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adam2434

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  1. Old thread, but relevant title... Used in a 2-channel system, I first owned RP-280F, then RF-7 II, and now currently RF-7 III. I found the RP-280F to be very bright/piercing at times, the RF-7 II less so, and the RF-7 III to be pretty even and neutral. This is all just my opinion based on the 3 different pair in the same room with the same electronics. For those with direct experience, how do the RP-8000F sound vs. the RP-280F? Are the RP-8000F (and 6000F) toned down at all in the upper mids and highs vs. the RP-280F? Reason I ask is because I am thinking about changing L/C/R speakers in the 5.1 system (separate system in different room). The 8000F or 6000F with the 600C center are in consideration, but are a bit down on the list because of my experience with the RP-280F.
  2. I keep this little, cheap battery powered Dayton amp in my car just for the purpose of testing speakers at thrift stores, CL, garage sales, etc. I just plug my phone in for the source. Not much power, but enough to determine if all drivers are functioning. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-1-class-d-ac-dc-battery-powered-mini-amplifier-15-wpc--300-380?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjw5dnmBRACEiwAmMYGOTCsROEiM9TtXXAZPIXNBdjP7KwVSQ_xt7XtKfcKja34MZjc0W8TLRoCLGoQAvD_BwE
  3. I'm not familiar with the OP's speakers, so I can't say if they are inherently bright. However, I have owned (and since sold) speakers that I thought were excessively bright and fatiguing (some Klipsch and some from other brands), even in rooms that have a decent amount of absorption. I'd say don't be afraid to try some treble control reduction and/or EQ. Assuming you ran the Audyssey calibration, for starters, you can try Audyssey "Reference" (which applies some HF roll-off EQ) and play with DEQ on/off. You can also further adjust the treble control if needed.
  4. I was thinking that you could just temporarily tape some thin plywood or something else rigid to the back of the cabinet, assuming some type of tape will stick well enough.
  5. To my knowledge, the Powergate does not have any crossover built-in. Were you previously driving the AW6500's with a different amp? Might also want to verify that you have speaker wire polarity correct. I don't have any bass complaints with a Powergate driving NHT SB3 bookshelf speakers. Now, its wi-fi streaming reliability, that's another story...not good at all in my experience. I've resorted to using a Chromecast Audio connected via optical. You might consider picking up a Chromecast Audio (discontinued, but still available on eBay). The Chromecast Audio has bass and treble controls for a bit of sound tweaking. Regarding the heat, I have mine sitting on top of an AC Infinity fan with the air blowing up. Keeps it cool.
  6. Yep, you are right. Tone controls are still available with Audyssey on the Marantz AV7704. I will research into and experiment with bass tone control increase vs. sub level increase.
  7. OK, thanks anyway for posting that. I'll do more research in this area and report back if I learn something significant.
  8. Yep, what you posted is basically what I discovered on my own, except that I've been playing with +6-7 dB sub(s) boost, and I am doing it in the source-specific "Options-Channel Levels" menu, rather than globally in the test tone settings. I already discovered that the SLA setting on the AV7704 is not the best to use, because it does not adjust from the calibrated level as a starting point. Can you point me to that AVS thread? I'd like to determine if there is more background on the recommended 5 dB sub boost. Thanks.
  9. Those "After" curves are predicted, not measured from what I understand. I don't think Audyssey is that good in reality. 😊 Adjusting sub levels up is a way to increase the bass below the LPF point - guess it would create a bass shelf in the summed curve. Not sure if Tone Controls are available when Audyssey is enabled - will need to check that out. Thanks.
  10. The nice thing about the MultEQ editor app is that one can limit the correction range to Schroeder (say somewhere between 200-300Hz), and leave the mids and highs uncorrected/filtered. If it works as intended, it would flatten the bass peaks and valleys a bit, and leave the rest alone. I think the issue with this is that a rising bass room curve is often preferred, and Audyssey targets flat bass. I believe this is why many folks then bump their sub levels several dB to get the rising bass response (kind of brute force and probably not the best way to get the intended room curve), but hopefully "better" bass response because major room-induced peaks and valleys are reduced. As a newbie to Audyssey and the MultEQ app, that's at least how I think of this at this point.
  11. Posting similar stuff at AVS, but thought I’d bring this topic to the Klipsch forum for additional input. This topic is more of a 2-channel music priority for me, but since it involves XT32, thought I'd post it here. Recently picked up a Marantz AV7704 pre/pro (coming from an Outlaw 975) and am using XT32 and the MultEQ Editor app for the first time. So far, I have found that the MultEQ app calibration without further adjustment sounds very thin and bass shy with 2-channel music, unless I boost sub levels (dual subs) about 6-7 dB. I believe this is due to the flat bass response that is targeted. This seems to be a common observation/complaint. I believe that I might prefer a more typical house curve (Harman-like, perhaps) with a rising bass response. This would be in the context of combined L/R/subs curves. BTW, I set my L/R to small and 80 Hz crossover after the calibration. My L/R in this system are Polk LS90 floorstanders. Subs are dual Outlaw 12" models. So, I’m curious if other folks feel that the bass needs tweaking after calibration and would like to know what you’ve done to tweak. I don’t have REW capabilities (yet) and realize that this is probably needed to really understand the baseline and impact of adjustments. The MultEQ app curve editor provides the ability to tweak the individual channel curves, but I know that I’m probably shooting in the dark without REW. I know that some folks have bumped L/R bass frequencies with the curve editor and bumped sub level(s) to achieve a smooth rising bass response (and they confirmed this with REW). Just looking for some experience and insight on this topic. Thanks. For reference, I attached screenshots of the L/R and subs "Before" curves from 2 separate app calibrations. Assuming these "Before" curves are accurate, looks like the room transition is at around 250-300 Hz.
  12. Yeah, the Forte I are on risers in the unfinished portion of our basement. I'm standing most of the time in this area, which is mainly the home gym and workshop area. Also, they are raised to clear some utility and storage stuff in this area. I use them in a 2.1 configuration now, with dual subs. I also use this system to evaluate other speakers (bookshelf speakers sitting on top of the Forte 1) in 2.1. This system is a bit of a "test rig" I've used to play with dozens of speakers over the years. I previously had RF-7 II where the RF-7 III now reside (first floor open concept area). The RF-7 II were a bit bright. The RF-7 III are more balanced, IMO. I don't feel the RF-7 III have a depressed midrange at all. I really like the RF-7 III, which is why I'm considering moving them down to the 5.1 system in the finished portion of the basement, where I feel they would get more use. The RF-7 III are closer to 100 lb. each, but moving them is not a problem. I'm a pretty big guy with an able-bodied 17 year old son for back-up (😊). It's the fine-tuning of position that is a pain with the RF-7 III on carpet. I will remove the spikes for this the next time I move them. I'm pretty curious about how the Forte I will sound where the RF-7 III reside. I need to make some time to do this, as trying this will be the only way to know how I feel about the Forte I in this room vs. the RF-7 III. I realize this thread is probably a bit confusing because it involves swapping speakers in 3 separate systems, but ultimately it's about the comparison of the currently-residing RF-7 III vs. moving the Forte I into this location.
  13. Not doubting your observation, just find it interesting that the Forte I and Forte III would have significantly different bass. I think I just need to bite the bullet and try the Forte I in System 3. If they sound good and have adequate bass in this large, open family room, I will really consider moving the RF-7 III to the finished basement room 5.1 system (and purchase the RC-64 III). So, the net would hopefully be an upgrade to the 5.1 system (System 1), without a downgrade to System 3.
  14. Interesting, I have never heard Forte III, but I would not describe my Forte I as having "loose" bass. Again, I have no comparison to the Forte III though. However, I have never listened to my Forte I in a "normal" room/placement. They are in the large, unfinished section of our basement, and are on risers to get the tweeters near ear level while standing (which I know reduces bass output). I have used them in 2.0 and 2.1 (bass managed at 80 Hz) in this system (System 2 in my sig). If it was not such a pain to move and place the RF-7 III, I would just move them out of System 3 and try the Forte I there. However, sounds like the Forte I would would give up some bass performance to the RF-7 III in 2.0.
  15. I wonder how the Forte I and Forte III compare, in terms of bass. Probably similar?
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