blend of the tweeter and mid. Harry specially configured the crossover to accommodate the Crites tweeters and it is seamless now. Updated crossover "clean up" the sound as well IMHO. Especially at lower listening levels, the detail and clarity appears improved. Old caps were visibly leaking and FWIW I would recommend owners to update thier B-3 , if you want the full potential of the speakers to be heard. Also, installed Klipsch 5-way posts. This will allow for use of tara labs rsc cables but I wanted to see the crossover change first and let them break in before adding cables. Marantz 1120 still kicking out the jams with no problems. Up Next: Buying or building risers to replace mine which are about done. Any suggestions on building them, or risers for sale/trade, I would love to hear from you.

Last one. With the new tweeters and older woofers and after selling old woofs and tweets I have some time and less than $300 in these puppies. I think my marantz 1120 is a good match with them. Done for now if I can get the spot fixed.

The blemish is kind of greenish fyi. Here is a another pic of the whole speaker.

This is the problem area. I am looking to keep the birch raw and smooth for right now. Is anything recommended to use on the raw birch just to keep it clean?

Except for not being able to remotely adjust the volume, I've found this to be a great match with my Cornwalls. Absolutely blows away my Nakamichi Stasis ta-2a. The phono is also making my average, but like new Sanyo turntable, sing. Should this unit be serviced at all or left alone. It needs a new fuse holder fo sure. thanks

I am making progress and the wood bleach helped. I have one spot left 6' in diameter with hwat looks like water or mold damge. Nothin will touch it and its deep. Any suggestions? The discoloration in this area is pretty dark. Also, one riser has lost a significant amount of outer birch layer. Where can I get a pirece thats at least close to a match? If its not too hard I may even consider putting a new top on one speaker? Thaks guys.

I can get several dozen Russian Beatles Albums. He asking 15 a piece right now, but that ain't gonna happen. Im think 3 a record. Are these god sounding or cheap knock offs?

Hooked it up. Let me say I thought this was just an amp, not an integrated amp like this, so that was a surprise. Likes: Clean sound, no hiss, hum etc. Lingering sound, can hear the last note Volume control is senstive and doesn't get too loud too fast. Doesn't force too much bass. it's there just not excessive like newer receivers. Dislikes No remote - im a volume changer No digital input Silver Not super warm but pleasantly clinical (if that makes any sense) To keep, or keep searching. that is the question.

Retail Price 449.95, October 1st 1974 Marantz Dealer List First Year 1973 Last Year 1975 Wood Case WC-1 Silver Face Yes Model Legend Console Stereo Amplifier Channels Two Speaker Connections Two sets Chassis Ground Yes AC Switch Yes Fusing 4 amp 250 volt BUSS MTH Switched AC Outlets 2 x 300 watts Unswitched AC Outlets 1 x 300 watt Power Consumption 120 watts at full power PhysicalWidth 15 3/8 Height 5 3/4 Depth 14 Weight 32.5, shipped AmplifierRMS Power Per Channel 60 Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) 0.15% Power Bandwidth 10 Hz to 40 kHz Intermodulation Distortion (IM) 0.15% PreamplifierMultiple Bass Adjustments Left, Right Multiple Treble Adjustments Left, Right High Filter Yes Low Filter Yes Gain Control Yes Balance Yes Number of Tape Monitors Two Tape to Tape Dubbing Yes, via front panel jacks Auxillary Input Source Yes Tuner Source Input Yes Source Microphone Input Left, Right Source Tape Input (as opposed to a tape monitor) Yes 2nd Source Tape input (as opposed to a tape monitor) Yes Tape Monitor Yes 2nd Tape monitor Yes Headphone Jack(s) Yes Speaker Selection Nomenclature Main, Remote

Picked up a Marantz 1120 "console amplifier," 60 watts per channel, no tuner but aux phono etc. Will this match up well with Cornwalls, or should I trade it for a Jolida etc. Cannot find much on this amplifier. Any help would be appreciated. It's an 8/10, silver with rack mounts.

Thanks for the detailed response on amp removal. As of this moment I don't need to remove it- yet. The 3 into 2 fixed the hum on the non-repaired ampliier. But then, lo and behold, I hear the hum again a few hours later. You guessed it-the "fixed" amp is now humming. Throw in the prong adapter + cross my fingers... voila- no hum. But probably a bad omen to come. We'll see. FYI, the first amp failed and the hum(s) began while plugged into a decent old school Monster hts-3500 power conditioner so I don't think curent fluctuations are the cause. Keep posting the fix. So, I'll think I'll give the 400's a little rest, and listen to the Cornwalls in 2 channel. FYI, I am still exploring the Cornwalls and dialing them in , they are great speakers, but in a HT set-up I think the 400's/S6 are still the way to go. So it's probably worth the work you are putting in.

Hmmm.. Anyway, I'm going to try the prong swap first. I talked to Harry (Bailey), he can't find the amp, even though he has one his inventory sheet. Anyway he mentioned that the amps did have quality issues, and some parts are not up to the task. My only other thoughts are PartsExpress, as they have several plate amps for subs that might fit right in or could be swapped internally. And if the KSW 15" sub amp might be the same. I will tell you that I've yet to see a KSP-amp for sale on ebay, and Ive had a saved search for a while now. My local shop fixed the dead amp first time, so I will probably use them again. I did not fully removed the amp but took the whole speaker in. IS there any trick or tip to removal as mine seem to be boxed in pretty good with wood.

Well, NOW I HAVE THE HUM i one speaker. Harry has no replacements. So, I am now in your boat.

That should work I got my amp fixed because I figured the value of the speakers really dropped without working sub amps, even though that should not be the case. Check with HarryO, you might get a new amp for the cost of another repair.

As part of a deal I got a pristine nak CD CDP-2a player and CR2 tape deck. Will a makamichi TA-2a (50wpc) stasis amp have sufficient power and headroom to run the Cornwalls in a 15X15 room? The other option is to power with a Marantz SR40002 or use the maantz as a pre-out and run them on a hafler DH200. Or should I start saving my pennies and look for a tube amp. If so, which one?

I was wrong, I don't think the tri-amp thing will work, as that is only for the drivers. But what I said about not running an LFE is worth trying, if you have a small room and a big sub like I do. There is a way to bypass it all together I believe. I was going to use my Hafler DH200 to power them. HarryO is the member, I think that his log on. Last time we taked (a week ago) he said he had one NOS, and one used amp. He checks all his equipment before selling and knows quite a bit.

That looks tempting..seems like a perfect match to the KSP. Have you seen it in person? Right now waiting for the CT125's to arrive. [*-)] With what I got for the dead K-77's ($65), and the BING discount it was less than $100 for the crites.

What about leaving the plates in and bi-amping the speakers-one amp to mid/hi, one to the bass. FYI, what I do is just run one wire to the speaker, with no LFE input at all. I let my SVS sub do the heavy lifting for really low frequencies. Spectrum Sound in Indy fxed my amp first time no problem for $130, but it'll take a while..... Also, where did those feet come from, are they made for the KSP-400

I think HarryO from Indy has some amps for these at a reasonable cost. My amp went out too but the fix wasn't bad. Tell em Jeff with the KSP-400s sent you.