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Bubo

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Posts posted by Bubo

  1. Its the end of the product run for the sub and they are clearing out the supply chain. Newegg, had 2400 on hand a couple of weeks ago.

    Curious, how do you know how many they have or have had on hand?

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    When my first crushed unit showed up, I had already sold my sub-12 to a friend, so I worried that I would be wooferless if they ran out of stock. The agent assured me that they had 1000 on hand and 1400 arriving any day, so no worries. They are flushing out the supply-distribution chain at the end of product life. They will build and refirb every unit they can so they eat nothing. UPS is a different story, they are eating a lot of these that they crush. Apparently, they ship things like speakers in the same trucks as transmissions and engine blocks, who is going to lose that one when the truck starts bouncing? My local packer and shipper told me that if its fragile they ship only Fedex ground since they use separate trucks for industrial vs home packages, a few cents more per box but worth it.

  2. What does UPS do with the units they destroy. They eat them 100% They are sent to some building where they examine the problem aka we dropped the unit off of the loading dock from 5 feet up and smashed it, or we put it in the bottom of a truck that bounces up and down a lot with tons of stuff crushing the bottom boxes or we drove a fork lift through it. Lots of ways to kill a box.

  3. Bought 1 a month ago at $350. Arrived crushed. New Egg sent replacement unit. Arrived with broken grill and cracked side. 3 rd unit shipped yesterday. Lets hope its the charm. Yes they are detailed,but don't shake the place the way my sub-12 did for movies, but yes better defined bass strings. My shipping experience is apparently common with UPS and this unit

  4. Thanks, let me knock the cob web out of my head.

    SONET This was never my protocol, from your post I seem to recall that timing is derived from syncing with timing bits that are embedded in the protocol. So it counts X-bits then re-aligns the timing with bit number X. Then you have all of the framing issues so you can keep the various signals separated out to whatever granularity you are looking for. The last time I looked (12) years ago the SONET chip sets were being brought out to front end DWDM short and long haul multiplexers, thus having it both ways with error checking and the elimination of all of those repeaters.

    The next time I swing by the library I'll pick up a copy of Toss-link timing and protocols for dummies (me).

    What ever happened to over-speeding the links and using buffers to smooth out the data flow to the DSPs while allowing for error correction ala HDLC, the good old days.

    I'm starting to think my property management gig is rotting my brain.

  5. I'm not sure what Flac is, you can tell me.

    Windows Media allows you to rip lossless files, check out the option when you go to rip

    At some point I will have to study the protocols, but is the CPU converting the various storage formats to some standard format that all sound cards understand?

    If the CPU is converting the protocols to some standard then you need the SW for WinMP to do the conversion Flac to ?

    Good luck, you app doesn't sound like its unique.

  6. PCs make a lot of electronic noise that is primarily contained inside the metal box.

    If you are running metal wires out of the box, there is always a chance they will pick up the stray electrons and give you noise.

    Optical connections isolate the units from each other, no metal wires.

    I keep hearing about phase jitter problems on toslink, this is a new issue to me. Is there an inherent problem in locking the clocks on toslink?

    Most of the voice and data networks in N. America are optics based and work just fine.

    I use toslink, sounds fine to me, maybe I'm missing something.

    I also use USB to feed an external sound card for my promedia's, works fine.

    Good luck

  7. Heresys have 12 inch woofers, if you boost the bass you will be surprised how much they can pump out.

    Are you planning on buying new Heresys? or snapping up used?

    As was suggested, if you still need more base snap up a used Synergy sub 12 450W.

    You can always buy some used La Scalas and get glass tops for them so mom can put the lamps and pictures on them, no plants.

    Here is a picture of mine in the living room 17 x14 approx.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B000EI3TZ6/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_0?ie=UTF8&index=0

    The 15 inch woofers will rock your world when you get em going.

  8. I downloaded PKs Dope from Hope papers and am reading them. He repeatedly states his concerns that 100W amps will tear Klipsch drivers apart with surges if anything goes wrong with the amp. He states that 25 to 40W is plenty to protect the speakers and suggests that quality is better than quantity for Watts.

    I keep the gain at 50% on my Mac Stack Amp as a safety measure.

    Hope this helps.

  9. This owner and some friends made a DIY repair site for Promedia Speakers.

    I'm guessing that any name brand certified stereo repair shop can repair these locally so why ship them to TX?

    Check the Pioneer, Marantz etc web sites to see where the authorized shops are and take your blown amps there.

    www.thompdale.com/bash_amplifier/bash_amp.htm


    Plan B, as has been suggested buy a 5.1 receiver with remote, connect the 5 speakers 30 Watts each, 4 ohms (not 8), and pick up a used woofer off of Craigs list locally. This may be the best way to go once your promedia amp is fried. Used receivers that are pre HDMI interfaces sell at steep discounts.

  10. Any suggestion on the 2A3 amps, manufacturer and models?

    How much is reasonable?

    I looked and there are a lot of them out there.

    Is 8 watts RMS enough?

    Thanks

    I believe Paul Klipsch favorite amp was a 2A3 based tube amp

    Try the Bottleheads, they are very reasonable

  11. John,

    The K-horns and Heresys are as good as it gets for speakers regardless of how much more you spend.

    What makes these speakers special is that you don't need a huge amp to drive them, they are remarkably efficient.

    At 2 Watts the K-Horns will run you out of the room, at 50 Watts out of the house.

    Most of your listening will be at less than 1 Watt, even if you are hard of hearing.

    A high quality integrated amplifier that puts out 25-40 Watts is all you need. If you only want stereo, look at the class A amps. Tube or solid state the possibilities are endless. Since you aren't spending the money on watts to drive pig speakers, you can spend it on quality. Especially good characteristics at very low watts.

    If you want surround sound, get a THX rated amplifier. I have used my La Scalas with 2 Pioneer Elites. I highly recommend the Elites, you can hear them at Best Buy Magnolia. Entry level for a 7.1 Elite is about $650 and with the Klipsch speakers, it will blow your sock off. THX sound and video ratings mean something. To play Blu Rays you need DTS decoding, so you are talking new. My $1700 Elite did sound better than my current $650 Elite. Lawyers are sucking me dry.

    Killer 5.1 sound; As one of the other posters said, the K Horns are the two front speakers, Heresys in the rear and you have to get one more Heresy for your center channel. Why, because the Heresys are voiced the same as the K Horns. You system will sound better than any theater you've been in. You won't need a sub woofer, the K Horns have 15 inch woofers and the Heresys have powerful 12 inch woofers, you can make the house breath.

    If they are old enough, it may be time to get the capacitors replaced on the cross over circuits inside the speakers. There is a well known guy on these boards that specialized in updating the boards. If they are 30 years old, its time.

  12. Inspecting and cleaning the connections may be a good idea, along with checking the caps for leaks and hot spots on the boards.

    Caps detiorate over time, I had a bunch replaced on my Mac Stack at the factory.

    Doing some homework and replacing all of the caps may be a good and relatively inexpense project at some point.

    One of the aftermarket crossover makers may be willing to advise you and sell you the caps or be willing to do the rework for you and mail your original crossovers back to you. One of the factory autorized repair depot companys will also do anything you want for money. They get bored with all of the warranty work they do and like to trick out products.

    If they sound good, I would leave them alone after inspection unless or until you have a good reason.

    Hope this helps

  13. KP,

    The speakers inside of the cabinits literally move back and forth to create sound waves in the air. Like moving your hand back and forth in the bathtub, the same principals apply here. Think of sound as waves in the water and plan accordingly for unimpeaded waves with no reflctions bouncing off of the walls or other objects and no objects obstructing their path.

    In order for the speakers to correctly and accurately produce waves, they need to breath freely and without any obstructions in front of them.

    I know the cheese cake photos show the speakers bunched up next to the TV set or mixed in with expensive bookshelves, but the fact is that both of these are usually poor placement options. In a retro cheese cake photo there would probably be girls in bikinis with machine guns hanging on the speaker, but PC has eliminated this type of shot. [:D]

    A good reference book, which I have read, is Home theater for dummies. Its worth checking out at the library or buying a used copy on Amazon.

    My suggestion would be to clear out the walls behind the speakers, completely if possible.

    * Locate the speakers 10 to 15 feet apart if possible.

    * Locate the speakers in clear unobstructed corners if possible.

    * Make sure the rear of the speakers are at least 12 to 24 inches off of the wall.I think the RF7s vent out the rear for easy movement of the woofers.

    * Angle the speakers toward the chair you sit in, preferable the most comfortable one located in a straight line directly in front of your best TV set. If you favorite chair can be located no less than 15 feet from the speakers, they will sound better.

    * If you have wood or tile floors, place a thick piece of rug under each speaker to help isolate them and absorb any sound bouncing off of the floor. I use two very thick cotton door mats with no backing which makes pulling the speaker out or rotating it to service the rear much easier.

    * Thick carpeting, heavy curtains and full book shelves in the room are OK and my be desireable for reducing echos. Fabric furniture is also a good thing. Don't obstruct the line to the speakers with anything. If you ever wanted to hang oriental rugs on the wall, this is the room to do it in. Close the curtains for better sound.

    * If you ever have a room built, spend the extra bucks and get sound absorbing drywall, I would have to check but real wood may also work well. Hard floors are OK but use lots of thick area rugs, if in a basement a drop ceiling with acusitic tiles may be a good thing.IMHO and ideal room size would be approximately 30 x 50 feet. TV and speakers off of the walls by 2-3 feet, my favorite chair approximately in the middle of the room, surrounds on the sides and rear corners at head level or higher up and angled down. A large three car garage, with the upstairs media room would do the trick with an upstairs connection to the staircase located inside of the house and an exterior solid wood door for the entry way, maybe with a deadbolt.

    Hope this helps.

    PS I haven't tried the RF7s but they get very good reviews, they are however not the most expensive speakers in the stable.

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