JL Sargent
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Posts posted by JL Sargent
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We use a 19ply 28mm thick plywood at work. It just a wee bit stronger than these mentioned.[
]Certainly overkill for speaker fab.
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I was thinking about a resistance test along the lines of mechanical connections without vs with. Not a conductivity test of the paste alone.
Interesting: Not one scientific test found to verify anything about the stuff. Reminds me of a speaker horn without any technical data. Does anybody really know what it will do.
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Could be that your battery's gases cooked the stuff. How did you test resistance?
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If your speakers are horns then tubes are hard to beat IMHO. Maybe you could find a nice tube receiver or tube integrated amp?
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I agree with your observation about volume levels in relation to squawker levels. Too bad we couldn't make these adjustments from a remote control while sitting in our listening chairs!
Greg
I kinda solved for this problem by accident. Using an active crossover in 2way config. with a little 5watt tube SET for the squawkers and a 60watt SS for the woofers. The relationship between the squawkers and woofers seems to stay consistent throughout the volume range. I did not appreciate that until I went with passives. Without an active crossover it can sound good but now there seems to be a sweet spot in the volume where the top is perfectly attenuated. Im my case as the volume increases so does the squawkers lack of attenuation.
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To followup on this:
I found that around 750 crossover and 10 db of attenuation on the horns really sounded the best to me. I then found a couple of JBL 3110a crossovers that matched that spec. very closely with a 800hz crossover and available 10db attenuation on the horn. Swapped the active out and the passive in. Sounds great. Thanks to everybody that helped me get this going.
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I thought PWK offered a center channel speaker. Did it later become the Cornwall?
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Yes, thats the corrrect way to hook it up.
If your Maggie has single ended 6BQ5 tubes for the output its probably about 5 watts per.
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Anyone familiar with this organ, or know where a tube schematic might be found ?
Thanks
Hi, you need to check out the "hammond zone" forum at Yahoo Groups.
All kinds of great help there and those schematics may be available.
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With emergency air on the trailer you can adjust the brakes for "no braking" and move it around anytime no problem. The slack adjuster on those usually takes a 9/16" socket for adjustment. Now you could take a torch and cut the landing legs and wheel hardware out from under it. Then drag it on a nice level spot, paint it, and fabricate a neat pitched roof over it. Eureka, now you have a barn!
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How in the world to these guys "survive" doing this? Are there folks that will actually go along with these scams? If we all replied and took him up on the offer and simply never sent anything then maybe they would stop casting the nets.
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Just a little tap with a pencil will tell you.
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K-horns are high efficiency speakers. They are very sensitive speakers. If you have a TV signal hooked up to your sound system that could cause a hum.
It could also be other things. Search the forum for "hum" and I'm sure all kinds of great ideas for hunting it down will come your way.
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One problem you can have with these hooked up to a computer or Ipod like device is having the speaker volume all the way up but the computer volume turned down. I would suggest checking that first, then check all connections.
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Lots of talk about 2" drivers and Gregs horns here.
http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/116842.aspx
Im using some JBL 2441 drivers with Community horns.
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Supposedly 2" drivers have 1/10 the distortion. They appear to have a much wider frequency range than 1" drivers. I have 2" drivers in two way speakers right now that I'm enjoying. Im sure there are other considerations that I'm not aware of.
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Those do look pretty darn good and I bet they do sound good too. The vertical midhorn is kinda goofy but I could get over that with good vibrations.
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It would be interesting to see those two horns laid side by side. I wonder how weldable that horn material is.
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Great job on the speakers CB. Now if you'll just get those plaques level.
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DCR is usally the DC resistance in ohms. As for matching or not, I cannot help.
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A pair of 1.4" horns ended yesterday on Ebay. I suggested going from 1.4 to 2" not down to 1". Although I'm suprised that going down to a 1" horn can "hurt" the driver? I wonder how?
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Crazy thing: I was married to a twin years ago. Kept asking her to invite her sister over....... She is long gone now. Guess I'm pretty much a 2 way guy.
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Wow so the K-55's with Atlas horn are near as good as the JBL 2441's .I have noticed it hard to find a driver that has the db below 500Hz like the K-55's.
No, I said the two Atlas drivers were similar sounding. The 2441 is in another league and "puts the singer in the room with you"..
Those 1.4" horns do show up on Ebay sometimes too. I noticed a 1.4" to 2" adapter on their the other day so that would be another way to skin the cat.
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Right here at Klipsch's Garage Sale section is a great place to find parts for your project. There's lots to learn, parts to collect, and construction methods to consider. Several folks here have built em. There are even a couple of different versions of plans.
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what does this mean?
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Or maybe they feel the high end sound is fatigued? Or in other words that the speakers are stressed trying to reproduce the top end?