Fizik
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Posts posted by Fizik
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Received my iNuke today. Got everything hooked up, but I'm not getting any sound from it.
I went with RCA to 1/4 in adapters but they are stereo adapters and have two rings on them. But since the RCA is unbalanced would I need a mono adapter instead?
Looks like parts express recommends mono adapters.
Thanks
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SOLD
in Garage Sale
decent cables @ a decent price
very tempted, but as I only "want" them and do not "need" them, the boss said "no"
good luck w/ your sale
Thanks!
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I've had my Behringer wired for a 2 Ohm per side load for the last 7 or 8 years. Never had a hick up.
Yes they give power ratings for two ohms per channel, but being bridged would drop it to 1 ohm per channel and it doesn't appear to be 1 ohm stable. But good to know it can run that low for that many years with no issues.
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How do you know how much power each driver will take?
I have the specs for the drivers. Plus from what I could find out about the subs that used these drivers, they had 600 watt rms amps built in.
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I guess I don't really understand why you need another terminal on the box. I've never seen it done that way. Either series or parallel the voice coil at the driver and run 2 wires to the terminal.
There are two drivers, not one. So I'm going to put in a bi-wire terminal box, that way each subwoofer can be wired to 4 ohms and run on separate channels.
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I had this same issue happen not too long ago on my 818 with the December update. It could only be done via usb which is what i used and it kill the hdmi output. Everything else worked fine. It went into the local repair center since it was still under warranty. What happened is the board had been replaced a year before for the hdmi issue, and the firmware updates don't always include the software for the new board. The only way to fix it was for them to manually update each section of the receiver. I was told after that to never to an update myself since it will most likely happen again. Not very happy about that.
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Are you building this like an epic? Dual opposed in a single box? Or seperate boxes?
If one box run each sub in parallel for a 4ohm total then in series together for a 8ohm mono load. Bridge the inuke 3000 or 6000 for that would be just fine b
If seperate then each in a series would give you 4 ohm per channel. I nuke 6000 loves 4ohm per channel. That's what I run.
I'll put up a build thread soon, but it is in a single box and the stacked vertically. Forgot about the 8 ohm option, but the inuke won't put out much power at that ohm load. I'll probably just put a different terminal in and run it at 4 ohms per channel. Should give me about 620 rms per channel which should be just fine.
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I may have to, but the box has been designed and built and only has 1 terminal. I may just have to cut a larger hole and put a bi-wire terminal in instead.
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They are left over drivers from Epik. They were used in the Vanquish and Sentinel subs. I have confirmed with a multimeter that each coil reads 8 ohms.
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Can an iNuke run at 2 ohms in bridged mode or will it shut off the amp?
I'm wiring up a dual 12in subwoofer. Both woofers are 500rms and have dual 8ohm voice coils. So I can either wire them for 32 ohms (not going to happen) or 2 ohms.
I saw somewhere else that the 3000dsp puts out around 1000 rms into 1 channel at 2 ohms, so I may have to go that way if it can't be run at 2ohms in bridged mode.
Other option is I can cancel my iNuke order and get a different amp that can handle it of anyone has any other suggestions.
Thanks
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Interesting, I thought the newer drivers were the darker ones. The RF/S/C-3's for example were lighter than the II's. Strange they went back to the lighter. Wonder if there was a reason for that.
Maybe the older ones changed with age. I'm guessing the one I received is from the batch they made for the Classic RF-5 in 2009.
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just a FYI, the RC-7 woofers are different than the rf-5 although they look similar. I asked klipsch when i bought my replacement woofer for my rf-5 that was dented from when i bought them.
Klipsch has been good about maintaining replacements for this line and keep having new replacements made
The only difference is the shielding i believe. On their website they are listed as the same driver number: K-1083-SB
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Different color? Do you mean they're the darker copper like is used now?
The new ones are lighter. The older ones in both my rf-5 sets are darker and slightly more...reddish? So 7 out of 8 drivers match. Then there is the one new one.
(Top driver is the new one)
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Yes they do. I just ordered one just a few weeks ago to for a cosmetic replacement on one of my RF-5's.
They gave me a good deal and it was just about $63 shipped for the un shielded driver. New ones are pretty, but a different color than the older drivers.
If they still have the shielded version it may be more obviously.
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Got it. One of the woofers had the voice coil wires touching. Separated them and works perfectly now.
I had a pair of 5's that drove me crazy. You could listen all day long at moderate to semi loud levels and never have an issue. If you pushed them hard my receiver would go into protect mode. I had to disconnect all 7 speakers and add them one at a time to isolate the offender. The wires on one of the woofers voice coil would touch each other but only during high excursion. I bent them away from each other and never had another problem.
I could understand how that would get irritating. Fortunately it was just the one, new to me tower that did it. Haven't had an issue before or since. I'm really enjoying having 4 RF-5's in the same room.
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Mine don't appear to have any on the bottom either. Odd that the 6.5 in models didn't get those.
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Website is correct. There is not mounting bracket on the back of the larger models.
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SOLD
in Garage Sale
On 2/13/2015 at 7:21 PM, r2t2 said:Thx... I'm hoping for a local buyer, but at least I have the boxes if I have to ship. Are those RF-5's yours that are being listed? Those babys are real monsters!
Nope they weren't mine at the time. I contacted the guy to find out why he had them listed at $1600 and if he had accidentally put an extra 0 on the price (he said he put that since he didn't want to list them too low). I ended up picking them up on Saturday for a good price. They had a small dent in one cone, some wear on the top, and some broken grill tabs, but in nice shape over all.
I'm really enjoying having 4 RF-5's in one room.
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Bryant,
Does PE have any "open box" iNukes?
Looks like they have open box iNukes (3000dsp) for $250. But it appears they only come with a 6 month warranty. Not sure the $30 savings is worth losing the 3 year warranty.
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No longer need.
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Something else I noticed.
My first set of RF-5's, made in 2001 say on the sticker a max input of 150 watts.
My second set made in 2002 say a max input of 250 watts.
For reference I found a photo from one made in 2003 that goes back to 150 watts.
Is this just a sticker mix up? I've seen the 250 watts on RF-7's but not 5's.
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Got it. One of the woofers had the voice coil wires touching. Separated them and works perfectly now.
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Check the connections inside the speaker and see if there's some loose wire or alligators running to the low drivers. All it takes is a bad connection to ruin a good speaker. Also check your jumpers in back.
Checked all the connections, they are bi amped so no jumpers are being used.
iNuke No Sound Question
in Subwoofers
Posted · Edited by Fizik
I'm going from a single rca out of the receiver. That goes to a rca y cable, then the 1/4 adapters are on the end and plugged into the amp. From the amp is a pair of speakon cables with banana plugs on the end.
Amp is set to stereo, with a high pass at 20hz and a low pass at 120. The lfe filter on the receiver is set to 80hz.