zingo

Thanks for the infoon ICE amps. It sounds like they can be agood combination with the right amp, but it's hard to find an ICE amp that can be demoed, let alone at home. I really like the idea though of a lighter weight amp as my current tube amp and DAC can't share my component rack at the same time without breaking it...

Just wondering if anyone has used/heard any Klipsch speakers, vintage or otherwise, with Wyred4Sound amplification? I like class A SS amps with my Fortes, but haven't had the opportunity to try quality D technology with them.

Bump

Now that you have the new XOs, you need to show them off! [H]

I don't feel too offended being elbow deep in vacuum tubes. I wasn't planning on buying an Acura any time soon anyway... []

Computer error

Sorry for digging up a thread from last year, but old speaker gaskets can be replaced with Mortite rope caulking or a similar product. It is not only a better seal than the original and does not dry out, but also couples the driver to the cabinet. I have redone many speakers with it including my Fortes, and it definitely makes a difference.The only word of caution is that you have to check the tention of the mounting screws after about a week as the Mortite is a clay like material and can compress a little initially. As far as passive radiators go, a sealed cabinet will never be 100% sealed as they usually have some losses with the cabinet construction, or even through the dustcaps of woofers as they are not 100% air tight. A good seal is considered when you can push on the passive radiator, and the woofer takes at least 3 seconds to return to normal; obviously the longer the better. I started by replacing just the seal on the passive radiators on my Fortes, and that alone put me over the 3 second mark.

Thanks for all the work AL. I have read up on your work and it looks great. However, I wanted to start off with upgrading the stock XO and see where that got me. I assume I'll build your design down the road, but thought I'd start on that route.

Yes, I did one, than listened to them at the same time with the two difference XOs. I was surprised by the difference, most notably in the bass, but also in the clarity. However, I don't like A/B tests without a stereo pair as thats not how I listen and stereo mixes can throw things off. Yes I did. I did not use stand-offs, but simply felt the foam as I screwed the boards down until they were tight and the foam was not compressed. I'll recheck them in a week or so to see if they have moved at all. I'm currently running a Shuguang Treasure 300B integrated, a more or less custom EL34 integrated, and a KingRex T20U+PSU Tripath amp. I've listed them in order of sound quality, but the KingRex getting props for its SS bass reproduction. For sources it's either my Sony SACD, or lossless PC files via separate DAC.

Here is a picture of where I mounted the boards, and yes, your stock Forte crossover either looks like his on the left, or mine on the left of my second picture.

I don't want this to turn into an endless debate. Harry and I hear a difference and you don't 4tay; to each his own. I see no reason for anyone to try to discredit what makes someone else happy in the audio world. If it works for you great, and I find no pleasure in arguing with someone else something they don't want. You can be happy with what can be measured, and I will be happy with what I hear.

Luckily you don't have to listen to my broken in speakers... []

Mine XOs had the tiny, printed circuit board as well, but I decided to build my own; just ditch the board. [] As far as the burn-in time goes on new components, I feel that 100 hours is a landmark where most of the burning-in has been done; probably 85%. In my experience, improvements may be heard up to +/- 250 hours, but they are much smaller than the initial 100 hours.

Thanks to the prodding of a number of you, I've decided to post my experience with a full crossover build. Here are all the Jantzen parts I used for the build; MOX resistor, Z-Cap Standard for the woofer, Z-Cap Superior for the mid, Z-Cap Silver for the high, air core inductor for the high, and C-Coil (torrodial) inductor for the woofer. Also, Bob Crites autotransformers and silver solder throughout. The stock XOs are on the left with the new ones on the right. I decided to use terminal strips to keep everything easy and make the XOs removeable if I ever want. The leads are a little longer than I would ideally want, but I makes for a nice balance of good looks and function. Here are the XOs mounted on the baffle board in the bottom of the cabinet. They are screwed into the board for solid mounting, yet easy removeal. Having just finished them yesterday and still burning them in, all I say for now is that they sound cleaner and have fuller and tighter bass. I'm excited to see what unfolds at the 100+ hour mark of burn-in.