Maximus89
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Posts posted by Maximus89
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Thanks, i took a quick look at some and while they look the part of something that will work perfectly, i'm just not sure how they'd connect to each device but ill figure it out!
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2 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
A "y" adapter FROM the sub? I'm not sure I understand your signal chain.
So one line can go to the Sub out on the preamp for movie LFE track and the other to the Left or Right speaker input on the preamp
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I've got a similar, slightly different question. I use an RSW-15 which has no hi level inputs. I use an analog multi-channel preamp with a sub out for my multi-channel HDMI DAC. Sub kicks on for movies and tv just fine and i can use it if i use the HDMI DAC for music, but it's just not as musical as the preamps built in option board DSD DAC which is only USB/Toslink/Coaxil inputs. I DO NOT want to lose the .1 LFE of my HDMI Dac for movies, but i want to add sub for 2ch analog simultaneously.
Can i run a y adapter from the subwoofer and connect one to the LFE sub out of the Pre and the other to a y adapter to the back of the preamp output which will split one to a power amp input and the other will have the subwoofer input. As i understand it, i would get a 3db boost if i use L+R input from the sub, but it is not necessary and i wouldn't need to run 3 long cables(L/R+LFE). Will i cause an issue doing this?
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15 hours ago, sixspeed said:
I tried some of their older stuff from the 70s, 90s and early 2000s and it was terrible. Mushy, laidback and rolled off. But some people love that mushy warm sound. I just think their new stuff sounds 100x better, it's night and day in my experience. So their sound signature has changed quite a bit -- for the better. If you want that sound tube amps are 100% the way to go with a high quality SS pre.
This is what i thought of my early 2k's era Mac amp, it sounds exactly like you described and i've since moved to a 1991 built Accuphase P-360 and it's worlds different. I almost pulled the trigger on an MC402 previously. Would that be the way you would describe that amp too? I see most have it as a highly regarded amp in Mac's history. I was also near pulling the trigger on an MC7200 or MC7300, i don't remember but it was a direct coupled amp/no mac autoformer which is supposed to sound different from the laid back rolled off muddy sound. I already owned an MC7106(direct coupled) that can bridge to 320wpc and it's definitely better than the autoformer mac amp im selling, but i passed on the 7300 because i felt it was just my 7106 on roids. Accuphase build quality blew me away but McIntosh is so easy to service here if there is any issues.
Are there amps you can recommend in the 2-3k range from the last 10-11 years you think sound night and day from their past eras? What makes them different? Quad balanced?
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6 minutes ago, Bubo said:
Interesting, any model suggestions ?
The P-102(1987) was the model i was looking at, same design as my P360(1991) that i decided to go with because i wanted more power to get my CF-4 drivers moving. Pictures don't do it justice. That wood paneling, and the champagne colors with the light hitting on it scream top quality and tank build on the inside. Built to last. There was an older model that you could switch Class A on and off. As you hit 90s model Class A amps, they are all listed on their website under product museum, Class A's are A-*** models. I think the mono A-100 was the first monster, 100watt mono. A-20(1995), A20V(2000) pop up affordable in the 2k range. A-30 and A-35 as well. The 50 or 60 or bigger monos still fetch a pretty penny. Accuphase mark up in the States and Europe is ridiculous i must say. Really depends on your price range and how comfortable you feel spending on an older amp that are truly built to last, but hard to service if you do have an issue.
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For sure. I sold my Khorns + Dean's AA crossover to try the CF-4. I love my CF-4 v.1 and they sound killer with my new to me Accuphase set up but damn I miss the Khorns and I cant stop thinking about them with a Class A Accuphase amp.Thanks Maximus89, I hadn’t considered vintage class A amps. I appreciate your suggestion.
Regards
NNW33
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Get an affordable late 80s to 90s era Class A amp from Accuphase directly from Japan. You can rewire them at the bottom for US 120v by color coded wires. Very easy
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That sounds like an easier solution especially if I decide on adding some bracing anyway if im up for the jobOn one of the CF4's the back was rattling when hit with heavy bass. I did not remove the backs, but i did pry them apart wide enough to get some clear gorilla glue down in the joint and then clamp it while the glue hardened. Also, I ran a fillet of Gorilla glue around the inside of each side with the back to help solidify things.
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Sorry, I got confused from the screws going inside to the back, since I figured the existing glue block was too small and the added block wouldn't sit flush with it? Idk I guess I gotta open it up and take a look when I get a chance. Thanks for giving me a better look though. Its always daunting opening up these massive speakers.
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Oh, understood. Makes sense. Im not skilled like that. So you put a block and glued and clamped to the small glue area that already exists and then you screwed it in from the side-into the existing glue area for extra support?
The panel basically sits on that tiny lip all the way around so I basically gave it a lot larger glue area along with being able to screw it down, I didn't have to leave it clamped for a day. The original glue area is not that much.
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21 hours ago, avguytx said:
I made a glue block all the way around the back side which was glued/screwed into place. Then, the back panel dropped in, was clamped in place, and also screwed in. Those biotches aren't ever coming out. Ha. All screw holes were pre-drilled before going in.
I just realized you added that glue block for the panel to sit into, is that really necessary? How does the panel sit in the cabinet originally?
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I have CF-3 version 1's in black that I am likely to sell here in Houston, TX($$$ undecided). I planned on keeping them with my Cf4s and kv4 for a 5.1 but hard times and things didn't go as I planned for my living situation.
The CF-3s sound just as great as the Cf4s with a slightly smaller scale, and id be happy with just them but the Cf4 v. 1 is so hard to find and I love the cherry, ill stick with the Cf4s unless I got an offer too good to pass on. They do need to be reglued in the rear and the woofer dust caps have glue residue from previous owner replacing them.
Anyway, the CF3 have been in storage in a garage for a year. One top had a spill or something where the black finish came off from previous owner- plus other bumps and bruises you see with speakers this age, so they're up for a refinish. Also no spiked feet and plastic foot covers.
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Perfect. Exactly what I needed. Thanks a lot man!
You'll have to knock them pretty good to get them to separate. Make sure you start in the area where they are the most loose and it helps to use a flat metal paint scraper and smack that into the seams, too. Once you get an area going, it just goes easier. I did my last pair of CFD-3's and also a pair of KLF-30's with the same issue.
Here's some inside pics. I made a glue block all the way around the back side which was glued/screwed into place. Then, the back panel dropped in, was clamped in place, and also screwed in. Those biotches aren't ever coming out. Ha. All screw holes were pre-drilled before going in.
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Does the back panel pop off with a rubber mallet? My CF4 back panels are loose and haven't had a chance to go in and reglue and brace. Easy job?Update on the CF4 upgrading. Been real busy the past week or so, finally got back to the CF4's. Got the cross brace added for the DH-1506 drivers for the tweeters. Also got the cabinets sanded down and stained. I will be starting the finish on them tonight.
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Passlab gets my vote.
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I had the Denafrips Ares II matched with my cf4 first with mcintosh and then with accupahse. I ended up selling to try an option board add on dac for my accuphase and I regretted it immediately. Same as most dacs I pair with klipsch. Just too harsh and bright. R2R dacs have this warm and analog sound that was addictive. I can only imagine the Pontus is a big jump from the Ares.I was trying to compare Cambridge Azur 851N vs denafrips Pontus I I
this is Pontus
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Those look great. Did you remove the vinyl first? My vinyl isn't peeling but the black is faded. I wonder if I can do the same over the vinyl?After evaluating all reasonable options, I have decided to paint the fronts of my CF4's with a flat black enamel. I will keep everyone update on the progress.
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Ive been away from my Cf-4 and Cf-3(both v.1) for almost 4 months now. Thinking when I get back to start a project and veneer them both plus the KV4 and redo the grill cloths. Cf3s are black and my cf4s are cherry.
Would it be blasphemous to redo the black pair into cherry or the cherry into black?
Also as far as the kv4...do I remove the vinyl first? How would I go about doing that?
Im currently considering just refinishing the black CF3 and veneer the cherry cf4 in black ash. My RSW15 is black too so figure it would be easiest and any future sub will likely be black also
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I wonder if Chief thinks its boneheaded and non Klipsch if you mod with other Klipsch parts: ie using a pro Klipsch horn to replace the stock horn. I never saw him have a problem with recommending non Klipsch full range compression drivers for the Jubilee either-although i never read directly from him-but others saying Roy suggested it-
I was considering k510 + compression driver+ active xover mod for the cf4.
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Gotcha. What preamp and amp were they on? I can see that factoring in as well. I think the CF4s are the pickiest of Klipsch speakers to match with gear. They also absolutely need the horn to be damped. Its very thin. Worst part of the speaker. Raising them or tilting the horn to ears is ideal for placement as well. I have a slight toe in with the speakers raised at an angle toward my ear height.I really don't know but I do remember him saying they were 'the better ones'. Whatever that means.....something about the port length?
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I use Accuphase and previously McIntosh. I can see a pimped out KLF30 being great though. Wish there were more options for a Chorus II to be modded as well. Id like to have CF4 + a 3 way traditional Klipsch, although I'm desperately missing Klipschorns right now. I have CF4 and CF3 version 1 in both and id probably pull the trigger on selling the CF4 to get Khorns again and keep the CF3s.
Of course things don't ever go as planned and I may have to downsize to bookshelf or Heresys altogether some time soon. I originally sold the Khorns to downsize to more manageable speaker which was my Chorus II I already had, then came the CF3 and It was better than the Chorus II. Then came the CF4.
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Which CF4? Revision 1,2 or 3?You got that right, but.....
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Day 212 of 1995. Version 3 off the top of my headThis serial number is likely to be version 2 right 212596971?
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KV4 is the matching timbre center but im personally looking around for bigger and better centers. The timbre match doesn't do much for me unless its 3 front speakers all the same- thats where its most effective and amazing experience.
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Yeah i'm sure it's just in my head. I overthink things. Speakers are built with an tilt all the time. What we also know, is the Legendary series of Klipsch speakers of the era that followed had a notorious issue with factory glue and baffles being loose. I still believe the likely cause was a previous owner possibly using them as full range for movies and really loud bass heavy music=loose dust caps he had to reglue and loose rubber surround he had to reglue and loose baffles he likely overlooked.
I'll add bracing to the cabinets when i get a chance and replace the cheap foam with some wads of poly fil.-
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Stereo to subwoofer amp connection
in Subwoofers
Posted
That makes sense.
this is what im looking at
except the DAC option board is newer with usb which i use with my PC as a transport.
D Output is Subwoofer. Both Balanced and Unbalanced outputs. I have 5.1 analog outs to the Line 1 Inputs of a multichannel analog HDMI DAC. Subwoofer gets the LFE signal using the Line 1. While it's not bad for music and i can use the sub with it, the DSD DAC board with USB is of higher quality for 2ch music, but the sub won't work for it even with DSP sub add ons in my foobar2000 settings.