NOSValves
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Posts posted by NOSValves
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Hi folks not sure if everyone is aware but I have been pretty much forced into retirement or at least semi-retirement. So, for the last few years I have been relegated to just repairing my previous customers' gear I already built and rebuilt. I do have some good news most of my health issues have stabilized except the Knee replacement surgery I'm having done on the 20th of this month. If that goes well once I'm rehabbed, I'm hoping to start taking a limited amount of new vintage rebuild work in again. But enough about that.
With the impending medical costs looming I'm going to be selling a few pieces of gear to try and cover some of the cost. I thought offering them to where it all started at a minor discount would be a nice thing to do, If Klipsch finds this inappropriate please delete or close the thread.
The 299C I'm offering was my own for the last dozen years. I ran this in my Livingroom until about 6 months ago when the original above chassis high voltage power supply can capacitors decided to finally give it up. I had already rebuilt it with all my tweaks including the above chassis bias test points and controls (except the previously mentioned power supply filter cans). Now I have replaced/upgraded the high voltage power supply filter cans. So, it now has my complete deluxe rebuild. The tubes. All the small signal tubes are vintage USA made in top notch shape, the output tubes are a brand-new set of burned in hand selected matched JJ brand 7591S and the Rectifier is a brand new Sovtek 5AR4. Cosmetically I'd say 7 out of 10 only because the bevel around the face plate has a few blemishes/scratches which the picture always exaggerate. Currently this service would normally cost north of $600 plus the cost of the amplifier, tubes it might need and return shipping. It will be treated warranty-wise as if I just rebuilt it for you. Which is lifetime (My physically able to repair it lifetime). One year free of charge and $75 bench fee after a year. The amplifier should easily operate trouble free for many years. It sounds gorgeous! The perfect match for any Klipsch Heritage and even a few not so hard to drive modern Klipsch.
$900 plus shipping cost. I think if you check eBay you'll find this is an excellent deal.
Please email, text or call with any questions craig@nosvalves.com 810-287-6135
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Well it's pretty simple in my view, he states the outboard power supply made very little difference when plugged into the preamp on the top (same brand). But made a 30% guesstimated improvement with the preamp on the bottom. The top preamp has a well-designed power supply the preamp on the bottom not so much!
So sure it can...if the gear is crap in the power supply department!
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Okay I went ahead splurged picked up a pair 500-SA mounted them up high on the front wall. Seems to work darn nice... My sub seems to now be my weak point. My 2002 era KSW-15 is just to slow blubbery to mate well with the Belles and the rest of my speakers.. I was digging around Amazon and eBay the Reference R-12SW can be had cheap! The review I've read all seem great many call it tight, articulate and distortion free. At $200 each affording a pair is pretty darn easy!
Any thoughts?
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13 hours ago, wuzzzer said:
I vote 4 Belles hanging from the ceiling.
👍Do you have 4 extras lying around you want to donate? 😁
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On 7/28/2022 at 8:28 AM, Crankysoldermeister said:
I ran RF-7’s for years with a lot of different tube amplifiers, even zero feedback SET. That 8B will drive these just fine and will sound great.
What the heck are you doing around here? I seem to recall you saying "a cold day in hell" LOL!!!
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58 minutes ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:
Good to see you Craig.
I don't know much about Atmos, but aren't the ceiling speakers for some minor spacial sound effects?
What I mean is how much does it really matter what speakers you use.
Thanks! Not sure I just know they need to be efficient enough to be level match by the available adjustment in the receiver. The timber match I would think is secondary. Which is really what my question was about since Klipsch does not list that spec. only that they are Dolby Atmos compatible or compliant.
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I found a newer manual that I believe states you can do rear surrounds or Dolby Atmos height front not both. It actual spans 3 pages talkiing about speaker hookup and Dolby Atmos. So I guess I just saved buying 2 of the 4 I was thinking about.
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Thanks everyone. Wuzzzer my ceiling is at an extreme slope (cathedral) with the lowest (8ft) wall on the right side of the room and the highest (about 16' to 18') on the left. So ceiling mounting or firing them up is not possible. I was considering doing 4 of them. Two mounted flat about 10 to 12' up on the front wall pointed downward toward the sweet spot and another pair up just under 8' on the right and left walls angle to or near the listening position. I'm just spit balling rioght now since I'm current laid up with a bum knee.. health wise the hits just keep coming nothing life threatening, just annoying as all get out.
Check out the attached picture of the page with speaker hookup and layout gopt the TX-NR636 receiver it looks to me like they have you wire the front and rear height speakers in Parallel per channel.
PS the manual is dated...at the time of publish I do not believe Atmos was supported or maybe even in existance. It was added through firmware update so the drawing might be useless since they do not refer to the rears as height speakers. .
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Been I while since I've posted around here. I was looking for some idea of the efficiency of the various Atmos Elevation speakers Klipsch offers. Like the R-104SA, R-40SA R-41SA or RP-500SA. Stating complies with dobly atmos doesn't tell me much LOL!! I'm trying to decide if they will at all blend intyo my al;ready none comforming surround setup. I'm using Belle Klipsch as the mains, KLF-C7 center and Heresy rears. Was thinking about adding sides and 4 atmos up firing since my Onkyo TX-NR636 Receiver supports it. It has + - 12db for level matching so I can lower fronts and center to match the Heresy's and raise the elevationb speakers to meet that.
What do the home theater gods have to say?
Thanks Craig
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On 10/28/2021 at 2:54 PM, Coytee said:
ewwwwww...... so what I'm hearing you say is you have hairy ears.
TMI
(yeah, I know this is 45 years after your post, I just saw the thread after it popped up I guess that simply means your ear hair is now longer EWWWWWW)
I'm watching you!
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On 9/4/2021 at 5:22 PM, paul79 said:
Mullards! I like the 10M 12AX7 as they seem to have better focus and extension than a standard Mullard 12AX7, and still give that beautiful midrange, but they can be a premium now days. For 12AU7, I prefer the long plate Valvo, or the short plate RT 12AU7WA. This one: https://upscaleaudio.com/collections/preamp-tubes/products/radiotechnique-12au7
This amp was my own personal stereo VRD that someone talked me into selling to them...
Trust Paul I don't believe anyone on the planet has tried more tubes in VRD's that included me. In the end you'll never go wrong with any "VINTAGE EURO Made" Mullard or Amperex in either the AX7 and AU7 slot.
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On 6/19/2021 at 5:44 PM, KT88 said:
Never swap a AX7 for an AT7. It is simply the totally wrong tube for the circuit conditions. Yes 12AT7 are significantly cheaper than 12AX7, because the demand is high for AX types of tubes. But that does not mean one could replace a AX by an AT. It will be very disappointing.
👍 or the reverse.....well unless your a fan of distortion. These types of suggestions usual have an origin in guitar amp circles where distortion is king! Not at all advisable in the Hi Fi tube amp.
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On 5/11/2021 at 8:19 PM, RandyH000 said:
Hey dont kid youself , this aint no regular tube amp , they've got circuits to eliminate the regular Bias adjustments , so ......SS and tubes -a hybrid -
Yeah that looks special alright.... a brief peak gives me a chronic headache..
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On 5/11/2021 at 8:02 PM, Deang said:
Everyone knows all of your amps are used. I mean you run ‘em for like a week before you ship them. 🙂
Christ I figured COVID took you out! Yeah I always have had trouble letting go LOL!!
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On 5/13/2021 at 7:21 AM, KT88 said:
What do you mean with „the sound is different“? Is it meant in principle, or in the sense that a self-biasing amp looks for the best operating point, and the manually adjustable amplifier can be fine-tuned a bit? It's sometimes done that way with guitar amplifiers. A somewhat "hot" idle current gives the sound more warmth and fullness, but the tubes have a shorter life. Conversely, a "cold" setting makes the amplifier sound (deliberately) harder and dirtier with longer tube life. These are all factors that should not play a role in hi-fi.
The circuit of my MC275 MK4 is self biasing. MC traditionally has a relatively low anode voltage, I mean around 450V. And the circuit together with the special output transformers is unique.
I would be interested to know why the new MC275 has a manual bias.I have a MC2102 from 2001 and it needs to be adjusted. Maybe because 4 KT88 per channel is a bit much for self biasing? But there is only one adjustment screw per channel so in any case a matched octet makes sense.. BTW it is a very unfortunate procedure. You have to unscrew the amp bottom and put it on the back side where the speaker terminals are on a soft pad. Inexperienced people have very quickly caused a short circuit if you get to the wrong pin of the V4 with the voltmeter, it unfortunately happened to me 16 years ago although I knew what I did but I slipped and a diode was fried.
It weighs a murderous amount of 88 pounds. That's why it's an ordeal for customers who don't know anything about electronics if you have to send the amp in for this bias adjustment. Even worse I estimate that almost no one will be in the know of this measure. It's only described in the service manual but not in the owners manual.
On the other hand, Mcintosh can't say it's a lifetime adjustment, because it has to be done every time you change the tubes in the MC2102.
By the way, I suspect this missing readjustment is one reason… (among others perhaps, like the power transformer is not bigger than that of a MC275, or because parallel switched KT88 do not sound as good as only one per phase…yes more output current but less subtile?) …why its sound is sometimes rated less good in forums than the MC275.
Ok, the sound signature is slightly different in comparison to a MC275 but many people might hear it after all these years and probably some tube changes without having been adjusted in bias. And it top form it is a very good sounding amp.The pic is out of the MC2102 service manual
Yeah someone around here was nice enough to send me a manual for a MC2000 these later year 4 or more tube per channel McIntosh amps have bias controls and test points. The vintage models I'm used to working on could have been modified to do the same but that would be a sin to any true McIntosh lover
With these newer units only being around 20 years old I serious doubt many have needed repair McIntosh amps are really reliable even the vintage ones will keep working and working long after they should be for there own good!
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On 5/7/2021 at 11:40 AM, Bubo said:
Tubes drift over time
Self bias addresses this continously
Low tech solutions frequently are better
Microprocessor monitored and controlled bias may be more accurate, but you have introduced a point of failure with much greater likelihood than a resistor; a piece of wire.
Self bias takes care of tube drift? Please explain how it does that continoulsy?
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On 5/8/2021 at 8:44 PM, joessportster said:
Called Mike Sanders this afternoon, Was shocked when he answered the phone (being Sat.) short version is I put in an order for a new pair of quicksilver Horn Mono Amps hoping they will be the answer to my to much gain issue..................The wait begins!!!!!!!!!!
Your first new amp? You must be getting forgetful in your old age
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They may be great amps but the description of the Spirit V on that USA audio website makes me want to barf it's so full of BS..
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17 hours ago, RandyH000 said:
a bit of fun never hurts
Well pain before pleasure begs to differ LOL!!
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On 4/30/2021 at 3:24 PM, AB3CX MIke said:
2 weeks ago learning that my unit was still months from being built, I took the plunge for a used MC-275 Mark VI available in my area. Of course it is not self biasing.
Did McIntosh change something I'm not aware of in the later versions? McIntosh as never produced an amplifier that required manual biasing that I know of. They do not utilize a cathode resistor so they would be considered a fix bias amp. But the output design is very different then anything on the planet and is self balancing fixed bias to a degree.
To me any amplifier that does not have the ability to test and adjust the bias is always off by some degree. Even those modern Primaluna jobs with the logic board controlling the bias. Nothing wrong with cathode biasing I think it has a really warm natural tone to it kind of rolls with the punches! With Push pull amps closely matched quad of output tubes are very much advisable.
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I have to ask what are you mega watt SS guys doing posting in the Tube section 🤷♂️... Us tube guys all know you have long ago burned all the hairs out of your ears to know what sounds good
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6 hours ago, RandyH000 said:
the Beyma is a very old tweeter , about the only good thing was the baby cheeks lenses these came with , the DE 10 , no comparison in the machining quality -
I use the DE-10 and have for a good many years its not a spring chicken either but it is most definitely very good HF driver for sure. I've never cared for the Beyma but I've never used it when I had the ability to attenuate it.
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6 hours ago, SWL said:
Interesting.....thinking about trying that tweeter attenuator. I have the DE-10 in my KLF-30's. I EQ those higher frequencies and it works really well but always wondered if I'd get better results with something like the ALK tweeter attenuator?
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
I'd imagine which would be better would depend on what your EQ'ing it with and how good it is theoretically if your able correct it making it flat throughout its range I'd say EQ should be better. But I've always found the simplest path to get the job done usually sounds the best to me.
HH Scott 299C with complete NOS Valves rebuild **SOLD**
in Garage Sale
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