moray james

the bottom cabinet looks like a Peavey FH1 if so that is a better cabinet than a LaScala go check then out.

I built four double driver units in total, I made one in a ripol fashion with the drivers face to face and in the other three the two drivers were nested with the magnet on one tucked into the cone of the other. The first ripol version was for two twelve inch units and was not overly solid, it was simply a proof of concept the other three were solid and built with 3/4" baltic birch, two I built for a friend (he supplied the expensive birch ply) and I made one for myself these were all with dual 12" drivers. The cabinets which I built were designed to be physically as small as possible. I decided that a 15" would be a better minimum driver size than a 12" and I think a 18" would be better than a 15". My friend is very pleases he still uses his mine is on a shelf right now as the amp I had to drive it got sick and I wanted to build larger driver version. I was and am also interested in adding more volume (cabinet) to tune the woofer as Scott did but I don't have the space any longer for subs that large so I am coasting. I liked the sound, it is very natural and you can forget it is there until some low passage happens and reminds you. I think compared to a ported design this method is more realistic sounding than the other subs I have had in the past (vented and T-Line) They were seemingly more impactful but in comparison they were more "one note" sounding. I think that a larger woofer and one with more peak to peak than I used would make up for the slight lack of impact I that experienced but the weight and depth/bass extension is there and the bass is well controlled and articulate. A clean well behaved sound overall. I hope this helps.

a curved compartment will fill in a little more volume than just filling the corners what ever winds up being the most convenient build method for you should be fine.You end up having to be open on one side I thought a squared off compartment would probably be the easiest to work with but what ever idea works for you. Looking forward to your results. ScottL at Audioasylum has built a number of PPSL woofers I have only built three, you might give him a ping.

You can reduce the plenum volume by filling in the corners inside of the plenum at the back. The depth of the plenum sets the resonant frequency so larger woofer means a lower resonance and a narrower bandwidth. Keep the drives as close as is comfortable for you to maneuver inside to bolt them down. You could also contrive in include corner blocks in the front after the drivers are installed.

a K79 is the tweeter in a Forte and Forte ll a Chorus a Chorus ll a CW ll a KLF20 or KLF30 the Tangent speakers and on and on. Numbers change between models but the part is the same diaphragms may vary most were phenolic a few were poly now they are Titanium.

Raise your Forte up so that the centre of the mid horn is at your seated ear level (usually around 41" up off the floor depending on you height and seating). PWK said it best when he said that "we live in the midrange" but don't forget that god lives in the details.

I believe that the H2 came into production in late 1985 I had a pair of H that were built in 1985 toward the end of the year they still had the K77 tweeter but they were very much similar to first H2 which switched to the K79 as used in the Forte(s) and the Chorus(s) (and later the CWll) to name a few. H were voiced for tube amps and H2 were voiced for SS amps.

Edmonton south of the river has some really nice older residential communities. Have fun choosing.

have you decided where you will move to in the south?

Great that's all we need is bicentenary beer farts!

you are most welcome and it's good to have you as a new member at the forum as well. While your phenolic diaphragms (tweeter and mid) will sound just fine at thirty years of age your crossover capacitors will not. You should upgrade them at the least to new Daytons or similar if you have the funds find some film and foil caps, I believe Dayton have some for your mid and hi section and you will be more than pleased that you did.

Yes I have switched from stock Klipsch phenolic to Bob Crites phenolics and then to the Klipsch Titanium diaphragms available only from Simply Speakers. I also own the K52H Hepner phenolic diaphragms. To answer you directly I though that the Crites phenolic diaphragms sounded better than the stock Klipsch phenolic diaphragms. I consider them to be a worth while upgrade and would recommend them to anyone who likes the sound of phenolic diaphragms very smooth sounding. A non damaged phenolic diaphragm at thirty years of age ought to sound just fine I would not consider the age an issue at all.

I am surprised that these have not been grabbed yet by some member here. Superb parts and build. A fine looking set of custom loudspeakers. Somebody make a home for these.

your mom never stopped loving you just as you won't stop loving her. What you have together is something that will last forever.

If your baffles are still solid then you have a good set so not to worry. Having bad adhesive really makes doing a retro install of braces so much easier as both front and rear baffles can be easily removed and braces can be installed wood to wood (removing the melamine) with all the room in the world to work. Much better than working through the woofer cutouts.