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DizRotus

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Posts posted by DizRotus

  1. "I dont think klipsch Licenced the Patrician 800 with its 30" bass driverwhich is not even horn loaded, but the other Ev Patrician was a khorn the Klipsch liscenced."

    I believe you're correct. I didn't know there was a non-Klipschorn Patrician. I incorrectly assumed the seller was mistaken about the 30" woofer.

    The PWK anecdote is true.

  2. Two interesting vintage speakers. As Khorn51 points out below, only the Brociner is a licensed version of a Klipschorn.

    EV Patrician

    http://cgi.ebay.com/electro-voice-patrician-model-800-speaker-/230611848573?_trksid=p3286.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8739834018862326846

    Brociner-Lowther

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Brociner-Lowther-PM3-Klipschorn-Klipsch-50s-corner-horn-/220772536527?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item33671190cf

    PWK once asked me, " Do you know what a Patrician is?" Before I could reply about the EV Patrician, he said, "A patrician is someone who steps out of the shower to take a leak."

  3. thanks, i heard the CT125 is the same as the APT150.

    can i use the APT150? it's a whole lot cheaper.

    Bob Crites went to considerable expense to have horns fabricated that replicate the horns used on the K-77 (EV T35) and that attach easily to the APT150 driver. That makes the CT125 a drop-in replacement physically and visually. It's my understanding that the driver of the APT150 is the same as that in the CT125. If that's correct, and, if you aren't looking for a "drop in," you can use the CT150.

    I tried the CT125 in Heresy speakers. I purchased the CT125s from a forum member who preferred the K-77. I felt the difference in the Heresy was subtle. The speakers were eventually sold to another forum member.

    The benefit of the CT125 is probably best realized when combined with a lower (4,500 hz) crossover point. Bob feels the K-55 benefits from the lower crossover, but the K-77 can't be crossed over at that frequency.

  4. My son, Scott, wants to sell his 2009 VW Rabbit/Golf that he purchased while stationed in Germany. He's currently living in Arlington, VA attending GW, courtesy of USA in exchange for time in Afghanistan.

    It's a black 5 speed 5 cylinder 2 door hatchback with approx 29K. Any suggestions on selling such a car? He wants to sell it quickly to Car Fax or a dealer. The expenses of ownership are not justified given his current student status.

  5. "Am I correct in assuming that if the tweeter works, the fuse should be good?"

    I believe that to to be the case. The HF fuse seems to protect everything but the woofer. The AK-3 schematic above was cadged from another thread, so I can't vouch for its accuracy. It seems to show a 2.5 amp fuse for the woofer and a 1.25 amp for the squawker and tweeter. I believe the tweeter is incorrectly also labled "squawker."

    In the days of tube amps, Klipsch didn't feel the need for fuse protection. As cheap solid state high watt amps became the norm, PWK decided to fuse his speakers to protect them from the "stoves" (high watt amps).

    It's my theory that the fuses were put on the woofer access door to be deliberately difficult to check and replace. PWK probably added the fuses to document "excessive" power as much as to protect the drivers. Those patches inside cell phones that turn pink to show "excessive" moisture are analogous. It would've been much easier to put the fuses on the outside, where they are more easily accesssible, if they were intended to be checked and replaced by the user.

  6. To many, the music is more important than the delivery system. A superb system won't make inferior music and/or an inferior recording more enjoyable. Conversely, an excellent recording of excellent music is still enjoyable when played on a clock radio, or even a Bose music machine. Sure it's better on an excellent system, but the diminishing return factor is tremendous.

    I like to amaze friends with the sound from my DIY single driver (Radio Shack 40-1197) rear horns powered by a mildly modified Dynaco SCA-35 using a Toshiba DVD player. They routinely remark at how much better it sounds than their large expensive systems. One friend likens it to turning water into wine. The whole system cost me less. than $300. One of the enclosures is in the attached photo, but the RS 40-1197 driver is not yet installed.

    Are they even more impressed by Cornwalls or La Scalas? Sure they are, but not enough to justify (to them) the difference in cost, size and low WAF (which is not to suggest that my DIY single drivers have any WAF). Many people would rather spend their money going to concerts or buying music. It doesn't make sense to them to spend many thousands more on the hardware than on the music to be played.

  7. You previously indicated that all drivers work, except one squawker driver. Nonetheless, after you've confirmed that all fuses are intact, contact Bob Crites (BEC on this forum) at http://www.critesspeakers.com/. Bob can review your threads and be able to give you informed answers. Bob has forgotten more than most on this forum know, or will ever know.

    You appear to have AK-3 networks. Even in the unlikely event that a blown fuse prevents only the squawker from operating, Bob can advise you regarding refreshing/updating 17 year-old networks.

    You can find much more information using the forum's search function, but some pertinent threads are identified below:

    Crossover Experimenting ALKs, Type Bs and AK3s

    http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/56743.aspx?PageIndex=2

    AK-3 Crossover

    http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/16249/127484.aspx#127484

    AK-3 Klipschorn fuse question

    http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/77722/769092.aspx#769092

    AK-3 network mod

    http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/58797/573681.aspx#573681

  8. As you can tell, Noah is also assuming that the driver leads are attached to the balancing networks (aka crossovers) by screw terminals. The photo in your other thread shows an AK network. I've got no personal experience with that network, but my guess is the answer to your question is yes.

    I recommend contacting Bob Crites (BEC on this forum) at http://www.critesspeakers.com/. Bob can review the threads and be able to give you informed answers.

  9. Thanks DizRotus and Peter. All the connections seem fine...nothing is loose. Everything is sauterized (spelling?), even where the wires connect to the driver...is this normal? And, since everything is welded together, where is the appropriate place to unhook the wires from the driver so I can swap them?

    If you're saying that all connections at the balancing network are soldered, that's not normal. It would also probably be the source of the bad connection that is preventing continuity.

    Could you take a picture of the newtork? The attached photo shows a network that is similar. but not identical. to yours. Note the vast majority of the connections are mechanical (screwed not soldered). The same should be true on yours. You should be able to locate the mid (squawker) leads on the barrier strip and disconnect them to place a battery between the leads to do the scratch test. Prior to disconnecting any of the wires label them with tape and take photos so you can return the wires to the appropriate locations.

    Good luck!

  10. Thanks Dave. How do I do that? Use any old speaker wire and connect +/- to each side of the driver?

    Also, to add to the thread, I tried an ohm meter, and I get readings that I am not confident in...I can consistently get 0.3 ohms sometimes on both the good and bad driver, which I know isn't right.

    If the leads are soldered then readings from a DVM, ohm meter, etc. will be all but useless as there will be continuity through the balancing networks and/or the drivers.

    As an alternative to using a boom box, get a piece of wire and connect it to one end of a AA or AAA battery. While touching the other end of the battery to one driver terminal, scratch the end of the wire connected to the battery across the other terminal. Again, polarity is irrelevant at this point. If the voice coil is intact you will hear a scratching sound from the driver.

    • Double check all of the connections at the networks;
    • test the dead driver with a AA battery. When you bridge the terminals with the battery in line, you should hear scratching from the driver; or
    • swap the mid drivers between the speakers to see if the problem follows the driver.

    I'd be surprised if the driver is bad (much more likely if it were one of the tweeters). It's more likely a bad connection at the network.

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