iXtreme

I did and have found a way better solution. Looks way less cluttered, has more free movement and also allows for mounting of any type of speaker imaginable wether it be threaded stem or box type. You were the one who said you had a better idea but clearly it is not, sorry to sound rude. Not only is mine not wire tied to a bracket it was clearly not meant to be on, but mine also can be changed to accept the included plate for box speakers and has threaded stems for even keyhole speakers. nuff said.....

Kinda looks like crap though, too messy and clunky...

It seems almost everyone here has looked for the perfect speaker brackets for their ProMedia's before. Look no further as I've found them tonight. They may be a bit more then home made ones but their options outweigh building them yourselves. I'll quote some stuff off the package for your information. 210 deg. tilt and 360 deg. swivel. It has one hex key to set the entire tilt/swivel and best of all... the ball socket for the tilt has a disc on the end that is supposed to come in contact with the speakers bottom, it fits "perfectly" inside the channel left behind by the old foot mount they (promedias) came factory with. They are made by Monster Cable but I found a place where you can get them at closeout, way cheaper than MC sells em' for type pricing. The web page to see them is: http://www.monstercable.com/productPage.asp?pin=553 They are about half the price of MCs listing and in Canadian dollars. The come with everything needed to fit everything from threaded mounts to box speakers. Let me know if you guys are interested... This is not a sales pitch, just a guy who finally found the perfect mounts and wanted to share the info with you guys.

I'd like to share what I've just completed as it may help you here. I just finished my basement and it's looking good so far F.Y.I. I would not put any moisture blocking type finishes on the ceilings as they won't do much good there and are simply a waste of money. There are no sound absorbtion qualities in tar (felt) paper or plastic for that matter. That rubber membrane stuff they sell also has little absorbtion qualities. Remember, the fluffier the material the more it will potentially block. I did my ceiling in R20 insulation and it did make some difference in sound transmission especially for the price of the job. You will never block ALL the sound... a more realistic goal is cutting it about in half and thats extreme. The acoustical tiles are pretty good too but don't buy the exotic stuff as it won't stop the sound. The 2 X 2 tiles look better in the basement then the 2 X 3 or 2 X 4 ones I think you'll find. Nothing short of lead walls and ceilings would stop sound so spend carefully and don't expect miracles. Picture this, I have R12 in my basement walls, R20 in basement ceilings and R20 in all upstairs walls and if I play a tune in the basement and can hear it quite well outside so even all that insulation and building material dosen't stop it. As far as lights are concerned there should be plenty of light for the room for regular activities, but for movie watching the lights should be behind the screen (perhaps wall sconces) to avoid any glare on the screen. A soft light behind the screen is actually easier on the eyes then pitch black. My HT room is 24.5 X 14.6 and has 6 pot lights and 2 wall sconces and that works well for all occasions. Remember to also use alot of dimmers for the lights as that will give you more control as opposed to one dimmer for all lights. I have a dimmer on each pair of lights (4 dimmers) so I can set any mood I feel like. It's not very expensive, and trust me you'll appreciate it later. As well, dimmers with light electrical loads on them are less likely to hum while the lights are dimmed, even good quality dimmers do hum a bit. Look to Lutron's Spacer remote controlled series if you want to go real fancy but standard dimmers will do fine too. Don't buy the rotary models as they are prone to premature failure as it's a totally mechanical switch. Remember to wire for the future as well if the location will be hard to get at later. For example, if you have 5.1, then wire for future 7.1 so you have room to grow etc... Run extra phone lines and stuff before you sheetrock the walls. Easier then then later after you are all done. Subwoofer cables are hard to conceal after the fact so think about running them before you sheetrock and leave a foot of the cable hanging from the wall for hookup and that sort of thing. All in all, do what you really want as it's the room you'll have to live with for potentially a long time. Beter to plan ahead and run too much stuff before hand then wish you had later.... there are some things I wish'd I'd done but now it's too late Good luck and happy listening.

Here is the correct one..........

You all know how computer cases have badges and speakers have logos on the front/side whatever.... how about seeing your logos you've made for your home theaters. Maybe we do some sort of contest to see who has the best "original" meaning not copied from elsewhere logo. I'll start with mine for your viewing pleasure. I named my theater "Empires" based somewhat on music and movies. What do you guys have? Sorry about the crappy quality, it was a jpg... blech... below is the correct format for your viewing pleasure...

I have "dj'd" many a party with my 4.1's because they are so much easier to lug around than a big home set-up. That and they are cheaper if damaged than a home set-up. I would think if you had problems regarding warranty you'd best not tell them what they were doing when they died... if they did. Just keep it simple, they worked, they broke, you fix it kinda thing. Regarding using them for a gym they would hardly be loud enough to have any sort of good dance. Their bass output is almost too weak for an average room never mind a gym. The only thing I'd recommend is a table top fan blowing on the sub's back plate so it stays cool enough to run several hours at 80%+ volumes. The fan is a MUST.

HaHaHa, an internet tough guy. What exactly are you going to do to back up your "watch it!" comment? People like you make me laugh... you're kind of a joke really.... Here I am and I'm getting smart with you.... go ahead, do something about it. I dare ya...

HeHeHe, thats kinda funny but no, me no work for Klipsch. It would seem all people here who baby them also lose them. Spare the rod, spoil the child I guess. I am so hard on my 4.1's it's a crying shame. They still sound and work like new. Sub output is kinda whimpy and very often farty:) but always has been and so are all other "sub"woofers in the 6-1/2" range. All in all, it's been a great PC setup with only a few glitches but they fixed themselves with super high output and massive distortion. Simple to use and operate but I hate those silly 1/8" mono jacks. Gonna do some surgery to them and switch them to spring terminals. Mesa happy for almost 3 years now:). Look at my "member since" date. I had them for a while before that date. A few months or so if I remember correctly.

I was on Dolby's site and read an article on speaker placement in relation to viewer. They claimed the best set up is 45 degrees from prime seating position for movies and up to 60 degrees for music listining. If I'm not mistaken you'd either need to be sitting in a room that is about twice as wide as it is long or you'd need to almost be sitting on top of the T.V. for 45 degrees to be possible. Music set up would be even harder at 60 degrees. Does anyone have a 45 degree set up? I was wondering because my new HT room is 14 X 24 and I'd have to be like 5 ft. or closer to the T.V. to be 45 degrees from the front mains.

I am curious if anyone here has been as lucky with their pro's as I've been with mine? I must admit, I've been pretty hard on my pros. They have been taken to outdoor parties on many occasions where they end up finding themselves almost cranked up full. They've been in my basement too where they also find themselves as loud as they can go. The amp plate has been so hot I can barely touch it (very seriously hot)more times than I care to remember. After all this they still play flawlessly each and every time I sit at my machine. I am no easy listener and only cut back on the volume when the sub starts to flutter etc.... Anyone else have close to 3 year old pros that have been to h3ll's gates and back on many occasions and lived to tell about it. Lets let the people at klipsch know we thank them for such a rugged speaker as a whole... Man I beat these things up really badly. These things are tough. p.s. If these speakers needed bandaids for every time I hurt them mine would be dead and buried.

Ok, you turned on DTS on the receiver and on the dvd's menu.... are you sure your DVD player itself can pass a dts bitstream? Silly but that may be the reason....

Like you saw in my other post I'm not a fan of expensive cables. You're best bet if those connectors are faulty are to purchase new ones and solder them on. They can be had at Radio Shack. If you want pretty ones there are gold ones available, just make sure you get the "mono" plugs and not the "stereo" ones. It simplifies the procedure. For some reason the aftermarket ones seem to fit better into the socket. You could also just hardwire the buggers and end that problem entirely....

Has anyone ever heard of the Mosaic touch screen remote control? Any opinions on it or happy/sad purchasers of it? Need to know as soon as possible on it.

You have single handedly proven it dosen't pay to try and help anyone.

Man you make long posts...... lifes too short to read it all. I'm done here... I'll go get you a towel....

You still haven't commented on my repeatings in my posts. First is if you want better sound, get better equipment and second you haven't said anything about my test. What gives? You guys are so quick to attack, none of my posts attack anyone directly except the cable makers who rip people off, just simply state do what you like, spend what you like but.... (refer to bold text above). Attack all you like, I understand... your Americans. Hehehehe, there's a whole new can of worms all opened up..... lol..... Americans are great, just gonna drop some bombs and that'll take care of the new mess America is in. Next mess, more bombs, mess after that, more bombs...... This is fun... please reply to this one. I am having so much fun here.

bleh..... I keep tossin em, you keep missin em. bleh... if you want better sound, get better equipment....

I like how you think you "got one over on me" or something. Like I commented in my first reply on this topic, I TOO MADE THE MISTAKE OF CABLE PLACEBO and am hoping whenever I see someone else doing it or about to do it... maybe I can save someone some money, but you guys seem so rich you can afford it anyhow. At least I'm honest enough with myself to realize the lack of difference between the two wires. I used to believe in cables very very strongly but since I hooked mine up temp with stock for awhile I now know they were a waste of my money. Do what you like and spend what you like but remember if you want better sound... get better equipment. At least I know that my "upgrade" did not cost me anywhere near what you guys spent and it was a cheaper lesson to learn. You guys should really try my test honestly and see what comes of it. Or keep believing you honestly hear a difference with your pc speakers, I wish I had listened to that "someguy" a long time ago and went out to use that money originally for cables on better equipment. I'm going outside now to put bigger tires on my car because they'll connect better to the road and surely make my car go faster and if I add more washer fluid to the resevoir I'll get better bass too.

Not sure I follow you here. "I am a believer in placebo effect and maybe you did convince yourself into hearing improvements after spending "too much money on cables", how you felt about buying and installing the cable doesn't apply to everyone else." I didn't buy the cables guy... try to keep up here ok.... "Gotta hand it to the guy, he's fiercely confident in his decision.", what decision?" His decision that his upgrade made an actual difference. The next few parts don't make any sense at all, your not very coherent but such is life on forums. I need not make a case further than I have to you or anyone, just hoping I can save someone some hard earned cash on making a wasteful purchase. If you don't agree, thats fine... I honestly don't care..... but don't try to convince others to spend on wasteful things by your replys. My last comment is all that really matters... you want better sound, get better equipment. There is NO way to argue that. *edit* I just figured out why your so against what I'm trying to do here. You TOO wasted your money on the MC upgrade. Now that is funny! I'd love to see any of you guys with the "upgrade" sucessfully pass my test I mentioned earlier. Get someone to wire only one of your sats with MC and the rest with stock wires and when playing your favorite tune pick out the one that has MC while blindfolded so you don't accidently see the wires. You'd only pick it out if you had a lucky guess.

Gotta hand it to the guy, he's fiercely confident in his decision. No harm in being absolutely certain in ones opinions I guess. It's ok anyhow, I expected the people who've spent too much on cables to quickly defend themselves with someone elses techno babble and everyone is entitled to their opinions anyhow. I know what I read on my meter (0-100 ohm range) and what I saw with my own eyes (hazel brown) and that is all that is important to me here. If you really believe your "upgrades" have made a "sonic" difference then great for you, you can now justify your $59.99 (plus tax) purchase in your own mind. All those who want to look at things from a realistic view, don't waste money on cables. As long as the ones you have are not broken they will function as the manufacturer intended. I've learned my lesson... if you want better sound, get better equipment.....

One more thing, we have 1000 ft. wooden spools of old cat 3 wire at my work which is I believe 26 ga. I tested the resistance of the wire to see if distance makes a difference. I got a 0.00 on the multimeter over 1000 ft. Not even 1/100 of an ohm of resistance over that 1000 feet. I also powered up a 60 watt 12VDC bulb through one of the four twisted pairs with an old ATX 235 watt PSU and it ran just fine for about half an hour then I gave up my test. Cable did not even get warm during the test. This whole big gauge/better sound/long distances thing is a sham brought to us by the people who make the expensive wire. The "ONLY" benefit from the expensive cable is it looks pretty. Too bad it's buried behind equipment:).

My guess is the wire "upgrade" sound improvements are purely placebo effect from spending so much money on them. Believe me this DOES happen, I thought my wire upgrade helped alot with mids and highs till I set up my 4.1 system temporarily in my unfinished basement with the stock wires... guess what... same exact sound. You can put all the big gauge wire you want on between amp and sub but the sats still have like 22 or 24 ga. wire inside them and the wattage going thru the wires is so minimal a single strand of copper wire from those Monster cables would suffice. Homes use 14 ga. to pump out 1875 watts at 115V so 22 or 24 ga. for these promedias at it's 30 something "real" watts is just fine. The stock wires will sound exactly the same as any upgrade you may do. Do yourself a favor and save the money for something else. Sounds negative I know, but it's the truth. 24 ga. wire will have the same resistance of 0.00 ohms on the multimeter as will 2 ga. wire. Have someone hook up one of the four sats with monster and the other three with stock and see if you can tell the difference blind folded. You won't be able to unless you get a lucky guess.

A few quick things I have learned too: - Run an audio cable from potential computer location to the receiver for playback of MP3's and such from the computer. Great for parties. - If you have built in lights and plan to add dimmers to them, go easy on the load from the dimmer as heavily loaded dimmers can make an annoying buzzing noise. Especially if they are the cheaper kind of dimmer. The more dimmers you use, the better room ambiance you will have control over. - If you have satellite, run an extra coax cable from your unused cablevision service entrance (probably beside your panel) in case you decide to go back to cable. - Keep your loads on wall outlets lean so you can add to them if needed later or put a heavy load on them if needed without tripping breakers. - Keep TV on seperate circuit from room lighting as turning TV on will make lights flicker.... annoying if you have this problem like I did in my old house. - Insulate the walls, you'll be glad you did. Won't keep inside sounds from coming out as that is near impossible but will help keep quiter than your stereo outside sounds from coming in. - Sometimes it's easier to plan your room around your seating then the other way around. Seating is HUGELY important to having an enjoyable experience. - Be creative with sound controlling options. Bass traps are very expensive and can be matched quite closely with other means. See the attached pic of my theater in construction for an idea of what I mean. Look at the angles at the ceiling forming a rounded like corner. These are all around the room. I'll post if I think of anything else. Hopefully some of this gives you some ideas.

I know these are not Klipsch or the quality of them either but how are these for speakers? I need your opinions or whatever you can offer. www.zetagcorp.com