bonedoctor

Anybody have a source for replacement speakers gaskets for the Heresy II? I need replacement gaskets for the woofer and the mid range horn. These are the thin gaskets that seal the speakers against the openings in the motorboard.

Anybody have a source for replacement speakers gaskets for the Heresy II? I need replacement gaskets for the woofer and the mid range horn.

They seem to sound okay. I haven't had them running together for a bit. Been messing around with the Cornwalls. Was playing around and had one channel hooked up to the Heresy with the C crossover and the other channel on an RF-7.

Okay, I get some pics posted next week. I did remember one was micamold radio. One cap is turned away from me and I can't see the stamping. What's weird is that the have clearly different caps from each other and the Heresy B caps look like the Cornwall's B caps, but with one having a jumper wire.

Okay, so now I had to open the other Heresy cabinet. Very interesting. It has the same speaker components, but a Type C crossover! So I looked at the type B from the other Heresy and compared to the 72 Cornwalls. One cap on the B from the Heresy has three connections, with two bridged together with a small jumper wire. The Cornwall B also has the cap with three connections, but with three sep wires. And I just noticed the serial numbers are very slightly nonconsectutive. One is 9M683 and one is 9M686. Gotta love these old things!

Yes, I thought it was commonly an E crossover, too, but the one speaker I opened is clearly labelled 'B'. It has a K-22E woofer, a shorter K-22V mid and a K-77 tweeter. Everything appears to be original and I don't think anyone had been inside the cabinet before. The caps on the odd B crossover aren't upright like those shown in the pics above. Rather, they are fat silver boxes laid flat and are shaped like a Klondike bar, mostly block shaped. The crossovers in the 72 Cornwalls are B with smaller block shaped caps laying flat. Yes, I'll post some pics soon. The 72 Cornwalls are sweet. Oiled walnut with the pie logos and brown grill cloth. They are the vertical models, too, with mint labels and the orientation labels. They also have what appear to be factory risers. I always enjoy peeking inside these things. The 72s got new Crites Crossovers and CT125tweeters since the fragile originals were both out.

Got a really nice pair of 1974 Heresy speakers recently. Nice pie logos, perfect grills, sound nice. I took off the back to look inside. Probably the last guy to see inside was the guy who put the back panel on in '74. So I check out the crossover and it's a type B style like my mint '72 Cornwalls. Was this the commonly used cross over?

While I'm not 100% familiar with your Denon model, I figure it offers similar or same features as mine whn it comes to zones. Yes, you could have the same CD playing in both zones, the 'main' zone and 'zone 1'. You set the main volume to what you want, then select zone 1 and set its volume independently. Since you can have seperate sources for each zone, if you have two devices that can play CDs, e.g., a dvd player and a CD player, you could have two different CDs playing, each at its own volume.

The Sonance 4 speaker selector box is just a way to multiply the output. It takes the single pair of zone 2 outputs and gives you four outputs, but they all play the same source and are controlled by zone two volume. Sonance does make a six output model and also ones that have individual volume controls for each pair. I suppose it's possible to have a 4 pair box wired into each of the four zones my denon offers, therefore having a 16little pair network, all individually selectable and even possibly with volume control. Couldn't obviously run them all or very many at same time to avoid overloading and overheating the amp.

Thanks for the compliment. I have a 9.1 set up and all the surround speakers are wired directly to the denon receiver through dedicated speaker outputs. I have four other pairs of speakers in ceiling that are connected to the Sonance four selector box and the box is then wired into Zone 2. With this Denon, I can play the surround system with one source and control its volume while playing a seperate source through the Sonance box and control it volume with the zone 2 volume control on the receiver. You can select thee source and voluume for zone 2. One little quirk is that if I set my system to 9.1, it borrows the zone 2 amplifier to run the front height/width speakers, so you can't run the surround system on 9.1 and listen to any of the zone 2 speakers, not that you'd probably ever do that. It had me stumped when I wanted to listen to a zone 2 speaker and it didn't work. Took me a while to figure out that I had to reassign the amp to zone 2, no biggie, just a little step made easy by the on screen denon menu.

Oh, seem to remember that they supply a paper template, but it isn't stiff enough to use to position on the ceiling to chose a good position, so I used the cardboard piece used as packing. If I remember, it's the same size as the paper template, but holds its shape on the ceiling, can put the nail through its cnter, through the ceiling, then put the cardboard template over the nail tip like a record on a turntable when in the attic, then trace around it. Be sure to trim off the little square piece from the template so that it's a circle and so your helper doesn't trace around the extra piece and, gasp, cut a notch out of the circular hole!

Yes, I had seen those THX speakers for that price on eBay. I bought a pair of mine from eBay, seems like for $700the something a while back. The killer deal I got on the first pair was from Vann's back in late 2008: I almost thought it was a misprint.....they had them for $299 or $399, cant remember, apiece! And free shipping. I only bought one pair. I think you'll be happy with their performance and uncluttered look. I have the blown in cellulose insulation and just spread it back around the speakers when done since they're sealed enclosures. Get a new drywall saw, one of those black, fat- handled Stanley ones (Fat Max), and the cut will be super simple and neat. Use a black Sharpie to trace around the template and stay right on the line so that the hole isn't much bigger than the speaker. You want it to just slip through the hole. You'll be surprised how much drywall dust will be in the box and not all over you, in your eyes, and all over everything else.

We have some similar equipment, e.g., RF-7s, RC-64, the thx in ceiling speakers, so I think you'll like the sound. Somewhere in the 'show us your home theater' forum are some pics of my setup, complete with the thx speakers and Svs sub. Search for my user name. Yes, cutting the holes is a little work and some anxiety, but if you double check your position and use the nail trick, you can't go wrong since it will be obvious if there's a positioning problem when you locate the nail in the attic. You can move the template a little to adjust if needed because the old nail hole will be in the circular pieece cut out. Trying to cut from below is difficult and super messy, get covered with drywall dust, it goes everywhere. I did the first two the hard way but didn't have a helper. All the other ceiling speakers I did the easy way with helper holding wide box against ceiling. If you have a wide board to put across the two joists such that you can kneel and the hole you're cutting is at you knees, it'll also be easier. Clear a wide area of insulation. When you finish cutting, have the person remain holding the box and you sweep the cuttings from above through the hole and into the box. It's almost completely mess free. I think you'll like the thx ceiling speakers. They look really big, but when installd you just see a nice neat, large grill and it sure solves the cluttered look. About all you see with my system are the fronts, the center, and way over in the corner, the SVS sub. About the sub, it sounds great and the cyclinder shape fits nicely into a corner. You really don't notice it from the viewing position (I have a very large room), but you sure hear it and feel it!

I've got six of these installed in my ceiling. They are big and at first you wonder how the drywall will support them, but it's mostly just anxiety. They have several ears that rotate out and squeeze the drywall, so they spread out the load nicely. The biggest problem is getting over the anxiety of making some big round holes in your ceiling, b ut once you cut the first one and install those nice speakers, you'll quickly forget. I have access to my entire ceiling, so here's my installation procedure. I didn't use any rings or mounting reinforcement, just the ears on the speaker. No problems. The speakers come with a cardboard template for cutting. Working in the room, I used a stud finder and marked the edges with blue painter tape. Using the cardboard templates, I stuck them to the ceining with doubl stick tape or the blue painter tape. I positioned the template equally spaced between the studs I marked with blue tape and stuck it to ceiling. This let me try various positions on ceiling, move front to back or over between next studs, try out different positions. When happy with my position and making sure I was spaced between the studs using tud finer, I double checked position of the studs. It's easier to cut the holes from the attic side if you have access. A little trick will make it far less messy since you cut a long line doing the circular cutout. So back to the template stuck on the ceiling.....how to transfer its position to the other side of the ceiling? Well, I took a nail and put it through the center of the circular template, through the drywall, and then removed the template. Go in the attic, clear away the insulation and find the nail. I used nearby landmarks to quickly find the nail. Place the template center hole over the nail point which exactly locats the template above whn you marked below and draw a line around it (I trimmed off the tab on the template). Here's the cutting trick to eliminate the drywall dust mess......have a helper on a ladder below hold a box up to the ceiling that will cover the hole. Using a drywall saw, punch the saw through on the line you drew and begin sawing around the circle. All the dust falls into the box held against the ceiling by your helper and when you almost complete cutting the circle, grab the nail to support th circular piece and complete the cut. You don't want the large circle to fall and maybe tear the paper on you ceiling. Holding the nail, finish the cut and then let the circle drop into the box. You'll have a neat, albeit large, hole cut and zero mess. Install the speakers from below. Stand on the ladder and slip the speakers through the hole. They really aren't too difficult to hold up in the hole while you screw the ears down tight. Once you get two or three tighened, you don't have to hold the speaker. You can leave them slightly loose and rotate the speaker how you want, then tighgen all up. It's very secure and didn't need any additional support, brakets, etc. Hope this helps.

I like it. I haven't tried the far wide speakers as my setup already has the mains about 18 ft apart. I do think with my arrangement, the height channels really do add to the 'wall of sound'. Then again, I got lucky and have a large room that probably benefits from height channels. My thought is that as the room gets smaller, the extra speakers (whether height or width channels) start to bunch up and the effect diminishes. I could imagine a scenario where all the speakers are so relatively close together that it doesn't really add much. But in my case, I've got two big ol' speakers that are not only 10 above, but also slightly out wider than the mains in a big room, so I do notice an expansion of the front sound stage. To my understanding, when the height speakers are producing sound, the rear surrounds do not. Sometimes I'm aware that the heights are producing sound and every now and then, I'll notice the rears producing sound, but I've read that sound coming from the front of us is perceived better than sound coming from the rear. I usually run the receiver in 'multi channel input + Dolby PLIIz" mode, although Audyssey doesn't function in that mode. To get Audyssey to kick in, the receiver has to be in Dolby PLIIx mode.