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Donkeyshins

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Posts posted by Donkeyshins

    Help needed: KP250 DIY cabinet question

    in Klipsch Pro Audio

    Posted · Edited by Donkeyshins

    You might be better off using the horns in the middle and flank them with two eight ich woofers insted of the single twelve. Obviously you would need to change out the crossover to work this way. This way everything faces forward and sound is directed towards you. I have a KLF 20 single speaker that I am going to use for a center and that is my plan I am following.

     

    Unfortunately, there is insufficient space (width-wise) for this option.

     

    Imho, that would likely prove unsatisfactory.  The human voice (primary focus of center channel) frequency range begins at about 250Hz.  With the woofer pointing up or down, your will lose much of the fundamentals of human voice relative to the harmonics coming from mid-range and tweeter.  I would think it better to simply lay the 250 on its side, if it will fit.

     

    So the two ports on either side of the tweeter (see below) wouldn't pass these frequencies?

     

    IMG_0251.jpg

     

    -D

    Help needed: KP250 DIY cabinet question

    in Klipsch Pro Audio

    Posted

    I'm using a trio of KP250 speakers in my home theater and because of the limits of the room, I'm having to put the center channel speaker on it's side. Given that the speaker cabinet has been 'well loved', I was thinking about building a new cabinet for the speakers - one that is designed to fit into the space.

    My idea is to move the midrange, tweeter and ports to one of the side panels and have the woofer firing either out the top or bottom (the latter would require me to put feet on the 'bottom' of the speaker so the woofer would have room to move / radiate).  Essentially, the speaker would be face down (or face up) with the ports, tweeter and midrange firing out a side.  Given that the internal dimensions would remain the same and the porting would remain the same - are there any pitfalls (other than making sure that the woofer magnet doesn't interfere with the midrange compression driver) to be worried about?

    Unfortunately, I can't use an Academy center channel as (a) it isn't sensitive enough compared to the KP250, (B) it's too wide for the space even if it were a good match and © they're expensive as hell.

    Thanks in advance for any advice,

     

    -D

    Tube Amp or Pre-Amp

    in 2-Channel Home Audio

    Posted

    I've done all SS, all tube, tube pre / SS power amp, and SS pre / tube power amp. The preferred setup in my system was SS pre / tube power. At the lower signal levels that preamplifiers operate at, it is easier to tame noise in solid state than tube. In a power amp, you are working with much higher signal levels and as such, the signal drowns out the noise.

    -D

    K-107 / Heresy III

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted · Edited by Donkeyshins

    I wasn't attempting an HIII clone per se... just trying out parts I had available with a crossover I already had in place?

    I will be looking at other crossover orientations in the future to see if they like the K107/792 better though?

    Oddly enough, I did have several people say that the Cornscalla-wall would be good option for the Heresy but 33uF is still a little too large for the K53K and .62mH seems too small for the 4ohm K28? I need to look at the response pattern though...

    These values were supplied to be my Al K based upon some modeling he did based upon the K28 / K53Ti / K107 combo. Not sure if the K53Ti is able to go lower or not (it certainly can go higher, which is why a bandpass is necessary at the squawker / tweeter crossover).

    -D

    K-107 / Heresy III

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted · Edited by Donkeyshins

    Maybe we are talking about 2 different crossovers? Attached is the schematic I found for what was referred to as the ALKjr...

    I'm using the K28E so I went with a 1.3mH instead of the stated 2.5mH but if I were still using the stock K22's the 2.5mh should have been fine? Now the 40uF on the K53K is definitely a bit large (which could be what you are talking about) but the K53K has such a steep natural drop off using the 40uF wouldn't really so much change the crossover point as leave it somewhat ill protect from lower frequencies? In any case I used a smaller value.

    I really don't know why the K107/K792's doesn't like my Heresy's? All I know is this:

    HX + K76 = fine/great

    HX + K107/K792 = sibilant

    CWIII (w/K53K) + K107/K792 = fine/great

    CWIII (w/K53K) + K79 = a little too forward sounding

    Oh, I believe you also asked about padding? I tried a few different options but in the end the easiest was to just use the K76 motor on the on the K107/K792 horn...

    I'm gonna have to agree with the assessment that you have the totally wrong crossover for the Heresy III clone. The crossover I used (which sounds fantastic with the K792Ti, IMHO) is the Cornscala-Wall crossover with a couple of tweaks per the advice of Al K.:

    11329121295_fed8a51a3c_b.jpg

    Note: hook-up for the squawker to the autoformer should be 0 (+) and 2 (-) to give the proper -9dB padding for the K53Ti.

    Partslist is as follows:

    Quantity Item

    1 .62 mHy inductor wound of AWG #14 solid ($17.78) (x2) solen.ca

    1 .30 mHy inductor wound of AWG #16 Litz wire $9.72 (x2) solen.ca

    1 .20 mHy inductor wound of AWG #16 Litz wire $8.03 (x2) solen.ca

    1 33uF. +-5% Jantzen Crosscap $13.96 (x2) parts-express

    1 7.5uF. +-5% Solen "Fast cap" $4.19 (x2) solen.ca

    2 2.2uF. +-5% Jantzen Crosscap $2.30 (x2) parts-express

    1 10R 10W wirewound resistor (W23-10RJI) $1.77 (x2) mouser

    1 Klipsch T2A Auto-transformer from type AA network (or Universal Transformer #3619)

    Hope this helps!

    -D

    FS: Walnut Heresy II with factory risers

    in Garage Sale

    Posted · Edited by Donkeyshins

    SOLD

    I am selling my beloved Klipsch Heresy II (walnut oiled) with matching factory risers. These were built in 1990 or 1991 (hard to tell with the weird serial numbers used in those two years) and have the consecutive serial numbers 59620 and 59621. The crossovers were recapped in 2011 (Sonicaps + a non-polarized electrolytic), but the speakers are otherwise stock. They have been very well cared for, but are 20+ years old so there are slight signs of wear (mostly in the edge banding around the motor board). All seams are tight and the grilles are in very good shape.

    I am asking $450.00 for the speakers with the factory risers included. If you do not want the risers, I'll drop the price to $400.00. Local pickup (Puget Sound area) preferred as these would be extremely expensive to ship due to weight and size. If you are local and wish to audition them, this can be arranged.

    10478617553_4b2274fc70_b.jpg

    10478076145_8d1529ac4a_b.jpg

    10478091644_2851d9d819_b.jpg

    10478075125_56e203e005_b.jpg

    10478096004_69582edba2_b.jpg

    10478104546_ded066ec0d_b.jpg

    10478095244_57a5a8bd56_b.jpg

    -D

    The death of the home stereo system

    in 2-Channel Home Audio

    Posted

    Received an email alert from Amazon today for super deal on $5 albums, link follows, cannot get it to post as an actual link. http://www.amazon.com/gp/feature.html/ref=pe_58930_33006940_pe_supersubjectlink/?docId=1000371251 Went to the Amazon webpage, saw some interesting choices then noticed - they are all MP3! For $8 or $10 you can get the CDs, with the MP3......album. It was hard enough to transition from actual vinyl albums to CDs which were then christened albums, but MP3 albums? Sign of the times, but don't seem right.

    In the good news department, LP sales have increased 745% since 2008. Not bad for a 5-year trend.

    -D

    K-107 / Heresy III

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    This does raise a question for me: what's the difference between the K107 tweeter and the K792 w/ titanium diaphragm (if any)? They look extremely similar in magnet size / shape and the horn appears to have an identical Tractrix flare. Is the difference strictly that the original diaphragm in the K792 is treated fabric (or whatever they used) or do they have significantly different specs?

    -D

    K-107 / Heresy III

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    $300 per speaker, yes. It's actually a pretty good deal if you are looking to do the whole conversion at once. A lot of people don't set out to do the whole thing at once though... They might pick up a piece here and a piece there via eBay or craigslist or forum sales. I know I didn't set out to do an HIII conversion but end up with most of the pieces via the means I stated?

    Yeah, that's how I ended up acquiring all my HIII pieces. Great minds thing alike, huh? [;)]

    It should also be noted that the ALK networks are made out of substantially better components... Unless you build it yourself out of inferior pieces?

    If I go this route, I'll use similar components to Al K. (maybe different caps, and T2A autoformers instead of the UTC 3619, but the same value and type of inductors). DIY will save me around $150 (and ease the strain on my marriage).

    -D

    K-107 / Heresy III

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    No, the HIII does not use an autoformer... It uses a series of resistors to pad down the squawker and tweeter. Also, none of the HIII components can be used with a stock HII crossover properly. The K28 is 4 ohms not 8 like the K22/K24, the Ti diaphragm in the K53 doesn't drop off at 6K like the phenolic so a band pass is required and the K107/K792 has at least 3db more output than the K76. The result of using a stock HII network with these components would leave you with heavily reduced response between 400ish and 700ish Hz and you would have a pretty good spike after 6KHz... I have the K28 and K792 as well but decided not to bother with the K53Ti because it seemed to create more problems than it solved and I wanted to keep my build simple. I'm still not even totally sold on the K107/K792 either? I love the Ti diaphragm but the tractix horn isn't really so much better as different and the larger motor means it has to be padded down to match the other components. If you or any one else wanted to use those 3 components with out the stock HIII network I would say a variation of the ALK Universal is your best bet. It would give you the bandpass needed for the K53Ti, a better teeter circuit than stock and is easily built/bought/modified.

    Well - I can't afford the ALK Universal as it is $650 (heck, the Cornscala-Wall, which is probably more appropriate) is still $340. However, if someone has the schematic for either, I'm happy to build it myself.

    -D

    K-107 / Heresy III

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    If you figure out the Heresy III crossover schematic, please let me know as I'm in a similar situation (Heresy II, managed to get titanium diaphragms for the K53 squawkers, bought K28-E woofers and K-792-Ti tweeters - sounds decent now, but I'm sure it would be better with a properly designed crossover network).

    Thanks!

    -D

    p.s. Is it just me, or do the closeups of the HIII crossover indicate that they do NOT use an autotransformer?

    KP 115 Rebuild

    in Klipsch Pro Audio

    Posted

    Interested to see the outcome of this as well, as I have a KP-115 that I just pulled from my home theater (replaced it with an NHT 1259 DIY sub) for dereliction of duty. I'd love to find a use for this, but I've not been terribly happy with it in a home theater role (and I don't think it's good enough to replace the Hsu STF-2 in my hifi rig).

    -D

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