JohnA
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Posts posted by JohnA
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Klipsch once would sell you original boxes for current production, but I don't think you should expect them to have old model boxes around.
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You are showing the voice coil as open? The visible damage would not cause an open voicecoil. However, a needle drop might do both. LOL!
*IF* you can find a correct recone, it will fix all your problems.
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Check the resistance of the woofer alone. Should be the same as the other one. Any K-33 will work. Crites Speakers has woofers built to match early K-33s. There have been small changes over the years. Optimum would be another K-33-J; check ebay.
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What a cluster! No. not for $50.
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I gotta ask, why do you think fans of ultra high fidelity sound reproduction would know what that sound is? And why you'd demand an answer from those that have no clue?
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Those aren't Belle Klipsch, named after Mr Paul's first wife. These are.
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On 6/1/2021 at 1:42 AM, Weltfaul said:
@PrestonTom
hi, thanks. Actually, it is not so much the desire to have tweeters at ear level as it is a feeling that the scene is a bit low. I am not missing detail.
It must largely be a psychological effect from seeing the Heresy on the floor though, because if I close my eyes all very centred musical data seem to come from a reasonable height between the speakers. I am aware that the Heresy was designed to sit on the floor. A mock up might be a good idea.
Max
@John A
Hi,
this is the kind of simple, effective design I was uselessly after... Thanks. If I should decide to intervene on what, after all, is the natural placement of the Heresy, this could be a feasible solution even for my very average skills in woodworking. This design would also allow applying the criterium as per 001's suggestion.
Max
@001
Thanks, I had considered this. As I might have already written, I wonder whether the tilt is thought to project the sound a little higher only, or phase alignment was a factor too.
M.
I'm not sure you could buy the materials for $27 each. I have a set. I sanded them the finished them with boiled linseed oil. they put my old H700s right where I needed them.
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You need 20 to 25 watts/channel. Maybe 50, if your room is Huuuuge. I like Yamaha, Marantz, Parasound, Integra and Acurus
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M7 is dark Mahogany.
B means a "riser" between the bass horn and HF section. That is the more modern look.
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Speaker power ratings at a lot like auto speed ratings. Just because your car will go 300 Km/hr doesn't mean you can or should. Just because a speaker can absorb 400 watts with exploding in flames, doesn't mean you should try, or need the capability. Avoid audible distortion at all times. Turn it down.
More important is the sensitivity (dB/watt) as long as you don't force too much power into a speaker rated for less (remember those flames).
A 50 watt amp will happily and safely drive a speaker rated for 1000 watts, but just not as loud as it could get. However, overdriving the 50 watt amp (distortion) can cause some speaker parts to overheat and fail, commonly tweeters. Otherwise, there is no need to match any amp to any speaker beyond quality. Certainly, power ratings should not be considered when "matching". It is Quality, Quality, Quality.
Buy the speakers you enjoy listening to the most. Buy enough power to get them as loud as you want in your room, without exceeding the speakers' power rating by a large margin (say no more then 2x the speaker rating).
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Mr. Paul does not need translating.
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On 5/1/2021 at 10:29 PM, Fast996 said:
I was reading about going from the AK2 crossover to the Ak3 configuration. I have some leftover Arizona capacitor 2uf 200vdc...question,is it safe to use the 200 v caps in the mid range position?
Yes.
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On 4/27/2021 at 4:40 PM, Fast996 said:
How a bought upgraded AK2 crossovers? Any consensus? Crites...ALK...North Reading or others. Thanks
Any of the crossovers after the Type AK is a good crossover. Any xover over 30 years old would benefit from new, high quality film and foil capacitors. Don't read too much into "approved items". We've been using high quality parts and getting commensurate results for many years.
Stick with xover designs made to work with your K-55-M squawker. There is a small difference in output over the older K-55-V, but enough to through off the midrange balance if you use an older A or AA (my preference) xover. There are ways to adjust an AA, but then you're into a lot of testing.
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On 4/27/2021 at 3:19 PM, Fast996 said:
Pardon my ignorance about Khorns...but I've been doing some reading on the web and came across this blurb....
It is well known (by everyone except Klipsch engineers apparently) that the Klipschorn, Belle Klipsch and La Scala all use the same undersized mid horn that doesn’t match well with the woofer. They switched from exponential horns to Tractrix (something Klipsch itself uses in newer designs) and use a very good BMS driver (big improvement over the Klipsch mid). The folded bass horn is of course straight up Klipsch but why mess with success (one of my favorite all time speakers, the JBL Hartsfield also uses a folded front loaded horn).
So is this opinion valid about the midrange or not accurate?
Completely inaccurate. Perhaps a version of the Jubilee used a BMS driver, but the Klipschorn, Belle Klipsch and La Scala didn't/don't (save maybe the newest tweeter). The Klipschorn and La Scala do use the same squawker horn, but it is far from undersized with a 240 Hz cut-off.
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If a cat did that to my new Cornwalls, I'd be looking for a chemical for some aversion therapy!
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You really need to change the 3.3 uF tweeter cap to 2.0 (2.2 OK) to tame a response hump in the K-77s from around 6k to 9k.
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Better to use one autoformer and a -1 dB L-pad, or a custom built autofotmer.
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John Allen's driver does test better. I think it is more audioneurotica to replace good, working K-55-Vs than anything else. When yours fail, or you drop one, buy the Allens.
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I did not change out the BW 1504-4 woofer in my FH-1s. The system was built for random users, outdoors, at my church and wanted it to be bullet-proof. Below about 70 Hz, there is more distortion than fundamental. It's easy to hear using sine waves, less so with music, as it fits in better. For inside use a K-33 would be an excellent replacement. A K-43, or Eminence equivalent, would be a good overall choice and allow higher power levels. JBL's 2226H is the balls to the firewall choice with its 600 watt capacity, but it is an 8 Ohm driver. I crossed it to a pair of Klipsch Pro subwoofers at 70 - 100 Hz and solved the distortion problem.
FH-1s will readily respond to 1200 Hz and required a 3rd order crossover to smooth the response at a 1000Hz crossover point. That made protecting my 902-8B on 511B horn easy, though.
If you can't find it, I will give you my crossover design. It is, however, driver specific.
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$4500 for LS3/5A? Oh, Heck NO! Not even with a gold brick ballast lump in the bottom.
Technology changes. New materials are developed or found. The new Heritage speakers sound better than the old ones ever did. Just flush mounting the tweeters and squawkers are an audible improvement.
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Well, I just LOVE mine. Klipsch gives good suggestions for placement.
Put on some dub-step at moderate levels and maybe even turn up the bass knob and shut them up in a room for 3 or 4 days straight and they'll be ready to rock. Initially, they are disappointingly thin, but after the woofer breaks-in, you'll find them to be accurate and pleasant to listen to.
LaScala Nashville need saved $400
in Alerts!
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Looks like flood damage. Save the K-400 and torch the rest.