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Dombo

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  1. Subwoofers come with amps and some are 525 watts (the SV Sub I'm looking at) and the Klipsch are like 2400 watts (RSW). What does that mean. Could someone tell me why a higher number of watts is better or worse? I am interested in an SV PC+, it has a 525 watt BASH amp. Am I lossing something by not going with a higher amp? I don't fully understand how subs handle power so any input would be great. Thanks
  2. I am trying to decide on a subwoofer and I think I have narrowed it down to Klipsch RSW series or a SV Subwoofer. Each use a BASH amp so I guess that is good, but price can vary quite a bit (Klipsch being more expensive) For those of you who have SVS subwoofers: Can you give some reasons why I would go with SVS over Klipsch. and For those of you who have Klipsch subwoofers: Can you give me reasons to stay with Klipsch. I am racking my brain and need some pointers, Thanks
  3. I am trying to decide on a subwoofer and I think I have narrowed it down to Klipsch RSW series or a SV Subwoofer. Each use a BASH amp so I guess that is good, but price can vary quite a bit (Klipsch being more expensive) For those of you who have SVS subwoofers: Can you give some reasons why I would go with SVS over Klipsch. and For those of you who have Klipsch subwoofers: Can you give me reasons to stay with Klipsch. I am racking my brain and need some pointers, Thanks
  4. So the RC-7 has two drivers: one that plays high frequencies and one that plays lows. I gather this from Klipsch's specs: "The RC-7 center channel features Klipschs version of 2.5-way crossover technology, called tapered-array. With tapered-array, the two Cerametallic woofers work together to deliver high impact bass with one driver transitioning out at the mid-range frequencies. This provides more consistent coverage across the listening field, less tonal error and improved dialogue intelligibility." "HIGH FREQUENCY CROSSOVER: 550Hz and 1950Hz " Can someone spoon feed what this means to me? So, when I hear the speaker working the left cone will be playing low Hz and the right will be playing High Hz. I hope this is correct because when I move my ear from the left woofer to the right woofer, I can hear "more" from the right woofer. I only hear low tones from the left woofer. Just making sure everyrthing is working properly, so if anyone has the same effect please let me know.
  5. I wanted to test out a biwire and see what all the hype was about, so I got the MCX-1s instead of the MCX-2s center. I think Z1 is not as good because monster has them listed in increasing quality from what I could tell(left to right)
  6. I just bought my RC-7 and the MCX-1s Bi-wire center channel cable (The one for $50). It works and sounds great! All you do is screw on the connecting pins you want and you are set. So, that one is a go. However, I also bought the MCX-2s main speaker cable (they don't make a bi-wire for MCX-2s) instead of the MCX-1s Bi-wire. The MCX-2s are $10 cheaper but I was sold on them because they have different wire gauges for high and low frequency (Wider wire for lows, thinner wire for highs)and the salesman said this was a better proven method than bi-wiring and I would easily notice better detail and bass response. Plus I wouldn't have to buy four more pins. But, if your going to spend all that money already, who cares about 30 dollars more. You'll be happy with either one.
  7. Hey Everyone, I have a question but first I would like to set it up a little. I was listening to a CD, "Beastie Boys, License to Ill" and in the intro to Brass Monkey I can hear some backround noise (first 15 seconds), like bass imperfections. Sounds kinda like crackling I guess. I first thought it could be the recording quality, then I thought it might be something wrong with the speaker. So I took the CD and played it in my roommates Awia stereo, and I couldn't hear the imperfections as clear as before, almost like they weren't there. SO now its got me thinking there could be a problem with my drivers. Here's the question: Is it accurate to say that a better system (I have a Denon 3802 and KLF 30's) will reproduce the CD with more accurate detail allowing these noises/quality to become more noticable than a low end stereo? And how would I know if there is a problem with a speaker. I am pretty cautious with how loud I go with them, but if a driver were broken would it be obvious? Cloud someone with half a brain tell if there was a blown woofer (would I be able to tell very easily if a speaker was not 100%)? One more question, what exactly breaks when a driver fails, do horns break before drivers and does a driver either work completly or not at all? I guess I have a lot of questions, but any input or personal experiences would be appreciated. I'm pretty protective of my klipsch and don't want them hurt. If anyone has that CD test it out and tell me what they think or tell me to go see a mental doctor,lol whatever. Thanks
  8. Was it the MCX-1s Bi-Wire for $50? And if so, where did you get it, online or dealer? Thanks
  9. Which Monster Cable did you use? Do you know if it was any on their site?
  10. Hi Everyone, I just bought an RC-7 and wanted to know how you guys have hooked up yours. What cable did you use? I know that Klipsch uses Z series to internally wire the center, but which cable from monster would best match it? Can I buy the exact same cable from Monster to use? I saw one for like forty bucks on the Monster site, but not sure it that is the way to go. Has anyone bi-wired their center and recommend doing so... Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Proud owner of a brand new maple RC-7!
  11. I watched the Sound and Vision Tune-Up DVD and they had a graphic that lowered and rasied the surround speakers. I want to know if the surround speakers are supposed to be 3 feet higher than my ears. And if they are higher than my head, then when I measure for the channel delay, do I measure diagonally from the listening position to the speaker (like in a cross-section) or horizontally to a spot on the wall beneath the speaker (like on a floor plan). Just curious cause that could add a foot or two. For a center channel: if my tv is not centered between my mains, does the center go directly on top of the tv or still in between the mains. Right now it is right above the tv, which I think is right. Thanks in advance.
  12. I have a Denon 3802 and KLF 30's. I measured and set the delay time as 11 feet for the mains, and 4 feet for the surrounds. Then I put a little table on top of the "sweet spot" to a point level with my head. Then I put the SPL meter on top of the table with the mircophone pointing up at the ceiling. On the reciever I went to channel levels and chose manual-start test, then turned the volume down. With the SPL meter at 70 dB i slowly turned the reciver volume upwards to -10. Then I adjusted the left channel level until the SPL said 75dB, took +2dB. Then went to the right channel, up +3db. Back right, +5dB. Back left +6. Now I know that at -10 volume, all my channels are at 75dB at the listening position according to the SPL meter and the denon test tone. I think that I have done this properly, but if not someone let me know. I'm curious as to what volume levels other people have set their recievers to, because even though I used -10 as my reference volume, I can't watch Terminator 2 at that high of a volume, it's way higher than 75dB. Not sure what concept I am missing that relates my -10 Volume level to the 75dB on the SPL meter. hope this helps and did not confuse you
  13. Here, this more of a technical question, I guess. I have a pair of KLF- 30's and a Denon 3802 receiver. Is it safe to go pass 0 on the volume? It goes from -70 to +18. I have turned it up pretty loud and don't hear clipping (absent chucks of sound, right?) But I don't want to do something stupid. Also, I believe that that the KLF-30's can handle 200 watts (continuously) and the denon only puts out 110. What does that really mean? I just want to know if I am pushing my luck or are the 30's pretty durable and powerful? Thanks a ton for you rhelp and saftey precautions.
  14. I have a pair of KLF-30's and a Denon 3802 receiver. Is it safe to go pass 0 on the volume? It goes from -70 to +18. I have turned it up pretty loud and don't hear clipping (absent chucks of sound, right?) But I don't want to do something stupid. Also, I believe that that the KLF-30's can handle 200 watts (continuously) and the denon only puts out 110. What does that really mean? Thanks a ton for you rhelp and saftey precautions.
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