winglet
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Posts posted by winglet
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While t2a and the 3654 are providing the same attenuation in your networks, I’m going to guess the inductance is very different between the two.
There is a good thread on the other forum with some measurements of the t2a vs the 3636. The 3636 has nearly twice the inductance for a given attenuation vs the t2a. This differing inductance effects the slope of the networks.
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Not mine and no clue if it fits all the models the seller says it does. Seems like cheap insurance though if it fits yours..
Seller has other drivers available as well.
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8 minutes ago, Jdiesel87 said:
Well I wish I would have held off and just grabbed these in the first place. Oh well, maybe I will still order them and keep them on hand.
I wouldn’t waste the $85 bucks.. You won’t notice any difference
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Functioning tweeters will make a HUGE difference.
My quartets are far from muffled sounding.
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Tomorrow was yesterday…
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What makes you think you need a 4 ohm capable amp for all channels?
The speakers you’ve mentioned are all 8ohm nominal speakers. Either yamaha will drive them perfectly fine. I personally wouldn’t bother with a separate amp for that setup.
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May sound a bit better if you can angle them downward
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Been listed for a few weeks. Price keeps falling…
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It’s ferrofluid as you guessed.
K-79-k is the model stamped on the magnet. K79 refers to the same tweeter.
Tighter voice coil gap and increased sensitivity necessitated klipsch using the cooling fluid.
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Schematic looks correct. Just make sure all those grounds are connected like in this schematic..
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Well done. They look great, although I gotta say, I do like the vintage, beat up road warrior look of them previously
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K33e is available direct from Klipsch.
Pd-5vh mid drivers are sold new by a number of places.
This is for a single La scala cabinet? Center channel?
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A huge speaker with a a forward voiced mid. Forte II and quartet both attenuate the squawker more relative to the woofer/tweeter.
Chorus ii sounds bigger, but to me it’s also a bit shouty compared to the other two.
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Not enough room inside a heresy to add an adapter and then a k55 onto the end of a k701.
K701 also has a narrowing of the throat designed to work with the k53 phase plug.
Do your 1.5 definitely have the plastic k701? Some 1.5 had the metal k700 with threaded k53-
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55 minutes ago, OO1 said:
yep , the horn on the 1,5 Heresy is the plastic k-701 works with the K-55V , the Heresy E-2 crossover would not be an issue either with the K-55V .
There will be a minor issue mounting those resin k701 horns from the 1.5 into the 1.0
The upper and lower flanges of the metal horn narrow between the mounting screw holes. The resin k701 of course has the ‘round out’ for the woofer, but it’s upper flange is straight and will overlap the tweeter cutout in the motor board of the 1. You’ll need to notch it to fit.
The motorboard in the 1.5, klipsch raised the height of the tweeter cutout about 3/8” to make room for the k701 upper flange.
Screw holes may not line up exactly between the two either. My ‘77 they were close, but not perfect.
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8 hours ago, Audible Nectar said:
They aren't. They are 5db more efficient and ever present in the sound. They are a very sweet sounding tweeter but they are "hot" if not accounted/adjusted for (and on high end gear, whoa....). But that said, they wouldn't be "laid back" with the Klipsch tweeter either. All of my spidey sense points to something else being off here. "Laid back/muddy mids and highs" just don't match any average result that would be expected from any Cornwall, reasonably modified OR stock.
Are you sure you’re thinking about the ct125? It’s an eminence apt50 driver that is LESS sensitive than the k77 and more mellow sounding by most reviews.
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16 hours ago, Cambo5159 said:
Thank to you all for the comments. I'll get to the bottom of it.
My money is on the ct125 tweeters being far too laid back.
Double check the crossover wiring, but if they’re correct I’d leave them and swap the tweeter out for klipsch oem (k77?) or one of the other options available.
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No grilles and no serial tags..
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You need RCA cables between turntable out and receiver input
Speaker wire between receiver speaker outputs and the klipsch r-40
If you’re connecting the turntable and speakers to the same place on the receiver, I suggest you read the manuals.
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This is what Klipsch engineering quoted me as a replacement for the Forte 1 woofer. Little over a hundred each and you’ll need a pair
1060651 K-28-ST 12" WOOFER
If you wish to order, you can contact us at 800-554-7724, Option 1, between 8A.M.-5P.M. (EST) Monday-Friday.-
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1 hour ago, khorn79er said:
Thanks for the tip I appreciate it. Yes I'll take another look inside the speaker base. I'm pretty sure the previous owner upgraded the tweeters too and will confirm.
No need to look inside the cabinet.. You can see the tweeter diaphragm just looking down the horn from the outside.
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Beautiful condition. They’ll go quick.
If you look inside the tweeter horn you’ll be able to see the dome of the diaphragm behind the phase plug. If it’s silver, it’s most likely titanium. Crites or otherwise.
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26 minutes ago, CWOReilly said:
The H2 is MDF rather than plywood.
H2 are all sealed backs. Cabinet material depends on the year. Cabinets switched to veneered mdf in 1989 on the H2 according to HDBRbuilder (former klipsch employee).
Either way, motorboard should be plywood tho, but it is thin where the screws go due to the inset drivers.
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That golden or yellow mark on your mid driver is the positive side
help with new made Klipsch RF-83 crossover build, amp cutting out when volume is increased
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Ohms. Probably on the smallest scale on your multimeter if it has different ranges. They’ll measure in single digits or low tens depending on the driver
Disconnect the drivers from the network and measure them individually.