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Albatross

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  1. I decided to do it right and use a piece of 3/4 inch Baltic birch, instead of the table that is only 1/2". The rigidity of the ply should help cancel vibrations from the horn. I received the MiniDSP this morning too, so I am am hoping for a finished project by Christmas.
  2. I want to talk about speaker damping for those that want to deaden vibrations. Months ago, I took some modelng clay and damped the mid and tweeter horns, and the baskets of the woofers. I fully covered all of these. Although, I was hoping for great sonic results, the complete damping of these took away the magic of the speakers. I took all of the clay off and the liveliness came back. One of the reasons I love the Klipsch Heritage line is their dynamics (both micro and macro). They seem to have a lively and effortless quality. I remember my first experience with over damping when I went to listen to a high end system consisting of Magnepan 3.6s and Krell gear. The room was treated to the maximum, and it took away some of the magic I know the Maggies can provide. I used to sell them, so know these speakers well. My suggestion is to do your internal and external dampening in stages, just covering parts of the speaker element and/or room. You can always add more.
  3. Happy that you chimed in Claude. I've thoroughly enjoyed your love for audio and DIY on this and other forums. I took the plunge after Mustang's comment and have purchased both a MiniDSP HD and a Crown XLS1002 (with active crossover built in). So the Crown will power the bass and cut off around 500 Hz, the EV DH1A (8 ohm nominal/6 ohm min) with the ZXPC 11" x 17" will be powered with my Reisong A10 tube amp (6 Watts, not modified yet) and because I need another amp for the tweeter, my temporary fix is the Aiyima A04 (sans your mods, but that will happen). Really, I want my mids and highs to be running at close to full sensitivity off the Reisong, with a passive crossover there. Six watts into 107 db should have the Reisong singing. I'll need to understand more about the 3619 autoformer, while I fine tune my positions for cut off with the MiniDSP. Dean gave me an idea for the settings on my crossover before I decided use an amp on the woofer, and have the mids and highs performing at a much higher sensitivity. In regard to your comment, I think I remember that a swamping resistor makes everything easier for the amplifier too, but I might be mistaken (maybe that's a zoebel network, or maybe both of these do that). You suggested a natural rolloff of the DH1A at 3k in one of your posts? Will that change with the horn I'm using? and does that mean no low pass on the DH1A? Also, If the ZXPC horn doesn't do the job, I'll look for a CD horn, after your comment, (although I don't think I can get away with the size of one of those 402s). Thank for your input! and thanks for your explorer's spirit; you have brought me to this DIY playground. I'll post pictures and critiques, once I'm up and running.
  4. Maybe a noob question, but if I run a solid state amp on the woofers (sensitivity is 96 db) without a passive crossover and a tube amp on the above midrange (108db to 115 db depending on the horn) and tweeters (107 db) being matched up with a passive crossover, can I run a MiniDSP 2/4 HD between the woofer amp and midrange/tweeter amp, and boost the gain of the woofer amp, so the mids and highs are running near their lowest native sensitivity of 107 db? Paul Klipsch was all about sensitivity, and it would make my little 6 watt tube amp seem much more powerful. Thanks in advance for any insight!
  5. Got my LMAHL lenses from David A. this morning. I received the package very quickly, and the craftsmanship is impeccable. Next up on my list is to create the baffle. I had some help from another forum participant, who showed me his minimalist baffle via private message. Thanks to both of you!
  6. Thanks! I'm excited for these Cornscalas to reach fruition. I ordered the LMAHL lenses today for my B&C DE10 tweeters, and found a nice cherry table in the Craigslist free area to cut the front part of my top-hats with. The picture below shows the horns sitting on top of the back of the table to get my concept figured out for cutting. With the open baffle midrange drivers, I'm not sure if I should cut as much wood off the sides as possible (minimalist approach, with just a few inches around the driver), or if horns like some baffle area to reflect on. I know with full range open baffles, the wider baffles are very important to the sound quality. My background is with dynamic speakers, where you want to keep the excess wood around the drivers to a minimum (Thiel for example). With the tweeter, I'll have poles in the back, on either side of the squawker horns so I can mount and time align the tweeter magnets with the squawker magnets. Once up and running, I'll take pictures, and give an early and later critique on them.
  7. Thanks Brice! If I'm not mistaken, the swamping resistor goes on 0 and 5, and the value can vary. I think it would also change the other caps values. I've also seen external zobel networks that do similar things with impedances, but my knowledge is very remedial on both these things. I'm using a Reisong A10, single ended, EL34 amp, and am enjoying the sound of this inexpensive, but well reviewed integrated amp. I am thinking of putting one of the new Crown XLS series on the K33, since it has an active crossover, and letting the 6 watts of the tube amp be used with just the squawker and tweeter. There are plenty of mods on can do on this tube amp, but right away I will add some Russian paper in oil caps to it, and make it triode. I put Russian PIOs in my Cornwall crossover with good results.
  8. I'm noticing every thing has halved, as the impedance was halved. Could you explain what the 5uF cap (soon to be 2.5) does in this system? I see that it is connected from the positive input, so am wondering if it also affects the tweeter/midrange values, since I will changing that cap as well? I own a low powered tube amp. Should I consider a swamping resistor?
  9. Good to know. I don't see that happening any time soon. Time to build the top-hat, and order the LMAHLs! 🙏
  10. Thank you very much Dean! I appreciate this! There is part of me that wants to understand the process, but I can now move on, however, to the things that I can understand more readily.
  11. After researching the last few months, I believe that the only wild card in the equation is the ZXPC horn. It looks like Claude likes a Constant directivity horns with the DH1A, but this will be my starting point.
  12. Deang, here is the information you asked for in the other thread. I have the DH1A (8 ohm nominal/ 6 ohm min) version DH1A, DH1A-16.pdf
  13. DaveA's Fabulous New Improved Super Tweeters 2.0 I have been following this site since 2007, and have fully enjoyed your insights on all things Klipsch. I have bought a pair of Cornwall I’s that I’d like to make into Cornscalas. I have purchased a Crites 500/5000 Hz crossover for modification, and after following Claude, I became enamored with the idea of using EV DH1A’s (6 ohm) for the squawkers with a ZXPC 11” x 17” (which I have purchased), and the B&C DE10’s with the LMAHL from Dave A (not yet purchased). The squawkers, tweeters, and crossover will be configured in an open baffle, time aligned, top hat with one of the wire runs from the external crossover feeding the K33 woofer inside the box. I’ve held off on buying the LMAHLs from Dave A. For about 8 months now because I can’t figure out my crossover. I’m new to mods, and I think I have gotten over my head in the area of crossovers using the auto former (the 3619, similar to the T2A, but with more fine tuning). I’ve read many threads on using these autoformers, but realize my understanding is limited still. I understand the attenuation aspect, but only for similar impedances. The difficulty lies in the fact that the desired EV DH1A according to Claude is the 6 ohm one (8 ohm nominal), but the crossover is set up for the Atlas which is 16 Ohm. There is a 16 ohm version, but Clyde feels the 6 ohm sounds better, and I own it. I am not sure how the impedance difference effects my choice of taps on the 3619, or the capacitor change. Here is djk’s answer: "I guess all I am sure of is that this is a 6 ohm driver, not the 16 ohm driver. That means it's the 8Ω version, move it down one tap on the crossover and all should be well. “ He was talking about the T2A, but I believe moving mine from tap 2 to tap 1 will work on the 3619? I do have enough know how to match the B&C DE10 with the DH1A since they have the same impedance as the tweeters being replaced. I hear that I will use the natural roll off of the DH1A between 3k and 4k, and high pass the tweeter with a capacitor around 4.7uF. I am asking for help in getting this project up and running. Could somebody help me understand how the auto former works when the impedance is changed too, and then how does that affect the capacitor? or is there a thread on the subject that will help me? Do I need a MiniDSP and mic, or can I get close without out it? Once I get this information I will get the LMALs and write a critique on the results. Much thanks to any and all help!
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