moray james
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Posts posted by moray james
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I understand that but you could use a top quality full range driver like this for your project, place a grill over the mini Khorn cabinet and install this behind it. That is unless you want a really tiny speaker then you could get a two inch full range driver but you will not get any bass response while these play as low as my H3 do though not as loud obviously. Just so you understand that you cannot scale a horn, the desired cut off frequency will determine the physical size so a tiny Khorn or Belle won't make any bass but you can make a tiny look alike Khorn using a direct radiator rather than a horn it will look the same but the direct radiator will make bass.
This tiny Tannoy DC (dual concentric,two way) driver is just a little over five inches across the frame so you have a sense of scale. With a horn loaded tweeter it is a two way which is exactly what Paul Klipsch always wanted the Khorn to be, trouble was for Paul he could never get the Khorn bass bin to go high enough to crossover to a domestically sized mid horn and so by necessity it turned into a three way design. Paul worked on the idea of a two way Khorn for decades until he and Roy Delgado came up with the Jubilee which was a two way horn system exactly what Paul had intended the Khorn to be.
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how about a real life Micro Tannoy Dual concentric the Revolution series XT Mini true Dual Concentric with a unique single magnet drive for bot the (3.25") woofer and horn loaded tweeter compression driver. Superb sound.
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8 hours ago, RagingBullWinkle said:
I sold my K-Horns and H-3s last week downsizing, looking at retirement soon. I bought and have not taken out of the box yet Warfdale Denton 85th more for size than anything else.
Looking to spend a fair amount of time in an RV, fingers crossed I can live with them.
Ha was I close or was I? I am now loving a pair of very well burned in Tannoy Revolution series XT Mini which are I think going to turn into my forever loudspeakers. I also have a pair of Tannoy XT6 which are larger than the mini and will play louder and lower but I am not sure I will need that as I plan to use subs and also because the XT Mini uses a 3/4" tweeter diaphragm while the XT6 (and other models in the line up all) uses a one inch tweeter diaphragm. I prefer the stage and image with the smaller tweeter diaphragm. I have been working on extracting all the level and bass extension from the XT Mini as is possible and I continue to make gains and I am most pleased even now. The first change I made was to switch the speakers operation to a sealed box using two 1 1/4" sink plugs for a couple of dollars, you loose the hump before roll off of the vent but gain about a good half octave of bass extension and you will never overdrive your speaker due to the vent unloading below its tuning frequency. I have built a custom set of stands for my XT Mini and I plan to re damp the cabinet with microfiber and upgrade the crossover parts. I am impressed with how they sound even now. I look forward to much further improvement to come. Have a great time in your RV. You may want to work on some room treatment to obtain the kind of sound quality that you have grown used to. Take care and have a Good Friday.
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2 hours ago, RagingBullWinkle said:
Came across this last night, the reviewer has and loves his H - IVs, but watch him gush over new KLH. I wonder if this will have an effect on future Klipsch pricing. Anyone here sample these?
if you are looking for an impressive alternate listen to the anniversary issue of the Warfdale Linton.
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3 hours ago, EpicKlipschFan said:
KG5.5 & other KG speakers & SW subs of that era use a push in spike/foot, they are not threaded like other models.
thanks for the information. you could try installing female 1/4-20 inserts into your existing holes and then you can use standard threaded /adjustable spikes or nylon glides.
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On 3/30/2021 at 2:43 PM, VitalyDon said:
Hello!
Anybody knows what's the thread standard for the KG 5.5 spikes?
6/16" or 5/16", or something else?
Thanks.try a 1/4"-20 just a guess on my part but most footers in America are that size.
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5 hours ago, ummagumma-89 said:
Absolutely Moray, I had thought of separating the woofer area from the mids and highs with a piece of foam, similar to how the heresy 2 came. I figure it would help divide up the cabinet and produce more pressure to the rad.
The best experiment I have had funny enough, was stuffing a bit of insulation behind the door and head speakers in my 95 chevy. Along with my 8 inch vented sub. It originally had polyfil and the fyl was blocking the port. I Replaced the polyfil with insulation and left space for the port, it is night and day 20 times better to my ears. Even the door speakers and head level 4x6's are absolutely amazing now. Never seen the dinky woofers move untill I glued some insulation behind the speaker magnets. They are some jvc gto 4x6's, anyways they sound great now. A great experiment to learn with.
Thanks for the screw hole trick too, The tangents are starting to get upset with me being in and out of the speaker cavitys. Great idea
no don't block off the top area of the cabinet as I said you could place some foam on the underside of the top and then between the foam and the scattering diffraction of the horn you will scatter and damp (at the same time) any out of band lower mid coming off the woofer which finds its way up to the top of the cabinet. Your crossover is around 750 Hz so at 1500Hz those frequencies are only 12 db down in level. Keep the resonating volume as open and large as you can as that makes for a stronger resonance and you need that resonance to form a powerful resonance which will couple the woofer to the vent or passive, the stronger that resonance the more volume of air you have coupling the vent and the woofer together the better.
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6 hours ago, ummagumma-89 said:
Thanks moray, This was how they came from factory. improving this type of system seems complicated, only willing to experiment with dampening and where it should go.
well if what you want to do is to catch the out of band woofer response which is a good idea then you could place a 3/4" piece of open cell foam on the bottom of the cabinet on the sides from the bottom to about 4I past the top of the woofer and on the back from the bottom up to the same height as on the sides. You might experiment with a piece to cover the top to see if that helps. The horn body and motor will act as a diffusor up in the top of the cabinet which is a good thing (so will any installed brace work). This is a good experiment for you and will help to educated your ear. You can't do anything which will cause a problem to the loudspeaker and you can back track any change that you make back to where ever you liked the sound best. Don't obscure a passive or a vent with damping or put any damping into a vent tube. You can experiment with this to learn just what it dose there is no harm other than to decrease the performance of the passive or vent. If any of your woofer or passive mounting screw holes get loose (won't tighten up) all you have to do is to get some of the flat softwood tooth picks and some white wood glue. fill the loose screw hole with white wood glue and stuff in a tooth pick or two both pre wet with glue into the screw holes let set 15 minutes then trim off any part of the then tooth pick sticking out of the hole. The screw will easily compress the wood of the tooth pick into the compressed mdf or plywood of the cabinet and the glue will soak into the surrounding wood firming it up. The glue will not bond to the screw and will be easy to remove later. Hope this helps. Happy experimenting.
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On 2/23/2021 at 9:09 AM, Ray_pierrewit said:
The woofers are original alnico which appear to have been repaired as there was a service sticker on one of them. By all accounts the original foam on these woofers were prone to rotting completely. Mine are in good condition so I presume the surrounds had been replaced. Here is a photo from the net which are identical to mine.
just a comment. For the ongoing usefulness of any thread it is best to attach drawings or photos directly to the thread rather than including a link as links very often go dead leaving the thread missing useful information. Many search archives looking for information and it is nice when it is there to find years or decades from now.
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Remember that it is the reflex vent (or a passive radiator which amounts to the same action) which damps the woofer in the cabinet. Any additional damping material is going to be in there for other reasons such as catching upper out of band response from the woofer which you don't want singing inside of the cabinet and or leaking out through the vent (here is where a passive works in your favor as it filters out some of the out or band response through the passive cone) and last to gain some apparent cabinet volume. You also want to remember that with a reflex cabinet you must have an open volume of air (with zero damping material, this applies to reflex vents as well as passive radiators) which is free to go into resonance, this is what connects the woofer to the vent so the system can work. You can have some damping on the walls but that is only going to be there to catch and diminish some of that out of band woofer response I mentioned. I hope this helps.
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On 3/20/2021 at 2:34 AM, Sidevalve said:
Waiting to hear back from Bobby Crites about restoring both of my crossovers. After twenty years they could use a rebuild.
Bob just recently passed away rest his soul. Bob's son Michael will be happy to help you.
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15 hours ago, Oicu812 said:
I was mainly making a joke. Other people got it. But not everyone is the same, I guess.
I'm sure other people got it.
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1 hour ago, Oicu812 said:
I think it was all of the brass screws and washers looking random on the motor board. It just looks sloppy to my eye. On the back they "countersunk" screws without actually using the proper techniques. Just ram them home, as deep as you can with a drill. Nothing looks aligned properly in my opinion.
I'm sure it's functional, but it would bother my OCD.
Ok thanks. Still to me the build looks a lot better than many of the home spun diy jobs I see posted on this site from time to time.
Baffle screws can be changed and counter sunk to improve visuals after the fact, that's not very much of an issue if it really bugs someone. The wood screws look to be well placed and not at all random and he used lots so this will be a solid cabinet. Given they come with parts that sell for more than stock ones would I don't think the asking price is much out of line (if lots of CW sell in this area then the asking price is going to be seen as high). I understand lots of folks don't want clones but if that is not an issue and they are well built as they seem to be lower offers could always be made citing the non original build to possibly leverage a better sale price. Remember also that lots of guys buy beaters and then refurbish them (these look pretty good as is). The market place will determine the value of these as it usually does. Should any members be close enough for an audition please let us know what you think about the fit finish and sound of these Cornwall clones.
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4 hours ago, Biscuit said:
I can now confirm that this was the noise. Fixed now. Thanks all for the advice, and input and pics!
that's good for you. Make sure that you glue the screen back over the pole piece vent hole (where it came from) or your speaker will have different characteristics from all the others.
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On 3/18/2021 at 10:29 AM, Oicu812 said:
They are home built cabinets. And the blind carpenter that built them should be flogged before the keelhauling.
I have no interest in these loudspeakers. I have looked at the photos and the cabinets look better than lots I see for sale used. So tell me what is it that you see that looks so bad to you? There is veneer on the edges of the cabinets, many Klipsch are raw ply edges all around, the back has veneer that's a bonus, over all it looks like a competent build to me.
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7 hours ago, carlthess40 said:
I thought it was a 9volt battery
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1.5 volts on a tweeter is more than enough to make a clear click.
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pull the quiet tweeter out and check it with a 1.5 volt battery, do a simple click test with a couple of short lengths of wire to see if the VC is ok. See what you find.
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they are solid ply construction not sure if brace work has been added or not but the parts are good and the box is good not out of line and pricing is always a regional thing. I have seen a lot worse go for more. Well worth a look and a listen they may take less you never know if you don't ask.
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There is a joke tape of a guy who says he got the Chinese vaccine and saying that he has had no side effects from the shot but while he is speaking he slides from an American accent into a thick Chinese accent. Funny. I can't find a copy of this. Does anybody have a link? I heard an audio only of this so not sure if there is any video to go with the audio. Thanks. Important to be able to retain a good sense of humor.
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There is a joke tape of a guy who gets the Chinese vaccine while saying that he has had no side effects from the shot but as he is speaking he slides from an American accent into a thick Chinese accent. Funny. I can't find a copy of this. Does anybody have a link? I heard an audio only of this so not sure if there is any video. Thanks. Important to be able to retain a good sense of humor.
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2 hours ago, Chief bonehead said:
You can do whatever you want to do to your klipsch speaker. The speaker was designed and produced with a certain spec in mind. Once you put in something that is not klipsch approved then it is no longer a klipsch speaker. I really don’t understand why this is so hard to comprehend
You are 100% correct. my comment was made because the guy who was looking to play with his speakers was being told over and over that he would no longer have a stock Klipsch loudspeaker which ought to be obvious right from the get go as you said. A one time reminder in a thread ought to be all that is necessary for a first time modifier given many are also concerned with resale value in which case they should only make changes which are reversible and then they can reverse the speaker back to stock to sell the loudspeakers and part out the upgrade parts or keep them to use in another project. Everybody wins everyone is happy new owners get to hear stock Klipsch which I think is great and very much worth while for all concerned. I know I would rather purchase stock used Klipsch and do my own work as I see so many botched jobs and I don't want to spend my time and money fixing someone else's ideas of what needs to be done and or shoddy workmanship.
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it is always a very good idea to take a sharp pencil and scribe a circle on the cone around a dust cap and add a short stroke across the flange of the dust cap and on to the cone so you can perfectly re align it when the time comes, you can also number the dust cap and cone so you know which cap goes where later.
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3 hours ago, Outrider 6 said:
Thanks for all of this, but especially for the dialogue on ports vs passive radiators. I just assumed if the choice was for an industrial style cabinet, then it was also a choice for ports rather than passive radiators.
ports are obviously a lot cheaper than passive radiators are and with a pro cabinet there is usually room for ports on the back side of the cabinet if the front baffle is taken up with woofers and horns. Pro rigs generally have more available space so vent location is less of an issue unless you are talking small clubs so you will find small pro cabinets with front mounted vents. I like to have vents on the rear of the cabinet where possible but this will depend on the individual room. Rear vents do a better job of hiding upper bass frequencies which may escape via vents and it also covers vent chuffing better than front placement. I had one pair of KLF20 I upgraded for my daughter during her university days living in smaller rental accommodations I placed the vents on the front of the cabinet so placement would be easier and open up more available floor space since the speaker could be placed close to the front wall if necessary. On my other two sets of KLF20 I left the vents on the rear of the cabinet. It all comes down to trade offs and your priorities.
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\
Long Island Klipsch Dealers 1980’s
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
welcome aboard.