superedge88
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Posts posted by superedge88
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The acurus doesn't have balanced inputs, but the emotiva does.Thanks Youthman!
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I now have a pair of CF-4's and thusly finalized my left and right speakers for my bedroom theater. My bedroom theater receiver will always be the receiver that was displaced by a receiver upgrade in the main home theater. Currently I have a Denon 989 powering the CF-4's but fully realize that they would benefit from a pair of monoblock amplifiers. Here's the catch, the receiver/preamp that I will be using in the future has balanced outputs which are XLR. So I am looking for a pair of monoblock amplifiers that have both balanced and unbalanced inputs. I am looking for any suggestions that would be in the 200-300 watt into 8 ohms range and under 500 dollars each, I prefer used since there is typically much better value to be found. Any suggestions?
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I appreciate the kind words Moray.
For those that cringe at the thought of me using duratex on mint Oak, I don't blame you. All my furniture is black, I like black, more importantly my wife likes black, so one way or another I plan on having black CF-4's
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Thanks for the offer, but I am only wanting the CF-4's.Where are you located? I have a pair of CF-3 series 1 in Black. I may sell them. I am in Hammond, La.
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Duratex is not a spray paint. It is a rolled on product similar to what is used on professional audio gear (in fact I believe some klipsch pro audio gear might be painted with duratex or something very similar) I do realize that some do cringe at the thought, which is why I'm offering a trade. Below is a video demo
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I purchased a pair of version one CF-4's that have the oak finish and I
plan on using Duratex to paint them a tough textured black. I thought I
would ask if anyone has a black set that would want to trade for my
near mint Oak pair. Just thought I would ask since there might be
someone on the forum that has a black set that always wanted an oak set
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Unfortunately they are the oak finish which I am not too fond of, so I will be refinishing them, and from the wife's reaction I will be refinishing them SOON (she likes black or gray) They sound amazing, and will go very well in a larger master bedroom once we do the addition that we have planned. For now they are kinda packed in to a small master bedroom. For now they are part of the bedroom 2.1 theater just powered off the receiver (see sig) And they have plenty of power, but once we move them to a larger master bedroom I plan on powering them with a couple of Audiosource 5.3's.
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I have for sale my KG 5.2 speakers. They are about an 8 out of 10 cosmetically and sound perfect. These are black ash finish. Grills are in perfect condition. I will ship if need be. $250 or best offer.
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Picked up these speakers today, easily 10 out of 10. They're the 1st versions and sound insane. They displaced my KG 5.2's in my bedroom theater. My KG 5.2's will be up for sale shortly.
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Kits were about a grand last time I heard.
Try to find a subwoofer that has the frequency range, can be maximized with one channel of of an ep2500/4000, and has equal output for a better price.
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These kits are getting rave reviews, very similar
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/waveguide-speaker-kits/seos-deltalite-kit.html
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Danley dts-10, hard to beat it.
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http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=16113&start=45Still not good below tuning, and no point giving lots of power below 17 Hz or not, better to filter it out.
4th post from the top of the page. This has been hashed over plenty at the BF site.
I simply don't see the point in throwing gobs of power at a sub below tune, as well as asking an amplifier to go for broke where the sub is rolling off.
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I agree psg.
once budget allows I will be switching to an Inuke dsp amp and repurposing the behringer 2500 I have on my tht.
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With how powerful the fortes are in the low end I would only ask the klh to fill in below 60 hertz. You'll be much happier once you can replace the klh.
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Oops, didn't see that this thread had so many replies. My apologies, I worded my post poorly, I was referring to the qsc's absence of passive crossover and utilization of active crossover.
There is still a crossover at play, it's just in a different position in the chain.Getting into speakers that have no crossovers is even more ideal in my opinion, which is what I did by getting active speakers (qsc kw-122's)
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Getting into speakers that have no crossovers is even more ideal in my opinion, which is what I did by getting active speakers (qsc kw-122's)
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You can just re glue in most cases. I had an issue with my first pair, simply took out woofers, gooped Pl premium evenly on the interior seams and let dry for a day, worked perfectly.
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Then easiest option is simply rewiring using a switch and relays and bypassing the pwm, not knowing exactly the reason and exact goal makes things difficult.
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A 30 amp relay with the existing wire with DC and signal voltage as the trigger and the relay feeding battery voltage to the bulb.
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A simple relay is all that is needed then, don't over complicate with trying to"filter"out signal.
What are you trying to accomplish?
I'm trying to disable a daytime running light. Why is a whole different story for another thread. Here's how the system works. There's 1 power wire that goes to the low beam bulb. A module puts battery voltage on that wire when low beams are called for. During the daylight hours, that same wire has a PWM signal to dim the bulbs. I know a way to make that wire have battery voltage at all times if I want, but I haven't figured out a way to eliminate the PWM voltage while still letting normal battery voltage through.
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Is that silicone around the edge of the woofer? If the driver is not getting a perfect seal against the motor board the sub will not get to proper volume.
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It doesn't have to sit off the corner diagonally but can run parallel to one wall while being aimed at another with an 18"gap between the horn mouth and the wall.ok....so to check on the woofer I need to take off the access panel right? Assuming thats good... how do I check for air leaks on the panel? I seriously doubt there are leaks present but you never know. I had an air leak on one of my A5's but that caused port chuffing not less volume. I will try moving it around the room to see if that changes anything as well. Unfortunately if the current placement turns out to be the issue then it will have to go. Either to the bedroom or my friend. My HT only has the one spot for it. Honestly putting a cabinet that is 36x36x24 off the corner 18 inches basically precludes it use in all but the largest of HT's.
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In that size room the tuba should be rocking your face off. Have you tried different placement options? Try different corners of the room with the sub facing into the corner at 18". Also check for air leaks on the access panel, and check to make sure that the woofer hasn't come loose In the enclosure/lost it's seal.
Amplifier help please
in Home Theater
Posted
Edited first post to show that budget is 500 dollars per amplifier.