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Rowan611

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Posts posted by Rowan611

    R110SW problems

    in Subwoofers

    Posted

    Do you have the sub hooked up to the sub out? Where's the gain nob set to? Crossover? Could be several different things. Could also be that you got a defective sub, it happens.

    Typed on a tiny keyboard, excuse any grammatical errors.

    FS: Tuba HT Subwoofer $400 (Louisville, KY Area)

    in Garage Sale

    Posted · Edited by Rowan611

    Man, I'd love to have a third......but you're over 10hrs away. I'll think about it. I'm selling my Denon, decided to go back to separates.

    Never mind, just measured my door to the basement, 31.5". No way it's going down there. Crap!! Sorry man. GLWS, I love mine. Great sub for the cost.

    BUILD THREAD: 4 Stereo Integrity 18's

    in Home Theater

    Posted

    Turn the dial to volts or amps, put the leads to their corresponding + - on the amp and measure how much the amp is sending out. If you start the volume low, you might just be able to skip this step. I did this while breaking I'm my driver before I built me THT, haven't used mine since. Lol

    Typed on a tiny keyboard, excuse any grammatical errors.

    BUILD THREAD: 4 Stereo Integrity 18's

    in Home Theater

    Posted

    Without a multimeter to measure voltage going to the driver you have to be careful. Run speaker wire to the leads and run a 20hz tone to it. Gently increase the volume. See if it makes the same sounds. Then, try a lower tone. Your just trying to reproduce the sound in free air.

    Typed on a tiny keyboard, excuse any grammatical errors.

    The last Blu-ray you watched.

    in Home Theater

    Posted · Edited by Rowan611

    Rowan, I need to see both of those movies.

    They're both good; but SOC was very well done. It has been a good couple of weeks for releases, with The Martian, Everest, and Straight Outta Compton. Everest has some really solid bass, nothing ULF, but bass that sounds really good. I actually ordered "Into Thin Air", one of the many books written about what happened on Everest in 1996.

    Typed on a tiny keyboard, excuse any grammatical errors.

    Why horns.

    in Subwoofers

    Posted

    Any reason why you co-located vs separating?

    I wish I could experiment with one sub behind me but my sweet spot is right up against the back wall. Putting subs laterally on either side of the listening position fails miserably in this room but the good news is that the whole front soundstage works well for the subs and the front right corner clearly gets the bests results.....and works very, very well I might add.

    That's a perfect reason. [emoji2]

    Typed on a tiny keyboard, excuse any grammatical errors.

    Why horns.

    in Subwoofers

    Posted

    The mains were off.....just doing some 'breaking in'......which by the way, has become very clear now that these subs (and others) do need break-in time.

     

    After hooking up the new one yesterday it was 100% clear that the new one sounded just like the first one when I originally brought it home. Now, I can switch from one to the other and hear the difference so clearly. The new one sounds stiff, a little boomy and has no 'bounce' or 'cushion' to the bass. The first sub I put on some heavy bass tracks for 1-3 hours at a time while away on the weekends and I'd say that a total of approx. 5 hours of this did the trick. It's easy to hear the improvement....no psyco-acoustics going on here. I've done this with all my new subs but these Tuba subs have had the biggest change in sound (for the better) from being brand new to having a few hours on them. Don't know why, I mean you ran test tones through them, sine waves etc.....but whatever, it is what it is and the results are awesome sounding bass.

     

    I haven't had multiple subs in a while and I'm once again reminded of the benefits of having some serious headroom. Bass is so much more effortless and clean. :emotion-21:

    Any reason why you co-located vs separating? I have two THTs also, and I've attached my measurement of the front, rear and both.

    Blue is front, red is rear and green is both. Hard to argue the benefits of front and rear.

    post-57667-0-02380000-1453303284_thumb.j

    Why horns.

    in Subwoofers

    Posted · Edited by Rowan611

    I do not have any measuring equipment, it is not something I care to check. The sealed F3 spec's for a 3 cu ft box are 37hz. Others that installed the same speaker in a 6 cu ft box claimed a lower f3 point but I am too lazy to find the claims. It is plenty low for me and I just wanted a sub that did not boom and would fill in where my LaScala's fall off pretty rapidly. The super lows are not that important to me as others like, I am more of a great mid range guy with a decent bottom end. There are certainly better more expensive ways to get superior lows, it is just my belief as a I have stated cost vs performance it is the best way to go. I do not like a tuned port bass but it satisfies most of the commercial sub buyers. If anyone checks for commercial sealed subs you will find them not that common. They will not go as low as a port sub but they are generally quicker with better transients if you have a really well made speaker and plenty of power.

    What subs are you referring to here? Just curious. The debate on weather a sealed sub is "quicker" than its ported counterpart is all BS. Are you really trying to tell me that your sealed sub is faster and sound better than say a Rythmik FV15HP? Or, are you saying an SVS PB13 Ultra is slower and sloppier? I won't even list subs from PSA, Reaction, and JTR. Sealed subs are no quicker than a well designed ported. You might not like port chuffing....but as far as speed and accuracy is concerned, there is no difference.

    As for a horn - which in NOT a ported sub, lower distortion and effortless bass. At the same db a horn will be using less watts, and the cone will be moving less. For horns you just need room and the patience to build one. Look at the one Jason is building for himself. I'm betting it doesn't take up that much more floor space as your sealed. So, you can have horns fit into a confined space. If you wan midbass, it's hard to beat a horn with just a single sealed.

    There are people that like the port better than sealed and then there are people that like sealed over port. I prefer a sealed sub. I looked at the prices of the 2 subs your quote and they are much more expensive than a diy sealed system. Personally I would much prefer a horn sub but size restraints keep me from building one. That and I really see no need for me to do so. Music lives in the mid range. If you want room shaking bass I see no problem with seeking it.
    You totally missed my point. My point was that there is NO difference in SQ or SPEED between ported and sealed. But, you managed to gloss right over that. Any sub you buy outside of DIY will be more expensive. But there are lots of ported subs that you can build that would be equal to your sealed. You prefer sealed, fine. My point isn't to get you to build a ported sub or a horn; but, to correct your assumptions that a sealed is faster and more accurate than ported. It isn't. Period. This has been proven time and time again.

    Typed on a tiny keyboard, excuse any grammatical errors.

    Why horns.

    in Subwoofers

    Posted · Edited by Rowan611

    I do not have any measuring equipment, it is not something I care to check. The sealed F3 spec's for a 3 cu ft box are 37hz. Others that installed the same speaker in a 6 cu ft box claimed a lower f3 point but I am too lazy to find the claims. It is plenty low for me and I just wanted a sub that did not boom and would fill in where my LaScala's fall off pretty rapidly. The super lows are not that important to me as others like, I am more of a great mid range guy with a decent bottom end. There are certainly better more expensive ways to get superior lows, it is just my belief as a I have stated cost vs performance it is the best way to go. I do not like a tuned port bass but it satisfies most of the commercial sub buyers. If anyone checks for commercial sealed subs you will find them not that common. They will not go as low as a port sub but they are generally quicker with better transients if you have a really well made speaker and plenty of power.

    What subs are you referring to here? Just curious. The debate on weather a sealed sub is "quicker" than its ported counterpart is all BS. Are you really trying to tell me that your sealed sub is faster and sound better than say a Rythmik FV15HP? Or, are you saying an SVS PB13 Ultra is slower and sloppier? I won't even list subs from PSA, Reaction, and JTR. Sealed subs are no quicker than a well designed ported. You might not like port chuffing....but as far as speed and accuracy is concerned, there is no difference.

    As for a horn - which in NOT a ported sub, lower distortion and effortless bass. At the same db a horn will be using less watts, and the cone will be moving less. For horns you just need room and the patience to build one. Look at the one Jason is building for himself. I'm betting it doesn't take up that much more floor space as your sealed. So, you can have horns fit into a confined space. If you wan midbass, it's hard to beat a horn with just a single sealed.

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