DANGERDAN

Had it with me at our old house when we had ceiling speakers installed, they never used this but left it in the equipment room partially wired. Iv since then had it and thought it was a noise filter which was intended because of the long line runs in the ceiling and the power cables up there which may have caused interference. Looks custom made too.

My new Rotel amp arrived yesterday and i have been running some test's for a while, so far i am enjoying them. I have to say though my Marantz amp was pretty good considering it was class D but there was still a big change, not only deeper but more accurate bass, nicer mids with more perceptible difference between instruments instead of them just sounding partially mixed. I also notice i didn't have to go as heavy with my equalizer but my current DAC needs to be updated and with it i reckon i will not need to use EQ, i am not a believer in it and wish to be rid of it. One thing i have to try is a better suited room, i always say you don't try make speakers fit a room that you make the room fit your sepakers and as it stands my room is not suited for these puppys.

Just to note on that is more speakers + more surface area does not always mean better sub level frequency response. If you had 50 or even 100 5" speakers a quality 12" subwoofer will always out perform, in saying that the rf 63/83's better low end performance has possibly more to do with its larger polarity flex depth and higher quality components. Same goes with a RF 82 II vs RF 83 comparison, they both have the same driver size and on closer inspection look the same as well but the RF 83 have higher quality component design and better enclosure creating a much larger performance difference.

lol, I can't get it to post. it's a less than sign, p after, with a greater than sign. I hope this makes sense, it won't let me type it out. Yes i know what you mean, html coding and such. Thanks now lets try it. test well seems to work yay!.

Nope windows forever, after apples actions recently even the little amount of faith i did have is lost. I did hear when i first joined this forum that there were problems with paragraphs for some and there was a trick to fix.

Yes that is true. Hey how do you create new paragraphs in this forum ??.

Yes this is possible and why there are adjustable crossovers to account for things like this, a sub and a speaker may be able to reproduce a certain frequency but one usually can do better than the other so its natural to set the crossover towards the one that does. However Willand you have to remember with the RF63's when you get down lower with these speakers the frequency response starts to drop off, sure the speakers are rated as low as 30hz but it actually starts to drop off around 60hz and decreases in SPL output. So i don't know if the speakers would actually do better that low in the frequency range, any speaker can theoretically rotate at low frequency's but you need more polarity shift and larger cone surface to induce a sound that's perceivable. Naturally a larger cone surface will have a better chance at hitting lower and 10" cone should range well between 30hz - 100hz but of course there are more things that factor in the final output not just the cone size so its not always that simple. EDIT: how do you make new paragraphs on this forum, mine seem to just cluster together ? haha.

Yes i do remember reading a engineer report about the rf63/83 and he said technically each speaker individually was capable of reaching as low as 40 hz but together the frequency range was increased to that 29 hz ball part.

Hahaha sure thing bud xD.

This is a possibility http://www.belcantodesign.com/Belcanto_DAC2_5_Digital_Audio_Converter.htm Would be good as i could use it for my headphones as well as i use my computer for both personal use when im at the desk and then as the music source.

If i understand you correctly you mean you changed the positive and negative cables backwards (possibly as you don't know) then yes this can affect the performance as this changes the polarity( this is called 180 degrees out of phase) and the speaker cone is now pushing air behind the speaker instead of in front like it was designed to do. This messes up how it was designed both the speaker and the enclosure, so it is important to have the correct polarity. IMO youd want the fronts higher like 80hz crossover as the sub (depending on what you have) should produce that frequency more easily and better, then with surround if they are all bookshelf speakers which i can see are you want them at 80 or even higher maybe even 120 as they have smaller drivers and less bass response.

This is debatable but yes his amp is more than likely the reason for increased bass response, this is because his amp is most likely high current which is really good for when low impedance dips hit at low frequency's. Low frequencies require more power and a amp that can handle low impedance otherwise you will get dampened response like what you experience, this is the same experience i had faced with a lot of receivers.

I am not familiar with audyssey eq's, could you post the model of what you have ?. If you are referring to the SPL level matching settings within the amp then increasing this will most likely not help because if it is indeed clipping/distortion then it will still distort at the same sound pressure output with it just showing a higher number on the volume indicator

The zone 2 pre outs only work with analogue signals and when digital is present apparently it does not work at all, also would you not need multiple pre out's if you want to run 5.1/7.1 discrete channels for movies and such or are you wanting 2 channel across all speakers for music ?.

All i meant was that more power does not necessarily mean better, so if your system is distorting then yes you would need more power. Make sure you don't mistake clipping for noise too.

On top of that i agree with scrappys post.

Im no expert but i have had my fair time with research and practice, more power doesn't really mean better and that goes especially for klipsch as they are super efficient speakers and require so little power to run. But there is such a thing as quality power as speakers are not like devices or machines which require a certain amount of power to funciton and that's the difference. Currently i am running a 80 watt Marantz and the speakers roar at 20 percent of the full volume capable from the amp, now the amp only provides what the speakers need and just because the amp is 80 watts does not mean its feeding that 24/7. Realistically depending on what you are playing at the time and how loud it is, it is dynamically changing all the time but i am probably only feeding the speakers 20 watts or so. Now if i were to redesign the same amp with the same architecture but just increase the power supply to make the amp capable of 200 watts per channel it will more than likely do nothing, there will probably be less distortion and THD because the amount of stress has been reduced and the amp manages to produce the same power as before but much more easily. BUT STILL same power being fed and no real increase in audio quality. (debatable). Rant over. So it brings me to what does. Easiest way without knowing too much if a amp is good quality is by weight but its not the only factor in the equation. With receivers i am not a big fan if you are wanting the best quality as most are class D's and on the top of my head i don't know any that do them in class A/B, there is nothing wrong class D's but only if they are done right and generally that requires a more complex design to reach adequate levels. Class A/B are linear architecture which processes the signal in a more pure form rather than class D where there is some type of digital processing PWM (pulse Width Modulation) but they are not digital which i think some mistake for. Any way if you want better quality then you must look at amps that are quality in design, things like discrete components and fully differential design, High current output, Damping factor and much more. With receivers they are good if your after something to power home theatre (multiple speakers) which is mostly dedicated for Movies rather than Music as the multi channel experience will probably give you more bang for buck than looking for something to boost the quality of the audio. Now looking at these types of amps will be expensive so looking for receivers is usually the best option for people who don't intend to spend big money and this is ok so long as you know what i have said about the differences. Now like i said i don't dislike class D's i just prefer not to if i don't have too but there are nice receivers out there where they don't hold back on quality and produce some nice sound, now i have heard a few rcvrs before and this is my experience with them and my klipsch speakers but take this with a grain of salt as there are plenty of new and different amps from these brands which may have been improved from ones that i have heard before. Iv heard a couple of Denon amps, Dull sound with no real power to the outputs but classy. Yamaha have always been harsh with my speakers and i am sure i have seen others with the the same opinion and never really match well with klipsch. Onkyo have always been nice with my speakers and i always hear great things about them with not just klipsch but other branded speakers. Marantz have been my choice of receivers as they seem to use better quality components and design but tend to be a little expensive for some. I have not heard any others so cannot provide any more information than that, i hope i helped and i know its long but i was bored. Please remember again grain of salt, people always make mistakes especially with audio because of its complexity.

Thanks man xD

As it says i have a new amp on the way which should be here either today or tomorrow and i face a dilemma where i will be using my computer as a source and my sound card as the pre amp, problem is the rotel is rated with a input sensitivity of 2v and my sound card puts out about that on full. I am afraid that i don't have a proper control over the pre out voltage and that i might by accident push the volume to full and run the amp at full power and possibly damage my klipsch RF 83's. Even though power handling is rated for 250w RMS its still something i think i should be concerned about. Any help much appreciated.

haha thanks, time will tell and im hoping tears are presant. btw wheres dennis ?

Yea should get it in couple of dayz, i had been eyeing this amp for a while and was waiting for a good deal to come my way. Had done a lot of research into the technology to better understand my purchase and feel i have confidently done the best for my speakers (RF 83) and cant wait . I love music.

Wonder what i am going to expect hmm, sorta on the edge of my seat haha.

There was a website i visited once that was conducting a public test to see whether people could blind test between 128-320 and 192-320 and be able to choose which file was lower codec and which was of higher, what was good to see was that each test was non downloadable and played straight from the website without letting the test subject view any information on the file except for it displaying either A or B. Then you would select your answers for the given tests, what was interesting was from the thousands that did the test the results came in indicating almost 90 percent got the 128-320 right at indicating what files were 128 and 320 and with the 192-320 it was about 50-50. It gave you the answers of your test's at the end and i managed to get all 12 samples correct, i believe there is a major difference between 128-192 and a less but still major improvement between 192-320 and that which has been said shows even more with equipment like klipsch with the famouse garbage in garbage theory. I think from all the threads and information i have seen over the net that a more appropriate question and more interesting one would be mp3 @ 320kbps vs lossless as that has a much smaller gap IMO than comparing lossy vs lossy. Now i find it tough to tell the difference between 320 MP3 vs DD HD/DTS HD its a much smaller gap.

This is my two cents but i think you are missing a few things from whats been said, if not then disregard what iv said. With the comparison between the heritage and reference in regards to recommendations of better application for your needs you have made the assumption of a few things that have already been pointed out but thought it would be good to concrete them. The recommendation of a louder speaker was pointed out because you infact blew your speaker from you breaching the mechanical limitation via high power output forcing the cone to exceed its polarity limits. Now with the herritage they are more sensitive so require less power for a given sound pressure level but this does not determine a speakers physical limits in SPL, the speakers design determines its physical limits and that can involve things like driver size, polarity limit, materials, enclosure etc (also noted that the power ratings are inacurate and misleading so you cannot use these informations). Generally if you want to go louder you need a larger driver size to fill the room as pointed out by coytee which i say was some great information.

When you start using screens larger than 50" the ammount of pixels available cannot fill the area to overcome pixelation or pixel density so it becomes useless if you were trying to increase picture quality, the larger the display the further you would have to sit from the screen otherwise you would loose performance in picture quality and would only be making it harder to get a clearer image. So on top of why you dont see screens larger than 65" you also have the limitation of the technology that restricts the size.