mopardave
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Posts posted by mopardave
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7 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said:
the rolloff at 400 Hz. is the Horn. The rolloff at 6 Khz. is the Driver.
Pretty sure my horn is the 11x17 thou. Do they roll off they same as the 10x18?
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1 hour ago, mopardave said:
Yes, universal and -2 and 9 are where they are set running the mid 4db above the woofer. I had L pads but found running the tweet at 0 was best to my ear and removed them. Where should my cross over point be and how can I change that?
Here's something i found.ZXPC 18" x 10" Two Inch Format Horn - Technical/Modifications - The Klipsch Audio Community
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17 minutes ago, Deang said:
What is the Fc of that horn? Is there a spec sheet on it?
I have no idea. I’ll see what I can find.
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14 minutes ago, dtr20 said:
You can thank me and my father for the chorus II badge. My father had a friend design the script and I worked with the guy in Russia to make it. It looks really nice in person
I bought my Cornscala script badges from a guy in Russia who advertised on EBay.
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17 minutes ago, Deang said:
You said these sound better than the CSW 450, but they are the same network except for the parts I use. Anyways, the big cap is 47uF, and should probably be 33uF - but if you’re not listening at insane levels, you’re probably fine.Yes, I think they have a cleaner more transparent sound than the original ALKs. So if I switch out the 47 for 33 it will cross over at 500hz? I listen up to 90db levels. Sounds very nice.
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52 minutes ago, Deang said:
That is funny, because those ARE ALK Universals. I built them as a favor for Kevin.
Anyways, there are three input taps on the autoformer - 0, -1, and -2. This would be the short red wire. The longer wire goes to the output taps. You subtract the input number from the output number to get your attenuation level. I’m guessing you should be -2 and 9, or -7dB. A good starting point.
Since those were built for Klipschorns, the tweeter is being run full out. So, you have a problem there unless you added an L-pad. The crossover point is also 400Hz, which is too low for that horn. I usually go a half octave above the Fc of the horn at a minimum.
The wiring is fine. I forgot Al and me decided to make the new design biamp capable (I was against it).
Gently lift and straighten those resistors. They get hot and will burn through the capacitor below them.
Yes, universal and -2 and 9 are where they are set running the mid 4db above the woofer. I had L pads but found running the tweet at 0 was best to my ear and removed them. Where should my cross over point be and how can I change that?
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14 minutes ago, mopardave said:
Might be 7x11 from the looks of it.
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Just now, mopardave said:
I don't think they have been modified at all. It all started out, I was just borrowing them. It ended up, I bought them. I don't know they are a good match, but they sound better than the ALK universals. I'm using the zxpc horn. 11x10 i think.
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11 minutes ago, Deang said:
There were in his modded Klipschorns, how did you end up with them.
I can’t tell what’s going on with them because it looks like they’ve been modified.
What horn are you using.
I don't think they have been modified at all. It all started out, I was just borrowing them. It ended up, I bought them. I don't know they are a good match, but they sound better than the ALK universals. I'm using the zxpc horn. 11x10 i think.
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3 hours ago, Deang said:
I don't think I built that network for that speaker, did I? Where did you get it -- from Kevin?
Edit: Did I even build that? There is no label and the connections on the terminal strip don't look right.
Yep, you built them for Kevin. Think he was gonna use them in his Khorns.
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1 hour ago, Deang said:
Tap 2 with one 2.5uF = -9dB (101dB)/1000Hz
Tap 2 with two 2.5uF parallel= -9dB (101dB)/500Hz
Tap 1 with one 2.5uF = -12dB (98dB)/500Hz
Tap 1 with two 2.5uF parallel= -12dB (98dB)/250Hz
To keep the crossover at "500Hz", you can either use Tap 2 with 5uF (two 2.5uF in parallel), or Tap 1 with a 2.5uF
Don't mean to steal the post, but would like to ask Deang a question while he's on. Do you think I have your cross over set up correctly with my components? DE120 108db, DE85 107db and a Kappa 3015LF 96db. crossover is at 9 and -2, so looks like i'm playing the mid about 4db above the woofer.
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6 hours ago, TubesGlo said:
Nice! They stole your TV but left that sweet stereo system?
HAHAHA! Yeah, not a bad trade. We just bought this house and getting things moved in. Not sure why the other people had that tv so low. This will be a listening room and a Theater room as well. I moved the speakers out from the back wall about 1 foot and spread them out to 9 feet center to center and have about 1.5 feet from each wall. This room is in a basement as well. Still more playing to do.
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sent from my phone, not sure why it turns the pics, but you get the idea.
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On 12/10/2021 at 4:57 PM, TubesGlo said:
I've tried everything and ended up with them close to the outside walls toed in so they cross a couple feet in font of me. They're 10' apart on center and I'm 10' from each speaker. So far this sounds the best.
Ok, just remeasured and I’m actually at 8.5 center to center and 11 feet back. I am close to the back wall, which if I pull them out 1 foot, that would give me the 10 listening distance. I have the cross overs at 9 and -2 right now . I just moved these into my 2nd home and need to spend some time with them.
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Very nice. What have you found for the best placement and distance from the speakers? I currently have mine at about 7 feet apart and sit 12 feet back, but it seems the closer i sit to them the better it feels/sounds.
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I will try the minwax on the bottom just to see, but i plan on picking up another can of Watco next weekend. Thanks guys
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Anyone know the difference between these 2 oils? Been using Watco, but I’m at my weekend home and all I have is Minwax. Should I use the Minwax over the Watco?
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I need to apply another coat of tung oil to my walnut cornscala . Last year I used watco brand. All I could find at Menards was Minwax. Can I use the minwax or should I wait and get some more watco tung oil?
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Here’s an update on the hot receiver issue. I found that Marantz and Demon receivers have the biggest issue with heat. Yamaha and pioneer are said not to have these issues. What I did was factory reset the receiver. Problem solved. Receiver now cool in standby mode.
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On 10/29/2020 at 10:10 PM, geoff. said:
Just to clarify, the ALK CSW crossover you are using now is NOT an “off the shelf” unit? The stock unit would be for a 16 ohm mid.
Yours was designed and built specifically for an 8 ohm squawker?
If not, you are crossing the woofer at over 1000 hz, and would have a hole in the response. I don’t know about a 25 db hole, but it would be significantly quieter. And lacking everything Klipsch about it.
Having said that, I did experience a similar presentation with my Cornscala builds. Far more neutral, detailed and present, but missing the bite of a Cornwall. Not unlike a Chorus 2.
It is almost as if an exponential mid-horn is a requirement for “in your face” sound.
You also say your mids are adjusted 11 db down?
I think I read in another post mids 5 db above the LF section gives good results. So if your woofer is maybe 98 db and your mid is 108, you could try only 5 or 6 db of attenuation on the mids. If the crossover was in fact designed for an 8 ohm squawker.
I also found that, all things being equal, the large tractrix “type” horns have a “kinder, gentler, machine-gun hand”, they are not as forward as what we have come to expect from a Cornwall, or a Heresy.
I am following this thread pretty close now. That mid horn in your build, actually all the components in your build, should yield some pretty spectacular results once you get it dialed in!
Just an update, I have the mid attenuated at 9 and the tweets at 0. This has been the best setting i have found as of now on the Cornscala. Will be moving them to a much larger room soon(10x10 to 16x24), will see how that goes.
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On 10/15/2021 at 9:38 AM, Shiva said:
I'm a Pioneer A/V receiver guy, When my receiver is off, its stone cold. Something seems amiss if yours is that hot when powered off. You could look at the manual and see power draw in standby mode. It probably says .05 watts or something similar.
.2 watts in standby and 2.7 watts in network stand by. It is said in the manual that if HDMI pass thru is turned on, to keep the unit unplugged when not using. Not sure what HDMI pass thru is or if it should be turned on or off. Looks like this thing is going to be a large learning curve for sure.
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Hey thanks. Didnt know these were available. I got a disc but no manual with a M1504 i bought new.
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What is M-DAX and pure direct? The M-DAX was on, i turned it off and now the temps in standby are 98* . I hate how you dont get a manual with your new gear any more. I will be glad to get it to the new home and set up, but that is a few weeks away.
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ok, ill check that.
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Finished My "Cornscala" Project
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
Here's a spec sheet i just found if anyone else is interested in this horn. It seems this is a copy of the Selenium HL4750-SLF.