glens
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Posts posted by glens
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As you'll recall, gas was about $0.70/gal. and minimum wage was a tad over $2; 4311s were a bit out of my price range at the time. I saw/heard the big Klipschs over in Milwaukee at Flanner & Hafsoos (sp.?). Just sounded weird to me.
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11 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
You don't remember hearing Klipsch speakers in the late 70's? That's what started me on my Klipsch journey. They sounded pretty darn good from what I remember.
10 hours ago, Deang said:I do. Carlin Audio in Dayton Ohio with Crown stuff. Gawd auwful. So I bought a pair of Dahlquist DQ-10s.
Same time (late '70s), same notion, but I was more a fan of the JBL pro stuff.
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And worst case if there's a glaring operational mismatch, there are likely replacement diaphragms available with a closer match to each other.
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1 hour ago, YK Thom said:
I'd recommend the 24' to get the tweeters up to ear level.
Haha! Ear level on the second floor with the speaker stands in the basement?
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42 minutes ago, Islander said:
Right-hand-drive cars have their pedals in the usual orientation, but the shifter is on the centre console, which is to the driver's left, of course. What can be disorienting at first is having to look up to the left to see the rear view mirror.
Thank you for that. I'd rather wondered if for safety reasons the accelerator would be toward the inside of the car or something.
I'd assume motorcycles are "correct."
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7 hours ago, Marvel said:
Mine [JBL 4311] are in great shape... as far as the cabinets go. I had the original shipping boxes for a good 25 years, so whenever I moved they were well protected and I transported the audio equipment myself and didn't let friends or movers touch them.
I've got a pair of 4301s from at least 1979 stored away in their original boxes. There was no foam surrounding the woofer cones last time I looked years ago. I don't recall what the situation was with the tweeters but I can only image what they're like now. It's been at least a dozen years since I've seen them. I really love their (JBL) driver construction from that era. The woofers have alnico magnets inside an assembly which offers magnetic leakage only at the voice coil gaps. Paper clips slide ride off the back of the driver but a handful tossed at the cone cling to the inverted dust cap in a circle. And the rectangular cross-section voice coil wire was wound on edge; they really knew how to build 'em.
When I got them I already had a pair of the "home" version (L16?) which had the same drivers but the woofer was allowed to roll off naturally up top instead of having LC components, and the cabinets had slightly different proportions but otherwise constructed the same. The "home" model had a more pronounced midrange presence, and I preferred the sound of the 4301s, though together they all sounded great. The cabinets were particle board beautifully veneered on both models with t-nuts for the woofers. One Saturday after a party at a friend's house I was standing there talking to his mom with a speaker on my shoulder when it slipped off behind me, fell most of 6 feet to the floor, bounced a bit, and the only damage was one of the plastic grill-mounting posts broke. They were quite heavy for their size.
If my 4301s were operable I'd love to have them in service somewhere. Perhaps I'll hunt down some replacement surround kits...
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Nobody's mentioning NAD, is there a reason? If I was shopping for an AVR it'd be the first brand I'd look at. None of the other brands mentioned would even be considered...
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What's wrong with the Powergate you've got?
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I've got to say that my current system has Hypex-origined power (UcD 180 boards) and I concur with what has been stated. The sound quality is as good or better than anything I've ever owned (next best would be late '70s HK "twin powered" gear). And that guitar amps are best tubed. Tubes are more graceful when over-driven and are especially rich in harmonic content which especially suits the unnatural coloration/production of sounds so prized by electric guitar players.
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I discovered ~50 years ago that a small dollop of solder on the material that's to be soldered gives the best indication of when that material has come up to sufficient temperature to flow solder throughout the joint. You definitely don't want to heat it less than necessary, but you definitely don't want to heat more than necessary either.
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1 hour ago, jvs1670 said:
Tin the wire? I've never heard of that before.
Ah, youth!
Twist the bare wire up nicely, hold a little solder to the iron and drop a small glop onto the wire, then hold the iron to the wire and when the glop starts to melt again, feed some more solder to the wire until it's thoroughly enveloped in solder.
When you're young you can more readily get by with bare twisted wire, but as you age and individual (loose) strands become less evident, well, it's always better to contain them anyway...
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I always get a kick out of "air flow" being mentioned about loudspeakers. If the "flow" doesn't net zero, something's amiss.
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6 minutes ago, ODS123 said:
Given Pauls natural reach advantage one wonders why Rudy didn't opt for a longer handle.
Yeah, a camp axe at least!
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I never quite made 6'2, just shy and getting shier. How tall was he in his prime?
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Looks like Paul favors Estwing; good, they've been my striking tool of choice for many decades. Since I've been a Hoosier (by choice) for several of those decades now, I guess great minds think alike!
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7 minutes ago, garyrc said:
And they drive on the wrong side of the street.
You know, I've always forgotten to look when having the rare chance. I'd like to think the clutch and gas pedals are at least "correctly" positioned on UK cars. Or are they swapped from normal, too? It'd be bad enough to have to remember which side to drive on, but it would be at least doable if the pedals were the same as ours.
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True enough, but you're going to tin (and form for screws) anyway, so...
Bare bare wires are for temp. emergency only.
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(And maybe they needed something new to write off.)
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I wonder whose boards they're using for the class D.
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21 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said:
It can be incremental, first LLC, then full C corp...............according to a podcast I just heard.
But not concurrent, right?
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If it's indeed the switch, likely you'll have to open the switch itself to clean it properly.
Here's a thought (for test purposes only): without equalization it'll not sound good, and without proper gain it'll be very quiet, but you could try plugging the phono cables into a tape monitor input and see if the channel imbalance is still present. Just don't forget to turn the volume back down afterwards!
I'm thinking with that vintage equipment I wouldn't rule out electronic components drifting apart (right-to-left) in the phono pre-amp section itself. By using a tape monitor input you can bypass both the phono stage and the input selector switch (the last, of course, depending how the tape monitor loop is implemented).
Good luck.
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6 hours ago, billybob said:
I say @glens, in keeping with this newfound spirit of the thread, would you consider a corporation viewed as a person to have fair access
to being or having an LLC. status as well? Some may have considered this, one would hope by competent legal minds, as being compared to having the protection to both sides of the coin(realm). A more fair analogy may be, in my estimation as, having your cake and eating it too. Please excuse the the's I used...thanks.
On that question I'd like to defer to anybody else on the forum as I'm hardly familiar with "LLC." For as much as I've given it any consideration at all (which is practically nil) I'd be surprised if it could be combined with incorporation - I'd guess it to be an either/or proposition.
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2 hours ago, DizRotus said:
The BBC were (Brits treat collective nouns as plural)...
I realize that (at least in "American" law?) a corporation is a "person", but if I were to toss a coin on "was" vs. "were" in this usage I believe the coin would land "were up" most times, and I've only got a couple percent "Britishness" in my makeup. It just seems more of a "committee" than an "entity" for things like that. Not that this is really (if at all) pertinent to the premise of the thread. Just doing my part to make it to 100 pages...
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What matters is when it's mated up and in motion. DCR in and of itself is more of a "go, no go" proposition IMO.
Would like to hear thoughts on Chromecast audio
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
And most times you can completely trust the request headers.