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Posts posted by JohnA

  1. The rotation angle of your preamp's volume control has little bearing on actual power output, though that is unusually high. 


    To figure the sound level in your room,

    1 watt is 98 dB at 1 meter

    Add an amp and another speaker  +6 dB, 104 @ 1m

    Double the distance to 2m (6.5 feet) is -6 dB, 98 dB

    Double again to 13 feet, -6 dB, or 92 dB, @ 1 watt, plenty loud for peaks and a 20 watt amp still has 13 dB of headroom for Flim and The BBs.  I sit almost 13 feet from my La Scalas. 


    You won't lose quite 6 dB/doubling of distance in a reverberant field (room) so this exercise is conservative.  

    • Like 1
  2. On 6/24/2013 at 3:48 AM, philly0116 said:

    Just curious what other members have done to improve the bass on their La Scalas. I keep seeeing this picture come up? Anyone done this and had success? Looks like it would work......



    I added 4 killer subs.  La Scalas need low distortion bass below 60-ish Hz.  The DJK mod needs a sharp LF filter and some EQ to stand out.  Adding 1 to 3 dB (without the filter and EQ) below about 70 Hz helps, but is is not significant. 

    • Thanks 1
  3. I have never heard H2s or H3s, but everyone I know at Klipsch says the H3 woofer is a nice upgrade to the 2s.  Supposedly the H4 woofer is the same. 


    Were I serious about upgrading now that I've had H4s for a year+, I'd go with the H3 kit (new caps/inductors) and look about adding volume and a port to make my own H4.  A small box added to the rear with a port into the original cabinet ought to do it.  Perhaps ClaudeJ1 will help you with the calculations.  

  4. I made my own speaker cables from braided CAT 5E plenum rated (teflon insulation) cable.  I twisted 3 pair and braided those 3.   Finished with sore fingers.  They are about equal to 11 gauge wire.  And they do look cool!  




    I'm sure they measure impeccably.  I could hear a difference in my KLF-C7, probably because of the lower midrange impedance. 

    • Like 1
  5. The black plastic cased capacitors were OEM Klipsch for a while in the 990s maybe before.  Your K-42-E looks to be an Eminence (speaker company) made copy of the EV EVM-12L, the woofer I had in my early '80s HIPs. 


    Your English is excellent. 

    • Like 2
  6. spacer.png


    Use a concrete anchor.  Drill matching hole in ball and tighten.  Use coupler to attach a threaded rod. 




    Lube barrel and ball with motor oil.  Drill hole for threaded rod in steel plate, 3/8" or so.  Place plate over rod and against muzzle while attached to ball.  Add nut and slowly draw threaded rod and ball to muzzle.  You can use wooden blocks under the steel plate to help pull the ball the last few inches. 

  7. TL;DR  So many comments, I'm not sure I will offer much more. 


    Here's what I do/did.  And I'd recommend in this order. 


    Place them 2 to 3 feet out of the corner or about 2 feet off the wall. 


    Add several uber-performance subwoofers, not only for output, but to try to match the La Scala's very low distortion. 


    Replace the caps with high quality film and foil caps.  They don't need to be $300 each, but it will be expensive. Delete the diodes.


    Front/flush mount the tweeters to reduce diffraction by the motorboat.  Klipsch made Z brackets and a flanged K-77 to do it.  You can also buy horns that use the excellent B&C DE120 tweeter.  A tractrix tweeter horn will sound better.  Alternately, you can place the tweeters on top of the cabinet, vertically aligned with the squawker parting line; that will approximately time align the squawker and tweeter, the worst time misalignment in the system.


    Wrap the squawker horn in Dynamat of equal to damp small vibrations.  Then, line the motorboard opening with thick felt or front mount the squawker to reduce diffraction at the mouth.  Felt is cheap and easy.


    Stuff the upper cabinet with pillow stuffing knock on the top with your knuckles to see why. 


    Buy DVD-Audio discs.

  8. Is there only one?


    SN 193 is so old, I'm unsure of the correct drivers.  The EV EVM-15L woofer, is a good woofer, but may not be the best choice for the bass horn.  It was still in production a few years ago and can be readily reconed, if needed.  The University ID-40 is the midrange, aka Squawker.  I would have thought a University SA-HF would have been original.  I have one I am not going to use; you can have for a nominal sum, if it is the original driver.  Few (none?) of that age had tweeters.  Mr. JRH will clear up the fog, in a bit. 


    Klipsch often sold upgrade kits for older K-horns that added a tweeter, a newer squawker and revised crossover.  An upgrade to 3-way would be the best for sound, but, #193 has some value of it's own due to its age. 



    • Like 1
  9. Crites Speakers usually stocks replacement diaphragms, some pre-mounted so the replacement is an easy DIY job.  You DO want the later T-350/T-35 diaphragm with ribbon leads for it higher power handling capacity (5 cont/50/100 peak?).


    I find the DE120 driver on a true tractrix horn to be silky smooth and natural sounding.  I like it better than my original K-77-Ms.  You should at least try to front mount your K-77s to get them out of the tunnel they fire through. 

    • Like 1
  10. On 3/26/2022 at 10:32 AM, JAGX said:

    I plan on buying my first OLED TV this year, and hope to use these LaScalas for double duty, music and home theater. This is my first time trying to coordinate all these components and frankly it is starting to get confusing, so please forgive any foolish questions that I may have failed to find answers to researching on my own!


    I bought a pair of gently used AL5 trade-ins and am picking them up next week from the store. Any tips on what to look for/ask when inspecting them? This and the TV are the are breaking my bank so the rest of the setup is going to be budgeted as best I can.


    I think it makes sense to hook these up to an AV Receiver pre-amp, then hook the AV Receiver with HDMI eARC to the TV's HDMI eARC. I will also connect a 4k Blu-ray player, FiOS cable box, and 4k Apple TV using HDMI to the (Receiver or directly to the TV), not sure which is optimal?


    Back to the LaScalas, I will use an amp (~$1,200 budget) to power them because it should be better/worth it to match a stand-alone amp quality/watts the LaScalas versus using the AV receiver powered channels, right? 


    Will connecting the LaScalas to an AV receiver degrade the experience, or cancel out the benefit of using pre-amps and a stand-alone amp? Basically, am I an idiot for trying to spend big bucks on nice speakers and a matching amp only to hook them into an AV receiver? 🥴


    Lastly, in terms of Home Theater, what is most critical to me is adding a subwoofer for bass and also considering a center channel (budget permitting). I have a 10" monolith powered subwoofer I plan to use for now (I know it is probably not worthy of the LaScalas but I am broke now) and also some Klipsch fives I could cannibalize for surrounds perhaps. My main issue is that dialogue these days seems shoddy so I was hoping to add a center and don't know where to start. I read THIS from Paul but my bank account slapped me (and I have no room).  



    If you are going with a separate power amp, buy a pre/pro and do it all the way. 


    I'll recommend a high quality AVR.  Running Klipsch speakers, you will not push it hard enough to need or justify an outboard power amp.  Quality is important and won't be cheap, but just because it is an AVR doesn't make it inferior or unworthy.


    I use my system for 2 channel and HT, with all separates.  I use my pre/pro to switch video, too.  That is convenient and doesn't degrade the picture.  It will make integrating all your inputs into a system that is easy enough others can use it.  My lady friend can watch TV when I'm away from home without call me for help. 


    I use a modified Heresy (xover very similar to my La Scalas) as a center.  A Heresy IV may be the best center for you. 


    You should look at 2 or more subs.  Having gone from 1 to 2 to 4, I'll keep 4 if at all possible.  Four (many), reduces cone excursions making the distortion similar to my La Scalas.  Spreading them around the room fills in nulls a single sub will suffer. 


    • Thanks 1
  11. I had one pair with Type AL xovers.  The eq built in them caused a howling resonance in the range of a French horn.  My solution was a set of Al Klappenberger crossovers. 


    Type AL-3s will be your best bet.  You can convert your Type ALs.  There is enough difference in output between a K-55-M and -V that the vaunted Type AA is not a good match. 


    The K-77-M is a good tweeter.  As always, there is something better at higher cost.  If you want to replace them, try to get a later K-77-F that flush mounts the tweeter mouth, or Z brackets that do the same with your tweeters.  Should you decide to go with bespoke tweeters, be sure the horns have properly made exponential or tractrix horns.  The tractrix horn curve is a little better.  A K-77-? uses an exponential curve. 




    Flush mounting the tweeter eliminates some audible harshness from reflections.  Don't do what I did and disassemble the tweeters and reassemble them through the cabinet holes.  They might just fall to pieces in your hands!  It IS a way to improve the sound. 

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