Tom Bird
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Posts posted by Tom Bird
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Hey Dean, I noticed it said it also replaces the k43 E. Any idea if it has the same power handling capabilities?Also available through Speaker Exchange.
https://reconingspeakers.com/products-page/klipsch-k-33-e-woofer-121501/
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I guess you are all set.Looking for a replacement. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I have a cf2 that I modified the cabinet to make a center Channel. Basically it is now a large C7. It is just sitting at the moment where are you locatedLooking for a replacement. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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What about the kp281? Is their much of a difference? Same speaker kp2002 cVery close....
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So after watching the video I'm assuming he's stiffening the spider and remolding the rubber by stiffening it in the upper position . Mine is lopsided but I'm assuming if this process works it would fix that as well. The other thing is my woofer has paper edges and not rubber. Would it still work?Tom , based on your picture , you have what is called spider sag , the woofer suspension is affected after decades of operation ,
rotating the woofer does not correct the problem , but this method will work .
here' s video , very simple,..... it shows how to correct the issue , maybe not 100% but 80% should be possible
,
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Spider moves up and down along with the cone is not loose whatsoever but is also sagging in same direction as the wooferok , let's do this , take the woofer you have , move the cone up and down , but at the same time , look at the spider , does the spider stay level or does it drop lower along with the cone when you move the cone up and down .
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I have had a driver where the magnet was off centered. I do believe I have a picture somewhere.At least we don’t get magnet slide…..
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I posted a piccan you please post pictures , this would help us , see and understand what woofer sag is .......Tx
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Missing pic left low and rightbside high.
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Only woofer sag I have experienced is on k22 Heresy 1 and k28 kp2002.-c2.
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Thanks. I will check them in the morning
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Was going to look for electrolytic so it stays the same type but not sure if this would change anything.
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I did think about that but wasn't sure if you could do that with the electrolytic. Now just to find a 50 and a 47 that match. LOLKind of big for the PCB, and maybe better to stick with something closer to the stock part. You can parallel a 50 and a 47 electrolytic. The 100 is out of stock. A lot of stuff is out of stock right now. I waited months and months for Erse to get their act together and finally gave up.
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I don't have the knowlage to make that change RE: what or if it would change anything. I can solder no problem. Thanks for your input
I'm sure 100uf would be just fine probably what I'd go with:
https://www.parts-express.com/electronic-parts/capacitors/metalized-polypropylene-crossover-capacitors/capacitance/100-uF
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I have had these klf30's for years. It was my first dip outside the RP line and is what really started me on the journey so I would like to bring them back to OEM spec. I as soon as I picked these up I purchase Crites crossovers and Titanium diaphragms from Bob. The new crossovers made a bigger difference than the diaphragms but installed them as well. I still have the original Mylar. I do believe I can get the caps but the woofer 97 uf is the one I'm having the hardest time with. Any suggestions?
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I felt it increased the bass output (not lower) is enough so it sounds like a better overall speaker. JMOSounds like I need some K28’s and to put my crossovers back to stock.
Currently the crossovers in my H1’s are set to do the opposite, dropping the mid and tweeter by 3dB to not overpower the woofer.
I think I only thought it was necessary because I have the Heresy’s up on some stands.
When they were loaded in the corner it was a bit different.
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When I did it I used the pre out of the AVR to an amplifier and ran both speakers in monoHow are you adding a second center to the AVR?
There is only one input.
can I add a second center? If so how?
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Thank you for the infoK-52 was used in both the Cornwall and Heresy. I’m pretty sure you are good to go with any of those woofers, with the Type E network. I would just go with K-28 in all four.
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Thanks Dean, I have the k28's with the E network on 1 pair and loved the 2-3 DB gain on the woofer. I think it makes it a better speaker. I want to do the same thing with the other pair that is the E-2. Are you telling me to change the E-2 back to an E? Sorry for my confusion but I thought the E2 was because of the k52 instead of the k55 but I truly do not know. Thanks
K-52 is cheating, but I would just set them up the same as the first set. Use K-28 with Type E.
You don’t have to halve the value of the coils. It’s 4 ohm “nominal”. What matters most is the impedance at the crossover point.
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I remember their is a process but forgot what it was.
Looking to see what network adjustment needs to be done for the E network (k22 to K28, K55v & K77M. Also have another pair that had an E-2 network but had a K22(bad) and a K24. Network had inductors 4 Ma and a 2.5 Ma. Because of the bad woofer I would also like to change them to the K28, k52 & k77 round mag. Thank you for any info
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Looking to see what network adjustment needs to be done for the E network (k22 to K28, K55v & K77M. Also have another pair that had an E-2 network but had a K22(bad) and a K24. Network had inductors 4 Ma and a 2.5 Ma. Because of the bad woofer I would also like to change them to the K28, k52 & k77 round mag. Thank you for any info
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I have had many matching LCR. Heresy's, Klf's Chorus, Cornwalls and now LaScala (industrials). Old and Chorus all 7 and Cornwalls and LaScala I have 5 with various fill in. Loved them all. I truly believe their is no better front LCR that are matching.
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Possibly but you would have to pay the charges. The other thing is if you're buying one you might want to consider going with the k28 so you have a matching pair. The shipping can't be cheap
You willing to ship to New Zealand?
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I have a k24 available.Recently acquired some lovely Heresy IIs. Everything was well and good until I got a Quad Power Amp, and I think I may have pumped too much into them, consequently blowing the woofer and midrange driver on one of the speakers, the other is fine.
I'm here to ask you fine folks what the best course of action is next? I live in NZ so things are a little hard to come by. So far I've reached out to a few companies, but most don't seem willing to touch it.
Is it best if I just buy a secondhand k-24-k when it comes up for sale online?
In regards to the midrange driver it seems my best bet is to buy a diaphragm replacement from simplyspeakers.. correct me if I'm wrong.
Thanks for your help in advance.
Ps. They're the best speakers I've ever had the pleasure of listen to. I'm a Klipsch man for life.
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Suitable substitute for K-33 in LaScala?
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
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