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moray james

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  1. moray james

    Peavey CH1 biradial horns

    Shaun I have one person who is considering to have UPS ship them He is not sure about pricing if he changes his min then you are next in line. Give your brother in law a call and see if he is willing. I forgot to mention I have a pair of Peavey SP1 Mk lll two way crossovers for these. I want $50.00 CND for the pair of these if anyone out there is interested.
  2. moray james

    La Scala Variant

    this is not much different from a Peavey FH1 and it is not going to get you very much lower (a few Hz only) than a LaScala. If you want bass extension look to a either a University or a Beck California. fh1_002.pdf
  3. moray james

    Peavey CH1 biradial horns

    I would bet that Peavey sold more SP1 combo than all the LaScala Klipsch ever sold then there are the separates Peavey horns, they should not be hard to find in one of the versions they came in. It is a very long way between calgary and florida and our shipping is much more expensive than yours is in the states. Have a good Thanks Giving and check Craig's list from time to time. Thanks for posting.
  4. moray james

    Peavey CH1 biradial horns

    Guys I have a pair of large Peavey CH1 horns. These were designed by three ex EV designers who took on with Peavey after working with Don Keele Jr. at Electro Voice. The horns are an excellent example of Don's work and are a wide band design designed for use with a one inch standard screw on compression driver and can be used from 500 Hz up. These are a smaller version of the famous EV Great White Shark Horns. I am looking to find a home for these locally as I don't want to get into the job of packing them. I bought these off of Claude here on this forum and he did a great job of shipping them to me in Canada all the way from America they cost a lot to ship. I have enjoyed them now I simply need smaller loudspeakers. I am only looking for a local pick up and I am only asking a token sale price of $50.00 CND for the pair in very good condition. I have attached pictures which are not mine and are so those not familiar can see what they are . You will have to look on line for exact specs though they measure approximately 28.5"x14.5"x18.5 deep. If there are any local members who are interested please send me a PM to arrange pick up.
  5. Guys my diy project list has changed and I have some horn sets that need a good home. These are brand new in box 11.5" (listened to but never built up/used otherwise) square with 1 inch one inch screw on mount constant radiation horns both 90x40 dispersion horns. One set is a Dayton#H110 these are thick glass filled polycarbonate the second pair are Pyle Pro Series PH12S and these are thick ABS resin also one inch screw on mount. Both sets are available free no charge local pick up only to a builder in my area. These wide band horns are suitable to make either an excellent mid horn in a three way or better yet a two way version of a Heresy, Forte or even a Chorus. If you are interested send me a PM. I listened to both designs (they are virtually identical) and they sound the same and I could not detect a difference between the two sets of horns. I tested them on my CF3 set up and also in a Heresy set up where I much preferred them to the K701 I compare them to as they have a much lower cutoff and they hold polar patterns to a lower frequency. As a two way you will of course need to use a wide band one inch driver. I have several sets of Klipsch K52 drivers if anybody wants any very good mid drives to fit these. Those would not be free but I am sure we could work something out. I only have so much storage available and need to thin out the herd so lend me a hand. Location calgary alberta canada
  6. moray james

    CF-3 $400.00 Wow Vegas

    Go Go Vegas Gadget Go!!! somebody here get those now, it a good bet.
  7. moray james

    Chorus II How to Power

    while the stock Chorus/Chorus ll does not extend quite a low as a stock Forte/Forte ll they can be re tuned to get very close and with two or more hundred watts of amplifier power per channel I think that they take the cake for sheer fun factor and excitement/magic of the Klipsch loudspeakers I have heard. The extra power is not about play back volume/level, you can make Chorus play very loud with 20 - 50 watts a side rather it is about woofer control and dynamics They were designed for power, they are not a Cornwall which can sing with a small SET amp. If anyone wants to use a 3/4 watt to a 3 watt SET and be in heaven then a CW (or other Heritage model) is the way to go. If however you want to chase live dynamics and playback levels (and you are prepared to feed them) the Chorus will not disappoint. I have not had the opportunity to hear the Crites Cornscala D but I expect it to be a thoroughly superior design especially if you listen in the near field (10 - 13 feet away from the speakers) it will easily outshine a three way under those conditions. With a superior modern horn design and driver compliment when compared to Klipsch's offerings given the tried and true CW reflex cabinet design it should be a winning loudspeaker. As always YMMV.
  8. moray james

    Chorus ii v Heresy iii

    when you build your new Chorus cabs with 1" baltic birch ply make sure that you provide some extra room for brace work especially on the back panel If you can place a central vertical brace (2.5" wide x 1" thick on edge) on the sides the top and a couple on the back. Place horizontal braces like this below and above the woofer between the woofer and the mid horn and do your best to tie all the braces together with 1x2. You will have a cabinet which with minimum materials will be extremely rigid and flex proof. Enjoy. over size the box and you can lower your tuning by 2 - 3 Hz. stock tuning has the cabinet down 3db at 39 Hz IIRC so shoot to make the F3 about 36-37 Hz.. Line your cabinet walls with a good safe damping material like that blue jeans damping material to catch the high end response of the woofer as that can bounce and reflect through the woofer cone and out of the vents. Set the cabinets up so the mid horn is above the tweeter to get some more height you will still be less than a 1/4 wave away from the woofer at crossover so you won't suffer any sonic down side and as a bonus you will pick up a little bit of time alignment between the tweeter and the mid for free. Target to have the centre of the mid horn at your seated ear level and you should be a happy camper.
  9. moray james

    Crites Cornscala Cabinet Treatments

    I would suggest that the boom is a placement issue not a problem with the loudspeaker they are a time honored reflex design and are perhaps the favorite among Klipsch speakers for bass quality especially impact the only other Klipsch which has such great impact is the KG5.5. The reflex vent is what damps the driver/cabinet system resonance. Leave the box alone and play with the placement that should get you where you want to be.
  10. moray james

    My experience with Klipsch KLF20

    forgive me I had a senior moment combined with a brain freeze when I said Epic I was think KLF. The KLF cabinet carcass are nor assembled with hot melt but some other adhesive and the carcass is very strong as it is mdf to mdf. The problem as mentioned is with the no stick properties of the nice looking textured Melamine laminate used on the front and the back baffles. That was what the special hot melt adhesive was developed for and it worked well enough but the company shipped a bad batch of the hot melt glue to Klipsch who then built a load of speakers with it and the rest is history.
  11. moray james

    My experience with Klipsch KLF20

    this is not exactly correct. The problem with the Epic series was with a defective hot melt adhesive and these problems showed up immediately and were for the most part dealt with by Klipsch in short order. Klipsch also sued the adhesive manufacturer as they replaced the defective units or most of them with new units with non defective hot melt adhesive. The subsequent Epic production was not an issue. Adhesive issues did not impact the cabinet carcass (top,bottom and sides) but rather the baffles (front and back) because they are laminated with Melamine which is like a low tech non stick surface. The adhesive manufacturer developed a hot melt adhesive specifically for bonding the Melamine laminated baffles to the carcass. So if you have adhesive issues with one baffle you can expect to also have issues with the other baffle(s). If you are going to take your Epics apart then you may as well take advantage of the opportunity to include some brace work and kill two birds with one stone.
  12. moray james

    Chorus II How to Power

    To the OP; you know that you can go to a pro music shop and rent a 500x2 power amp for a day or two for very little money then you can see what some power can do with your loudspeakers.
  13. moray james

    Best Cornwall....?

    there are ways to install screws into MDF which will be secure but generally yes I agree with you, I would rather drop a screw into Baltic Birch ply than into MDF because it is easier to have it stay put under extreme stress conditions. That said MDF can be used and you can achieve excellent results if you build accordingly. The vast majority of loudspeakers are made with MDF. Pro cabinets are made with ply because it is much lighter and is much more resilient to impact which is very important for a mobile system. As Dave A mentioned plywood is much more resilient to moisture and pro gear can be exposed to both rain and or snow or damp storage conditions where a ply construction would be the best choice.
  14. moray james

    Best Cornwall....?

    the MDF is veneered with wood veneer on both sides to keep it stable like any ply it must be symmetrical and ideally the veneers used should be the same wood or have similar characteristics of expansion and contraction.
  15. moray james

    KD-17 passive woofer in Chorus II’s?

    Hey no problem, you are entitled to your opinion. I asked again though just to know if you had any first hand experience with this type of modification and if that had any impact upon your conclusion? I think that's ok one way or the other but I am curious as to how you came to your conclusion. The way the manufacturer adjusts a passive to their desired purpose is to adjust the weight of the passive, heavier to lower and lighter to raise the tuning frequency each unit having a functional range. A 3 - 4 Hz adjustment is as I said as much as I would normally make sometimes I only shift it by 2 - 3 Hz and only after experimenting to see how the system responds. I have never had a passive self destruct nor seen one that has but anything is possible. I suppose that you could lower the tuning frequency and that you could also drive the system to the point where the passive was not happy but I can assure you that long before you did any damage that you will have a noticeable warning that the system was being pushed past its comfort zone. This is not unlike people claiming that to remove the poly switch in a KG speaker puts the tweeter at risk. Yes it does but not in the way that is generally implied. Remove the poly switch and you gain clarity and detail the trade off is that you do need to be aware of your playback level (you simply cannot turn up the wick as far as you like with impunity) and that your available playback level will be a little bit lower after the poly switch is removed than it was before but a similar situation arises in that before you blow up a tweeter VC in KG which has had its poly switch removed you will have pushed the speaker to the point where audible distress has been reached and then sustained or passed in order to fry your tweeter. So if a person were not sure of where that point is then I would suggest they not make that modification. I think that is just good common sense. Not everyone knows where this is I have worked with a professional sound engineer who frequently push banks of tweeters until they died even after I pulled them down he would push them back up. That said most people can learn where that point is and then back off the volume control. Yes I have blown up a component up and I learned much from that experience that is how we learn our best lessons. So you kind of need to self regulate whenever you modify something or design something on your own and I agree that is not for everyone. Most all of the modifications I do are reversible and are generally safe but they will void your warranty. I don't have a problem with that even with new gear but that is my choice and each of us need to make those decisions based upon their own experience and good judgement. We learn where our limits lie and work with our own abilities.
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