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glens

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  1. Luke Husqvarna vs. Stihl, or oak vs. hickory? Anyway, I thought I'd just throw that out there. I see little bundles of wood for several dollars each at the gas station. A few cords ought to net enough to buy some nice stereo gear! I've usually been fairly careful around loud things but even so, at bumping 60 years now I doubt I'd notice much detail above 15k.
  2. It might not be a fair call. I mean, everyone knows that as far as being "subjective" goes, it could take 30 hours of use for the filaments and whatnot to settle in after moving the equipment. Not to mention the time for interconnects and speaker wire to readjust, but that would be concurrent. Hahaha!
  3. An alternative plan would be to get a pre-EPA chainsaw, or drill out the muffler to let it breathe better, and cut up 10 or 12 cords of firewood without ear protection. That would be a great start to not missing anything above 15k.
  4. I never get so lucky with the layout. It seems invariably that the left speaker gets less side-wall reinforcement, and that's the side John Entwistle occupies...
  5. I'd think too small, but I don't know.
  6. In High School I'd got a pair of (rusty memory) L16s (8" / 1.5") and a couple years later 4301s. Same exact drivers and same exact high-pass crossover parts, though the cabinet dimensions differed and the pro model had 2nd-order crossover on the woofer. The "home" version ran the woofer sans crossover letting itself peter out at nominally the same 2500 Hz. It had a notable midrange "hump" the pro version "lacked." I'd at one time had the L16s at a friend's house for a "party" and the next day, while retrieving them, was standing there talking to his mom with one on my shoulder. It slipped backward and fell on the floor. The only damage was one of the plastic grille nipples broke off in its socket in the cabinet! Maybe a dent in the floor, I didn't check that out... I derided another (later) coworker's Heresys for the lack of bass... I've always held JBLs in the highest esteem. I cannot think of a reason why I decided about a year ago why I'd consider anything Klipsch, beyond better-controlled directivity for the nasty room I have to work with at this time. Rather glad I "jumped ship" now with my Forte IIIs! But I have to say, if I'd had to pay list (thank you Metropolis Lake Outfitters for a bangin' price on "B" stock [still can't determine why]) the current L100s would likely be singing now instead...
  7. Yeah? How are the grilles on those L100s?
  8. No offense intended, but no problem. Cut the cap leads 1/4" from the joint, bend them at half way back toward the joint, new leads get bent back towards the caps from there, interlocked, trim, fold and squeeze tight, solder. But then I'd most likely not have started the thread in the first place...
  9. Wire nuts? You can drop a huge blob of solder on the connections in less time if you've got a proper soldering gun! Tear it down for clean-looking replacements is something I'd do over a glass of whiskey if they sent the replacements first, with a postage-paid container for the returns. Otherwise, no, 10% in the future or not. But I'm happy everyone's happy with the results...
  10. I always get a chuckle out of seeing they picked "XConsole" as a name for their program, as if (obviously, I guess) they were unaware that's the name of an X (networked windows, for various Unix flavors) program from the '80s. I'm fairly certain I could still compile and run it.
  11. Should've known Mr. Bonehead wasn't really asking a question here, but rather making a point. Upon further testing, I noticed that lining up the tweeter with the horn diaphragm, while making a big improvement in sound, does cause reflections from the top of the cabinet that cause destructive interference at positions in front of the speaker. Further testing will show if there is a way to get the best of both worlds. I don't think padding or insulation will work. Maybe a structure of some sort... While I mentioned that in this thread before he did, I'm not claiming to posses as much knowledge / experience as he. That information should rightly be considered as so much "low-hanging fruit." Same for: Yes to this for sure. I feed my Xilica from a Presonus mixer. It is a balanced connection. The mixer is capable of putting out +24dBu. I still have the input channel gains up all the way (+15dB) on the Xilica. This gets the input meters to flicker occasionally but only at loud levels. ... If one doesn't make large use of the available bit-depth, they're really limiting themselves to the equivalent of lesser equipment. It'd be better to flirt with bouncing off the ceiling than playing mainly on the floor.
  12. This tangent should be okay now at this point in the thread: When measuring the ESR of "original" caps is it correct to assume a value higher than that of what can be found of various newly-made units is in fact telling us the originals are in need of replacement? In other words, just what was the original ESR value supposed to be?
  13. Dean, have you pondered the situation any further?
  14. Someone "on the line" didn't catch the misadjustment in a timely manner and they either didn't tell their immediate supervisor some (unknown quantity?) had too much glue, or they were told don't worry about it. It never got mentioned to anyone higher, or it actually did and the decision was taken to address the issue later if it ever came up. My prediction. If they were willing to send known-"proper" replacements beforehand, along with a pre-paid return shipping container, I'd take them up on it. It wouldn't hurt to request minor upgrade units, but I wouldn't hold my breath. If they want them back first I don't think I'd bother with it.
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