Boomzilla

I just scored a pair of Cornwall IIIs, but the veneer has corner damage and some scratches that I'll have to repair. My question is: What finish is Klipsch using now on their Heritage speakers? It used to be either paint or tung oil, but today, might it be polyurethane or something else? It will be critical once I've repaired the veneer to "finish it into" the existing finish. A misstep just makes a bigger mess. I can test several finishes on inconspicuous areas of the speaker, but if one of youse guys KNOWS (as opposed to guessing) it would be very helpful. Thanks - Boomzilla

I've a pair of mid 1980s La Scalas WITH a brand new set of Bob Crites' AL-3 crossovers (worth $365 plus shipping by themselves). I'd want $1,000 cash plus shipping or best offer. These cabinets were in poor condition, so they have been covered in oak vinyl flooring planks. The front grille is double-knit polyester over a secured (and removable) frame. All drivers are original and work perfectly. The crossovers, as mentioned are new. For the purchase price, you ALSO get a spare pair of K-77 tweeters in working condition! The spare K-77s have the round Alinco magnets. You could buy these speakers, sell the parts on eBay, and make a profit! Local pickup is acceptable, but you may not audition them because my wife does not care to have strangers in our house. Photos below:

Type AL if I recall.

Alas - I sold my originals on eBay to capitalize the new ones. Although the sound is definitely "different" with the Crites crossovers, I wouldn't say that it's bad at all. With my specific amplifiers (what they are doesn't make any difference because nobody else will have the same ones and the sound issue may be specific to mine), I preferred the sound with the original crossovers. If I go to solid-state amplification, then the Crites crossovers sound MUCH better, IMHO. My options, at this point, may be two: Buy some more original Klipsch crossovers in hopes of restoring the magic or else go to solid state amplification, and just enjoy the sound. Since the second option is easy to try out (I'll keep the tube amps until I'm sure), I'll play around with some nice transistor amps & see how I like. Thanks for the feedback - Boomzilla

I got my La Scalas (1982 vintage) via Craigslist. Along with the speakers came a pair of vacuum tube monoblock amplifiers. With the tube amps, the La Scalas produced the very best sound I'd ever heard. Not being satisfied with perfection, I opted to look for "upgrades." Being wary of the vintage crossovers, I got in touch with Mr. Crites for replacements. The first recommendation, based on the fact that I don't play my speakers very loudly, was the Crites Type A crossover. I ordered a pair and installed them. The speakers sounded good, but not as good as with the original crossovers. I opted to e-Bay the type A's and try out (again at Mr. Crites' recommendation) his Type AL3 crossovers. Mr. Crites specifically said (and I quote from his e-mail): "Most people do not like the sound of the AL crossover, but if you do, then staying with the AL line of crossover with the AL-3 may be what you want. The main problem with the AL is that it cut back the midrange too much. The AL-3 allows the midrange to go back closer to the way it was in the A and AA crossovers that came before the AL. So, if you like the midrange and tweeter performance of the A, then going to the AL-3 would keep that and give you a bass to midrange transition like the AL." I installed the AL3 crossovers, and immediately had a "presence bloom." The speakers (still with tube amplification) now had singers "in the room with you." The effect was frequency-specific and, I believe, an artifact of the tube amps that was previously hidden by the antique crossovers. With solid-state amplification and the Crites crossovers, the sound was balanced. With the tube amps, not so much so. Apparently, the midrange bloom was there all along with the tube amps. It just took some properly-performing crossovers to make it so apparent. So my conclusion is: If you LIKE the sound of your La Scalas with the stock crossovers (regardless of age), then think carefully before replacing them. PS: I have discovered that the Crites A and AL-3 crossovers are not Crites designs, but rather Klipsch circuits that he rebuilds with current components. I didn't know that. What I do know is that a 30-year-old original crossover sounds different than either of Mr. Crites rebuilds. The difference is probably caused by the aging capacitors in the vintage original crossovers. That MY original crossovers just happened to create a sound that I liked is probably not the average experience. So in summary, I believe that Mr. Crites' crossovers are well-made, fairly-priced, and restore the speakers to original performance specifications. The fact that I preferred the sound of my original (and, apparently, not-performing-to-spec) crossovers should be seen as an anomaly and NOT caused by any shortcomings of Mr. Crites' products.

BACKGROUND: My LaScalas came to me in profoundly rough shape. They are a 1980 model with the woofer access port on top with a screwed-in lid to allow access. To temporarily make them attractive, I covered them in "peel-and-stick" flooring planks and covered the entire front with a grill. PROPOSED: I'm thinking of doing the following: cutting the top off the existing cabinets flipping the bass cabinet so that the woofer access port is on the bottom cutting the bass cabinet so that the (new) bottom is "angled" (does away with the need for a riser) replacing the woofers having a local cabinet shop recover the bass cabinet with 3/4" veneered plywood covering the front of the new bass cabinet with a grill mounting the midrange horn atop the new cabinet moving the crossover from the top to the back of the cabinet making a riser to align the tweeter (now mounted vertically rather than horizontally) in the plane of the midrange driver RESULTS: This would leave the midrange and tweeter horns completely exposed, giving the speaker an industrial, "steampunk" look. It would also time-align the midrange and tweeter horns (whether it makes any difference or not, I don't know). Should I not like the look or sound, I could just build a top cabinet (ala La Scala II) and remount the horns in it. That would be a more attractive solution, although it wouldn't provide the time alignment that the staggered horn arrangement would. Wha'dya think?

If I'm to align the tweeters with the midrange horn, though, I'll need to move BOTH the K-77 and the piezo. How do I do that and keep the works inside the cabinet? Doesn't seem possible...

Yes, an equalizer may be a more elegant solution, but my experience is that an equalizer (or even tone controls) may fix the frequency issue but often wreak havoc with the sound stage. My experience over the years is that "less tone control is better tone control." The piezo tweeters are easy to "time align" by adjusting the spacing. Because my La Scalas have full-face grills that are approximately 0.75 inches away from the face of the motor board, I can easily mount the piezo a quarter, or even a half an inch in front of the motor board to achieve alignment with the voice coil of the T-77. Having done so, no further frequency alteration may be required. Of course, I'll have to listen to see... Further, if I don't like the effect, the piezos are easy to remove. Of course, I'll listen to the setup before cutting holes in my motor board just to see what I get. Since I already use my La Scalas with a serious subwoofer, the top extension will balance the bottom extension and the La Scalas will become the "squawker" between the sub and the piezos. I'll post what I heard once the trial is made. Thanks for all the feedback - Boomzilla

Uncle Paul believed that the mounting of the drivers behind the "motor board" had no effect on frequency response. I'm sure he's right. Nevertheless, the K-77 has never been known for its performance (conspicuous only in its absence) above 15KHz. I've acquired a pair of piezo electric tweeters with response out to bat-ear frequencies. I plan to just set them on top of the La Scala cabinets, hook them in parallel with the speakers, and just listen.

Inexpensive piezoelectric tweeters are available (typically 94 dB sensitivity). Has anyone tried using one or two with older La Scalas to supplement the K-77 tweeter? If I remember right, the impedance on the piezos is high and drops with increasing frequency. The crossover was done by putting a resistor in series with the tweeter? Since the typical K-77 rolls off at 15KHz or so, it would seem that a supertweeter might help. Who has tried this, and where might I find a crossover chart for typical pizo tweeters? Thanks - Boomzilla PS - Happy New Year!

I replaced the crossovers in my mid-80s La Scalas with a pair of Mr. Crites' type AL crossovers. Mr. Crites crossover slightly elevates the level of the squawker horn (if I understand him correctly). In my room, this has had the unfortunate effect of causing the treble to sound recessed. Rather than monkey with the crossovers or add L-pads, I was wondering if remounting the K-77 tweeter to the front face of the mounting-board would have the effect of causing slightly more apparent treble? Has anyone else tried this? Of course, I'd have to cut the mounting-board so that the magnet assembly would fit through the mounting-board, but this won't be a problem for me since my speakers use full grilles and the surgery won't be visible. Thanks - Boomzilla

Using the Klipsch site uploader, the "one pic per post" limit is correct. I prefer, however, to post my pics to photobucket.com (free), and link to them there. That way, an infinite # of pictures may be added for any post. I also run a Mac.

Thank you, BMWM5 - I understand the equation effort in = results out. I do, however, have questions since I've never applied a veneer before other than iron-on edgings. I've also done some internet research about veneering, but it seems to gloss over the question most important to me, specifically "surface preparation." Because my speakers are so badly beaten up, I can state with authority that every exterior panel is in very poor condition. Every corner on these speakers is badly rounded off. All bottom edges are chipped, gouged, and flaked, and all sides/fronts/backs are similarly broken. The front seam of the bass horn nose is uneven and even the tops are cracked ( ! ). See the photos at the beginning of the thread for examples. That being the case, it would take a week or more of nothing but sanding, filling, and corner / edge reconstruction before I would have surfaces smooth enough to veneer. Since I already have two 4x8 sheets of birch veneer plywood in my garage, I think that reconstructing the outsides of the speaker boxes is a better solution than veneering. By replacing only six pieces (four sides & two tops), the original exterior would be restored to "factory finish." Should I choose not to replace, I've been advised by another poster in this thread to instead cover the existing boxes with 1/4" veneered plywood. This would would accomplish several goals: The internal bass horn would not have to be disturbed The external surfaces of the existing boxes would not need to be disturbed The extra thickness would damp vibrations Of course, should I pursue the "cover with veneered plywood" option, I'd be obliged to cut the top horns off of the bass horn and overturn the bass horn so that the woofer access would be from the bottom rather than from the top (as currently configured). Otherwise, I'd need to tear the plywood and top off of the speakers should I ever need to access the woofers. In conclusion, my best options, as I see them now are to: #1 - Cover the bass horn with 1/4" veneered plywood while creating a new top-hat box with 3/4" veneered ply #2 - Reconstruct the entire exterior of the speakers in 3/4" veneered ply #3 - Have a refinishing shop smooth and veneer the cabinets, or #4 - Live with what I've got. Cordially - Boomzilla

I've always liked the Altec A-19 look. I'll probably go that route with matching grill cloths.

You're correct. That's the cost of this solution to the roughed-up interior of the bass horn.

Thank you VERY much for the 1/4" veneered ply idea. That would work perfectly for what I have in mind. I planned to just make a new doghouse, but the veneer would work without my having to recreate the bass horn. If I do go to a La Scala II style cabinet, I'll probably install individual grills on both the bass horn and the top hat so that I don't have to veneer the inside of the bass horn. It'll look somewhat like an old Altec model 19:

Thank you kindly! I'm pleased (as is my better half). I may still eventually make a "La Scala II" style cabinet, but it won't be any time soon.

OK - If you're an aficionado of fine woodwork, just move on - Nothing here to see - just move along... Uncle Paul is probably spinning in his grave over this; the La Scalas deserve much better. Nevertheless, within the parameters of the budget and time restraints that I'd set on this project, I'll have to call it a success. Your opinions may differ... Cheers - Boomzilla

New information = new post.

Might I politely disagree. Yes, good cheap power IS available today (Emotiva comes to mind...), but (and this is a BIG BUT...) it may not be the best option for high-sensitivity speakers. That first watt is where the speakers normally play. Unless the amplification is at its best here, then it really doesn't matter if it sounds good at 100, 200, or even 300 watts. I've found that the 16-watt Qunpu tube/solid-state hybrid amp drives my La Scalas beautifully. Just saying...

I've experience with multiple DACs: Internal DACs of Yamaha, Onkyo, & Kenwood AV receivers Emotiva XDA-1 DAC Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC The only one that really lit my fire was the Audioquest. If (and only if) you're running computer audio via USB, my I suggest the Dragonfly in the highest terms.

Well, here are some factoids for anyone ever contemplating using peel-and-stick flooring planks to recover their Klipsch cabinets: The adhesive on the flooring planks is not robust enough to hold the planks to vertical surfaces. Overnight, the planks will sag from the position that they were installed, and then fall off. To keep the planks from doing this, small brads are needed to tack them in place. The glue on the peel-and-stick planks is the nastiest stuff known to man. It will get on your hands, your tools, and every possible adjacent surface. Once there, the glue is impossible to remove. I've tried soap and water, orange degreaser, denatured alcohol, and lighter fluid. These all make the glue more viscous, but don't remove it. The only way I've found to remove the glue is by physical scrubbing with a clean terrycloth rag. Since the plank edges can't be mitered, there will always be an ugly black seam where one or the other of the planks exposes its side seam. The planks do damp the vibration of the La Scalas' bass bin and remove some audible coloration. Addition of the planks to the top, sides, and back of the speakers adds about 30 pounds to each speaker. If you expect to move your speakers, take this extra weight into account. Lining up 4" planks across uneven surfaces is tedious. If I had this to do again, I'd use the widest planks I could find (6" were the widest stocked at my local Lowes store). The local stores do NOT stock any significant variety of peel-and-stick wood patterns. Because the delivery time on special orders was indefinite, I chose to use an available pattern (light ash) rather than to order what I really wanted (cherry). Selection may be better in your neck of the woods. I've got grills and cloth on order that should arrive Wednesday. Barring any further unexpected difficulties, I'll post some photos of the finished products. I got the first box from parts-express.com today. The grill cloth that they sent me is semi-transparent and very stiff. Since I'm using the grill frame kit (also from Parts Express), the cloth will need to bend easily to wrap around the frame. Therefore, the original grill cloth will have to be returned. I visit the local sewing stores tomorrow with my better half to look for plain polyester double-knit fabric that will be both opaque and flexible enough to stretch around the grill frame. Nothing is easy...Sigh. Additionally, the grill-frame kit requires the drilling of 5/8 inch holes in the cabinet to mount the frame to the box. For the upper holes, no problem because the upper box of the La Scala is unsealed. For the bottom corners, though, the 3/4 inch plywood won't be thick enough to allow for 5/8" holes, so I may have to glue & screw a small wedge of 3/4 inch plywood in the inside corners of the bass horn. That will allow the holes for the grill to be drilled with firm backing and without breaching the 3/4 inch cabinet walls. It may also require offsetting the bottom of the grill by about 1/2 inch or so upward from the bottom of the cabinets. I'm suspecting that this won't be visible from a listening or standing position, but I'll have to try it & see.

Decision made. The lowest-cost and quickest turnaround was to cover the top & sides of the cabinets with "peel-and-stick" floor vinyl planks & then put a grille over the entire front of the box. I've got one of the two boxes covered & expect to do the other tomorrow. That leaves only the grilles... Does anyone have a grille pattern or should I just measure & cut my own? How thick a plywood do I need for a grille? Would it be feasible to use some of that extruded "picture frame" aluminum and stretch the cloth inside the frame? And finally, what's the best way to attach the grille to the cabinet (velcro? hang it on some screws? use plastic speaker sockets & balls?). Thanks - Boomzilla

Now THAT's an idea... I do happen to have two 4x8 sheets of birch ply in the garage... I like my existing squawker & tweeter too much to change, but I seriously DO like the LS-2 look... The idea does, however, bring up another question or two: I don't own a table saw. If I take my plywood down to Lowes or Home Depot, can they make the cuts for me, or will their coarse "rip" saw blade cause my birch veneer to splinter? If they can't make my cuts, where can I take my wood to have it sawn cleanly? How accurately can I get my plywood sawn? Plus or minus a thirty-second of an inch, I can sand out. Plus or minus a sixteenth of an inch will be sloppy, and plus or minus an eighth of an inch will be disastrous. Also, assuming I reuse the guts of my existing doghouse, how do I deal with the beat-up and poorly painted nose of the bass horn? Should I plan on just rebuilding the cabinets completely? I have plans for all the cabinet parts; can I just drop the plans & plywood off with a cabinet shop and pick up finished products? How do I find a reputable shop? I'm NOT comfortable enough with my carpentry skills (and I lack the tools) to cut my own parts. On the other hand, I'm perfectly comfortable screwing and gluing the parts together. If I'm going to the trouble of new cabinets, I'll want both the internal side braces and bass cabinet grills (ala Volti). Pardon all the questions, but I really don't know. Thanks - Boomzilla

Nah - I'm not that ambitious. The idea that occurred to me last night is to just get some "peel-and-stick" flooring & slap it on. There'd be no need to sand or fill & it'd be quick.