Loudly Does It
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Posts posted by Loudly Does It
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2 hours ago, Deang said:
This will be fun to watch.
Where do you see this going off the rails?
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4 hours ago, carlthess40 said:
Do you have all the parts? If so I can do it for you. Just pay the shipping to me and back
Message me if you need the help
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkNo, I haven't.
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A while back I posted this thread with the same topic.
https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/175487-crossover-upgrade-for-rf-5/
After some great advice from the forum, I kept doing more research I came across this thread and I was scared off by what happened to him and did not go ahead with the job
At the time all I had was a soldering iron and not a gun with which I could regulate temperature. It seems as if the board is very sensitive and I worried about accidentally touching it and frying it. There isn't a lot of room in the speaker for a new board for all the pieces without moving the foam in there, so I didn't want to risk having to move that around and compromise the sound. Audio is like a woman. Extremely temperamental. So can I clip the lead into the cap ( the 20 uF is the tweeter cap) and weld the 24 awg wire from there to the board I am using inside. Of course that doesn't solve the problem with the red, 5.5 uF, which also would have to be changed. Any recommendations on that one, or do I have no other choice but to practice my desoldering so I can take it off. Thanks.
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My ceiling is too high for atmos (20') so atmos isn't a priority but my receiver doesn't do 4k HDR. It only does 4k at 30f/s. So I have to have the 4k player plugged in directly to the tv and then a second connection to the receiver. It can get annoying switching back and forth instead of just hitting one button on the receiver. It's all a trade off and what you're willing to deal with. I've always waited til they're clearing out the previous year's models when upgrading to get a discount. Works for me. For now I'll deal with having to switch back and forth. If
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Sound bars can't replace and aren't meant to replace a 5.1. With tvs going thinner and thinner, tv speakers are becoming increasingly useless. The sound bar is becoming the equivalent of the computer speaker when the monitor only displayed video.
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I attacked the photo below so you can see what I'm dealing with. I put the Quintent on the shelf as seen an turned to the listening position. Well I've upgraded and have a RS-42 that i am trying to put up. Unfortunately, I have to deal with the stairs and the landing being adjacent to where I am sitting. Is it fine being a little lower than it should be or does anyone have any better suggestions? Thanks.
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When we moved into our house I built a cabinet for my home theater. Center channel rested on top and it had compartments for my equipment. We're painting so instead of painting it to match the wife wants me to build another. This one will be a little bigger. I'm going to incorporate the subwoofers I'm going to build into them (Dayton RSS-390HO). Slots for the equipment again and she wants shelving along the side going up along the side of the tv for books and vids, etc. So I wanted some input from others that have done it. Some dos and don'ts. I learned some from the first build, but wanted to know what others have learned. This one she wants built into the wall, so it will have drawers that pull out for the equipment to be able to access it. I thought about having the top center piece detach to make accessing the back of the receiver easier and in the event something ever came lose or malfunctioned, I don't have to dismantle it. Do i need to worry about the this center piece perhaps being some what loose and have an impact on the center channel? It will be an RC-7 sitting on top of it. I added some small foam pads under the the center channel and it did help with the sound a little. Without a removable piece, its easy to make it sturdy enough where it won't move, but I like the idea of easy access. Or is my last point really nothing to be concerned about? Thanks.
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Amps
in Home Theater
11 minutes ago, willland said:Then what are you waiting for? Make it happen.
Bill
Written proof to keep the wife off my back when I show up with one.
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Amps
in Home Theater
On 3/22/2018 at 10:19 AM, carlthess40 said:I’ll see what comes up this weekend
But you know whit that list of speakers, they don’t need that type of power, unless you have them in a 2500 q.f room or larger.
But I’ll let you knowSo, since my living room is well over 2500 cubic ft, my RF-5s and RC-7 would greatly benefit from a power amp?
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1 hour ago, Deang said:
I once had a guy talk me into a RF-7 kit. He claimed that he used to work for NASA, and did a lot of surface mount work, and soldering new parts onto a PCB would be easy for him. He then started hitting me with a lot of questions, and tied me up in email for three days, expecting me to write a tutorial for him. By the end of the week, he had lifted the foil on the PCB, because he had been using a 140 watt soldering gun to do PCB work. After destroying the board, he wanted me to replace it -- since I had sold him “the kit", and “gave instructions”. I guess he forgot that he had told me that he could solder the space shuttle together. After that experience, I decided no more "kits", and no more supporting DIY efforts -- because many who think they can, actually can't.
With respect - I can tell from your posts that you probably shouldn't be doing this work!
No offense taken. I know doing one thing doesn't necessarily mean it will 100% translate into another task like the NASA guy. I know I'm not a crossover expert. I love my speakers and I love this hobby but by no means am I an expert. I started doing some research and saw some youtube videos that made it seem as if it were a pretty simple swap, so I wanted to make sure that I had the rights parts first though. Although you're quite humble you are the crossover expert around this forum, so maybe I won't go forward with the cap swap.
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1 hour ago, Deang said:
There is no real difference between 5.5 and 5.6 - it's insignificant.
Yes, you should do the RC-7. Do the RF-5's first -- if it goes badly -- you might want to consider sending the RC-7 to me.
Now you have me a little scared. I might just try one RF-5 first just in case. I'm a general contractor and I do a fair amount finishing carpentry so I'm used to detail and precise measurements but yes I don't do a lot of soldering. I figure I need to make sure I don't get any hot solder on the circuit or touch the capacitor with a hot soldering tool. What else do I need to be careful of? If its excessively hot can it damage the capacitor when I'm trying to make the connection? Thanks again.
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5 hours ago, Deang said:
That's not what I said. I said the schematic says "film", but that all of the capacitors in that network are metallized. "Film" is generic, but doesn't tell you if the cap is metallized or film and foil.
You will not be able to put the new capacitors in the original positions - you will have to be creative.
You can also easily damage the boards, or coils, while trying to desolder/remove the old capacitors and resistors. You can also damage your new parts if you have minimal soldering experience.
Sorry for the confusion. So then I need to use the Metalized Polypropylene Crossover Capacitors then? I can get them on Parts-Express with the same uF and tolerance except for one. The crossover schematic calls for 5.6, but only 5.5 is available. Should I search elsewhere for them instead or thats close enough? What about the RC-7/ You recommend changing the caps on that one too? I did read here where it was suggested the caps be different, but wasn't understanding why. Thanks for your time.
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3 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
I would change all caps.
I was thinking that might be the best bet. If they can all start giving out, the lower frequencies could also benefit from it. I'm going to open up one of the speakers this weekend to get a feel for the crossover layout and size. Hopefully it doesn't require too much improvisation. I read on another thread that people have made similar mods to the RC-7. Was wondering if I should do it to everyone in one shot. I would think it might affect sound production if the towers have new caps but the center has old ones.
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8 hours ago, Rich_Guy said:
What other components are you using with your RF-5's?
The RF-5's can be amazing speakers when paired with other components that are well mated to them. I have owned mine for around 18 years and absolutely love their sound. They can sound so natural, accurate and musical when they are used with well mated equipment. One of the best things I did for my RF-5's musically was when I added my MHDT Labs Havana tube DAC to my system, the combo is heaven.
I have a Pioneer Elite Sc-75 powering my speakers. I have the RC-7 center with the RF-5s. I looked into additional power but was told that my amp is delivering enough power to it. Not familiar with your amp.
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On 3/19/2018 at 11:00 AM, CECAA850 said:
I know a lot of people like the Daytons and I have some in a pair of Cornscallas that I really like.
027-434, 027-425, 027-436 Be sure to check the values with what's on your board. If @Deang says they're OK, I'd use them. Maybe he'll chime in.
Sorry to keep bothering you. Unfortunately Deang hasn't been able to respond. If I can ask you. So am i only changing the capacitors that go to the tweeter? From the videos I've read I see where the mods are made to help with some of the harshness of the highs or is it best to change them all because the capacitors seem to be the part that over time has an adverse affect on the sound. Deang did say on an earlier post not to worry about "film type" vs. metallized polypropylene. There all the same. If that's the case then I have more options, although I don't seem to get the exact value. 5.5 uF isn't available, but there are 5.6 uF available. Thanks.
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1 hour ago, Deang said:
Please post the schematic, or simply list the capacitor and resistor values.
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5 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
I know a lot of people like the Daytons and I have some in a pair of Cornscallas that I really like.
027-434, 027-425, 027-436 Be sure to check the values with what's on your board. If @Deang says they're OK, I'd use them. Maybe he'll chime in.
I've been noticing he's the crossover expert, so I'll be reaching out to him and see what he thinks about the parts you suggested and any advice, opinions and reading material me can provide. Thanks.
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OK. Thanks. I'm looking through Parts Express and not finding many options with the same value. There's a couple but they're not the Film type on the crossover schematic for the RF-5. They're the other types metabolized or polypropylene. Sorry, if it's a noob question. I'm very handy so I know swapping out is not an issue, its just learning more than the basics right now, to ensure I get the right part. Thanks.
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23 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
Beware as most caps are going to e bigger than what's in there now. You either need to be creative on the pc board or run wires to an external cap board like this. The picture is of a Heresy 2 but the principal is the same.
Is this from an RF-5 or another speaker? Just wondering if you're familiar with the amount of room in there. I only opened the tweeter when I bought them because there was no sound coming from it and it turned out the wire was loose. I can't complain, got them for $200 over 5 years ago.
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19 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
A cap change shouldn't be too hard. Just be sure you use the same value caps. There's no need to modify anything in the circuit.
Thanks. Going to start looking into it.
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Must keep this in mind when I'm visiting the in-laws in Tampa.
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I've seen several threads where the RF-7s have had their crossovers upgraded. I wanted to know if the same can be done for the RF-5s? Has anyone done it? Is it is worth it? I don't have much luck with the search feature here. Also some background info. so I can learn about the process and see if its something I want to explore. I love my RF-5s and certainly can't upgrade, but also don't know if I'm want to move on from them, but I was wondering if I can make them sound a little better. Thanks everyone.
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Take my advice with a grain of salt if your speakers are still under warranty. I bought a pair of RF-5s about 5 years ago and got them dirt cheap because the tweeter wasn't working. Turns out the connector hadn't been clamped properly and it was simply a loose wire. I tightened the connection and been enjoying them for 5 years now.
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1 hour ago, CHASLS2 said:
I got the garage door braced with cans of water and my C6 Vette. Things are gonna nasty and fog up fast after sundown. Could be the last pic i ever post.
Do you have any 2"x4"s or 4"x4"s you can back the car into to brace the garage door? That will not hold
Rf-5 Crossover Upgrades
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
How much would it cost to do them if I had the parts? You can send me a private message, if you would rather not talk numbers here.