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Marvel

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Posts posted by Marvel

  1. As Gil points out, the high end starts rolling of with age, whether you listen to loud music or not. I have always been an acoustic musician, so things never were very loud in a performance situation. I think that hi fidelity audio is a little bit of an acquired taste. Like, I thought at some point in the past that Boone's Farm wine was good too, but it would probably make me gag if I tasted it now. Same way with audio. The little Sound Design, that must have had all of three watts output (and not SET output), with little cheesy speakers. Wow! It was good at the time.

    Marvel (52)

    Don't know how I could be this old, as it seems like yesterday I was listening to PP&M and the Kingston Trio to learn guitar!

  2. The $150 price is for rental. The Sony for under a grand is pretty good for a portable DAT. Try this at American Musical Supply:

    http://www.americanmusical.com/item.asp?UID=2001110810032271&menu=&keyword=&item=TAS+DAP1

    The Tascam prtable is about $1500. You can get their component models for around $500 on scratch and dent sales or whatever, like the D30 or D40. I have a D30 MKII, but is cost me about a grand three years ago. Excellent, but it only has line ins and outs (digital and analog) You can't hear it while it is running, as opposed to the ADAT (8 tracks, 20 bit audio). The transport in it is pretty noisy.

    Marvel

  3. Theears,

    I actually like tubes. I actually like SS. As you have said, it is the music that counts. Unfortunately, the only tube gear I have at the moment is an ST70. It needs reworking. No offense to the TVA guys I know, but they have the voltage at the max here. The old, original parts won't take the punishment. There are way better tube amps and preamps out there, but I only paid $50 for it. Even if I spend another $150, it will be fien for me. I bought it used, and used it off and on for 15 years before it went into the closet the last time. Still working on building my LaScala clones, so the tubes will have to wait a little bit longer.

    More of my time is spent with my ADAT than listening in the living room. My monitoring is all done with small nearfields.

    Marvel

  4. Reversing one channel's speaker leads will put the two channels 180 degress out of phase. Any material that was to be heard right in the middle would be out of phase left/right, and would drop in level by quite a few db. This would be most noticeable if you were stting equidistant from the two speakers. If you were off center a tiny bit, the phase relationships would be different.

    An old trick used in recording a large vocal group was to feed two speakers a mono signal, but reverse the polarity to one of the speakers. Have them facing each other in the studio. The single microphone would then be placed in the null point between the two speakers. People who weren't dead center could hear well enough to sing along with the tracks being played back, and have almost no level from the speaker playback. Saved the price of a bunch of headphones.

    Marvel

    This message has been edited by Marvel on 11-02-2001 at 04:36 PM

  5. You can order an autoformer from:

    Universal

    P.O. Box 1300

    Wylie, TX 75098

    972 442 2231 voice

    972 442 2233 fax

    Universal #3619

    This is Al Klappenberger's replacement for a T2A out of an AA network. He would probably know whether or not it could be used for the T4A. He uses this for his LaScala crossover design that REALLY does sound good.

    You could contact him at alk@alkeng.com

    or visit his web site at http://www.alkeng.com/klipsch.html

    Or send an email to Trey Cannon at Klipsch and ask what they cost from them: cannont@klipsch.com

    Marvel

  6. Mike,

    You might really like David 'Fathead' Newman's release of Duke Ellington material called Mr. Gentle / Mr. Cool. It is a '94 release on Kokopelli Records. He played with Ray Charles' band in '54, so he has been around a long time. Just saw him live this summer and all I can say is wow! This is the only album I have of his, and if any of the rest are like it, you can't go wrong. He plays sax and flute.

    Allan,

    Nice looking site.

    Cheers,

    Marvel

  7. Jim,

    These are the values for the K-33-E:

    SPEC 15162

    PART # K-33

    RE OHMS 3.39

    LE MH .96

    QM 7.39

    QE .410

    QT .390

    XMAX MM 8.20

    BL TM 11.88

    EFF % 2.91

    FS HZ 34.46

    MMS GMS 78.59

    CMS mm/N .2714

    RMS NS/M 2.3037

    VAS LTRS 301.66

    SD SCM 889.59

    EBP 84.4

    SPL dB 96.6

    Wattage 150rms

    Download a copy of Winisd

    http://www.linearteam.dk/index.html

    (speaker design software), or other software and put in the parameters. Choose the box type (vented, sealed), and see what size it needs to be. If you are making a sub, you won't need anything but the woofer. I'm not saying it will sound good or do what you want, but it could be a start. BTW, Decware has some interesting plans for subs also, but they wouldn't match your speaker.

    Marvel

  8. djk,

    I would like to place an order. Can you up that to 2.4 GHz for me while you're at it. My microwave is on its last legs, and I could use it for double duty as a satellite uplink. I could probably cook a whole cow on the hoof with that too.

    Marvel

  9. Tubnube,

    You would love the LaScalas. I'm still working on getting a pair. I currently have JBL 4311s (original fabric grills, from 1972), the 'Studio' version of the L-100s. They are only rated at 91db, and mine do quite well with big or little amps. The LS will take you were you want to be. Just think of them as headphones you sit between. Tubes are great, the "little city at night", and they help keep you warm in the winter!

    Marvel

    This message has been edited by Marvel on 10-18-2001 at 08:06 PM

  10. Uh, Ray,

    A concert A is 440 Hz, so a middle C, slightly lower is around 261.?. I don't have my chart here at work.

    Guess this makes up for my trying to explain power/watts/dBs!

    Every octave up is a doubling of freq., so an octave higher than the A above middle C is 880 Hz. Going down an octave would cut the freq. in half.

    But really Ray, your exlanations are GREAT!

    Marvel

  11. The K33-E, the speakers you would get from Klipsch, are made for them by Eminence. You cannot get them directly from Eminence, but only from Klipsch, as they are made to Klipsch specs.

    However, Eminence provided me with the specs:

    SPEC 15162

    PART # K-33

    RE OHMS 3.39

    LE MH .96

    QM 7.39

    QE .410

    QT .390

    XMAX MM 8.20

    BL TM 11.88

    EFF % 2.91

    FS HZ 34.46

    MMS GMS 78.59

    CMS mm/N .2714

    RMS NS/M 2.3037

    VAS LTRS 301.66

    SD SCM 889.59

    EBP 84.4

    SPL dB 96.6

    Wattage 150rms

    You might be able to get an Eminence dealer to order it cheaper, but at $100 each from Klipsch, it isn't bad at all.

    Marvel

  12. Hi all,

    Still working on this project, just have other projects in front of it for a while. I have two more questions for those who are far more knowledgeable than myself.

    The LS horn flare isn't very smooth at all (I know, it was an industrial speaker first). After the initial flare (left and right) the horn stays the same as it comes toward the front (about 7 1/2 inches). Then it flares again, to the the mouth. I figured up the area for these three different sections, and figured out I could have the flare be more constant (or continuous at least) when I build them. As TBrennan says, he thinks they will go high enough to then cross at 500Hz anyway, but would this help out any? Someone had mentioned that adding the corner reflectors caused some funny output in the upper end, but this might be a better solution. Couldn't do what I have in mind on a stock LS, but these are starting from the ground up. Also figured I could make the cabinet just enough wider to make those side parts be 3 inches across instead of 2 3/4. Perhaps I will make these and run some tests, before I get the mid/hi horns.

    The other is the wood I was going to use. What I had thought was birch that I had purchased before, turned out to be 'golden virola' a wood from South America. It has very clean grain, and has nine (count 'em: nine) plies. all the same wood. It is used for cabinet making and furniture, but wondered if anyone here has used it before. The birch here is running around $44 a sheet, while the virola is only $34 right now.

    Thanks for the input,

    Marvel

    BTW, I got to hear John Albright's LaScalas a few weeks go. Sweet! Took over a David "Fathead" Newman CD of Duke Ellington songs. Sounded like they were playing in the room.

    =================

    After reading some of DJKs old posts on another forum, I realized the reason for the two different flare rates on the LS. Still wonder about the sides remaining constant.

    This message has been edited by Marvel on 10-16-2001 at 07:49 AM

  13. djk,

    You are a hoot!

    Slon,

    Pay close attention to what djk says. He KNOWS pro audio very well. He may sound opinionated (who isn't?), but he does know his stuff. Most people on this forum (wonderful, caring, helpful), are in this for home use. It is a whole other ball game when you move to PA use. I used some home built LS cabinets for PA use once, and they were made by djk. They rocked, but I also only used them within their limits. Actually, I never pushed them very hard at all. They sure weren't stock either.

    You want to use them in an 11' by 15' rehearsal space? Watch out for open mics. Almost lost my hearing once with feedback doing a small room like that. (That was from some EV Eliminators from djk. The horns ARE efficient.

  14. gjp60,

    I'm pretty new here also, but am working on building a pair of LS bass cabinets with the generous help of those on this forum. I am attaching a jpg of the top view of the LS cabinet (just the bass part), with two possible mods. The original drawing was done by Tony Reed, another member here. The part in red, is the addition of two vertical corner reflectors, the idea of which is to help extend the upper bass response by smoothing out the air flow from the cabinet. The part in blue, was an idea that Gil McDermott was using to brace the side of some other cabinets he was building. It would sorta add a shelf in the mouth of the horn. I only drew one side, but it should be on both. this would keep the sides from vibrating. John Albright showed me a photo from Gil that had this done. John has said that certain male vocals cause the sides on his LS cabinets to vibrate a lot.

    If you notice from the drawing, the sides only have an opening of 2 3/4 inches, while the back is 3 inches. This makes the flare of the horn actually get smaller again. Tony measured more than one factory set of LS and found them to be the same. It doesn't appear to hurt the sound any. The only reason I have figured out is when laying out the dimensions on plywood, if the cabinets were wide enough to get the 3 inches on the side, I couldn't fit the pieces on one sheet of ply. No matter what, it will take three sheets just to build the bass boxes. My mid/hi horns will be separate.

    Hope this helps.

    Marvel

    This message has been edited by Marvel on 09-29-2001 at 09:04 AM

  15. If you were to use a small piece of window screen (I'm thinking of the vinyl kind) on the end on the vacumm hose, so that it looks like a vegetable strainer in miniature, this would keep you from sucking the cap clear off. It would provide a limit as to how far the cap would come out.

    Don't know if what I'm saying makes sense, but I have it pictured in my head (very dangerous place).

    Marvel

  16. My wife and I went to the opener of the Chattanooga Symphony & Opera this past Friday. The were doing a mostly Beethoven concert. Little did I know that they always open the season with the Star Spangled Banner. The theatre was packed, with probably fewer than twenty seats open. I couldn't sing I was so overwhelmed with emotion. They followed with America the Beautiful. I was devastated.

    Marvel

    BTW, while coming back from Atlanta on Sunday, a car passed us, full of folks who appeared to be from the Middle East. The passenger on the right side of the car was holding a small American flag out the window. They are in my prayers, as they looked scared.

  17. johnny24c,

    I'm sure Trey could help, but it sounds like you have a 70volt transformer on your speaker. This is used in many commercial settings to adjust levels of different speakers. The different taps would be to adjust the levels. This makes it easier for a commercial installer to calculate the load on the amp. Who want to figure out how to add ten 8 ohm speakers on to a system? Works a lot like the transformer on the LaScala, used to adjust the squawker level. They wouldn't be used in normal systems.

    Marvel

    This message has been edited by Marvel on 09-22-2001 at 09:35 AM

  18. Mike,

    There were actually albums produced that utilized DBX encoding. Many people liked it better than Dolby for tapes too, but you couldn't do that on vinyl. I think the DBX used a set compression/decompression ratio, unlike Dolby Labs having it vary depending on signal level and other criteria. The records generally played back with no surface or background noise. TEAC still uses DBX on their multitrack analog tape recorders.

    Marvel

  19. I have started to write something all week, but haven't been able to get down in a short space all that is on my mind. How could I? It has been interesting where I work, a small Presbyterian college. I'm the only Catholic there, and I often find myself in sharp disagreement over matters of religion. If Christians can argue and disagree, what can we then make of all the world's religions? We can all be wrong, but we can't all be right. But right now, being right or wrong about our faith is not the issue. This nation is full of people of all faiths, Christian, Muslim, Jew, Hindu,... There are athiests, moralists, deists, ... And all of the varieties in each of those. We are human beings, created in God's image, trying to interact with the world around us, and right now, we are all hurting.

    Has the U.S. had the best foreign policy or always acted with the best intentions in the world? I think we would be wrong to say we are without sin (moral, ecological, business, political, whatever). But I for one, wouldn't want to live or be from anywhere else.

    So now we declare war on terrorism. That is about as vague a target as the war on poverty, and it didn't work. I am praying that our leaders will have wisdom, that our fellow citizens will have wisdom ... and compassion, mercy and forgiveness. I have a 30 mile drive to and from work. Not a day has passed that I have not wept as I have made that drive. Should something be done? Yes, but I pray it is the right, whatever it is.

    Marvel

  20. I bought an ST-120 (solid state) and an ST-70 (tube) from an acqaintance around 25 years ago. I liked the ST-120, but sold it to another friend. I only paid about $60 for it then. I still have the ST-70 (paid $50 for it). It still has the original parts. It is finally getting upgraded. We have TVA power here, and a solid 125 volts coming out of the wall. I'm afraid it will just go up in smoke if I don't change out some parts. The ST-120 may have been the worst ever SS amp, but hey, if you like the sound and it isn't going to die and blow something, why not pick it up?

    Marvel

  21. Lag,

    The idea of fiber handling higher data rates than Cat5e is not warranted. Multimode fiber can only handle 1 gigabit. Single mode probably goes higher, but most folks only deal with multimode. That is the cable most network cards use. One cable for transmit and another for receive, and they come paired together. But you are correct in that the short lengths used in a home wouldn't require exceptional cable.

    My ADAT can transfer eight 20 bit tracks at one time over the little fiber cable that came with it. NO degradation noticed.

    Marvel

  22. If you search through the Audio Asylum files, you will find a post by DJK (who posts a lot here also). He put forth a mod for LaScalas that meant closing in the top part of the cabinet, making an opening from the sealed woofer enclosure into that, stuffing it with fiberglass and porting it. It kept the stock K-33E speaker, and gave you more bottom end out of the cabinet. He didn't say what size the ports should be. I think it pretty much doubles the internal volume off the sealed enclosure. I had calculated the volume recently, but I'm at work and not at home. Of course, you wouldn't want to do that to a brand new cabinet. If you didn't mind the added height, it would be easier to add on to the bottom of the cabinet since it already has an access point for the woofer.

    If djk has more info on that, I'm doing some drawings that I will post on my web site (no, it's not there yet. Only pages for my church) I am doing them in Caligari TrueSpace 4.3. I also want to post all the LaScala drawings I've collected from different people (if they don't mind). I'm still looking for the right plywood to use. Our local Home Depot had 9 ply birch, with almost all plys the same thickness. It was really nice and only $36 a sheet. When I went back to get some for this, they only had 7 ply available.

    Cheers,

    Marvel

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