justinsweber
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Posts posted by justinsweber
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Im considering building a set of reproduction push-push amps. I’ve narrowed my choice to 2 options… Dynaco MK3 and Dyanco MKIV.The MKIII would use the new Triode chassis with IEC and PCB based power supply. Ive used it before and really liked. Front end will be DIYtube Poseidon PCB, power supply with be C.Chong. I will bypass the AC balance on the Poseidon and get ride of the silicone for the CCS thus running a more traditional setup. (Iron will be from Triode). This setup is a perfect modern version of the orig but lacks the looks of the orig in some ways. KT88 for 60watts.The MKiV will use dynakit parts chassis, Front end will be DIYtube Poseidon PCB, power supply will be a can cap as the chassis is old school classic reproduction. Same mods to the Poseidon front end. This version has all the great looks but the cord is captive, speaker connectors are old school and uses a can cap. That said… it looks retro. 40watts of 6CA7 goodness.As non of my projects have stayed with me forever… I want to know which idea seems more desirable for a resale stand point? Id love some feedback.Thank you,Justin
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All of us building Shannon’s design seem to stumble onto quarks and limits/strengths of each design. Ive never asked how many PCBs he sells but I’m sure for every pic of 1 of his circuits there are 10 we don’t see. Tremendously flexible and well worth building.
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Eminence Kappa Pro 15C
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PM sent for crossovers.
Horns and drivers for sale still
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justinsweber@hotmail.com for paypal
Not sure what shiping will be for the AL-3s but prob $30 if less Ill refund
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The Ap12-500 is a 2nd order/2nd order network. Ive used 3x before with my cornscalas and really loved the clean sound... a bit less romantic than 1st order networks (Sorta your studio monitor with room filling sound).
All unused parts K55M, K77 Sq Mag, K400, and crossovers are listed for sale now.
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Everything you see here for $400 plus actual shipping. (Priced for a fast sale).
If breaking them apart:
Bob Crites AL-3 crossovers ($365 new, $160 for pair.
Klipsch K55M pair in great condition. ($140 for the pair)
Klipsch K77 sq magnet ($120 for pair)
Klipsch K400 Metal horn ($100 for pair)
Everything was working perfectly. I pulled the parts to build a 2 way La Scala.
Justin 323-868-9722.
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All the spare parts... crossovers, horns, K77/K55 will be going up for sale shortly :-)
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Will the stock K33s go up that high?
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Sortly after getting the new to me La Scala Splits I was suffering froma a case of listener fatigue.
I decided then to try a path less traveled to convert my La Scalas to 2way with Daves BFH (Big Fing Horn) and 2" drivers.
I will be saving up for some B&C 85TNs and ALK AP12-400s.
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It has a good home! I'm due to be getting top plates in for something you helped me think up.
Its a switching unit. Will allow use of 2 seperate speaker with 1 amp or 2 amps with 1 speaker. Not switched on the fly, but the switch completly gets out of the way.
Ill post pics, schematice and part numebr for those who want to DIY.
As you seem to be owning ever great numbers of speakers... this might be a good idea :-).
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LA was home (Koreatown) until grad school then it was Long beach... Now I’ve given in and have come to appreciate clean streets.
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Chad, Thanks for the heads up... few questions: XBMC... what are the advantages? I went OSX to get access to BSDs subsystem... (Stable). I agree that all of the OSX front end is over kill, but would load the kernal and then run XBMC?
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I once had a 67-F100 with in inline 6. Doing my 1st head sway, I lost grip of the breaker bar and my knuckles went across the dull flat surface of the head... There was no pain until the prety white of my bone was colored by grease and blood. Im hoping for something less eventful :-). Ill prob order 2 Eminence Kappa Pro 15Cs to pair with. Ive built cabs that were just stupid with how much material I threw at it... Seeing all these wonderful build on here has helped me rethink some ideas. But there is always places to imporve... that and its just fun. I have a chip amp Ive built to pair with my garage system... 67watts should be just enough power to earn my Klipsch badges. I have some neighbors I'd love mad at me... this might be just the ticket :-).
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An in-expensive music server.
For my lastest project, I was trying to build an inexpensive music server… I think I pretty much did… could use some input from everyone here.
I started out with buying a old macbook (2009) on E-day for ~ $130 to my door. The battery was bad (bulging) so I got a new unit from ebay for $22 with shipping. I then got a install DVD of OSX 10.6 for $10 with shipping. I need the install to allow me to reload cleanly and format for HPFS with case sensitive and journaled… (~1050 albums). I went to the crutial website and found out I could go to 4gigs of PC5300 SODIM 200. I then went to Amazon and got it for $50 with shipping. The last little tidbit was to swap drives. When I supped up my mac mini with a 2nd drive and a SSD for the primary, I was left with my 750gig. In went the newer 750gig drive. I used I-fit-it to see how to disassemble and put back together. You can even order a CD-drive delete and add a 2nd drive. All that was left was to do updates and copy over 500gigs of music. So for about ~$220 Ryan my biz partner has a music server. (I ripped all his CDs). All music will be played through his USB DAC (Pop-pulse). Hope the outline helps other build a great system. Oh, one more thing… download Onxy… Great utility… Keeps your mac running perfect. I’ve owned a Olive… and this is much more flexible and FASTER… Even can use a remote.
Here are my questions:
Would Amarra HiFi be a benefit if only REDBOOK?
I’ve seen scripts that can be downloaded which disable all extraneous processes. Anyone know where I can get these?
Other helpful hints?
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I’m going to be building a set of our Knock down cabs.
I already have the top hats made up. I just need to assemble the bins.
I reserved myself a set a few months ago when we cut a batch and not it’s time to put them together.
I hope we will video some of it. Anyone able to make it to Orange county ~ 10am can take part. The idea is to show case how simple these bad boys come together... or don’t :-).
So come on down and hangout.
I'm debating putting them on casters as my ultimate garage system.
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Specs: -1db 20 Hz to 10 kHz @ 200 mW, or -3db 11.3 Hz to 20 kHz, less than 5 mV of noise at idle. RMS was 200mW with the 32ohm tap @ 1000Khz.
250v to the plates, ~245-250v B+
Hope this helps... no real secret sause, but our attempts at clean builds :-).
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One interesting twist I've been mulling over is SS rectification with SETs vs Tube. Most of my amps are built with SS rectification for reliability, faster transients, bit more bass authority. That said, my fav SET amps are tube rectified... just my personal preference. Some people are capacitor junkies… I suppose I’m an iron junkie.
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Hey everyone. I took the weekend off and went to Lake Havasu so I’m pretty useless for details at the moment. Plate and grid are pretty close to Darling spec and definitely within the tube data specs. The real changes came with increases in cap filtering. That said the Kenzie headphone amp was my attempt to take a well know super easy circuit and see if good transformers could convert to a headphone amp well enough. I didn’t want to use the tried and true route of voltage dividing networks. The version we use uses a 5k primary with 32ohm and 600ohm secondarys. In general I try to run higher impedances to reduce distortion… for SE setups this will be 5k. (As an aside, I gave in on an amp I’m building for myself and ordered some 4.2K primaries to see if it will yield more power without significantly increasing distortion.)
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The power supply got some extra filtering (100uf @450v on the 1st sec vs 47uf) and grounding took the efforts of people smarter than me. The transformers are really the secret sauce here. Prob could get any number of manufactures to wind. We chose 32ohm and 600ohm to allow for the widest verity of cans. All in all its a totally cool amp. I used for a few weeks with my Schit Modi DAC right to the amp and really enjoyed the sound. They had way more drive than I needed. I turned my mono price cans into mini monitors :-).
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My meaning was that you often hear someone say how a solid state amp sounds really good, kind of like a tube amp, but you never hear someone say, "wow, that tube amp sounds awesome, almost as good as a tube amp!"
There are tube amps that don't sound as good as some solid state amps, and it's really tied to execution, parts quality, and of course -- expense. Personal taste is a factor too. For example, for low level listening, I still think it's very hard to beat a nicely done Tripath amp -- which I would take over most of the inexpensive Chinese amps that are flooding the market.
I don't understand why Craig would say that the specs are meaningless. I think it's better to say that they're misleading. An example here would be distortion figures. Solid state amplifiers will advertise vanishingly low THD specifications, which is done by employing a significant amount of negative feedback.
"Tubes are voltage amplifiers as opposed to transistors which are current amplification devices. As a consequence, tubes are a more linear amplification technology, requiring less overall negative feedback to make the circuit linear. Negative feedback re-injects a sample of the amplifier’s output signal back into the input, 180 degrees out of phase, in an attempt to reduce amplifier non-linearity and distortion. In practice, negative feedback tends to slow the amplifier down and sucks the emotion and life out of the music. High feedback designs usually sound sterile, boring and lifeless, while low or zero feedback designs provide for a more immediate and natural sound. Depending on technology and type of the used output device, transistor amplifiers generally require the use of over 40dB of local loop or global negative feedback."
Nice points.
No comparison exists.Tubes hands down dollar for dollar are more Musical then Solid State costing twice as much. Tech specs are meaningless. If you listen to music you should prefer it to be musical IMHO.
Like the line Dean used not long ago...when have you ever heard a tube amp advertised to sound like solid grate
The compairison question is awsome as well.
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you're using an external CD drive correct?
I ripped 800 albums and killed my external... Id hate it if I did that to the internal drive.
Make sure you've checked the keep iTunes organized button :-).
When you're done you'll have the kind of archive you've assays wanted.. bit for bit correct.
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Not to confuse things... could someone start a new threat and explain diff between an AA, AK and AL networks.
I have a AL-3 which I understand is a good LS network... that said, Im not loving the sound.
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Dean, there is a hotroded Kenzie with bigger iron... Kenzie SE.
The basic quetion is.. Did you want an amp for phones and speaker... then its the SE84 or SE-84 special ed.
If you wanted to try one for just phones... 32ohms and 600ohms. The Kenzie phones which has just completed bench testing.
I think the 1626/Darling/Kenzie is well paried with the LSs.
A kenzie (1626 power tubes, .75watt SET goodness) or even big ben (8-12watt KT88), can be had with a headphone option I guess but confuses things.
The SE84 is moderate power with a great headphone section. Trying to take a straight up power amp design and use transformers wound for headphone impedances proved to have some pitfalls that were really hard to work through... thus Ill call it good with 2 amps that offer head phones.
Dean, you have new speakers… how about amplification?
Dynaco MKIV or MKIII for reproduction resale?
in Technical/Restorations
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The MKiV just looks cooler. I agree the MK3 is the powerhouse.
With the front end Im planing... it will be 12AX7/12BH7 Kt88. No AC val, no Silcone... all tubes/caps/and resistors. Will prob do a triode switch too.
But the MKiV look cooool just old school, way less convent to hookup.