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Everything posted by glens

  1. My lips are sealed. You could take an interest in Chinese movies from the '70s which have overdubbed English! In all seriousness I feel for your dilemma. Does anybody have to market a standalone device which specifically deals with delaying one or the other content, I wonder? If not, it seems like it could be a worthwhile undertaking, financially speaking...
  2. I was going to mention this. Gregg Timbers is the go to on this. I researched this recently. He eventually went with charged coupled which he questioned at first, then used in the Everest ... I saw that, too. I still don't "get" it. Whatever "crossover" anomalies (reversal lag in electron flow?) might show up in a capacitor being chosen as appropriate for the task at hand would seem at first blush to actually still be present, perhaps even to a greater extent, in the presence of bias. Sans bias there (as envisioned) would be merely a window of dead time before current begins to flow in the opposite direction. That being with a quiescent period of electron flow through the dielectric. If there were supposedly a period of hysteresis where the electrons continued flowing in one direction, on momentum, after the push ceased at / during the direction change, causing (even further?) delay getting started the other direction, then why wouldn't that condition be worsened against a bias (and sped up with it the other way)? If the anomaly were problematic without a bias present, wouldn't it at least have symmetry? And with a bias, an asymmetry? Is an asymmetrical "crossover distortion" less objectionable than one symmetrical?
  3. Haha! Thanks. I'd not intended to imply I felt alone in that respect.
  4. I don't "follow" JBL's doings, and within the past year just caught wind of the bias thing. The little bit of research I did made it seem like it's primarily, if not solely, for the Japan market. And I understand those folks can be what amounts to the capstone of the audiophile "fluff" pyramid. So there's that... Also within that time I first learned of bypassing caps in a high-level crossover. In all my years of intermittently messing with this stuff it never occurred to me that anybody would even consider doing that. The signal that gets through a tiny-value cap at those impedance levels doesn't even begin to become meaningful until several times the upper frequency even a newborn human could possibly discern. Which is why I especially got a kick out of BEC's "offer" because he obviously understands that too. I don't care or mind if anybody wants to pursue such things as these two, I merely feel a duty to be a voice of reason once in a while when I see them being mentioned.
  5. Got any kind of an estimate as to how much time, and money, you'd saved had you remained content with that setup? Seriously.
  6. Oh, I also found this attachment to a post in one thread and feel it ought to be seen without having to wade through so much.
  7. Amen to the first part. They've gotten worse than Microsoft ever was when they were marginally relevant. The latest is the push for every site to go HTTPS as if it were for we the surfers' protection when in reality it's to maintain ad / profiling revenue by disabling filtering proxy usage. Of that I'm certain. Use duckduckgo instead of google. On that recommendation I just spent the weekend reading the results of searching "bypass caps" here ("bypass" by itself was much too vague). What a rush. It seems not much has changed in 15 years beyond capacitor flavor of the day. I found nothing backed up either way, re bypassing, with anything factual. Same goes for the tangent of biasing in the few places that notion also cropped up. I'll stick with them both being likely not harmful though totally unnecessary. My favorite bit was one BEC offering as reward a bag of dog biscuits for objective proof that bypassing (proper) does anything for a crossover! Near as I can tell he still has it available.
  8. Try eliminating all extra digital audio manipulation (room e.q. etc.) and you should find the timing results nearly equal to that of the analog trial you performed. I was going to suggest earlier today (when I first saw the thread) that you try what you've since reported, but I was too lazy to type it up. I don't do AV beyond sending the stereo output to my two-channel gear. Every additional (digital) manipulation takes additional time to perform. If none of your audio equipment can handle the necessary synchronization by feeding the video through it, and your TV can't do it either, then perhaps you can increase the amount of video signal manipulation the TV is doing. That should add delay to the imagery. Did your upgrade cash outlay include equipment selection / setup services or did you undertake the task without such assistance? That kind of cash, unless spent piecemeal at various sources on your own, would / should include guarantee of compatibility and initial (proper) setup, IMO.
  9. Luke Husqvarna vs. Stihl, or oak vs. hickory? Anyway, I thought I'd just throw that out there. I see little bundles of wood for several dollars each at the gas station. A few cords ought to net enough to buy some nice stereo gear! I've usually been fairly careful around loud things but even so, at bumping 60 years now I doubt I'd notice much detail above 15k.
  10. It might not be a fair call. I mean, everyone knows that as far as being "subjective" goes, it could take 30 hours of use for the filaments and whatnot to settle in after moving the equipment. Not to mention the time for interconnects and speaker wire to readjust, but that would be concurrent. Hahaha!
  11. An alternative plan would be to get a pre-EPA chainsaw, or drill out the muffler to let it breathe better, and cut up 10 or 12 cords of firewood without ear protection. That would be a great start to not missing anything above 15k.
  12. I never get so lucky with the layout. It seems invariably that the left speaker gets less side-wall reinforcement, and that's the side John Entwistle occupies...
  13. I'd think too small, but I don't know.
  14. In High School I'd got a pair of (rusty memory) L16s (8" / 1.5") and a couple years later 4301s. Same exact drivers and same exact high-pass crossover parts, though the cabinet dimensions differed and the pro model had 2nd-order crossover on the woofer. The "home" version ran the woofer sans crossover letting itself peter out at nominally the same 2500 Hz. It had a notable midrange "hump" the pro version "lacked." I'd at one time had the L16s at a friend's house for a "party" and the next day, while retrieving them, was standing there talking to his mom with one on my shoulder. It slipped backward and fell on the floor. The only damage was one of the plastic grille nipples broke off in its socket in the cabinet! Maybe a dent in the floor, I didn't check that out... I derided another (later) coworker's Heresys for the lack of bass... I've always held JBLs in the highest esteem. I cannot think of a reason why I decided about a year ago why I'd consider anything Klipsch, beyond better-controlled directivity for the nasty room I have to work with at this time. Rather glad I "jumped ship" now with my Forte IIIs! But I have to say, if I'd had to pay list (thank you Metropolis Lake Outfitters for a bangin' price on "B" stock [still can't determine why]) the current L100s would likely be singing now instead...
  15. Yeah? How are the grilles on those L100s?
  16. No offense intended, but no problem. Cut the cap leads 1/4" from the joint, bend them at half way back toward the joint, new leads get bent back towards the caps from there, interlocked, trim, fold and squeeze tight, solder. But then I'd most likely not have started the thread in the first place...
  17. Wire nuts? You can drop a huge blob of solder on the connections in less time if you've got a proper soldering gun! Tear it down for clean-looking replacements is something I'd do over a glass of whiskey if they sent the replacements first, with a postage-paid container for the returns. Otherwise, no, 10% in the future or not. But I'm happy everyone's happy with the results...
  18. I always get a chuckle out of seeing they picked "XConsole" as a name for their program, as if (obviously, I guess) they were unaware that's the name of an X (networked windows, for various Unix flavors) program from the '80s. I'm fairly certain I could still compile and run it.
  19. Should've known Mr. Bonehead wasn't really asking a question here, but rather making a point. Upon further testing, I noticed that lining up the tweeter with the horn diaphragm, while making a big improvement in sound, does cause reflections from the top of the cabinet that cause destructive interference at positions in front of the speaker. Further testing will show if there is a way to get the best of both worlds. I don't think padding or insulation will work. Maybe a structure of some sort... While I mentioned that in this thread before he did, I'm not claiming to posses as much knowledge / experience as he. That information should rightly be considered as so much "low-hanging fruit." Same for: Yes to this for sure. I feed my Xilica from a Presonus mixer. It is a balanced connection. The mixer is capable of putting out +24dBu. I still have the input channel gains up all the way (+15dB) on the Xilica. This gets the input meters to flicker occasionally but only at loud levels. ... If one doesn't make large use of the available bit-depth, they're really limiting themselves to the equivalent of lesser equipment. It'd be better to flirt with bouncing off the ceiling than playing mainly on the floor.
  20. This tangent should be okay now at this point in the thread: When measuring the ESR of "original" caps is it correct to assume a value higher than that of what can be found of various newly-made units is in fact telling us the originals are in need of replacement? In other words, just what was the original ESR value supposed to be?
  21. Dean, have you pondered the situation any further?
  22. Someone "on the line" didn't catch the misadjustment in a timely manner and they either didn't tell their immediate supervisor some (unknown quantity?) had too much glue, or they were told don't worry about it. It never got mentioned to anyone higher, or it actually did and the decision was taken to address the issue later if it ever came up. My prediction. If they were willing to send known-"proper" replacements beforehand, along with a pre-paid return shipping container, I'd take them up on it. It wouldn't hurt to request minor upgrade units, but I wouldn't hold my breath. If they want them back first I don't think I'd bother with it.
  23. But not so much difference at higher volumes? At any rate, could you imagine snipping the grilles above the center mount points and rolling the metal back 90 degrees across the top?
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