RoboKlipsch
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Posts posted by RoboKlipsch
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12 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
Yes. Music as well. I think the main are crossed around 40 or 50 Hz. It's been over 10 years since I set it up. If you didn't look up you'd never know there was a subwoofer there. It sounds like the mains have an unlimited bottom end. If you have smaller speakers you can cross higher as the IB is extremely clean up high as well. It acts similarly to a large sealed box in its response curve.
How does infinite deal with lack of placement options or by tuning it so low does it not much matter? 40 i can see but at 50 there's some modes.
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Improve your TV w a calibration disc. Buy the spears and munsil one on amazon and be amazed that no tv is sent to a house properly calibrated. 30min to 1 hr to get 2x the picture. Use it for all modes i.e. sports vivid standard etc. Each is separate usually.
The echo is in part the couch at the back wall (bad) but more generally the room and you need acoustic treatment to improve that. Diy about 200 to 400 or from a supplier perhaps 500 to 1000 will get you to an incredible room. You can even buy treatments with your photos or images added so the wife can choose and make the room really nice.
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12 hours ago, derrickdj1 said:
No one can tell you that you made a bad choice going with a horn vs Marty sub. Wattage, power requirements, no real world difference. You can use a smaller driver and less power with a horn sub but, in the real world it will be less than $1.00 in your monthly electric bill. These Marty subs are like Klipsch, very efficient and great sensitivity. So, it is a matter of a 5 star energy rating vs a 4.9 star energy rating. I have a feeling in the next 30 days, I will be building another Mini Marty. I am curious to consider a B&C driver for more mid bass.
Ddj please contact me before going to b&c i will point you at another option to consider too ☺
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You would imo have to sit 20 feet away or more before it came into play.
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4 hours ago, adam2434 said:
Dr. Toole has been posting on an AVS thread, and I have been thinking about posing the following questions on that thread. Basically, I’m wondering if there are situations where flat frequency response is trumped by other factors. I have not read his books, so perhaps these areas are covered in the books. I should read a book.
1) Distortion vs. SPL:
As SPL increases, is there a point at which a lower distortion speaker with less flat frequency response is preferred to a higher distortion speaker with a flatter frequency response? For example, let’s say that at 80 dB, the flatter frequency is preferred, but at 95 dB, could lower distortion dominate preference vs. frequency response?
2) The listening room – dead vs. live:
Can preference swing away from flat frequency response depending on whether one’s room is at the extreme of reflective vs. absorptive for high frequencies? For example, in a large, relatively dead room, could one prefer a speaker that has more high frequency output vs. a flatter speaker?
3) One’s hearing:
If one’s high frequency hearing is diminished due to age or other factors, could one prefer a speaker with more high frequency output vs. a flatter speaker? Could this factor plus the dead room factor be additive in terms of one preferring a speaker with more high frequency energy?
This is where imo he is no longer as relevant. On avsforum and gearslutz there are true experts in applied design that discuss at length these questions as they apply to a room or a particular situation.
I view him as a pioneer and still relevant for the basics but when i read the advanced design principles being applied in todays recording studios, home theaters and commercial venues.. ..these pros are solving these problems constantly and very successfully. No dedicated studio or theater would use the minimalist approach he tends to suggest.
Same for what is important....go to gearslutz where they build studios they will send away someonenwho only discusses FR....they spend all their time on decay and discuss endlessly the balance of decay vs response.
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Many of the big martys are built and crossed at 40hz but honestly every design is good to 100hz up until maybe a tuning below 15hz.
Theres no debate they are great subs and the horn subs are too...its really a preference. I have tons of measurements...the first page of the official martysub page has it all.
Theres even a budget version for those that want to build 8 or 16 cheap....i think thats the vbss sub
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I worked with DdJ to get my 2 big 18" martys and i built 3 of my own with 2 15" drivers. Fantastic subs with 100s of builds it is well proven.
The lil wrecker and f20 are also very popular and proven.
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I first read passages of the book....online no less and free....on your reco Chris. It was great and so helpful.
With that said i agree with much of what you say and will go further -- i get that toole is one of the great gurus of showing some science behind what was often good guessing.
But i look at his living room theater -- mediocre honestly, no real effort to have a dedicated room and say to myself and now the2 forum - he is brillant but obsolete.
We (the community) have gone beyond his initial findings and have created a very advanced world of home theater and 2 channel sound.
I could not agree more the comments of 87db sensitivity was fine in the earlier edition but klipsch is beyond popular now and a top brand. Not addressing this tells me his studies from decades ago are what hes got and hasnt really attempted to step up to see todays situation.
He was an early proponent of horns and constant directivity or at least controlled directivity but doesnt seem to be moving with the times.
Even his theories on treatment....that minimal treatment is ideal....may again appeal to the masses and be "reasonable"....but are long past proven not to be ideal.
Ive reviewed designs for a hundred studios, theaters and the like and minimal treatment is not ideal. It is the minimum!
With that said i greatly appreciate his contributions but moreso yours Chris. Your willingness to call foul is a good thing.
There are some basic questions most of us have that he can answer definitively and its my understanding that before him that was not the case.
Imo its darn exciting to be at what is really still the early stages of truly great audio reproduction.
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plasmas are millions of tiny phosphor cells....once thats messed up its game over no fixing it imo
cec is right it was dropped hard and was killed instantly
with decent 4k tvs at 500 no way!
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As JA said....its you room. i had a set for a year and did not have this issue.
people spend years and $$$$$ chasing a bad room with different equipment
a couple acoustic panels on the side walls will improve everything
dont be afraid and dont hesitate....its about $100 (retail) to solve this
same issue people have with the endless questions "should i upgrade my center channel"....in 95% of situations its the room
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actually i say no the rp250c is very nice
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2 hours ago, Youthman said:
I just received an email from Slick Deals for RP-250S for $250 (Single Speaker) - https://www.adorama.com/kprp250sb.html?sdtid=10602776&emailprice=t&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_source=rflaid62905
Nor sure if that's a good deal or not.
i contacted 2 dealers a yr ago one wanted 500 one wanted 600 for a pair so in the ballpark but i would guess 450ish is now possible and if you are Yman perhaps $75 used somewhere in Fla lol
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quality is better but i might wait to change them out later after other upgrades
all depends on budget and motivation ☺
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is the sub set to ON or standby on the back?
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Surrounds at a certain height come into better focus. In a theater there are often multiple rows of seats and they are high to reach all seats. In this living room its flexible but i think say 5 or 6 feet is ideal but whatever height i would want the one on a stand to match so i would look at stands and match the height to the stand. Anything above ears is good and a little higher allows the whole room to hear them better. If the couch is your main listening seat it really should come forward a few feet the wall will reflect a lot of sound at you.
In the theater pic u can see how they tilted all the surrounds down to try and reach ears to compensate for the higher mounting.
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I can only see the one picture but I assume there is no wall there ?.... so you want to face the speakers at each other.
Stands are often used in your situation but yours are very high up the wall....how about lowering the other one and putting the one you want to rotate on a stand or putting both on stands...which solves your double door problem and lets you place them forward from the back wall. Sound quality would be way better imo ☺
A more complicated solution for you or a carpenter friend is to build a small shelf for it in that same spot and face it as you suggest. It could also hang from the ceiling but that would be a complicated job imo and my first suggestion is far superior for audio quality.
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it is ideal....seamless transitions and matching sound.
your situation is minor....move each piece left or right theres room in front.
move the left one there to see how it looks and show her as a test
people spend years and lots of cash chasing center channels you have a chance here to do it right once!
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Raise the crossover to 80 or 100 that should do it w speakers set to small.
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In the Denon are the speakers set to LARGE? That would be the most straightforward explanation.
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you will be much happier imo with a center that matches. put it in front of the entertainment center theres room tilt it like the others.
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without subs you go large and when you get subs you go small...small tells the Denon you want the subs to handle below the crossover point....large for now says u have no subs and the main speakers should handle it all
i like both the 160s and bipole surrounds. its truly a preference and for sides i do really like the bipoles but either will be Great
short answer on subs is that one sub is always enough but if you want a really hq theater 2 makes for much more consistent bass over a larger area. you want subs to be audibly invisible....u dont know where they are and if possible for bass to be very consistent. with one sub its possible but quite often it will only sound 'great' in one small area. 2 really takes it up a level but not because of volume....because it is smoother. also your denon has 2 sub inputs it will very nicely integrate 2 for you.
used is always a nice option. i got my 160s for about 250 + shipping
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Sub delays make a big difference. With measurements u can get it exactly right but for someone with a good ear like u im sure you can do well. Subs are almost always delayed unless mains are further and even in those situations it still may need delay. Avsforum has an amazing tutorial google mtg90 integrating multiple subs and mains....doing what he said for the subs made a huge difference...it can be 15db increased output at the crossover. Avrs are poor at sub distances ime
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Google the manual. All the answers are there.
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I use 4 subs with my 160s so i like subs. They are rated to maybe 45hz and thats a stretch. A lot of content is from 20 to 45 in a movie. Music would be ok but anything modern might be lacking.
Klipsch RP-250S Wall Mount Issue. Did You Find that Needle in the Haystack?
in Home Theater
Posted
That is the right disc, i used it on my 4k tv and my 1080. Be amazed!
Treatment is labor intensive but ez. Ill find you a couple diy threads later today or tomorrow and give u an idea what u need.