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justinsweber

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Everything posted by justinsweber

  1. Its a DIY unless dave starts selling the baffles as kits. The Woofer is a Eminence 15A which works very very very well for open baffle projects. Most use some varation of this driver. The hole it fires through is a port... Dave can explation more of the rational behind it. That said, the bass is tighter/ more horn liek than diect radators. The Crossover point is 200hz. Its a 2way with a 15" for LF and a 8" full range doing the heavy lifting. Its setup for a single amp. If you used mini DSP you wouldnt need the corssover. Its a small speaker. ~22wide, ~30 tall and 8" deep or so. I havnt measured in a bit.
  2. yup... thats the one. though you could go stamped frame and prob not hear the difference.
  3. There is very little if any movement. There is 3/4" wool that surounds the sides of the 8" I can say it beats the conscala. The Yields do for bass reproduction, but if I owned an apt or needed smaller speakers these would be my 1st choice. The Bass is tight and fast and with the crossover they dont have the boxy sound open baffle guys hate.
  4. Crossovers ordered from Al. Parts comming in from parts express. Need to figure out how to brace the mod horn in some creative way. The finish was totally exhuasting... 4 cabs. I kept the finisher an extra day to look after all the details I wanted and then cleanup was 4 hours. The end result seems worth it.
  5. I'd love to see the schematic. I asked Al re a 500 vs 600hz crossover point. He didn't think there was much difference. I'll have to rethink it some. I do have to say that I much prefer the sound of the AP12 network to that of a cornscalawal re bass. Seems cleaner. I wish I could hear the ES woofer network it I can't afford it anyway.
  6. Go to ALKs site he has tested both that low and they work great. Ive used both crossed at 500 and had really solid results. If cash was king the BMS would be my choice but they dont simply fit. Im more focused on messaging the wood work to ring out the last once of performance :-).
  7. Just spoke with Al. He says I can go Ap12-350 if I wanted, but that a AP12-500 was the prob best choice. Im debating on trying the AP15-6000 or the ES5800... I know the ES network and will prob lean that way. If I remember correctly the Kappa pro can be used in must smaller cabs without many ill effects. That said, The vol was increased ever so slightly to bal against the mid horn size. Id have to look at my bass box calualtions.
  8. Dave's Yields are truely jaw droping speakers... Ive owned 2 pair. But the DIYer in me wanted different. With Dave's aid we have the Might mite AKA Mini-Yield. 15" woofer for 200hz and below, AN 8" for everything above. The bass is much like the yield, tight, fast and controled... no boominess. I already loved the AN 8" so I'm an easy sell. Anyone inthe LA area is welcome for a listen. Dave cut the baffles for me, ampsandsound/ did the veener and diytube helped trnasfer Dave's schematic to PCB. Might make an awsome kit? My wife loves the sound and size... High WAF.
  9. justinsweber

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    From the album: Mini-Yield

  10. justinsweber

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    From the album: Mini-Yield

  11. justinsweber

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    From the album: Mini-Yield

  12. justinsweber

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    From the album: Mini-Yield

  13. justinsweber

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    From the album: Mini-Yield

  14. The sides, top and bottom will be M. Walnut. Lower part of inside will be stained black, Baffle and back will black. Ive had the horns stained same color as baffle. Im hoping for a perfect color match/ bending in. I think Ive decided on the B&C 750tn-16ohm... bigger and more expensive, but should be a good choice.
  15. Great looking gear. GD is a well thought of topology.
  16. A bit more progress... Ryan the other half of the co made the cabs. We are now waiting for finishing. Shoudl be down by end of next week.
  17. Just did a bit of prep work... Glued the rear brace for the woofer on. Dave was kind enough recess the woofer so it will sit flush to the face. I like face mounting as the woofer rides on its shoulder. The rear bracing is awesome. I used the nuts and bolts to act like claps while it drys. I used extra glue to force into any opening/seal the ring to the back of the motor board. Ill prob paint to give a clean look inside and out.
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