moray james

some brace work is going to be better than no brace work, this is minimal so don't expect a big difference. ferrofluid can have more or less impact upon driver damping (internal resonances) depends on the driver. The correct viscosity would be required and you don't know what that was so you are in the dark. A generic shot in the dark will at the least provide some extra heat transfer. Get some and try it, if you like it leave it in if you don't remove it.

it's ice at the outer edges!

Why don't you have a look see for a pair of Peavey FH1 cabinets, it's a better horn and a better cabinet (a tiny bit larger). It's not very likely you will beat the $200.00 price but if you can find them local that would make all the difference.

RIP Dave and condolences to the Mallette family.

The first 47 characters say it all thank you, "you can do what ever you want to your Klipsch speaker".

that's reproducing harmonics only everything over 6KHz. now imagine if you improved all the fundamentals and upgraded the mid?

no that's a deal! (the round ones are hard wood the flat one are soft wood)

Those horns should never be shipped with the drivers mounted to the horns. you can repair them.

Best keep a ball lock in that hitch if you want to keep your camper.

a used pair of Peavey SP1 but at the age they all are now a xover re cap will be manditory. be careful they will spoil you as they are better than a La Scala.The CH1 horns were designed by a couple of engineers who had left Electro Voice after Don Keele left EV. They are the real deal but they can be found for peanuts.

I can tell you right now that 36" won't happen as Noel does not have packaging that size and shipping revolves on how the carton is packed. Folks almost never consider this and a custom pack is simply not worth it. I can tell you that you are not likely to find a better pack job for a pair of speaker stands, Noel has it down to a science.

https://www.skylanstands.com/ under my H3

looks like some sort mutant embryo face huger from an Alien movie. all kidding aside yes jumper wires with spade and or banana connectors are to be preferred to the stock flat plate factory jumpers.

if you have adhesive issues then you will (or do) have issues with both the front and the rear baffles as both are installed with the same hot melt adhesive. If you plan on taking them apart then do yourself a favor and repair both baffles all in one process and don't wait to repeat later on when the other baffle starts to make noise. You should remove the melamine from the baffles (not hard to do) at the glue joints and then you can bond with white wood glue (PVA) which will last forever and be far stronger than the original hot melt joint. You should install brace work while they are open (also remove the melamine to bond brace work). I have rebuilt two pairs of the three I have owned including swapping the vents from the rear to the front on a pair I built for my daughter while she was away at school in smaller quarters, the front vents allowed her to place them close to the walls to save space when it was at a premium. I regret that I did not flip the position of the mid and the tweeter by cutting off the top of the front baffle and flipping around as this will place the mid horn closer to your seated ear level. Hope this helps