Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community

51coronet

Regulars
  • Content Count

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About 51coronet

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Update got these working today after I ordered some replacement caps and those fuse/lamp things. Very loud speakers and not much in the low end! the new titanium diaphragms haven't been broken in yet on the tweeters. So far so good. I replaced all the caps and noticed one of the caps that should have been 4 micro was a 3.....weird. Bad QC I assume. I put lamp fuses in to assist in saving tweeters in the future in case a bozo mishandles them. Edit: It was one of the 2.5 micro caps that was a 3 micro. In fact its the one pictured above. You can see the 2 caps side by side and one looks out of place. No idea if that was factory or end user but have them all corrected now.
  2. 51coronet

    Car Thread

    I fixed up this 1958 Imperial LeBaron and sold it to a museum in Florida. Dezer museum. Fairly rare car, all stock and everything worked when sold. The hubcaps were removed by me just in case someone wanted them while it was parked outside. They were the rare 58 lebaron version. Currently working on a 2 door hardtop with the all the options except power windows.
  3. Thank you Ljk. that helps much appreciated!
  4. I believe its a poly switch circuit breaker after doing some homework. Obviously it didn't work to save itself or the tweeters. What are peoples thoughts of the lamp type fuses? I ordered some to put in place of these poly switches. I would rather replace a 2 or 3 dollar part versus $35 per diaphragm. The flip side these will mostly be used in home or garage and not get driven hard much. seldom event use less than 2 per year is a possibility. Also a schematic for these if one is available would be awesome. These crossovers do not match the first gen kp250 fyi.
  5. Both crossovers are in the same condition visually. That little component is smoke checked on both. Did some tracing out of these. The woofers are completely independent on the crossover using only an inductor and 33 microfarad cap. They are tied into the + and - on the binding posts which are currently wired in parallel , looks like they left it up to the end user for a bi-amp option of the woofer or all drivers via inputs on the back of the speaker? The tweeter has 2 of the 2.5 microfarad caps in series and an inductor branched off like the schematic on these forums and a 25 w 200 ohm resistor plus a diode. No idea what the spec is on the diode of my crossover (its blown and black if its even a diode). There are still a 6 micro and 4 micro cap some inductors and transformer that tie into the mids. This one is a bit tougher to trace out on this board. The plan is now to replace the caps and "diode" provided these are correct values. The boards haven't been tinkered with from what I can tell. Just weird the values don't match the schematic on these forums. is that a circuit breaker? What are the specs? It obviously didn't stand up to whatever the previous owner did.
  6. I have KP-250 II , the crossover has a stamp that says KP-2.5D This crossover does not match the schematic posted here on the forums for a KP250. The caps have different values and its not exactly easy to trace the way things are connected on this style circuit board so I am having difficulty trying to determine if the crossover is even connected the same way with different values. Anyone have a schematic for this version of crossover? When I got the speakers the tweeters were blown. I replaced one, hooked it up and there is still a problem, the speaker cuts in and out from a muffled sound to a projected sound intermittently. There is also a blown/burnt component on the board Labeled CB1 on the board. Its the smallest component on the board, may be a diode? All 3 drivers now make sound but its still not correct as per above explanation.
  7. I picked up a set of KP250. Hooked them up and noticed they were much louder than my la scalas hmmm. Turns out both tweeters are blown. What is a replacement diaphragm for the tweeters? Is this correct https://www.ebay.com/itm/Klipsch-Factory-Speaker-Repair-Diaphragm-Titanium-K-79-K-100Ti-D-K100Ti/111975849301?hash=item1a1247dd55:g:Gz8AAOSwBLlVZQHQ I'm fine going to titanium if it is a correct replacement. Nothing I find references the k792 tweeter. Thanks
  8. yes inside the speaker. These are refered to as passive crossovers. They are set it and forget it type. There is another type called active crossovers that are usually external, plug in, and have ways to adjust crossover points such as dials. Most likely some solder work will be in order if you go this route. You may also be able to find a good used or new crossover for that speaker online. Ebay, Amazon etc may have a new replacement that is more along the lines of plug and play or minimal solder work. One other thing you may want to try is a different channel on your amp just to be sure its isolated to the speaker itself. Use the other speakers wires to be sure the problem follows the speaker. Do the easy stuff first as a rule in order to isolate the problem.
  9. Interesting!! I do have it on. I stream a lot from youtube. YPAO on brings more of the music into the room versus inside the speakers at low volumes. I will play with it more when low volume listening is on the agenda. I will add that all of the music sounds much better with the setting on, warmer richer, fuller. Thanks for pointing it out. This receiver is new to me and has lots of bells/whistles I am still learning about. So far I like it. Remote takes getting used to (very cluttered).
  10. I have a pair of vintage La Scalas hooked up to a Yamaha rx-v683. If I go from playing music loud to wanting a mellow sound in the house I end up lowering the volume multiple times. Its as if the loudness crawls back up a bit after a few minutes of lowering the volume. Is this my ears adjusting? Inherent with La Scalas? Inherent with the amp? I did have other speakers hooked up to the amp and never noticed this before until the la scalas were hooked up. All crossover caps have been replaced on both la scalas fyi. I got these used recently and replaced the caps before hooking them up. Has anyone else noticed this with their system?
  11. Crossover capacitor is my guess. I doubt very much that dimple will cause a measureable amount of distortion that your ears can hear. With a little bit of know how you can pull the crossover out and measure the caps with a meter that has the function on it. Cheap internal Electronics from china is what you are dealing with..... Depending on how many are in there it may be worth just replacing them all with better quality audio caps. Depending on the uF rating (microfarad) the price changes. They are pretty cheap and easy to replace on most crossovers. This is where I would start, provided everything inside looks good like tightness, wires, connections, etc. You are also describing distortion at higher frequency which would be handled by the smaller tweater not the woofer you have pictured. Hope this helps get it fixed.
  12. Yes I will take some better photos after the other mods are completed. (glass and corners) I did set the wheels and old k77 tweeters aside for future use with a bag of misc new capacitors I bought. I am having a hard time finding 13uF caps. I bought a 12 and a 1 to wire in parallel (not sure if this is the best method) . My tester says the 13 is good and reads 13uF but I know they are likely as old as the speakers. I replaced both sets of the 2uF caps and removed the diodes (based on reading the ct120 don't need them). It was a fun project bringing these back to life and would like to tackle another set at some point. Who sells 13uF caps? I am not interested in those super high dollar caps. Maybe $20 ballpark for a 13uF, I personally don't feel the need for myself to get really high dollar caps. I'm just not at that audiophile stage yet and may never be.
  13. The unique look is definitely a plus. My taste is more unique, no tri year chevy here with a 350/T350.... Im partial to H1 hummer, 57-58 imperial, 1960 300F. Good sound without dropping a ton of money was the goal and I achieved that plus a neat looking talking piece. My mom says they are classy!
  14. Indeed but it was worth it! The glass and brass corners will add a bit more. Birch is fairly light weight, I removed the wheels so it kinda offset the added weight of the birch. These are some awesome speakers. A bit on the large side but well worth it in the end for any music lover. I am now thinking about another pair for the heck of it. Anyone have a beat up pair in Southern California for sale? They will get a good home!
×
×
  • Create New...