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billybobg

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Posts posted by billybobg

  1. For wire, I'd read this first and make my a decision.

    http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

    While I agree with the author, I often find that wire of the guage that I use is cheaper in the form of a roll of speaker wire than say lamp wire of the same guage. Monster cable is the exception as it is priced high for the same guage. YMMV.

    As for the sub wire. Some subs come with a wire for the sub as it has plugs special to sub woofer connection. I used a wire that came with my sub and found it easily picked up noise from a.c. cords that it crossed over. I ended up getting a shielded wire from Blue Jeans.

  2. I took the word glass literally, not linking it to fiber glass. Thanks.

    Does anyone have a good pic of the indented area on the bass bin where the red and black connections are and where the bass bin can be gripped to pick up? I have two tops and will probably build two bass bins. Also, I understand that the aluminum corner protectors for the angled top portions are not available. Is there a possible market for these should they be recreated. My tops did not come with them. I suspect they never had them as they were rounded and I didn't see any holes where screws would have held aluminum in place.

  3. Even with the price reductions of late, I still say that LSI splits garner $250 per box ($1000 per pair of matching LF/HF cabinets) in working condition, good clean ones with trim and black glass considerably more. I've still seen these going for $1400-$1500 per set.

    Where is the black glass on the LSIs?

  4. I have two early 80s La Scalas that I've carried around since I bought them new. I just completed building a center "short" La Scala for use as the center channel. The shorty has some mix and match in it, so its close but not a short clone. I acquired a couple of La Scala tops awhile back and thought of using them as my rear surrounds and would mount them high. I am contemplating building some bass bins to go with the tops, but would leave them floor standing. My thoughts are that the bass bins would not be as directional as the tops and leaving them at floor level would not be a big deal, plus they would not be as awkward or space consumming as mounting them high.

    I do have a single Academy that I could try to match up with another and use them as the surrounds. The cost wouldn't be that different as the cost of a single Academy would be about the same as the cost of a couple of woofers that would go into the bass bins.

    Appreciate some feed back.

    Thanks,

    bob

  5. Bob, you spoke accurately! I wish I'd thought of this before...but to draw an analogy... the Belle has a 'truncated nose' (or cone as I called it) so Who... are you suggesting that the chopping off of the nose of the bass bin to make the Belle is a major change?

    Actuallty, I'm not that smart[^o)], but in retrospect I could have kept the flare angle closer to the orginal LaScala had I thought of that. It might be a consideration if I find my solution to be a poor adaptation. [8-|] I just tried to keep the volume close to the original. It does make a lot of sense that the flare angle is important. I'm even wondering now if the back ramps that I elongated and reduced the angle to end at the side of the bass bin might now be in question. I'm waiting for some response on my question on paralleling or putting in series two tweeters in the cabinet using a stock AA crossover to proceed with more wood cutting.

    bob

  6. Well I do like to pretend I know how to use the tools in my garage. Some stuff works, some not[:S] Life is always an experiment on some level.

    The ONLY reason I even consider of moding a LaScala is the height issue for use as a center channel. My ear is not as decerning as others, so unless there is an obvious issue when I get it finished and pluged in I will probably be happy. However, I still would like to hear from others on the subject of two tweeters.

  7. I'm building a center channel shortened Lascala. In order to shorten the speaker, one step to shortening is to move the tweeter to the side of the squawker. I've thought of adding a second tweeter to have one on each side of the squawker. I have a AA crossover to drive them.

    My question is: Can I run them both off the crossover in parallel or series? Seems that is series they would carry the same current and therefore be balance, but the 12 plus ohms may prevent sufficient current to drive the tweeters and in parellel they may pull too much current. What other aspects am I not considering.

    Your inputs are appreciated.

  8. Question: Is it the point of the nose or simply the area behind the woofer? What if instead, the 'cone' was oval? rectangular? BUT... had the same area. I thought the area was the key, not the shape?

    What do you mean by area around the woofer?

    What matters in the sealed chamber behind the woofer is the volume of trapped air. What matters as the sound wraps around the back towards the front is the area expansion rate.

    However, you can't change the angle of the walls without affecting the polar response...and you can't just change one wall without affecting the area expansion.

    Btw, changing the polar response is also going to change the frequency response because now the same amount of energy is being sprayed over a different area. If the polars get wider, then you measure less SPL on-axis and more SPL off-axis. If the polars get narrower, then you measure more SPL on-axis and less SPL off-axis.

    Mike,

    Not wanting to speak for Coytee, I believe he was
    talking 'volume' not area, I very much appreciated your response as I delved into this area by shortening and widening a bass bin in order to fit under a yet to be built home screen. I did consider volume, but didn't expect that the angle of the v-shape would have a huge effect on the sound. While I thought about possible impacts, I had no idea on how to compensate, so I am proceeding with the build. Maybe this comes under the heading of soon to be 'Heading to the Woodpile". As it's going to be a center channel, perhaps it will not be a 'noticable' issue. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

    Thanks,

    bob

  9. Hey bobdog,

    Being kinda old, I didn't immediately put your name to the Academy you sold me a year or so ago. Good to hear you're moving up. I liked your setup a lot and know that your home theatre will be up to your high standards. As I posted earlier, I decided against the Academy as a center based in part on your input and secondly based on me getting a new tablesaw that is allowing me to pretty much build what I want and I've built the earlier mentioned "LaSquata" box in order to get the center channel low enough to fit the screen size I want. Still got a few components to procure before it is finished Anyway, good to hear you're moving up.

    bob

  10. Chris,

    Thanks for the detailed response. As things usually go,
    this has sparked a few more questions that spring from my first attempts
    to build a speaker.

    I'm building what I'm calling a LaSquata.
    I'm probably not the first to do so, but its my attempt to have an
    equivalent center channel speaker for my LaScala mains. I've reduced
    the heighth by widening the bass bin, keeping the volume pretty much
    constant and using used and new components. I'll have a Crites woofer, a
    used K-77 tweeter, a new K-401 horn and probably a Crite's crossover
    and midrange dirver. In order to get the cabinet short enough, I'm
    planning on moving the tweeter to the side of the midrange. Having read
    your response, I'm a bit worried that the quality of sound may not be
    what I hoped for based on the movement of the tweeter. I believe I'll
    have room to place the tweeter horn horizontal, so I believe this may
    minimize the issues, but look to you for your insight.


    bob

  11. I have two questions for Cask05. At the speed of sound, would you really hear a difference in the arrival of the different sound from the speaker? Also, I understood (but I'm a bit new to this) that part of the bass response for the LaScala comes from the relationship of the speaker to the floor. As I've seen LaScalas hanging from the ceilings of clubs, I've often wondered about this descrepancy between my understanding and what is reality.

    Thanks in advance,

    bob

  12. I'm selling my LaScalas because they aren't right for me right now in this house.

    Hey space cowboy, if you can possibly hold onto the LSs I would. I carried mine around for 25 years before I was able to purchase a home large enough to use them in again. I've stored them in my kid's playroom (ouch!!!), neighbor's basement (their cat loved to sleep in them???) and now I am building a HT around them (yes pics will follow the progress). I am living with a beautiful woman who has a very high WAF, but I've staked out the basement rec room as my territory. I currently do have a modest Klipsch Home Theatre built around the Quintet III speakers I picked up on ebay. Talk about not being up to Heritage Standard[:(] I replaced a nice set of other branded speakers that I gave to my son in order to keep the WAF at a very high level when I introduced a shop built entertainment center into the upstairs den area. (Yeah, I'd love to post pics of that too, I'm pretty proud of it but I'm a work now and don't have access). Bottom line: If you can hold onto the LSs you may save yourself some future cash when you're in a better position and for now you still can be a proud owner of a Klipsch HT.

    best,

    billybob

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