RoboKlipsch
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Posts posted by RoboKlipsch
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Had u ever considered finishing a box with a team logo on it like the Colts or Pacers? Just curious. Nobody ever seems to do that but i thought it might be cool
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There's a lot of if's and what about's but in the end, it was a direct threat to you personally.
It's your property. It was a threat to you on your property.
Warning: Disturbing video ahead....
The other side of course is the bird. In a certain sense he feels it's his property, and most people and I'm sure you, don't mind those thoughts.
There's kind of an odd yet nice natural order of things usually with nature and people.
When that order gets disturbed, and a battle ensues, what tools do you each use?
The bird uses everything he's got, which is speed, sound and talons...nasty talons.
You get to use anything you've got, which is..whatever you've got.
In this seriously disturbing video, watch an owl attack and kill a human:
(LOL!)
The state says hey here's what we think but no chance we have the resources to relocate the bird that has a property dispute with you
That leaves you to decide then for yourself, but if you ask me:
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Looking back that was an insane price. The guy who made those must really have wanted to help everybody out at that price. The 18HO from Dayton now is I think like $260, which is the closest to it I think.
So on a tangent Scrappy, Gates, Arthur Bryants, or some other one I've never been to for your fave Cue?
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There are singles for sale sometimes also, which is cool.
The RC52 is a nice center but will break the budget if purchased along with the fronts.
I would consider the idea of 3 of the RB51s, really nice idea.
The RB51s are nicer and better built than the current R-15M, which I also own.
But the R15Ms are also inexpensive especially in the used market.
Here's a single on ebay available for best offer. There's usually several pair for sale at any given time also.
Several pair sold recently for $150-$200, and often many are on craigslist. I got my pair for a steal on ebay in an auction.
RK
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Let me make clear:
Before selling this sub, the person who sold it to me was contacted directly, and offered a few options:
> Buy it back (because he could make a profit himself)
> Request that it be sold at the exact same price I purchased it for
> Share in profits that are generated if any
When I posted this up, I did not even want to set a price, I wanted to sell it to a member and asked for some offers. The thread title reflects this.
I was told that isn't acceptable, I can't just accept offers because to some, that is considered an auction. (see the first few posts)
To me, that was just a request to sell it to someone who needs it, but it's not my forum so I listened to the members.
So I set an asking price. I spent all of 2 minutes thinking about it. A week after posting on craigslist, my price seems to have set the market price here in Chicago, another person posted one for the same in worse condition. The only other one in the area is asking $1000
The person who asked the question this morning put me in touch with the original seller, and for that I am thankful. However, the same person was told in a PM long ago: "I sent a note to XXXXX that I might do a DIY type project and sell the RSW. I gave him a heads-up because he was great about selling it to me at a low price, and I offered to share a profit if I made one or that I would resell at the same. "
So if you read that, and know what question was asked, part of the story becomes clear, which was the questioner himself was told directly what was happening and why. An objection could have been sent privately to me, if there was one.
Instead, it was posted here, because there is more to the story, and I won't go on any further.
My 2c is this: I am an honest, up-front person. I sell for a living, and understand all sides of a sale and in every post I have made, have been respectful and friendly to everyone. Some deals happen and some don't. I will simply say this about the RSW sub that is for sale:
I have not rejected anybody's offer from this forum, or countered anyone.
I have had offers, good ones, on craigslist, for more than I purchased it for, and am holding out to see who wants it in this forum.
At some point, not long from now, I'll simply sell it if there's no interest here.
Nobody has been told they can't have it, nobody has been told their offer is too low here on the forum.
I think most people understand there's a difference between asking price and "firm".
RK
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Having read the entire martysub faq thread i can confirm the original design of the subs was the SIHT18 (shxt!!!! Lol). They were originally under 200 each as a group buy for a great 18 that worked. Now SI offers an 18 that performs and costs more like the umax.
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On ebay i also see test tone discs from Dayton selling for $5 which is a good option if u dont want to make those connections
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I see rb51s around for 100 to 125 a pair. They claim a response down to the 40s. Nice quality for the price imo.
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I'm looking to do the basic measurements.
Any thoughts on the best choice combining price and features?
I know phones have mics but I would assume they aren't nearly good enough?
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Any forum members interested in the sub? I have had inquiries off craigslist but would rather give a deal to a forum member.
Please PM me if interested.
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Which drivers did you decide to use?
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google graphic design degree
and add the specific area or region you are in
and you'll find a simliar link to a local school
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Weird that I have had to reboot the modem everyday for the last few days to get back up to speed (but this doesn't help the PS3). I just went around and restarted the modem, 2 routers (1 wireless) and 4 switches to bring our wired network back up to nominal. PS3 still sucks; I just cancelled the Sony Vue subscription, back to OTA. Suspecting modem issues, too bad it's mine and only a few months old.
My experience with comcast had this issue and it was a signal issue through the line where what they were sending was too weak, and was intermittent. Sometimes it worked fine, sometimes hardly at all, and everything in between. Once they improved the signal it worked much better. This is in regards to resetting it, not the speed issue.
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I have a lot of print experience having worked at several companies years ago.
The easiest and best solution if you don't know someone directly is to contact a local college, preferably a smaller one or community one and get in touch with their staff who teach graphic design. They will have students there that can design it for you at a very very small cost for practice.
In today's print world most everything is printed digitally (i.e. fancy printers) unless there's a very, very long run being produced (typically millions). Printing presses exist but are never used for small runs anymore.
The ability to print the item cheaply is critically important when DESIGNING the brochure, so have some flexibility and work with your designer to make sure the printer can produce it cheaply. There's a good chance that for a fee the school will print it using their printers. The simplest and easiest way to print a multi-page brochure of this sort if it's a very small run is to use ledger size paper (11x17), available at any office supply store. This can be folded in half (17 down to 8.5) into a 4-page brochure. Not as fancy and nice as a folding 6 pager, but easier and cheaper to produce. But that's just one option.
Here's a web page with a phone number to the department at your local school down there. Give them a call and let them know exactly what you want to do, they will almost for sure help you one way or another. How can a teacher refuse to give a student a great opportunity like this? At worst they'll direct you to one of their past students who now does it for a living and will likely give you a big discount as a NFP.
https://www.usm.edu/undergraduate/art-graphic-design-bfa
RK
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i don't even know how people make subs without these? Invest Derrick!You need a track saw and a Jasper Jig.
FATHER'S DAY GIFTS.........hmmmm???
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Thanks Derrick. I realize my sub setup will have cost more than the rest of my system combined...but thats largely because i got great deals on each component.
Coming to the realization that almost all subs at stores are not sufficient and one of any sub wont make a HT great is a process. Its been surprising and eye opening to realize just how difficult it is to fill a ht room with enough low end bass to really reproduce a movie properly.
I told a friend I was selling my RSW and his reaction was "oh? Was it overkill in your room?" shows just how far ive come in 6 months.
Full Bass Addict
What can I say, friends grow apart.
One of the funniest quips I've seen on this forum
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I'm no expert but I do think there are two very different concepts going on here.
I do have tactile transducers in my couch and on a chair that I installed.
The purpose of those transducers is to vibrate something ON PURPOSE, and in doing so, I am trying to achieve as much as possible.
IN FACT, I was instructed to install the TTs onto boards first, and then install them onto the couch and chair.
The reason for this is that by doing so, I transfer MORE of the vibration directly to the objects I want to vibrate. The board transmits the vibration better than the other materials on the furniture. Even if I didn't specifically add them to the boards first, and then the furniture, the clear instructions were to mount them onto either wood or metal.
So consider that.
In my basement, I have my RSW sub on the carpeted floor, on feet, and it plays great just as it is.
Upstairs, I have two smaller subs playing in that theater, on a hardwood floor.
I noticed, just by observation, that they were transmitting vibration through the rubber feet, onto the floor. This includes the R-10SW from Klipsch.
By placing each of them onto a thick welcome mat, folded over (about 2 inches thick total), there was a considerable improvement in clarity of the sound, and it seemed to me that it was largely due to less vibration being transferred directly into the floor.
SVS, a well-respected ID builder, sells a very expensive isolator, as do many others. I THINK, but do not know, the reason is what I just described, a form of decoupling the subs from the surface it is placed onto.
The other part of this discussion is about cabinet design and vibration. I would think and assume that the less braced a cabinet is, the MORE vibration is can have. And to Jason's points, THIS vibration can be minimized or reduced through proper build principles.
So I think bad cabinet design can very well lead to increased vibrations. It can also lead to the sub moving around, which may or may not be solved with the isolator.
Does this help the discussion at all?
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Just stick will ported subs, no real reason to mix unless you already have them. I have both types but, I am using the Full Marty ported subs for music. The bass is just as nice as the sealed subs. This fat vs thin bass and slow vs fast is really just a matter of phase and time alignment. Now if you are into pike organ music this may be a reason to go with multiple sealed subs or a low tune big a$$ ported sub, lol.
I almost went with one of the new marty cube flat packs from diy sound group, but from what i've read, that box wouldn't be large enough for the SI DS4 18.
I spent about a month researching every possible option...driver, box size, sealed, ported, and demo'd some also so that I had a reference point.
You already have a plan but for anybody else looking into this, I'd like to try and address that. Everything I am writing here is not my research it is from the designers themselves talking about the builds:
For the DIYSG ported 15, the Dayton 15" RO driver is basically the one and only that works in the smaller box. SI used to have a 15 but don't anymore. (4cft)
For the DIYSG ported 18, they recommend at this point basically only the Dayton 18" RO, because its characteristics fit well with the smaller box (5.4cft)
For true DIY, in a sealed format, basically the Dayton RO18, Ultimax or the DS4 will all work at around 4cft and will be even better if you can build a bit bigger.
For true DIY in a ported format, the Dayton 15 RO works well in the micro size, the Dayton 18RO works well in the cube size.
For true DIY in a ported format, the Dayton Ulitmax or SI DS4 are recommended as the size increases to at least the Johnny and definitely for the mini and martys. At the realistic limits of a build (say 20cft or 25cft), the DS4 MIGHT eek out a bit of something over the Ultimax, but as a very new driver it is not as well tested yet as the Ultimax and has not been tested yet by Ricci at data-bass.com
That distills a LOT of reading and research to better understand what works and what doesn't. Modelling in WIN Isd is actually a lot of fun, and as long as you have a version that shows the excursion, you can quickly see why certain drivers work better in certain size boxes.
Hopefully you don't consider this a thread-crap (!). I just hope I can save someone else a lot of research should they be looking into the same ideas.
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Forum errored out every time i tried to post the strong arm pic lolol
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Thanks Derrick. I realize my sub setup will have cost more than the rest of my system combined...but thats largely because i got great deals on each component.
Coming to the realization that almost all subs at stores are not sufficient and one of any sub wont make a HT great is a process. Its been surprising and eye opening to realize just how difficult it is to fill a ht room with enough low end bass to really reproduce a movie properly.
I told a friend I was selling my RSW and his reaction was "oh? Was it overkill in your room?" shows just how far ive come in 6 months.
Full Bass Addict
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My ps4 download speed ia probably 20x what it wasnon the ps3....and thats the same connection. I fully believe they restrict speed on the ps3 vs the ps4.
To me its like cell phones they magically get worse after a few years....so u have to upgrade. Thats my 2c.
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Sweet. Marble top will look great.
BackBum Buster Sub
in Subwoofers
Posted
The box is big enough to make an 18in driver look tiny!