roscoedawg
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Posts posted by roscoedawg
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I picked up an SW-10 for a secondary system and ended up over-extending the active driver. (VERY loud pop and now subsequent popping at lower volumes)
Anyway, I called Klipsch to order a new one. After ordering it I asked to be transferred to the Techs. The tech told me he thought there was a newer driver that the engineers came up with as a preferred option to the OEM part. He gave me the new P/N (121035) K1036-E. I transferred back to the order desk to see what P/N they ordered and it was the OEM part, not the new, superceded P/N. I was rather surprised, as was the guy at the order desk who did not have this new P/N in his book. All's well that ends well.
I know the SW-10 is a lower end model, but I am not familiar with it. Any comments would be appreciated as to its abilities, strengths or weaknesses.
Thanks,
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Please see my other post as this was a duplicate entry. (I accidently pushed enter before I entered the description)
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So I would assume from what you have said that I need to replace the speaker. Is it a matter of unscrewing it from the cabinet and disconnecting the wires or is it more involved than that.
Please be patient with my ignorance in this subject matter. Just never needed to do it before...
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I think I blew my sub. I had the gain too high and heard a loud POP! Since the initial incident, I heard it again at a lower level.
I looked at the speaker and could not discern and damage. Would the damage be internal? What is the most logical cause and fix? I assume I can order the replacement parts easily enough.
Thanks in advance for any advise.
David
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I have an LF-10 and a KSW-15 in opposite corners and they sound great. I don't understand the "cancelling each other out" statement. Could someone expand on that for me? I find both of mine compliment each other.
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Sorry for the double post. New laptop is the size of a postage stamp!
This is the second time I have blown this particular subwoofer. First time it was under warrantee. This time it's out of my pocket. While watching Finding Nemo, there was a loud pop. I'm assuming I blew it up again.
My question is, is it easy to do the repair myself? I'm assuming I can get the parts through Klipsh and just swap out the old speaker. That is, assuming it is the speaker.
Any advice appreciated.
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This is a test
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Got to be:
Metalica - Black album or
Rush - 2112
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I have a C-7 driven by a Yamaha RX-V2095. At lower volumes the center channel will disappear. When I step up the volume a notch or two it kicks back in. This happens whether I increase the volume at the center channel level or the main volume control.
Any advice appreciated.
R-Dog
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Having trouble with the center channel on my 2095 cutting out at lower volumes. When I crank it up a bit, it kicks back in.
Any thoughts?
Gracias-
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When I run a test to set the channel levels for home audio, the sound that comes from one KLF-20 sounds distinctly different from the other one. It's like they are two different manufacturer's.
I held a db meter next to each of the components at the same distance (6 inches)and they are constant side to side.
Any suggestions?
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Yamaha RX-V2090
Yamaha DDP-2
Panasonic DVD-A110
Sony CDP-CX260
JVC AV-36D501
KLF-20 Mains w/AudioQuest CV-4 cable
C-7 Center w/AudioQuest CV-4 cable
RS-3 Fronts w/AudioQuest CV-4 cable
KSF-S5 Rears
LF-10 Sub w/AudioQuest Copperhead
KSF-15 Sub w/AudioQuest Copperhea
AudioQuest Coral interconnects on all components
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Like Mikekid, I too have an OLD Yamaha RX-V2090 and like it. I bought it when they first came out, and obviously technology has improved in the last few years in HT.
I think when I upgrade, it will be eith Denon. They ARE sweet!
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Yamaha RX-V2090
Yamaha DDP-2
Panasonic DVD-A110
Sony CDP-CX260
T.V. 36" JVC
KLF-20 Mains
C-7 Center
RS-3 Fronts
KSF-S5 Rears
LF-10 Sub
KSF-15 Sub
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I have a KSW15 up front with a LF-10 in the rear. (KLF-20's, C-7, RS-3')
I am only using the LFE single line into the LFE input, and in reading the other posts here, I think I will try the "Y" adapter. So far, I'm not overly impressed with the KSF-15 by itself for music. Agreed, for HT it kicks butt. The LF-10 is a superb balance for music.
On the side, does anyone know why the link for manuals does not have anything for the LF-10 sub?
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check out apature.com
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Sorry, here's the URL
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In my search for a good 27 foot long sub cable, I found this site that might be of use to some of you. It looks like they make some fine line....
Rdawg.
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boa12
Would it matter if I either used a "Y" adapter at the first KSW10 and then ran the KSW15 off of the "Y", or do I get better sound using the "Line Out" of the KSW15 to the KSW10
Thanks in adv.
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I have a KSW10 12 feet of cable away down the right side of a room and want to daisy-chain another KSW15 about 27 feet worth of cable away.
My question is two-fold. How do I connect two sub's in series, and does anyone know where I can get a single MonsterBass 400 in a 30 ft length?
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Sub
in Home Theater
I just bought a KSW15 to keep my KSW10 company. I bought it at CLARITYAUDIO.COM for $447.77 It was $501.68 delivered to my door.
Beleive me, you DO need a GOOD sub!
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Sub
in Home Theater
I just bought a KSW15 to keep my KSW10 company. I bought it at CLARITYAUDIO.COM for $447.77 It was $501.68 delivered to my door.
Beleive me, you DO need a GOOD sub!
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Why buy a KV3 and not a new KSFC7?
I have a KV3 and was wondering what the difference was between the two. I was thinking about a KLFC7, but didn't know what the differences were.
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Why buy a KV3 and not a new KSFC7?
I have a KV3 and was wondering what the difference was between the two. I was thinking about a KLFC7, but didn't know what the differences were.
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I have a pair of rear surround KSF-5S that I want to match. What is the current model number for the same fit?
Thanks,
Replacing Sub Driver - Which wire is which?
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Received new driver. Which wire is positive, the black or white? Pretty sure the white is positive, just want to make sure.
Thanks,