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Droogne

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Everything posted by Droogne

  1. I'm probably gonna be using balanced inputs too. Or maybe both.
  2. Any advantages in the pro LaScala? Better power handling? Cause I have been looking at the specs and it says the LaScala can only put out 121db, while this would only require 35 watt. What would be a comfortable power input for each LaScala for a period of 8-9 hours without risk of damaging the drivers? Maybe more relevant question, what it be for each driver (they all have separate amplification). Normally that is around 25% of their RMS right
  3. I'm probably also buying another horn sub. 1000W RMS with 105db sensitivity. If I'd put them against the stage wall I'd achieve a theoretical 110db @ 60 feet when using them @ 25% of their RMS. (again, our db max is 100..) By stacking the bassbins of the LaScala I'm coupling them and I should get an even better sensitivity. The woofers I'm using also have a better sensitivty (98) and power handling (300W RMS) so I'm guessing I should be ok. Definitely if I cross them @100 hz.
  4. Love the text! REALLY helpfull! Do you know how to adjust the sizes when using 1"?
  5. We used some (2 on each side) Mackies sa1532z last year, but we were blown away by how bad they sounded... Which is why are looking into other sources for music. The mackies were free though.. also complete overkill as we have sound regulations. For now i think my triple LaScala tower will work for the place and regulations we have, unless someone tells me otherwise. Willl have to make some kind of special box to put the tweeters and squawkers in, but that is not a real problem.
  6. I took a look at our photos from last year, and youre correct! Not 1 meter haha! Probably 1,5. Still, it could be better. We know. We built the stage completely by ourself (using wooden pallets which we had to place level on an angled hill.. Took us a week.) Next year that is gonna be professional so it'll be a lot safer. Included a few pics for reference. One of the pictures is from our little stages, which is probably only 3 feet high...
  7. Subs will be as big and bad as they need to be (we can rent those). The stage will be 1 meter high and the bass bins would be stacked and the mid/high range horns placed in a semi-ark, and angled down towards the crowd, on top of the stack (another 1,8 meter). The event is pretty big as it would be outdoors... Crowd would be placed no further than 15-20 meters from the stage. Local regulations dictate is to not go over the maximum of 100db (or even lower, not sure). 6 LaScalas on half power (50watt)would still be able to achieve an 105db spl @ 60 feet. My LaScalas use a more efficient woofer so that number is probably higher.
  8. For how many people was that installation? I'm having 6 build and was maybe interested in using them for our neighborhood festival.
  9. I will be using 1" multiplex and extra bracing in the horn mouth.
  10. Hey I have a wood working youth project who are interested in buying the LaScala for me, and I did find good plans. Some better ones could never hurt! Thanks!
  11. How well suited are they for this? How realistic is it to provide sound for a 1000-1500 man festival with LaScalas? How many would I need ?
  12. I'm building 5 (maybe even 7) LaScalas at the moment, which will be used for home theatre. I already have the parts for the first 2 (original K77 and k55M. PH2380 Horn for the k55 and EV 15B woofer. Active crossovers.) I was wondering how big a party 5-7 LaScalas would be able to carry (outdoors for dance music). I have a pretty big 18" hornloaded sub (1000W RMS, 105db/spl, 35-300hz) and might build another like this one. I heard someone mention that 1 topbin could be supported by 2 bassbins for PA use due to sensitivity mismatch) Greetings
  13. Hey Does anyone know if there are European based cinema's/resailers who sell the K-402 or jubilees?
  14. Or what about using a passive subwoofer that could reach to 500hz? With the correct EQ I could get them flat and SPL matched to the mid/high of the LaScala. For example the Behringer Eurocom CL212S, it costs about the same as the LaScala bass bin and is only 1 foot 4".
  15. They do look like some awesome bins! Problem is they are waaaay to deep, 115cm (44,75 inch). My couch would be at an ideal 7-8 feet distance from the tv, so this bin would be to close I think. It would also protrude pretty hard into the living room.. Maybe a some similar designs that are wider bbut have less depth?
  16. Or could a custom heresy with double 12" woofers work too? It might bring the sensitivity closer to the LaScalas.
  17. I recently started with a huge LaScala home-theatre build, and with I had the idea to make a custom center speaker. The LaScala is beautiful speaker, but also pretty high... The TV would sit too high for my liking, which made me wondering. How would I be able to lower this? This lead me to a thread which proposed a LaScala center which uses the mid and high range horns and drivers, and the exact same cabinets. Instead of 1 bassbin they would use 2, one one each side. This would of course solve my problem as it would put the tv one foot lower. I will be able to test this in a few weeks, which I will ofcourse do. Problem is that I would want to order all the bass bins in one big order, as my carpenter would give me a huge discount. So I though ask you guys! Would this work? Or is there no telling? Could I fix the problem of directivity by maybe toeing in the 2 bass bins? Crossovers would be active. Other option I though off was a custom made, adapted CornScala with the drivers outside the cabinet, and the bass cabinet on it's side. This would be a half a foot higher though.. If you have other suggestions I would love to hear them!
  18. That is quite true I respect that sentiment. Maybe I'll try that one day!
  19. Faital pro them self recommend the HF206 for hifi use. It uses a different diaphragm. Did you ever do testing (or known someone who has) between the 200 and 20AT? EDIT: Bob Crites discredits this statement. He wouldnt pick the HF206 for this kind of setup.
  20. Hey, I know a lot of people have already asked you, but if you have some detailed building plans (that you could give to a carpenter for example) I would be very interested in them. Wouldnt mind paying a bit to have them drawn up or something. But in any case, beautiful build!
  21. What would be a good substitute in an active 3-way LaScala with a PH2380 horn instead of a K400. Having troubles finding K55 drivers in Europe (US located K55 are extremely expensive to import..). Bob crites recommended a Faital HF-140 on a Faital LTH142 horn for a 2-way LaScala. Would I be able to use the HF-140 driver on the PH2380 horn for the 3-way too? It's an expensive driver, but still cheaper than importing the K55.
  22. Hmm.. that does seem pretty condemning.. I did buy the dcx2496 yesterday as the seller only sold it for few hours.. It was a very good price so I couldnt just let it go. That aside, I see what problems you raise and I hear you. It just seems although it has it is quality problems it's a very solid EQ for what I'm wanting to do. It might backfire on me. If it does, if I explicitly hear what problems are raised in the linked post, I'll know it's from the crossover, and hurry up in my upgrade to a Xilica. Cause, although I did buy this xover I'm not planning on staying with it. Finding a Xilica will be my first upgrade (but a true Xilica, not the Sabine for which I still cant find any reliable software download). It just fits better with my initial budget (when I was hoping on a cheap samson S-3-way), and I'm pretty sure I can repurpose this crossover OR sell it for the same price as I bought it. I bought it second hand, but it looks spanking new and they are going out of market I've heard which can't hurt their second hand price. For now I'll just enjoy what I have, use the saved money somewhere else vital in my build and try to counter as much of the problems the DCX has (without having to really mod the DCX). Sorry not to take your advice! I still value it very much, I just jumped to quickly on this cheaper model :s
  23. The UMIK it is! Would never have noticed its value by reading its specs
  24. Ok thanks! I have asked the big local audio store for advice. If they cant reliably recommend a cheaper but effective alternative I'll just buy the UMIK. 100euro is still very doable, particulary if I can know for sure it does what I need it to do.
  25. Not even as a start up model? If I dont like it I can use it as a subwoofer EQ.
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